Unlocking the Mysteries of Automotive Diagnostics

Unlocking the Mysteries of Automotive Diagnostics

In the intricate world of modern automotive technology, the ability to diagnose and troubleshoot issues has become an indispensable skill for both mechanics and car enthusiasts. One of the key frameworks governing this diagnostic landscape is the Onboard Diagnostics (OBD) system, specifically the second iteration, OBD-II, which adheres to the standards set by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE).

SAE and OBD-II Standards:

The SAE plays a crucial role in establishing standards that govern automotive diagnostics. In the context of the VW Polo and many other vehicles, OBD-II is the standardized system designed to monitor and report the performance of various vehicle systems, ensuring compliance with emission regulations.

Stoichiometry and Emission Control:

Understanding stoichiometry is fundamental to comprehending OBD-II's role in emission control. Stoichiometry refers to the chemically balanced ratio of air to fuel necessary for complete combustion. OBD-II monitors this ratio through sensors, with the Oxygen Sensor System (OXS) playing a pivotal role in providing feedback to the engine control module (ECM).

EPC Light - Electronic Power Control:

One of the telltale indicators of an issue within the electronic realm of the VW Polo is the Electronic Power Control (EPC) light. This warning light illuminates when the system detects a fault affecting the engine's performance. The EPC system is responsible for managing the throttle, ensuring optimal power delivery and efficiency.

Check Engine Light and DTC Codes:

The infamous Check Engine Light (CEL) is another beacon of concern for drivers. When illuminated, it signals potential issues with the engine or emissions system. Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC), communicated through the OBD-II system, provide mechanics with specific information about the nature of the problem, allowing for a targeted and efficient diagnosis.

Limp Mode and Safety Features:

In the event of a critical issue, the VW Polo employs a safety feature known as Limp Mode. This mode restricts the vehicle's performance to prevent further damage, allowing the driver to reach a service center safely. Understanding the triggers for Limp Mode requires decoding the specific DTCs stored in the OBD-II system.

Sensors, Senders, and Actuators:

Central to the OBD-II system are an array of sensors and senders strategically placed throughout the vehicle. These components, such as the Oxygen Sensor, monitor various parameters and relay information to the ECM. Actuators, controlled by the ECM, respond to these inputs by adjusting engine functions to maintain optimal performance and emissions.

16-Pin OBD-II Connector:

Mechanics rely on the 16-pin OBD-II connector to interface with the vehicle's diagnostic system. This standardized connector provides access to the wealth of information stored within the OBD-II system, facilitating precise diagnosis and troubleshooting.

Automotive Acronyms:

Navigating the world of automotive diagnostics often involves deciphering a myriad of acronyms. From EPC to DTC,to HVAC, to OXS, to EGR and beyond, mechanics adeptly use these shorthand terms to  efficiently communicate and clients and pinpoint issues with precision.However, it can confuse the hell out of them.

Delving into the realm of automotive diagnostics for the VW Polo unveils a sophisticated interplay of technologies governed by SAE standards and OBD-II protocols. Mastery of these systems empowers mechanics to unravel complexities, ensuring optimal performance and emission control for vehicles on the road. 

As technology continues to advance, a deep understanding of automotive acronyms and diagnostic intricacies remains paramount for those entrusted with keeping our vehicles running smoothly. However, it would be feasible even advisable for vehicle owners to get get up to speed with Automotive technology. Technology is here to stay and no matter how hard we try, cannot will it away.

Common OBD-II Problems

OBD-II has now been in our faces for a "Quarter Century" and even though it works fairly efficiently to control the hydro-carbon emissions in post '96 vehicles to some degree, it isn't as effective as some people would've liked, in terms of its diagnostic accuracy or as transparent and simplistic in its use to aid the layman.  On the flip side, many people with several mechanics among them completely abhors OBD-II and sees it more as a hindrance that a help and even add that they prefer cars not to have OBD-II. Since its inception, OBD-II has stymied mechanics globally, especially when the OBD-II system shuts down the engine and turns on the  EPC Light or Check Engine Light. And today, some 25 years later most car owners and mechanics still suffer fits effects yet endure the wrath of OBD-II. However, regardless of what we as lay people say, OBD-II is here to stay and we cannot wish it or will it away. 

Genuine Volkswagen / Audi Harness Mfg Part #: 1KD971658

Personally I think OBD-II is a great in all aspects and incarnations however it has its drawbacks. OBD-II  does place car owners at a huge disadvantage and at risk when it fails. Purely because the problems are not evident but rather masked by the mysteries of electronics technology. This very often leaves them stranded and in a dangerous situations when stuck in the middle of nowhere. With the result that even the DIY car owners cannot do any repair work themselves, but have to resort to phoning  a salvage company to come  load their vehicle onto  a rollback.  Unless of course they have previously invested in a OBD-II scanner  and is able to check for DTC error codes.  But as the saying goes, "most people only lock the stable after the horse has bolted". 

Another drawback of OBD-II is that since car owners in general do not own diagnostic scanners; so they have to rely on some mechanic workshop or mechanical to tell them what problems they've encountered with their vehicle but only once its repaired. Considering most mechanics / repair shops repair OBD-II errors by substituting parts until the cause of the problem is  solved. Merely because they don't even understand the workings of OBD-II well enough to pinpoint problems with any great success. For most of us, this type of hit-&-miss approach comes as an un-bugeted expense, which most car owners can ill-afford especially after having to pay the exorbitant rollback cost.

I believe there are thousands more vehicle owners today, interested in their own vehicle's maintenance and there are even more inclined towards DIY repairs than ever before because of ODB-II. Their motivating factor being the high cost of automotive repairs vs the low cost of ODB-II diagnostic scanners. Albeit that the lower cost scanners bordering on cheap doesn't do such a fantastic diagnostic scan as their more expensive counter parts. 

NEW GENERATION CARS

Hopefully, the next generation of automobiles will be released with onboard diagnostic scanners incorporated directly into the vehicle's infotainment system. Seeing that these fancy units are comprised of  several discrete devices built into the same platform.  It's quite common for the average touch screen infotainment systems to have features ranging from  Built-in Bluetooth to Built-in WIFI which supports WiFi hot-spot broadcasting. Integrated phone connectivity for calls. Some even have rear view camera support. 

Others have fully fledged full-format 1080P video decoding, and USB functionality with multi-format audio and multi-band radio, coupled to dedicated dual voice-coil subwoofer and surround sound speakers. Not to mention Internet APP download capability.  Some include mirror and link for both Android and IOS Phones and a Global Positioning System (GPS) for navigation. All thanks to the magic of powerful multi-core processors and microprocessor embedded systems. 

I'd say adding an OBD-II scanner in place of one of these gadgets would be more beneficial 

So, throwing in a pretty decent quality OBD-II scanner into such a menagerie of tech wouldn't be such a biggie for car manufacturers and the cost wouldn't be prohibitively expensive either.  But since we not at that point in automotive evolution as yet, most DIY car owners have to rely on the handheld / smartphone diagnostics to scan their cars. 

Be that as it may. Very fortunately there are some common fault lists that would prevent you from having to go buy an expensive OBD-II scanner or go through the agony and trauma of having your car fixed by trial and error. Sharing  common automotive problems for the benefit of other, who are bound to experience the exact same problems in the very near future is a godsend.  Same model cars tend to have the same problems as others but invariable and inevitably those components will fail because obsolescence was part of its initial design. The same components used different model cars tend to fail in the same way and cause the same problems.

We've found that the most common OBD-II problems are associated with misfiring engine cylinders, problematic exhaust Gate Reticulation system (EGR), Oxygen Sensor (O2), Electrical Harnesses and fault Catalytic Converters. Many car owners are decating their diesel models, claiming better performance. But since OBD-II was explicitly introduced to control and reduce carbon emissions, removing it is not such a great idea. 

VW / Audi Harness ES#: ES2993475  

 

COMMON FAULTS 

Erratically idling, or misfiring of bucking or  car goes into limp mode or starts and cuts out all result any one or more of the following error codes:-

P0105 - Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure Voltage supply

P0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure out of range 

P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure Low Input

P0108 - Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure High Input

P0234 - Turbocharger Overboost Condition Control limit exceeded

P0235 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) Control circuit  limit not reached

P0236 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) circuit  out of range

P0237 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) circuit  Low Input

P0238 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) circuit  High Input

P0243 - Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid (A) Open/Short Circuit to Ground

P0245 - Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid (A) Low Input/Short to ground

P0246 - Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid (A) High Input/Short to B+

P1154 - Manifold Switch Over Malfunction

P1155 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Short to B+

P1156 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Open/Short to Ground

P1157 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Power Supply Malfunction

P1158 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit  out of range

P1400 - EGR Valve Circuit  Electrical Malfunction

P1401 - EGR Valve Circuit  Short to Ground

P1402 - EGR Valve Circuit  Short to B+

P1403 - EGR Flow Deviation

P1404 - EGR Flow Basic Setting not carried out

P1406 - EGR Temperature Sensor Performance range

P1407 - EGR Temperature Sensor Signal too Low

P1408 - EGR Temperature Sensor Signal too High

P1511 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve - Electrical circuit malfunction

P1512 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve Short circuit to B+

P1513 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve2 Short circuit to B+

P1514 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve2 Short circuit to ground

P1515 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve Short circuit to ground

P1516 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve - Open circuit 

P1520 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve2 - Open circuit 

P1521 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve2 electrical circuit malfunction

P1553 - Barometric/manifold pressure signal ratio out of range

Polo Highline 1.9 TDI (9N) 2005

16621 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too Low

P0237 - 000 - -

Audi A5 (8T0) 2012 

4166 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31)

P0238 00 [039] - Signal too High

Audi TT 1.8L R4/5VT 

16622 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High

0238 - 35-00 - 

000568 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High

P0238 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - MIL ON

Passat 2.0T R4/4V TFSI 2006 

000568 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High

P0238 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - MIL ON

VW Touran 1.9 TDI

P0236 - Manifold Pressure/Boost Sensor (G31) - Range/Performance Problem/Implausible Signal

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)(K83) active.

VW Golf 7 1.6TDI 

16622 (P0238 ) - Manifold Pressure/Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High

16618 (P0234) - Boost Pressure Regulation: Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition)

Passat 2.0T R4/4V TFSI 2006 

004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve

P1297 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded

This MAP Manifold Pressure Sensor aka Boost Sensor aka Thrust sensor  aka G31 is just a  thermistor. Essentially a resistor of a special kind, with the ability to change its resistance  subject to its surrounding temperature, hence the term thermistor is just a  word combination of "thermal" and "resistor".  However G31 sensor may not be fault but rather the wiring harness. Due to the constant engine heat, the harness wiring gets hard and becomes brittle resulting in poor contact, short and open circuits. 

FYI - Thermistors essentially come in two varieties, viz NTC (negative temperature coefficient) and a PTC (positive temperature coefficient). You can quite simply use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance of the thermistor. Then by bringing a hot soldering iron  tip close to the thermistor, its resistance would change in response to the soldering iron's radiated heat. When the resistance increases its a PTC and an NTC when the resistance decreases.  Much like discrete component resistors that are colour coded, thermistors leads are also colour coded which identifies the temperature range they operate at.

CATALYTIC CONVERTER

Catalytic Converter have become a hot topic of late. Thieves are stealing Catalytic converters from parked cars at night. However the Polo Highline 1.9 TDI is known to be troublesome. The main reason for  this being, use of poor quality diesel (500ppm as opposed to 50ppm or even 5ppm) and irregular oil changes  which caused soot build-up to block the performance of the catalytic converter, which in turn may lead to turbo failure.  So its fair to say that it's  not uncommon to remove/replace blocked catalytic converters  to prolong the life of the turbo itself.

However if it's not the Catalytic converter itself causing the above error,  it very possibly not the sensor either even though the diagnostic software may indicate that.  I'd say rather check, repair or replace the wiring harness to the Boost Pressure Sensor (G31) and also check wiring to the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (G42).  See my previous blog post https://volkswagen-polo-highline.blogspot.com/2015/03/wiring-harness-issues.html 

The diagnostic scanners may also thow the following errors in conjunction with the error above,  which could be caused by a leak in Air Intake and or Exhaust

16490 - Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor (G71) / (F96): Implausible Signal

P0106 - 35-00 - -

18000 - Altitude Sensor / Boost Pressure Sensor: Implausible Correlation

P1592 - 000 - -

Diesel engines are quite different from petrol engines in the sense that  the diesel engine is not variable in speed or power by controlling the air entering the engine as we do with the  throttle body in petrol styled engines. Feedback from Catalytic converter in petrol engines are also used to adjust the short term and long term fuel trim. Implying that petrol cars also have turbo boost errors due to the cat and intake and exhaust sensors.

16485 / P0101 Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) (G70) = Circuit Signal Implausible (out of range)

16497 / P0113 Intake Air Temperature  Sensor-1 (G42) = Signal too High

16515 / P0131 O2 (Lambda) sensor low voltage =  Bank-1 Low Voltage

16584 / P0200 Injector circuit =   Injector Circuit electrical fault

16620 / P0236 Turbo / Manifold Pressure Boost Sensor (G31) = Signal Implausible (out of range)

16622 / P0238 Turbo / Manifold Pressure Boost Sensor (G31) = Signal too High

16683 / P0299 Turbo Boost Pressure Reg = Control Range not reached (underboost) /mechanical fault

16785 / P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) = Insufficient Flow (blocked)

17055 / P0671  Glow Plug/Heater Cylinder 1 (Q10)  electrical fault, open circuit 

17958 / P1550 code = Charge Pressure Control Deviation

Check for air leaks on both intake or exhaust side 

Turbocharger - check for whining engine and exhaust smoke

Charge Air Pressure Sensor faulty  - check connection to one of the the intercooler pipes

Wastegate Regulator N75 Valve  faulty  - Check one of the 3 thin hoses for leaks

18534 / P2102 Throttle  Actuator Control Motor = Signal too Low, check voltage to accelerator pedal 

18675 / P2243 O2  Sensor Reference Voltage Bank 1, open circuit 

___________________________________________________________________

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Check Engine Light

Check Engine Light - aka MIL

Yesterday morning when I started my VW Polo highline she idled a bit rough but I never gave it another thought because it had been raining hard throughout the night with harsh howling winds accompanied by a  lightning storm. I summized it could have been caused by the moisture in the air but when I looked at the dashboard, I saw that the orange / amber Check Engine Light was on. I tried accelerating and looked at the CEL but it stayed on. Surprisingly the engine seemed sluggish and didn't revv as per normal. Looking through the rear view mirror, I could see a distinct amount of smoke spiraling behind the car.  This was worrying because the previous day,  the car drove perfectly normal and when I parked her, she idled just fine. 

The problem with the  Check Engine light, other that being on, is that it doesn't tell you anything about the nature of the problem nor whether it's  serious or not. All I knew is that something was wrong with my emission control system because of the excessive  smoke.   The Check Engine light is actually better known as the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) so in essence there was a malfunction detected by the ECU and there was no way to tell what it could be without plugging in my scan tool. So off I went and  fetched my laptop and my VCDS cable, plugged it into the under dash DLC connector and ran a scan and found 4 Faults - P1137, P1103, P1187, and a P0441.

CODE ERRORS

17545 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add)
P1137 - 002 - System too Rich - MIL ON

Considering the first error code describes the fuel system as to rich, by implication then there is too little air for proper combustion. So I popped the bonnet to check the MAF, and saw a whole load of leaves and pine nettles strewn all over the engine compartment and a hand full of them stuck to the inlet of the air filter, blocking the air flow. I then open the air filter, removed the leaves and nettles and all those that got sucked into the air filter housing when I initially started the car.

17595 - Linear O2 Sensor; Compensation Resistor: Open Circuit
P1187 -- 35-10 - - - Intermittent

The second error directed me to the O2 sensor because the ECU describes it as  "Open Circuit".  Stooping over the engine, my eye followed the exhaust pipe, from the manifold branch past the firewall and saw a pine tree branch under the car, so I kneeled down to pulled it out but is was stuck. The tree branch was right below the  Catalytic converter.  I then went inside to fetch a garden pruning scissors so that I could cut off the protruding twigs and free the branch. Just as I was cutting I saw a wire hanging from down from the Cat. It was the wire from the O2 sensor that broke off and I supposed this happened with the force of the wind blowing the branch under my Polo.

The road and my driveway was littered with pine comes and nettles that the wind blew from the park more than a 100 meters away.  Anyway, I striped of the O2 sensor wires which was screened and reconnected them with an electrical block connector. You know the ones were you have to push the wires into a brass ferrule from either end and screw it down with the two screws. That just worked perfectly.

17511 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1: Performance too Low
P1103 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

The third error also directed me to the O2 sensor that wasn't heating up. I suppose it's linked to the disconnected wire and I assume the ECU prevented this because it realized the O2 sensor was OC. 

16825 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Incorrect Flow
P0441 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

The fourth error I couldn't make sense of  though I've seen this error when the fuel tank cap wasn't properly closed. So I went to the the tank, took off the cap and inspected the rubber seal. But it all seemed fine, so I closed it. I them cleared the diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) stored in the engine control module and started and re-scanned the ECU for errors and it came back with "No fault code found ". I then started my Polo and all was well. She revved as before and the Check Engine light was off.


The Check Engine light has always been a major annoyance to both motorists and mechanics,  and as a consequence is often ignored. I even know of someone  who stuck a piece of black insulation tape over the orange / amber  Check Engine light to blot it out, rather than fix the problem. Be that as it may,  ignoring the Check Engine light could lead to expensive car trouble later, so it's important to promptly address problems indicated by it.

DIY mechanics should buy and inexpensive scan tool / DTC code reader  since they are all standardized to plug into the 16 pin DLC under the dashboard. It would empower them to  discuss the problem with their mechanic if they can't manage to solve it themselves. When Check Engine light comes on, it is more likely than not that your car car is releasing unburnt gasoline (hydrocarbons) and carbon monoxide  into the atmosphere and consume a lot more fuel than it actually should.  

The OBDII system was primarily designed to monitor the emission control system continuously so it can be said hat if you car passes "readiness" its a good indication that your car  engine is in good health.  

Some problems that can illuminate the Check engine Light.

A clogged air filter can trigger the Check Engine light.
A loose gas cap can trigger the Check Engine light.
A fault O2 sensor can trigger the Check Engine light.
A Mass air flow sensor problem can trigger the Check Engine light.
Perished Spark plug wires can trigger the Check Engine light.
A blown  Catalytic converter can trigger the Check Engine light.
Low oil pressure or overheating can trigger the Check Engine light.
Sporadic engine misfiring can trigger the Check Engine light.

  

SEAT CHECK ENGINE LIGHT PROBLEMS

SEAT COMMON PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS  

The supermini SEAT Cordoba based on the Seat Ibiza Mk2, has been around since 1993. When the Volkswagen AG took over production from the Spanish auto maker, it was  replaced by the Ibiza ST /  Seat Vario built on the same platform as the Mk4 VW Polo and the Skoda Fabia. They are available in coupe, saloon and estate in 1.2, 1.4,  1.6, 1.8 and 2.0L petrol and 1.9L diesel engines with either a 5-speed manual or 6-speed tiptronic gearbox, and were in production until 2009. These cars  were  renown  for their good performance, handling and its safety features, but like all cars, they tend to develop common problems after a few years. Pero es un buen coche para comenzar en Mexico y España.

The most common of all engine problems was engine misfiring and in the process turning on the Seat check engine light, or the Seat Ibiza engine warning light, or  Seat Altea engine warning light, or the Seat Leon engine warning light, or Seat Arosa engine warning light, or Seat Leon TDI engine warning light, or Seat Cordoba  engine warning light. The most likely cause of this problem was the coil pack or the spark plug leads which needs replacement. A telltale sign was excessive  shaking when idling. This was very prevalent when coming to a stop street or traffic light or when starting first thing in the morning. Unlike cars of yesteryear  that had a single coil and a distributor that supplied a spark to the upcoming spark plug; these cars have its own coil pack for each cylinder. More coils packs  just increased the amount of things that could go wrong, and do they go wrong.

Another common problem with the Mk4 was a lack of power which also turns on the Seat Ibiza engine diagnosis warning light or Seat Cordoba engine warning light.  The cause of the problem in most cases is  the MAF (mass air flow) sensor. A telltale sign is a lack of power at high speeds and or just  poor overall acceleration. It is always worthwhile to try and clean it with compressed air but if this didn't solve the problem, replacement is the only option.  Once repaired,  one would feel an immediate improvement on performance. 

Many Seat Cordoba window wipers also just suddenly stops working which sometimes turned out to be the wiper linkage that seized and sometimes turns out to be the wiper motor and sometimes both. Then there is the ever creaking noise sometimes sounding like an exhaust rattle coming from the front suspension when driving over speed bumps or rough surfaces. This turned out to be the anti roll bar bushes which after replacement solved the problem. A problem that plagued the automatic models is the ever noticeable red oil mark on the ground underneath the car. The origin of the leak is either gearbox seal leaking or the selector shaft seal that is leaking. Seal replacement normally stops the leak. Failure to address this problem ends up with the gear lever stuck in park with the PRDN light glowing right red on the dashboard. The gearbox  grinds when attempting to put the car into drive but will kick in with an huge thud.

Then there is the breaking distance problem on certain models (Ibiza, Toledo, Cordoba, Leon, Vario and Inca) fitted with ABS, needing a lot more force to be applied to the brake pedal to get the car to stop. The cause of the problem turned out to be tension cracks that develop in the vacuum pipe going to the brake servo near to the connections area. This is in fact a manufacturing fault that can be replaced under recall free of charge. After replacement of the vacuum pipes breaking was back to normal.

Ibiza, Altea Toledo, Leon Toloedo, Cordoba  and Alhambra vehicles fitted with a 3 and 4 cylinder pump injector engine with 2 valves per injector is prone to the bolts on the tandem pump cover that breaking off.  This was also a manufacturer  fault and vehicles were recalled to have the pump checked that was supplied by a certain manufacture.

Seat Ibiza and Seat Toledo and Seat Leon with VINs ranging from VSSZZZ1MZ1B036908 to VSSZZZ1Mz1B044227 seem to have a problem with head airbag unit which would fail to activate under certain collision conditions. Seat Altes,Toledo and Leon with 2 L TDI engine and  6 speed manual VIN ranging from VSSZZZ5PZ4R000048 to VSSZZZ5PZ4R017390 and VSSZZZ5PZ5R000026 to VSSZZZ5PZ5R103620 and VSSZZZ5PZ6R000009 to VSSZZZ5PZ6R001638  have flywheel problems that was also recalled for replacement.

The Seat Cordoba 1.9 TDI also developed starting problem when not driven for a day or two. But will eventually start after several attempts, idling very rough and smoking. In some cases it just drained the battery as well. But once she started it will start every time thereafter until left to stand for a day or two again.  This was caused by the diesel pipes sucking in air causing the diesel to flow pack towards the tank. The cause was a leaking diesel filter. A very annoying problem with some Mk4 is the drafts that comes in through door seals. It seemed that these rubber seals tend to collapsed after 5 years. Another thing is the coolant sensors / temperature sensors are generally of a very poor quality on all VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda group cars. They just tend to go faulty all the time. Surprisingly most of these problems are also prevalent in VW Polo range, after all SEAT is just another Mk4 VW Polo that has been badge engineered.

TRANSMISSION LIMP MODE

TRANSMISSION LIMP MODE 

During the late 1970's to the early 1980s, the on-board computer made its first appearance, responsible for monitoring and controlling the vehicle's engine. It started out with better fuel economy in mind,  followed by a  electronic capacitive discharge ignition systems (CDI), then electronic points and engine timing were introduced. Soon thereafter it encompassed anti-lock braking (ABS), airbags (SRS), climate control (HVAC), electronic stability control (ESP) and emissions control among several others. Today, virtually every subsystem in your vehicle is controlled by a computer  interfaced with sensors of sorts – including the automatic transmission’s shift timing sequence and line pressure.   The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor and throttle position sensor (TPS), among several other, supplies the engine’s load signals and information which is used by the  Engine Control Unit (ECU) to inform the Transmission Control Unit (TCU) when to manage gear up-shift and down-shift, especially when you’re driving up an incline or inclined toward spirited driving. Since there is so much electronics, there is so much more that can go wrong,  so a  "fail safe" system had to be employed as a safety feature just in case of signal errors  that occur  outside of its expected range.  A feature that would protect the engine / transmission from "runaway" that could cause it to self destruct. 

There is even an Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) valve safety circuit, integrated directly in the transmission hydraulic circuit of all VAG vehicles. When necessary, a part of the gearbox is depressurised to prevent any transmission clutches from closing uncontrolled due to  excessive clutch pressure. This is feature is called the "Emergency Program" aka "Limp Mode"  or "Limp Mode Home".

When your Audi, Volkswagen, Seat or Skoda's  EPC light,  and or the Check engine light,  and or DPF (Diesel Particulate filter) light turns on, your car is likely to go into limp mode, if  it hasn't  already entered into Limp mode. Other than the illuminated light or lights in the instrument panel, and an engine that will not rev more than 2000 revs, neither exceed 30 kph, it gives you absolutely no explanation why it happened.  To make matters worse, there is no definitive list of what causes this elusive limp mode but I have tabulated some of them from personal experience. 

How to fix limp home mode

• Throttle Pedal Sensors (TPS), G79/G185
• Throttle body Position sensors, G187/G188 
• Throttle Valve Control Module, J338
• Engine Component Power Supply Relay, J757
• Intermittent Ignition Coils, N, N128, N158, N163
• Fuel Injectors N30, N31, N32, N33
• Transmission Control Module J217
• Waste-gate Actuator Valve, N75
• Knock Sensor, G61 
• Fuel pressure sensor G247 
• Fuel pressure regulator valve, N276 
• Automatic transmission electronic pressure control (EPC )   solenoid / stuck solenoids
• Transmission solenoid harness

Volkswagen Automatic Transmission Solenoid and Harness kit.

The only way to repair an EPC fault (Limp Mode) or for that matter any fault on any VAG vehicle, is to do a DLC scan to pull the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) to at least point you in the right direction. One of the most miserable Limp mode experiences ever is a Transmission Limp Mode. They range from a transmission that is low on fluid, to stuck in 2nd gear, to jumping out of gear, to noisy gears selection. But the worst is when  engine antifreeze water from the radiator enters through the corroded ATF cooler lines into the transmission, also allowing the ATF to leak  into the engine coolant, radiator and engine. 

Knowing the Germans, their just had to be a oil cooler for the automatic gearbox integrated somewhere into the radiator. Even though VW claim that ATF is a lifetime fluid", it is only a matter of time before it mixes with antifreeze and water. Anyway, this happens to  the all-in-one radiators  of Volkswagen Jettas, VW Golf 4, Passat B6, Audi A4 Quattro  and I suspect other VAG vehicle which I havn't personally experienced. It also happens to the Mercedes Benz C250, but it's  not an exclusive German car design flaw. It s also prevalent in the Nissan Pathfinder, Fords and Pontiac as well as several Asian vehicles.

Once the oil cooler lines spring a leak inside the plastic radiator, it messes-up the entire system by mixing the anti freeze water mixture with ATF. Yet with all the vehicle on-board electronics there is no visible sign that this cross flow happened nor any electronic detection or indication. Since oil is less dense than water, the gears in the transmission runs in water which causes the  metal gears to rust besides taking  the facings off the clutch plates. Beside the water shorts out the printed circuit board driving the solenoids on the valve body. This type of extensive damage can result in a very expensive transmission replacement if it isn't detected before the damage is done. 

Volkswagen  valve body

An easy way to identify this problem, is to check the ATF dipstick level often, which needs to be between the two notches marking min and max. Much more than that can indicate ATF floating on water. Also verify that the colour of the ATF is translucent red and not brown or black. Bi-annual ATF replacement, though expensive should almost guarantee a trouble free transmission. The logic behind an all-in-one radiator ATF cooler is to heat-up the ATF with the hot radiator water during cold conditions because oil tends to become thick and gel when very cold.  But is may be in your interest to replace your all-in-one ATF cooler with a separate / free standing oil cooler as used in the new cars if you live in a country where it never snows or never experience freezing cold weather.

Universal Aluminum  after market Automotive 13-Roll Transmission Oil Cooler

EPC Q & A REVISTITED

EPC Q & A REVISTITED

Of late, Vag vehicle owners are experiencing Electronic Power Control problems more frequently than ever before yet most VW, Audi, Skoda and Seat still have no idea what an EPC fault is and what causes the EPC light to turn on. To add insult to injury some VW, Audi, Skoda and Seat service agents tend to "repair" these faults by trial and error, costing the vehicle owners exorbitant amounts of money only to later discover that the fault persists. The EPC warning light can be found in selected models in virtually all makes of cars and is not limited to just Volkswagen Audi, Skoda and Seat vehicles. Volkswagen Audi, Skoda and Seat use Electronic Power Control in their drive by wire vehicles as a safety feature which in my opinion isn't all that safe. Case in point, I have had my VW Polo go into limp mode whilst overtaking a car in a two way street.  It stalled at the very moment when I was cutting-in in front of the said car, causing its driver to frantically brake and swerve to avoid colliding with the rear of my car because  suddenly I wasn't accelerating any longer. Not to mention the on-coming car, which swerved toward the shoulder of the road since my car was straddling the white line. My EPC problem turned out to be the incorrect octane fuel.

Be that as it may, by the time the EPC light illuminates in the dashboard, in response to some sensor detecting a problem, the problem already occurred in either the torque control, traction control, throttle body and sensors, accelerator pedal sensors, cruise control,  fuel supply or ignition systems. Essentially the epc light is just a way to tell you that there is a problem with the drive by wire system and generally remain on until the fault is cleared.  At the instant that the EPC light illuminates, the  ECU flags a DTC which is then stored in the relevant electronic control module. This DTC gives a fair idea of the suspect system but cannot pinpoint  the culprit component. 

QUESTION?

Anonymous says:- Hey I have a 06 Passat 2.0t and I am reading all of these stories on the EPC my check engine light was already on while I was driving but the car was good. I was on my way to work after stopping at the gas station and my EPC light came on and my car stalled on the highway and has not came back on. The lights windows and everything works but when I try to turn the car on it attempts to turn but never does. 

ANSWER!

From your description I understand that after your EPC light came on, your car won't restart. So you checked the light and windows which tells me you suspected that the battery may have run down and perhaps not strong enough to turn the engine over.  But you also mentioning 'check engine light'. A combination of check engine light and EPC light is emissions related and if your car's emissions exceed a predetermined level, the ECU will prevent the engine from starting. Its best that you have your car scanned to see what DTC it threw out. 

QUESTION?

Musa Brain says:- Hi there. I have a VW polo vivo I have the EPC light on when I'm driving slowly and also when I'm reaching a stop sign and hit the clutch pedal it turns off and when I start it in the morning it turns off so I have to rev it for it to idle but after some few minutes the EPC light comes on. Please help?

ANSWER!

Musa your description of your EPC problem seems that you car doesn't idle fast enough. I assume that its drives normal whiles on a higher rev. It quite evident that it switches off when you come to a halt and whilst it's cold. I suspect that you have a blocked air filter problem that doesn't allow sufficient air to the MAF, but I could be wrong since you provide no DTC's. It could also be a blocked fuel filter that starves stichiometricity since torque is determined by both  air and fuel. 

QUESTION?

Bogdan Iova says:- When I swich key on the EPC light not apear and teh engine not start. Golf 1.6 16V 

ANSWER!

Bogdan, you really haven't given me much to work with here, but off hand it seems that you may have a blown fuse that powers the instrument cluster. Because the moment you turn on the ignition key, the OBD II system does a self  diagnosis by turning on all the dash board lights for about 10 seconds whilst running the test.  It then turns off  those light related to the circuits that function normally and leaves those lights on, for circuits that fail the test.  So, if you EPC light does come on when you turn on the ignition , then goes off,  you don't have an EPC problem.   However if your engine won't start it's obviously cause by something else. It could be that your battery has reached end of life. If the engine doesn't turn over, even the starter could have packed-up. But if it does crank and won't start, check your fuel gauge to at least determine that you have fuel in the tank.  Related to this could be your ECM Power Relay, your fuel pump relay or the fuel pump itself. Without more info, this is about all I can help you with. DTC codes would have been helpful.

QUESTION?

Anonymous says:- Hi there, I have a 2003 polo 1.6, EPC light is on and when it's idling can't rev it, checked and cleaned the throttle body and still same issue, ran a diagnostics check and it says something about the pedal, please help?  

ANSWER!

Hi Anonymous, you seem to have a classic EPC problem but for the benefit of everyone else, it would have been great to share the DTC codes that you recovered. I suspect it must have been one of the following codes since you mention the error code said something about the accelerator pedal.

18038  P1630 Accel, Pedal Position -G79 signal too small  (low)
18039  P1631 Accel, Pedal Position -G79 signal too largely (high)
18040  P1632 Accel, Pedal Position -G79 supply voltage  malfunction

18041  P1633 Accel, Pedal Position -G185 signal too small
18042  P1634 Accel, Pedal Position -G185 signal too largely
18047  P1639 Accel, Pedal Position -G79 & -G185 out of range 

You also mentioned that you checked and cleaned the throttle body. If you dismantled it in anyway, then you need to redo adaptation, else the ECU would have no idea how wide the butterfly valve has opened.  Remember there is no throttle cable connecting the accelerator pedal to the throttle housing. This is known as a drive by wire system and it communicates the driver's torque demand to the ECU. The two potentiometers in the accelerator pedal assembly communicates the pedal position directly to the engine control module (ECM) using two separate signals, one signaling the pedal physical position and the other indicating rate of pedal movement.  You will need a scan tool to do the adaptation because any faults in memory must be cleared before adaptation can be done. 

The most common problem is the accelerator pedal itself. One or both of the potentiometers go high resistive/ intermittent and the accelerator pedal assembly should be replaced as a single unit. A tell tail sign of accelerator pedal trouble is that the engine revs higher than 800 rpm and at times the rev counter rises and falls continually whist idling, going as as high as 2000  rpm. If this happens, grab hold of the pedal whilst the car is idling and pull the pedal upwards, away from the floor. If the revs reduce and the surging stabilizers, replace the pedal. The image above shows idling whilst engine in surging and  the image below shows idling with the pedal pulled up.

AUDI OIL USAGE

EXCESSIVE OIL USAGE ON AUDI A4

In a previous blog Audi Oil Pump Problem - Audi A4 Engine Noise, I mentioned the benefits of using VW 503.00 Long Life Engine Oil, but it seems that I was also mislead by the VW propriety oil specification the expanse of which I was unaware. This is probably the reason why my sister's A4 2.0L 2007 engine gave up the ghost. But as they say in the legal circles, "Ignorance of the Law is no excuse". Apparently as long ago as the year 2000 increased requirements compelled vehicle manufacturers globally to reduce exhaust emissions, minimize their carbon footprint, and improve overall fuel economy. Since motor oil plays a crucial  role in meeting these requirements,  the API's (American Petroleum Institute) old petroleum-based motor oils standards was abandoned by VW in favour of advanced cutting-edge synthetic motor oil formulations. As a result, the technologically advanced Audi engine designs required a very specific motor oil that met with Audi quality specification. 

Its newer models fitted with advanced fuel injection systems needs to  be lubricated  by this very specific motor oil formulations in order to guarantee optimal system reliability and fuel economy. These oil specifications started with VW 500.00 for models prior to year 2000 which has been superceded by VW 502.00. Then there is  also  VW 503.00, VW 503.01, VW 504.00, VW 505.00, VW 505.01, VW 506.00, VW 506.01, VW 507.00, etc, each applicable to either or both gasoline and diesel Euro standard engines. But certain oil specs are not suitable for certain vehicles. For example RAVENOL WIV III SAE 5W-30 is not suitable for specification VW 506 01. Meaning Audi engines with LongLife Service (QG1): Diesel-Engines (R5-, V10 TDI Pumpe-Düse) with or without Diesel Particulate Filter.  As well as  Audi engines without LongLife Service: R5-, V10 TDI Pumpe-Düse with or without Diesel Particulate Filter.

Topping up with conventional motor oil that does not meet Audi oil quality standards is therefore risky because the wrong motor oils could cause damage to internal engine components, somewhat increase emissions, reduce fuel mileage, and very likely void applicable vehicle warranties. The vehicle is also bound to use excessive oil and tend to smoke a lot more.

Ravenol HPS 5W-30 oil meets the Audi oil quality standard 502 00 and is  recommended for Audi A4 2005/2006 and on Audi A3 models equipped with the 2.0 Liter Turbo engine with FSI. Their fuel pumps are driven directly off the engine camshaft and lubricated with engine motor oil.  By not using the approved Audi motor oil  these models are subject to premature engine wear which will result in a loud ticking valve noise  after the engine has warmed up to its  operating temperature.  

Ravenol VMP Audi Oil 2010 - meets the Audi 507 00 Oil Spec and is recommended for use on Audi A3 TDI and 2009 - on Audi Q7 TDI models equipped with a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF). Using non-approved Audi motor oil will results in increased oil consumption oil since it will be burning oil. Any non-approved TDI motor oils will clog the DPF  prematurely which is also  quite costly to replace. 

Since the VW oil specification and oil usage cannot be generalized across the Audi and Porsche ranges and old petroleum-based motor oils are no longer usable, it is no wonder that Audi owners are complaining about excessive oil use. Some Audi owners have driven as little as 600 miles or about 950 kilometers before the engine oil low light goes on and the buzzer drives  the m crazy. This is probably because they topped-up with non synthetic oil. Funny enough, Audi stresses the  point of not adding petroleum-based motor oil to its synthetic brands.

ECM POWER RELAY OPEN CIRCUIT

ECM POWER RELAY OPEN CIRCUIT 

17069 - P0685 ERROR

Electrical problems seems to stymie everyone, but repairing an electrical fault can be fairy simple if traced logically. The above error relates to a relay. Relays are just remote switches. Audi, Volkswagen, Seat and Skoda relays can give a fair amount of trouble because its push-in spade terminals may corrode, or they may even pop out of the relay plate due to shaking on bumpy roads. Their contacts may overheat and fuse together, or the spring inside may snap or jump off. Its solenoid can even burn out. Or its plastic enclosure may melt and block the switch mechanism from moving. But these are not the only faults related to relays.

Question?

Will Wallace shared this: 
Hey, I am a bit desperate for advice here, so reaching out.  Having a problem with my GF's VW Polo 1.4L 16V (BUD Engine). I have had to jump start this vehicle every 4 days or so. It will run fine, and then after about 4 days won't start, it either makes a clicking sound (sounds like a relay and wont turn over) when trying to start or starts beeping with the Engine light showing and the Park Brake light flashing (and won't make any sound when turning key). 

Connecting up a scan tool brings up Error 17069. Looking around the forums it seems like quite a common fault, with no real definitive solution. The battery measures 12V without the key in and then goes down to 8.5v when  the key is in and ignition ready. I've tried disconnecting the Plus Battery terminal and connecting a Volt meter to it and the battery post + and setting the DMM to Amps but its not coming up with any amp draw which I think is good (Not sure if I am doing this correctly though). It seems like something is draining the battery or the alternator isn't  charging it properly? I had a battery test done at a auto store and they said  it was fine and the alternator was charging it properly which is bizarre. I have posted this as it seems like a common fault and would be good to get  some advice. Thanks in advance.

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Answer!

Greetings  Will Wallace, so sorry to hear that you having so much grief with your Girlfriend's car. As much as I would like to help you, remote diagnosis without a full scan cannot always be accurate but I hope my thoughts on the matter may steer you in the right direction. The fact the you have  a scan with a 17069 manufacturer's specific code makes quite a difference. The generic code for this fault is P0685 and is relative to the  ECM Power Relay Control Circuit (See other codes below). From which  I can deduce that the Motronic ECM power supply relay itself  may be faulty, because of the 36-Open Circuit designator. However there are several possibilities. One possibility is that the solenoid winding is open circuit, and another is that its contacts doesn't close properly (open circuit), which is more likely. 

But there would also have been additional error codes, like 17072 or 17073. Considering either way, no rail voltage will reach the ECU, neither the injector coils, nor the injectors, etc, hence they won't function and the car would never start. So you need to prize-out the relay and do a physical check to make sure the contacts make or break as expected. The relay number is  J271 and will probably have the number 428 painted or stamped  on it. But before I explain how to do that, I want to raise a few points regarding the rest of your note. 

The clicking sound you hear, may or may not be the relay. If you said a single click I would agree that it's a relay, but since you said clicking, which implies several repeated clicks. It's most likely it's the starter solenoid that is chattering because their is insufficient voltage to keep it engaged, since you say it goes down to 8.5V under load. I'm inclined to favour this idea because it sounds like you battery is running down after 4 days and therefore not strong enough to drive the starter. But since you had that checked, try substituting another battery to make absolutely certain. 

The alternator could also be faulty and not charging the battery but I see you had that checked as well. Yet, it could imply that the diodes in the alternator are breaking down under load even though they function normal at idle. The battery voltage must be at least 11.5 volts constantly for everything to function as normal. Use your DMM and measure if there is any  resistance (ohms) between engine and body, there shouldn't be any. Also make sure you have a good connection  between the  negative battery terminal and the body. 

Regarding the amperage measurement, current is measured in series with the load. I don't think you should try to measure amps with your DMM because it may not be rated to measure more than 10 amps and may blow a fuse or damage its internals. Probably best to get a current clamp to measure current on cars. To return to the chattering, the starter could also have a intermittent power connection and could be the reason why it sometimes starts and sometimes not. Or the starter could be shorting to earth intermittently and draining the battery, hence the 8.5V. The best way to check this is to remove the starter and engergize it on a work bench to make certain it works the way it should. Before removing any control modules or relays from  the relay plate, make sure you disconnect the battery earth cable.

Relay J271 - Pin 85 and 86 are the solenoid terminal. Pin 85 is the 12V input whereas pin 86 is the solenoid earth. 
In the above image,  the only switch contact is between Pin 30 and Pin 87 which is normally open circuit.
When 12V is applied to 85  and 86, (normally happens when the ignition switch is turned  on) the relay 
should click and the power applied to pin 30 should exit on pin 87. If you hear the click but no voltage
 comes out  at pin 87, the relay internal contacts isn't making contact.
Try cleaning the contacts with fine sandpaper.

J271 varies from VW model to VW model, but once you have the relay out, check one of  its sides for the diagram of the pin-outs. It would look like the image on the bottom right.   The solenoid 12V supply will always be marked as 85, the negative always as 86, the normally open (N/O) contact as 87, or the normally closed (N/C) as 87a (if there is one). The pin marked 30 is always the switching voltage supply input. Notice that terminals of 87 and 30 are always larger than the other terminals because they carry a larger amount of current.  

Connect the relay solenoid to a battery with clip leads and measure the voltage at 87 and 87a, and verify that it switches over when you hear the relay click. Alternatively do a continuity test between pin 30 and 87, then again between 30 and 87a and make a note which one is open and which one is closed. Then connect power to the solenoid, pins 86 and 85 and verify that its continuity measurement switch over to the other pin. Unlike the image above, there may be even be more than 1 double pole double throw switch contacts on the relay depending on the model of your car. The Audi J271 is different to some VW's and has more terminals. It's also a good idea to check the relay socket wiring to or from the fuse box.  


P0685 - 17069   (ECM/PCM) Power Supply Relay - J271 - Circuit Open
P0686 - 17070  (ECM/PCM) Power Supply Relay - J271 - Short to Ground
P0687 - 17071   (ECM/PCM) Power Supply Relay - J271 - Signal to Positive

P0688 - 17072  (ECM/PCM) Power Supply Relay - J271 
Load Sensing Circuit - Open Circuit 

P0689 - 17073  (ECM/PCM) Power Supply Relay - J271 
Load Sensing Circuit - Short to Ground

P0690 - 17074  (ECM/PCM) Power Supply Relay - J271 
Load Sensing Circuit - Short to positive

P068A - (ECM/PCM) Power Relay Load Circuit - J271 - Opens Too Early  
P068B - ECM/PCM) Power Relay Load Circuit - J271 - De-activated Too Late

EPC Q & A CONTINUED

EPC Q & A CONTINUED

It appears that more and more VAG drivers are experiencing Limp Mode with their VW, Audi , SKODA and SEAT vehicles and it appears that service agents are not as competent as expected. This urged me to present 3 more limp mode cases on a VW Beetle, VW Golf and a Golf TDI for the benefit of those with similar vehicles.

Question?

Hello my name is Mariiam Lopez. I have a 2002 VW beetle. I had been having problems with my car for more than a year. First started with the EPC LIGHT on, I had it on for a few weeks and it came and went, but then my car started to lose power while driving. I had to park and turn it off. I would wait a few minutes and then I started it again and the light went off . But then the EPC light stayed on and the speed didn't go up 10 miles (limp mode). I went to a mechanic and he said it was the throttle body. I had it changed. Two days the EPC LIGHT got on again. I took it again to another mechanic and he said it was the accelerator sensor. I change it and I even got the pedal. Next week got the EPC LIGHT on. It was driving regularly until it didn't want to turn on. I let my car rest for more than two months. I stared using it for a few weeks now and the EPC LIGHT goes on and off when I turn off. Now while driving in the freeway my car lose power and I have to park and let it rest for a few minutes and it drives fine but after a few minutes EPC LIGHT turns on. Now my car turns off in the middle on the freeway and all the lights on the dashboard are on. I park and turn on again but I have to accelerate in order to make my car work. Also the red oil light goes on and beeps when EPC light is on. My car has the same radio. Thanks

Answer!

Hola Mariam como estas? I so sorry to hear that you've had so much trouble with your VW Beetle and for such a long period of time. I can relate to what you are going through every time you need to go somewhere, especially at night when you have to drive a car that is completely unreliable. Considering that two mechanics, both of whom guessed that your throttle body and your accelerator sensors were faulty and that both parts were  replaced and your Beetle is still faulty, makes you saint with the patience of biblical Job. But your mechanics are not alone, so many VW service agents replace parts on Beetles and other VAG vehicles on a regular basis which often doesn't fix the problem, making car owners constantly despondent with VW and their "technical personel". At this point in time  I would be very hesitant to suggest that you replace any component without a diagnostic scan of your Beetle. It would have been great if you can get a copy of your Beetle's scan from one of your mechanics and upload it, so that I can  properly analyse it. Mind you, the data in group 60 - group 66 would  really be helpful to determine whether or not the adaptation was successful.  The EPC light problem can be caused by some many things and in your case its not your radio. So I suggest you check the fluid levels of your oil and coolant and make sure the coolant isn't leaking from reservoir bottle onto the wiring harness, if it does, the instrument panel is bound to malfunction. Also check that your fuel cap seals properly and check the vacuum hoses from the brake booster to the secondary air inlet valve and the hose to the combi valve. If this doesn't solve your problem, read through some of my other blog pages to get a better idea of what must be checked. I don't wish to scare you but Beetles especially MY2000 are well know for electrical problems and catching alight with the flames originating from underneath the firewall,  burning its way up the wiring harness, melting the fuse block on top of battery. So do take care.

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Question?

Hello my friend. I'm Charles Gunn and I have a VW golf mkv fsi 1.4 2005, which I bought in December of 2007. Since I bought her, she's been going into limp mode when I least expect her to, and have had this problem for the past three years. In my endeavours to fix it, I've tried so many garages, non of whom  could help. Worst of all a VW dealer charged me well over £1200, for replacing the wrong components, making me go back and forth to them, yet they never sorted out the problem. Furious... My VW golf goes into limp mode regardless of weather conditions and especially on long drives and on the motorways whenever I exceed 100kph. I found switching off the engine and letting it cool before staring helped but this was temporary because when it becomes hot, limp mode returnes. She frequently lost power when going up hill or on an incline to a bridge. I've done lots of internet  research and tried most forums but no luck. Thus far I've replaced the NOx sensor, MAF sensor, four coil packs and a fuel rail pressure sensor and an air filter. I spent over £1500 and still have a limp mode problem. Can you please help me? The fault that showed up on the scan is; 

1 Fault Found 
16575 - Fuel Pressure Sensor (G247): Implausible Signal 
P0191 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent 
Readiness: 0000 0000

Answer!

Hi Charley, I must commend you for your perseverance and for your gusto to kick limp mode's ass. Three years of limp mode is probably more than most people can bear. Anyway I see that you replaced a NOx sensor even though your Readiness is 0000 0000. A faulty NOx sensor would have interfered with your short term fuel trim, which would have resulted in a 0010 0000 readiness. A faulty MAF or air filter would also  have also interfered with your readiness which would have resulted in 0001 1000 reading. I'm so sorry to say that you replaced these items, because according to your readiness monitors they are not he cause of your troubles. The coils you replaced can cause limp mode but would also causes the engine to vibrate and idle poorly which would have also given you a P0300 (misfire) error code, so I think they were also replaced unnecessarily. The fact that you replaced the fuel rail pressure sensor says that your were definitely on the right track as pointed out by theP0191 fault, which may have been faulty hence sending intermittent signals to the ECU. However I am more inclined to think that your submersible fuel pump inside the tank is the culprit since it is responsible for creating the fuel pressure, which  is absolutely necessary to drive the injectors. But before you replace the pump, monitor the voltage supply to the pump since corrosion on the fuse in the fuse box that supplies the fuel pump voltage could cause a very similar symptoms.

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Question?

Hi, I need your advice  and please go easy on me because I'm a woman, who  knows very little about cars.  I have a Vw Golf GT TDI 2.0 with 81000 miles on the clock, which I bought about a month ago and it goes into limp home mode, whenever I get to about 70 mph and 3000rpm's but it comes right  when the engine is turned off and back on again. The local garage  ran a dianostics check and they suggested that I either put some diesel cleaner into my tank or use cleaner diesel as they think it's the turbo sensors that  gets clogged-up with soot! I've done some internet research and forums suggested I check the MAF.  So yesterday i drove the Golf untill it went into limp mode, then I switched off the engine and unplugged the MAF.  I could feel that the turbo wasn't working, not as responsive as it usually is. Anyway I drove upto 75 mph, when limp mode usually kicks in. Nothing happened and I increased my speed to 85mph and limp mode still didnt make an appearance. I stopped the Golf, switched off the engine  plugged MAF back in and sure enough limp mode kicked in at 75mph, do you think I need to change the MAF or could it be something else causing the problem?

Answer!

Hi there. It really would have been great if you had a diagnostic scan from which to work but since you don't have one, analysis is bound to be difficult and probably inaccurate. A MAF sensor can cause a limp mode home fault but it doesn't not mean it is faulty in your case. By disconnecting the MAF sensor the OBD System Component Monitor would immediately determine that the  mass airflow  sensor circuit voltage is outside an acceptable range. Thus One of two things could happen:-

1. The ECU will prevent the car from starting.
2. The engine will start but may trigger the malfunction indication lamp (MIL) and the car would also smoke profusely. Since the ECU cannot achieve the required stoichiometric ratio, it will trigger a DTC P1101 in memory. If the ECU supports "failure mode effects management" (FMEM) it will  default to a ‘safe’ mass airflow value, allowing the the vehicle to be driven to workshop for repair. Somehow I think you may not have unplugged the MAF but it is worth your while cleaning the MAF but be careful not to damage the wire inside.  Since  your car is Diesel I somehow doubt that is would be the MAF .

Question?

Nazeem Sterris. Hi.I have a polo 1.4 16v bby.problem is epc light stays on. It starts well.revs up well but has a slight miss fire when idling.after couple of minutes of idling it goes into a limp mode where revs go up to 1500rpm and pedal don't work. Pls help

Answer?

Hi Nazeeem. The slight miss you are describing is most likely the cause of your EPC problem. Sorry, I cannot pinpoint the problem for you because  you don't have a diagnostic scan attached, I'm guessing that the miss could be associated with your Ignition Coils, your Fuel Injectors,  or your Throttle Body, or your Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve or even your Wastegate Bypass Regulator Valve. You need to work through them systematically but first check that your fuel cap seals because if it doesnt, the EVAP pressure cannot stabilize  and can also trigger the EPC circuit.