ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS 

A few days ago I was driving behind a string of cars through Liesbeek Parkway when I was startled by several drivers repeatedly  hooting at an Audi A4 driving in front of them to get out of the way or change lane. The Audi A4 that was holding up the traffic had a Guateng registration plate and  my first impression was that its occupants got lost at the spaghetti junction fly-over, not knowing which off ramp to take.

However when these impatient hooting drivers finally overtook the Audi A4 and I got to drive behind it;  I then realized that the Audi A4 was in fact in Limp Mode. Its driver was attempting to get to the shoulder of the road from the centre lane and the traffic just wasn't easing up.

In my opinion, these impatient driver just weren't aware that when a vehicle goes into Limp Mode it cannot go any faster than it's already going even though its driver was flooring the accelerator pedal. And I may add that ignorance about Limp Mode is no excuse, because its been around since 1996.

Vehicle Delivery Services Salvaged Limp Mode car

DRIVER COURTESY

Driver courtesy is very important to bolster safe driving conditions for everyone but an education regarding Limp Mode would be considered far more important. When a car suddenly reduces speed after driving at normal speed, it could be one of several reasons; among which could be steering vibration due to a puncture. Or the vehicle ran out of fuel. Or the engine may have switched off due to a dead battery caused by either alternator issues or snapped fan belt. 

Or the engine may be overheating, or the driver heard a disturbing noise coming from the engine. Or it could be an electrical fault like a faulty fuel pump or an ignition system failure like a defective engine or transmission control unit. Or the driver could have fell ill behind the wheel, to mention but a few of the myriad of reasons why a vehicle could stall or it may have entered in Limp Mode. 

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS

The engines of cars with automatic transmissions can sometimes switch off mid travel for some obscure reason. The only option the driver has, is to pull off the road, bring the car to a halt, place it in park or neutral to restart the engine. I know of someone who shifted his automatic transmission into neutral when the engine cut out mid travel, restarted the car and shifted it back into drive. This caused his car to almost come to a stand-still instantly causing the wheels to screech as the engines inhibited the transmission.  This type of action can and probably will damage the transmission subject to the gearing system inside and should never be done. Unfortunately no On-board diagnostics makes provision to prevent this.

When an engine cuts out at say 100kph both the power steering and vacuum boosted brakes stops working, thereby making steering difficult and the braking inefficient. It is therefore best to pull off onto  the shoulder of the road and check what the problem is an remedy it before continuing on your journey.

ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS

On-Board Diagnostics does a pretty decent job of protecting the engine and transmission against damage by limiting  acceleration, keeping the engine revs to a maximum of 2000 (RPM) and speed to about 45kph - aka Limp Mode. When Limp Mode is enabled, it may lock an automatic transmission  in low gear and even disable both heating and air conditioning. Yet keeping the engine running so that it can be driven to a repair shop.

However, as clever as an ECU is,  it doesn't do anything to alert the driver of the car that follows close behind. Considering tail lights, brake light, reverse lights and  indicators represents a language used by vehicle drivers for those  following behind, to indicate their driving intentions. This light language that's been around for the better part of the automotive industry's existence yet it still haven't come-up with an appropriate and safe warning sign/method for Limp Mode. 

LIMP MODE INDICATOR

To remedy this, car manufacturers could include flashing hazard lights or perhaps fit an LED Display with a scrolling message along the the rear window as an alert to tell the driver following behind that the car in front of it has gone into Limp Mode. Alternatively, electronics savvy car owners can fit their own aftermarket hack by identifying the switching output of the appropriate automotive  High Side Switch (HSS) responsible for protection and diagnostics inside the ECU when Limp Mode is enabled.

Automotive industry High-Side Switches /Drivers - Integrated Circuit 

This may not be as easy as it may seem or sounds because of the myriad of automotive chip manufactures, each pushing their our integrated circuits (ICs) running custom/propriety software, among which are Infineon Technologies AG,   Robert Bosch, Qualcomm, Renesas Electronics Corporation (Intersil), NXP Semiconductors,  STMicroelectronics, Texas Instruments, Intel and Microchip Technology Inc, etc.

However, most of these manufacturers produce Power Switches and incorporate Open Load Detection in their design so that they can perform open-circuit diagnosis on loads, such wiper motors, fans, head lamps, fuel pump, mirrors, actuators in general and LED lights while  the load is enabled or disabled. Open load diagnosis is probably the most important function of the software driven High-Side Switch (HSS) and Low-Side Switch when wired in a specific configuration which allows for currents from 5mA to more than 10A to be accurately detected.   

As such able to generate a hardware signal (Limp Mode signal) that can directly control the hardware without the participation of the microprocessor in the ECU. This output can be used to as either a digital High of Low (using CMOS inverter) to drive a LED display that flashes LIMP MODE..... LIMP MODE..... LIMP MODE.....

Overactive Check Engine Light

AUTOMOTIVE RELIABILITY  

All automotive manufacturers have reliability issues with some or certain of their vehicles and Volkswagen is no exception even though it is one of the largest car manufacturer in the world. Globally the masses buy cars in general based on its looks (aesthetics), price, performance and reliability but not necessarily in that order.

In my opinion, reliability play a major role in decision making and should always be considered first. Hence, the question that begs to be asked is, "What's the use of owning a smart looking car with better than average performance that you acquired at a very attractive price but is as unreliable as a career politician". 

Understandably car manufacturers at times produce lemons (The Monday Car) or unknowingly fit a substandard part to some of the vehicles which only becomes apparent when it starts to fail in the field, necessitating a recalls. However, often times these troublesome parts slip through the cracks and fail infrequent enough and disparate enough as not to alert car owners to this pending problem and that is replaceable under recall. 

As a consequence car owners foot the repair bill for something that may never have been necessary to fix or replace if the manufacturer did their due diligence by adequately testing these parts before use. Any and all parts not tress tested or burn-in tested invariably fails and these failing parts then becomes known as Common Problems that plague the car owners.

Case in point, the Volkswagen Jetta 2006 - 2019 appears to have the most issues — aka Common Problems — necessitating seven (7)  major recalls due to some 295 complaints by owners to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). When these statistics are compare to the more reliable models, like the Volkswagen Golf GTI and the Tiguan which had absolutely no recalls and a very small number of complaints registered with the NHTSA, one notices the reliability factor.

MISLEADING DATA

This reminds me of how computer hardrives manufactures like Seagate, Western-Digital and Hewlett-Packard etc label hardrives by rating them at 1 Million hours  — MTBF (mean time before failure). One would be misled to believe when manufacturers as a whole guarantees the item/part in question for 1 million hours of operation before failure,. Whereas the said item has not even been in existence or production for this length of time, let alone tested for failure for this duration. One (1) million hours roughly equates to 114 years, so one can see how misleading that rating really is.

WHAT MTBF REALLY MEANS

Having said all that, I feel that MTBF is a really bad measure for determining the probable life span of any item, be it a hardrive, a light bulb, a printer, a TV, a car part or an entire car. However, what MTBF really means, is that if the manufacturer built 1 million units and started running burn-in test on all of them at the same time, one item is expected to fail per hour.  The same hold true for producing 5000 units, implying 1 unit will fail every 5000 hours. This is especially true for electronic components, its failure varying between the stringent implementation or slack specification and tolerances they are manufactured under. 

The German tradition and culture of manufacture in general gives rise to vehicles one can rely on with proven reliability and durability based on robust design, assembly, pride and attention to detail. This is noticeable on cars built and assembled in  Wolfsburg, Lower Saxony, Germany when compared to German designed cars manufactured/assembled elsewhere among which are South Africa, Mexico, Brazil, Asia etc. 

If your Volkwagen's VIN number starts with SN, ST or W you have a car that may outlast you whereas any other "world manufacturer identifier" prefix will virtually guarantee you a life of replacing parts. Purely because they are assembled from parts originating from ancillary OEM parts manufacturers and Chinese auto parts manufacturers instead of genuine VW parts originating from Germany.

Common Problems on Volkswagen vehicles mainly stems from these sub-standard rogue parts and several of them may be responsible for your Overactive Check Engine Light, from your leaking coolant, to excessive oil use and smoking, to engine overheating, to mention but a few.

EXCESSIVE SMOKING

Hard plastic has become the preferred product from which to manufacture modern day car spare parts —  in place of diecast aluminum machined to perfection —  and is used in abundance in most cars to reduce manufacturing costs, the overall weight of the vehicle that consequently improve its millage. 

However these plastic parts do become brittle over time thus prone to failure due to the engine heat. For example a blocked plastic PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve — responsible for extracting the blow-by gases from the crankcase —  may be the cause of rough idling, poor acceleration and an increase in oil consumption and as a consequence excessive exhaust smoke. When detected by to O2 sensor will cause the Check Engine Light (CEL) to trigger.

OVER HEATING

Plastic thermostat assemblies commonly leak prematurely when they become contaminated by engine oil from a leaking PCV system. This may lead to that stubborn coolant leak that you cannot find  is more-likely-than-not caused by plastic pipe couplings, plastic hoses connectors, or perhaps the plastic radiator tanks located behind the AC condenser  that developed a minute crack, all able to cause overheating.

That EPC light.

The most likely reason you're reading this blog post, is because you encountered an EPC fault with your Volkswagen vehicle. I bet you wondered what that yellow/orange light was when it lit-up or perhaps startled when you car went into "limp mode". Whether you're driving a VW Polo or VW Jetta, VW Golf,  VW Caddy, VW Passat, T-Cross, Sharan, Touareg, Transporter, or any other Volkswagen or even a German Audi, or a Czech Skoda or a Spanish VW SEAT, you've come to the right place because they all have an  Electronic Power Control circuit. 

In fact all "modern day" vehicles have EPC circuit, which loudly says that the automotive industry have finally reached some consensus on standardization. But let me tell you what the EPC light actually is. It's just a signal light informing you that there is an error in your vehicles torque circuit. That's the short answer, however, I can tell by the look on your face that it wasn't a  satisfactory answer, so let me give you the long version.

The EPC light is part of the Electronic Power Control Circuit which is just one of the components of OBD-II which was mandated by a certain regulatory bodies with regulatory intent. Their initial intention was to limit carbon emissions / exhaust fumes from cars on the street of America. 

The California Air Resources Board (CARB) and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) together with the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) collectively originated the On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System because of high levels of smog produced by automobiles throughout the USA.  

Their initial On-Board Diagnostic System was subsequently superseded by the all new and improved verion OBD-II, hence all cars manufactured post 1996 has an Electronic Power Control Circuit and by extension an EPC light. The European on-board diagnostics (EOBD) regulations are the European equivalent of the American OBD-II. 

On-Board Diagnostic (OBD-II) is an automotive mechatronic, micro processor / micro controller based computer system with programmed presets that continuously monitors inputs from numerous sensors fitted through the car. 

It then computes/compares/ compensates these inputs against stored data and drives various actuators to perform certain tasks. In a nutshell OBD-II is an input/output (I/O) information processing system much like the PC / laptop / or even your smart phone. By example, a keyboard, a mouse, a joystick, a scanner and a microphone are common computer input devices whereas a HD monitor, a printer, speakers and headphones are common computer output devices. 

Here the computer/laptop makes calculations based on its internal operating system and software to do something intelligible for humans. However in the case of OBD-II, its CPU (Central Processing Unit) is called an ECU (Electronic Control Unit) and among its input sensors are the Accelerator Position Sensor, Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF), Lambda O2 Sensor, Knock sensor, Oli level sensor, Coolant Temperature Sensor, the Camshaft Position Sensor, the Crank Position Sensor, the Wheel Speed  Sensor etc, to mention but a few.

Among its output actuators and solenoids are the drive-by-wire electronic throttle actuator, the fuel injectors, the EPC light, Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL), the Immobilizer, the Airbags and the Power Steering Pump, etc, again to mention but a few,

This ECU is sometimes referred to as an Engine Control Unit especially when intending to make reference to the TCU (Transmission Control Unit). The ECU is sometimes even called ECM (Engine Control Module) when making reference to other electronic control modules like the ABS module, the Instruments module, the Central Electronics Module, the CAN gateway module, the Radio Module, etc, again to mention but a few 

However, the ECU and the TCU are collectively referred to as Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The ECM essentially controls the efficiency of the engine performance by using a Crankshaft Position Sensor to determine the position of the cams in order to activate the injection of fuel into the cylinders and the timing of the ignition spark to ignite it at precisely the correct moment in petrol engines. 

Likewise the ECM in Diesel engines, plays a huge role in the success of the turbodiesel models. But in order for this to happen, an electronic throttle control had to be introduced, replacing the  cable from the pedal to the carburetor system which was prone to idle speed deviation between a hot and cold engine that became more and more prevalent as the components wore out. 

In so doing, the ECM can adjust the electronic throttle angle during acceleration to achieve the right quantitative relationship ratio between the actual airflow through the engine and the injected fuel thus maintaining Stoichiometry. Controlling the throttle airflow on the fly, markedly improves overall torque and driveability which is known as torque-mapping, an advantage that is only possible with drive-by-wire. 

So, the Electronic Power Control Circuit consists of the ECM, the Accelerator Position Sensor, the Throttle Position Sensors, the Throttle Actuator, the MAF / Air Filter, the Fuel Injectors, the High Pressure Fuel Pump, Fuel Temperature Sensor, Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor and Pressure Relief Valve. 

The single accelerator position sensor is made up of two individual potentiometers each acting independently of the other but collectively operate with opposite polarity voltages supplied by the ECM, as a safety back-up for one another. 

Thus, if either potentiometer fails, the ECM will activate limp mode. This is a safety measure that prevents the system from acting as if it had an accelerator cable that got stuck in the runaway position and the makings of a potential accident. The cruise control also has influence on the throttle body and requires the brake pedal to be depressed to cancel the cruise control. 

The ECU normally takes this cancellation signal from the brake light MOSFET low-side driver in the ECU. So either the brake pedal switch and the a brake light bulb can cause an EPC error along with the aforementioned fuel supply components. It's best to have a diagnostic tester to check for DTC errors via the DLC connector. It would at the very least steer you in the right direction to fix your EPC problem effectively.

Grand Theft Auto

Volkswagen (VW) motor vehicles are not only popular among car enthusiasts, they  are also very popular car among the first-time car-buying youth. That said, VW vehicles have also become most popular car among car thieves to steal.

According the Crime Statistics Report for the years 2020 and 2021 - released by the South African Police Service (SAPS)- motor vehicle theft in general has steadily increased since 2011. However, it is correct thinking to assume that thieves have a preference to certain make and model of car.  Case in point - both the VW Polo hatchback and VW Polo sedan are at a higher risk of being stolen than any other VW model and other manufacture's vehicles as a whole.  

VW Polo Hatchback

Since its release in 2018 the VW Polo Hatchback had become the most stolen cars in South Africa. By 2019 it was the most sold passenger vehicle; targeted by "chop-shops" -illegal garages that buy stolen cars - to disassemble them and sell their individual components for profit - aka midnight spares. 

The new VW Polo hatchback - front-wheel drive, 5 door with 5 seats, powered by a 2.0L TURBO 4 engine that outputs 147 kW of power and 320 Nm of torque costs roughly between R320K and R480K whereas a older model or one with  a lower capacity can sell for anything from R170 000 and R250 000 subject to millage and overall condition.

VW Polo Sedan

The VW Polo sedans comes in as either Trendline, Comfortline, Highline and are essentially the sedan version of the  VW Polo hatchback with and engine capacity of either 63 kW  of 77kW fetching a price between R270k and R350k.

Insurance

Loosing a vehicle of this calibre with such a pricetag can be really gruesome hence a condition of any hire-purchase agreement to keep the vehicle adequately insured but an anti hijack immobilizer and alarm system is also essential. Car insurance coupled to Life Insurance may also be highly advantagious.

Anti-theft Alarm, Remote Central Locking and Remote Central Locking are not standard features of all models but the all do come with an Immobilizer but without Automatic Door Lock. It is therefore feasible to invest in an anti-Blocker, anti-Signal, anti-Jammer engine immobilizer with vehicle tracking GPS tracker support and engine cut in preference of the factory fitted product.

Transponder detection

Since most later vehicles are fitted with receiver and transponders chips, stealing a car without having its corresponding key is quite difficult.  If the key isn't close to the steering column stalk that houses the receiver coil or not within key detection distance then engine will not start.  Thieves also resort to key re-programmers and signal grabbers to counteract new technologies like ‘push to start’ buttons installed in the later model vehicles.

Carjacking

So, in order for thieves to steal your car they would have to take it from you by force  - hijacking, a horrific experience. Most cars today are stolen that way by hijacking the driver. If the thieves don't have the matching ignition key, the immobilizes prevents them from starting it by inhibiting the starting process, hence they take the car from the driver with key by force -carjacking. 

Safety Tips to prevent a possible hijacking

Before getting into your car, look around for any any suspicious characters. Should they be around alert a friend, family member or neighbour, even get them to accompany you.

Hijackings are often than not planned, so be be vigalent and cognizant of vehicles following you even at a distance.

Jot down the number plates of vehicles that or that continually pop up on your daily travels and check against previous ones.

Report any s suspicious activity to your local neighbourhood watch or security company of police.

Make sure that you are not being followed before driving into your driveway where you could be cornered.

Alert someone at home before driving into your driveway, to come outside to observe if there are suspicious characters lurking about.

Always be aware and alert of your surroundings before getting out of your car.

Never stop or park your car in a way that you cannot get away from someone following you quickly. 

Be aware of any vehicle blocking your driveway as you pull into it. Honk your hooter constantly to alert neighbours. It may be sufficient to scare them off.

Common OBD-II Problems

OBD-II has now been in our faces for a "Quarter Century" and even though it works fairly efficiently to control the hydro-carbon emissions in post '96 vehicles to some degree, it isn't as effective as some people would've liked, in terms of its diagnostic accuracy or as transparent and simplistic in its use to aid the layman.  On the flip side, many people with several mechanics among them completely abhors OBD-II and sees it more as a hindrance that a help and even add that they prefer cars not to have OBD-II. Since its inception, OBD-II has stymied mechanics globally, especially when the OBD-II system shuts down the engine and turns on the  EPC Light or Check Engine Light. And today, some 25 years later most car owners and mechanics still suffer fits effects yet endure the wrath of OBD-II. However, regardless of what we as lay people say, OBD-II is here to stay and we cannot wish it or will it away. 

Genuine Volkswagen / Audi Harness Mfg Part #: 1KD971658

Personally I think OBD-II is a great in all aspects and incarnations however it has its drawbacks. OBD-II  does place car owners at a huge disadvantage and at risk when it fails. Purely because the problems are not evident but rather masked by the mysteries of electronics technology. This very often leaves them stranded and in a dangerous situations when stuck in the middle of nowhere. With the result that even the DIY car owners cannot do any repair work themselves, but have to resort to phoning  a salvage company to come  load their vehicle onto  a rollback.  Unless of course they have previously invested in a OBD-II scanner  and is able to check for DTC error codes.  But as the saying goes, "most people only lock the stable after the horse has bolted". 

Another drawback of OBD-II is that since car owners in general do not own diagnostic scanners; so they have to rely on some mechanic workshop or mechanical to tell them what problems they've encountered with their vehicle but only once its repaired. Considering most mechanics / repair shops repair OBD-II errors by substituting parts until the cause of the problem is  solved. Merely because they don't even understand the workings of OBD-II well enough to pinpoint problems with any great success. For most of us, this type of hit-&-miss approach comes as an un-bugeted expense, which most car owners can ill-afford especially after having to pay the exorbitant rollback cost.

I believe there are thousands more vehicle owners today, interested in their own vehicle's maintenance and there are even more inclined towards DIY repairs than ever before because of ODB-II. Their motivating factor being the high cost of automotive repairs vs the low cost of ODB-II diagnostic scanners. Albeit that the lower cost scanners bordering on cheap doesn't do such a fantastic diagnostic scan as their more expensive counter parts. 

NEW GENERATION CARS

Hopefully, the next generation of automobiles will be released with onboard diagnostic scanners incorporated directly into the vehicle's infotainment system. Seeing that these fancy units are comprised of  several discrete devices built into the same platform.  It's quite common for the average touch screen infotainment systems to have features ranging from  Built-in Bluetooth to Built-in WIFI which supports WiFi hot-spot broadcasting. Integrated phone connectivity for calls. Some even have rear view camera support. 

Others have fully fledged full-format 1080P video decoding, and USB functionality with multi-format audio and multi-band radio, coupled to dedicated dual voice-coil subwoofer and surround sound speakers. Not to mention Internet APP download capability.  Some include mirror and link for both Android and IOS Phones and a Global Positioning System (GPS) for navigation. All thanks to the magic of powerful multi-core processors and microprocessor embedded systems. 

I'd say adding an OBD-II scanner in place of one of these gadgets would be more beneficial 

So, throwing in a pretty decent quality OBD-II scanner into such a menagerie of tech wouldn't be such a biggie for car manufacturers and the cost wouldn't be prohibitively expensive either.  But since we not at that point in automotive evolution as yet, most DIY car owners have to rely on the handheld / smartphone diagnostics to scan their cars. 

Be that as it may. Very fortunately there are some common fault lists that would prevent you from having to go buy an expensive OBD-II scanner or go through the agony and trauma of having your car fixed by trial and error. Sharing  common automotive problems for the benefit of other, who are bound to experience the exact same problems in the very near future is a godsend.  Same model cars tend to have the same problems as others but invariable and inevitably those components will fail because obsolescence was part of its initial design. The same components used different model cars tend to fail in the same way and cause the same problems.

We've found that the most common OBD-II problems are associated with misfiring engine cylinders, problematic exhaust Gate Reticulation system (EGR), Oxygen Sensor (O2), Electrical Harnesses and fault Catalytic Converters. Many car owners are decating their diesel models, claiming better performance. But since OBD-II was explicitly introduced to control and reduce carbon emissions, removing it is not such a great idea. 

VW / Audi Harness ES#: ES2993475  

 

COMMON FAULTS 

Erratically idling, or misfiring of bucking or  car goes into limp mode or starts and cuts out all result any one or more of the following error codes:-

P0105 - Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure Voltage supply

P0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure out of range 

P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure Low Input

P0108 - Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure High Input

P0234 - Turbocharger Overboost Condition Control limit exceeded

P0235 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) Control circuit  limit not reached

P0236 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) circuit  out of range

P0237 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) circuit  Low Input

P0238 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) circuit  High Input

P0243 - Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid (A) Open/Short Circuit to Ground

P0245 - Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid (A) Low Input/Short to ground

P0246 - Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid (A) High Input/Short to B+

P1154 - Manifold Switch Over Malfunction

P1155 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Short to B+

P1156 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Open/Short to Ground

P1157 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Power Supply Malfunction

P1158 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit  out of range

P1400 - EGR Valve Circuit  Electrical Malfunction

P1401 - EGR Valve Circuit  Short to Ground

P1402 - EGR Valve Circuit  Short to B+

P1403 - EGR Flow Deviation

P1404 - EGR Flow Basic Setting not carried out

P1406 - EGR Temperature Sensor Performance range

P1407 - EGR Temperature Sensor Signal too Low

P1408 - EGR Temperature Sensor Signal too High

P1511 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve - Electrical circuit malfunction

P1512 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve Short circuit to B+

P1513 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve2 Short circuit to B+

P1514 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve2 Short circuit to ground

P1515 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve Short circuit to ground

P1516 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve - Open circuit 

P1520 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve2 - Open circuit 

P1521 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve2 electrical circuit malfunction

P1553 - Barometric/manifold pressure signal ratio out of range

Polo Highline 1.9 TDI (9N) 2005

16621 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too Low

P0237 - 000 - -

Audi A5 (8T0) 2012 

4166 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31)

P0238 00 [039] - Signal too High

Audi TT 1.8L R4/5VT 

16622 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High

0238 - 35-00 - 

000568 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High

P0238 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - MIL ON

Passat 2.0T R4/4V TFSI 2006 

000568 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High

P0238 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - MIL ON

VW Touran 1.9 TDI

P0236 - Manifold Pressure/Boost Sensor (G31) - Range/Performance Problem/Implausible Signal

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)(K83) active.

VW Golf 7 1.6TDI 

16622 (P0238 ) - Manifold Pressure/Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High

16618 (P0234) - Boost Pressure Regulation: Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition)

Passat 2.0T R4/4V TFSI 2006 

004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve

P1297 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded

This MAP Manifold Pressure Sensor aka Boost Sensor aka Thrust sensor  aka G31 is just a  thermistor. Essentially a resistor of a special kind, with the ability to change its resistance  subject to its surrounding temperature, hence the term thermistor is just a  word combination of "thermal" and "resistor".  However G31 sensor may not be fault but rather the wiring harness. Due to the constant engine heat, the harness wiring gets hard and becomes brittle resulting in poor contact, short and open circuits. 

FYI - Thermistors essentially come in two varieties, viz NTC (negative temperature coefficient) and a PTC (positive temperature coefficient). You can quite simply use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance of the thermistor. Then by bringing a hot soldering iron  tip close to the thermistor, its resistance would change in response to the soldering iron's radiated heat. When the resistance increases its a PTC and an NTC when the resistance decreases.  Much like discrete component resistors that are colour coded, thermistors leads are also colour coded which identifies the temperature range they operate at.

CATALYTIC CONVERTER

Catalytic Converter have become a hot topic of late. Thieves are stealing Catalytic converters from parked cars at night. However the Polo Highline 1.9 TDI is known to be troublesome. The main reason for  this being, use of poor quality diesel (500ppm as opposed to 50ppm or even 5ppm) and irregular oil changes  which caused soot build-up to block the performance of the catalytic converter, which in turn may lead to turbo failure.  So its fair to say that it's  not uncommon to remove/replace blocked catalytic converters  to prolong the life of the turbo itself.

However if it's not the Catalytic converter itself causing the above error,  it very possibly not the sensor either even though the diagnostic software may indicate that.  I'd say rather check, repair or replace the wiring harness to the Boost Pressure Sensor (G31) and also check wiring to the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (G42).  See my previous blog post https://volkswagen-polo-highline.blogspot.com/2015/03/wiring-harness-issues.html 

The diagnostic scanners may also thow the following errors in conjunction with the error above,  which could be caused by a leak in Air Intake and or Exhaust

16490 - Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor (G71) / (F96): Implausible Signal

P0106 - 35-00 - -

18000 - Altitude Sensor / Boost Pressure Sensor: Implausible Correlation

P1592 - 000 - -

Diesel engines are quite different from petrol engines in the sense that  the diesel engine is not variable in speed or power by controlling the air entering the engine as we do with the  throttle body in petrol styled engines. Feedback from Catalytic converter in petrol engines are also used to adjust the short term and long term fuel trim. Implying that petrol cars also have turbo boost errors due to the cat and intake and exhaust sensors.

16485 / P0101 Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) (G70) = Circuit Signal Implausible (out of range)

16497 / P0113 Intake Air Temperature  Sensor-1 (G42) = Signal too High

16515 / P0131 O2 (Lambda) sensor low voltage =  Bank-1 Low Voltage

16584 / P0200 Injector circuit =   Injector Circuit electrical fault

16620 / P0236 Turbo / Manifold Pressure Boost Sensor (G31) = Signal Implausible (out of range)

16622 / P0238 Turbo / Manifold Pressure Boost Sensor (G31) = Signal too High

16683 / P0299 Turbo Boost Pressure Reg = Control Range not reached (underboost) /mechanical fault

16785 / P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) = Insufficient Flow (blocked)

17055 / P0671  Glow Plug/Heater Cylinder 1 (Q10)  electrical fault, open circuit 

17958 / P1550 code = Charge Pressure Control Deviation

Check for air leaks on both intake or exhaust side 

Turbocharger - check for whining engine and exhaust smoke

Charge Air Pressure Sensor faulty  - check connection to one of the the intercooler pipes

Wastegate Regulator N75 Valve  faulty  - Check one of the 3 thin hoses for leaks

18534 / P2102 Throttle  Actuator Control Motor = Signal too Low, check voltage to accelerator pedal 

18675 / P2243 O2  Sensor Reference Voltage Bank 1, open circuit 

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FOB key

FOB key Tips and Tricks

With the advent of electronics, life for many has become somewhat easier and high-tech. Case in point, the trusty television cordless infrared remote control and its earlier ultrasonic equivalents. Both circumventing the "jack in a box" activity we all so enjoyed, during the days of legacy non-remote control television sets. Likewise, our cars has also gone high-tech, flaunting electronic car key remote controls with features never seen before. No longer using infra-red or ultrasonic but a coded signal modulated in a wireless radio frequency in the 315 to 434 mhz range.  

Not only has remote controls replaced the aim push and turn function our writs won't forget but has gone far beyond locking or unlocking doors, remotely starting the car,  emitting chirping sounds with flashing hazards to assist us to find our car in a fully populated parking lot. These fancy electronic remotes control marvels are referred to as a "fob", an acronym for Frequency Operated Button. In a previous lifetime, a "fob" was the name given to the chain connecting a packet watch to its owner. Today the "fob" is form of invisible tether, chaining the remote to the car. Some say the word "fob" comes from the German word Fuppe, meaning pocket. I suppose that's where its going live when its not on the car. 

Manufacturers are constantly adding more features to the already multitude of functions that make both the car and the key "fob"  more useful than ever before. But its not all done in the name of the client. It has allowed manufacturers skimp of a few items that drove the price of the car up ever so slightly. Fobs allowed them to only install a single driver-door key cylinder, thereby saving on the cost of the other three, the installation time and somewhat reduced the weight of the car, alongside so many other items.  Collectively contributing to its overall fuel economy. But the quality of this driver's door cylinder isn't design nor manufactured robust enough and daily use. It's intended for emergencies only use, when the key is either locked inside the car or the battery had died of the "fob"  has gone faulty. Using it daily will kill that lock before you can fluently say, Rumplestillhurrywisepunywalgeemuckagee.

VW button mechanically operated switch blade "fob" comes in 2 basic flavours -- 2 button and 3 button.  One buttons specifically  for lock and the other for unlock. Keeping the button depress for a few seconds activates windows either open or close whichever is needed.  A flashing LED on the remote denotes communication.
Depending on the ECU/ control module settings, button depresses can be either audible or visible or both. Meaning a peep or two from the hooter and single or double flashing of the hazard light, or nothing based on personal preferences.  In the case of a 3 button, much like the 2 it just has a 3 for trunk release. In those vehicles with an auto lift trunk piston feature, pressing the unlock button will is open the trunk completely. 

The "fob" is a sophisticated piece of equipment but when it misbehaves, and you have to make multiple attempts before it performs a function, it could be that the battery is going flat. This is easily verified by viewing the intensity of the blinking LED on the "fob". A faint LED is a tell tail sign the the battery is giving up the ghost. When the battery is replaced, the "fob" needs to be reset. This can be done by pressing the lock one second while the car is locked. Nothing will happen except perhaps a low volume yet mechanical clunk. Remove the cylinder cover, unlock and re-lock your your car with the master-key, not spare key. This action will cause your "fob" to reset itself.

When the car wont start and the light is flashing the key, keep it close to start button to make reading the key easier so that the car will start. VW Tiquan and some other later VW's allows  "fob"  synchronization and reprogramming of driver preference like, radio stations, mirror positions, etc.  Since a detailed rundown of the procedures are beyond the scope of this post, your owners' manual is by far your best bet. 

VW Fuses Switches and Relays

VW Fuses  Switches and Relays

Single Pole Single Throw

Electrical switches comes in several configurations, but are normally classified into only four types. The most common switch is the single pole single throw, abbreviated as SPST. This implies it has one contact that is normally open —abbreviated N/O—  which is closed when the switch is flicked. This type of switch is either on-or-off / open circuit or closed circuit. This switch also comes in the form of a push button switch which is normally open and closes when pushed but when released it open once again. It is also known as push-to-make, abbreviated PTM. An example of a PTM is a door bell switch or a cars hooter or the individual keys on a keyboard. Push button switches also comes in a normally closed configuration and opens when pushed, but when released, it closes again. Commonly  known as push-to-break, abbreviated PTB. An example of a PTB switch is used to release a door, held closed by an electromagnet.

Suzuki GS500 GSXR1100, Honda  VT 500 VT600 VT700 VF750,
Kawasaki ZX1000 ZX 1100 Solenoid

Single Pole Double Throw

The second and slightly more advanced switch is the single pole double throw switch, abbreviated as SPDT. This is a three terminal switch which toggles between two states when switched. SPDT are in essence two switches in one package. The one switch is normally open whilst the other is normally closed. By flicking the switch the two switches reverses their roles. The normally open switch is then closed and the normally close switch is opened. By connecting a SPDT at either end of a long passage to turns the lights or off, one is able to enter the passage at one end, turn the lights on and when exiting the passage at the other end switch the lights off. SPDT can be used as a SPST in an application by just using the centre contact and either one of the other two contacts, depending on what type of switch you need, N/O or N/C.  SPDT switches are also available with a centre-off position, known as momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON) switch.

Volkswagen 4H0951253 Starter Relay 645 and 1J0906381A Fuel pump relay 109. 

Double Pole Single Trow

The third type of switch is the DPST and is similar to the SPST switch in operation except that it has a pair of on-off switches that switch together. It is commonly used to connect / interrupt both the live and neutral supplies in a circuit simultaneously or it may be used to switch two separate circuits simultaneously. Computer power supplies have DPDT switches as a safety feature to avoid getting electrocuted whilst working on the power supply if only one pole was switched. 

Double Pole Double Throw

The fourth type of switch is the DPDT and is similar to the SPDT switch in operation except that it has a pair of on-on switches that switch together. It is commonly wired to reverse the direction of a DC motor or be used to switch between to different colour LEDS. DPDT can be used as a DPSP in an application by using the centre contact and either one of the other two contacts and duplicated on the paired switch. DPDP switches are also available with a centre-off position, known as momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON) switch.

Switches 

Switches switches come in various shapes among which are Toggle switches, limit switches, reed switches, micro switches, mercury switches, rotary switch, slide switch, rocker switch, pneumatic limit switches, selector switches and getting the right switch for the job cam sometimes be tricky and may be better suited by using a relay. Many switches also come with a rubber jacket to make it  waterproof. However that doesn't imply you can submerse the switch in water, it is more a splash proof cover than a water proof one. There are switches suited for using under water, for example a floating mercury switch. when a vat or tank is filled with liquid, the switch would float in the upright position but when the liquid falls below a certain lever  the switch would float upside down and trigger. Perhaps turning on a pump that would fill the tank or vat once again.

Whats a relay?

Having discussed switches you may ask what does switches have to do with relays. The simple answer is, a relay is essentially a remotely controlled switch. Relays are controlled electrically rather than mechanically, hence they're known as electro-mechanical relays. They are commonly used in automotive design, where high current devices can be switched from a cockpit fairly cheaply. In stead of using long lengths of thick high current cable and a substantially heavy duty on-off switch to control a heater or a motor situated some distance from the driver; a small low current switch and a length of thin low current cable and a relay switch with heavy contacts would suffice. Every relays has a solenoid configured as an electromagnet. So when the solenoid is activated by a trigger voltage, the electromagnet pulls a set of heavy duty contacts to make or break a circuit. Relays are versatile and can function as a simple spst switch, or a more advance spdt switch of a dpst switch or a dpdt switch depending on the circuity it needs to control.

Volkswagen Solenoids

Sometimes you may need a switch with more contacts than the best switch you can find, and this is where relays outweigh switches. Relays also cost less than the combines cost of all the switches that it replaces or that can do the job of.  Volkswagen have several relays throughout its electrical system and the most hardworking relay, is the starter relay.  Starter relays form part of the starter, the reasoning, is to keep high current conductors as short as possible. However many cars have a second relay inserted into the fuse panel that powers the starter solenoid. So when you turn the ignition key to start your car, the starter relay contacts in the fuse box sends 12V to the starter solenoid on the starter. This solenoid's contacts throw and sends 12V from the thick battery cable that's connected to one side of the starter solenoid directly to the starter's field coils, causing its armature  to spin. But at exactly the same time the solenoid performs a dual function as it kicks the bendix forward into the ring gear's teeth.  The starter's force of rotation is sufficient to crack the engine and if all's well, the engine with start. 

My EPC light came on

My epc light came on

Virtually every  motoring enthusiasts who owns a Volkswagen Golf TDI  simply loves its torque; its drive, its racy performance, its braking, its fuel economy and especially its manual transmission model. Be that as it may, 6 out of 10 Volkswagen and Audi owners are unhappy about Volkswagen as a whole. Unhappy about their cheating devices, unhappy about the emission scandal, unhappy about the entire VW TDI buy back claims processes, but more specifically unhappy about having to give back the car that they love so much.

According to the 225-page court document that outlines VW’s settlement, which reads,

“At the present time, there are no practical engineering solutions that would, without negative impact to vehicle functions and unacceptable delay, bring the 2.0 Liter Subject Vehicles into compliance with the exhaust emission standards.” 

This is so wrong on so many different levels hence most VW and Audi owners are completely pissed-off -pissed-off at Volkswagen. Event hough most VW TDI enthusiasts haven't returned their cars, they are already missing them, even before it's taken back; all of them very unhappy about it. It's always good to be optimistic about the buyback outcome but pessimistically speaking, VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda owner's are all complaining about their cars, ranging from, 

"My epc light came on and I lost power",  to 

"I got stranded on the side of the highway today for  almost an hour when my EPC light went on",  to 

"The first time it happened, the EPC light turned on and loss of  power lasted for a day and then it went away on it's own",  This is now the third time this happened, the EPC light comes on and then my car just loses power", 

"I took my car to the VW agents for a EPC problem who then said they  found a few error code but they didn't know what was wrong, so they just reset them",  

"Totally disgusted, by the dealer's complete and utter  disregard to accept responsibility for their pathetic  workmanship. They threw a dozen parts at the problem at my cost and the EPC problem is still not solved", 

I've kept track of all the faults on my VW Polo, and it fills a foolscap page.  It ranges  from interior parts falling off, the foot rest lodging itself under the brake pedal whilst driving, the brakes randomly engaging and causing under steer, to continual  creaks from the suspension, the gearbox is crap, not to mention my daily battle with an EPC issue. My Polo's been back to VW a full 58 days during this  year, yet they still haven't fixed all the issues and  as a result I very nearly caused 2 accidents due to  the on-going braking issue, and the EPC going  into limp mode on an on-ramp,  

I've spent more than a  year trying to solve  the problem “EPC” light problem, I've already  replaced  the Acceleration pedal, Two sensors located  under the engine, Cambelt kit, Throttle Body, all the  injectors and the ignition coils and the ECU,   but the light still regularly comes on,  

The VW guaranteed future Value a Rip-Off! I have never  been so dissatisfied with help from customer service and  will NEVER EVER purchase another Volkswagen nor recommend it to anyone I know, because of the shoddy  way we were treated. The staff working in VW credit and financial are rude and disorganized, no wonder they losing all their customers.They charged me for items covered by the warranty.

And the list goes on. These are only a few of the nice clients  I wouldn't want to repeat what some of the other "not so nice" clients said about Volkswagen and their cars, especially about the EPC light and limp mode. Electronic power Control (EPC) has become part of every VW, Audi, Skoda and Seat owners vocabulary, yet few understand what it really is. So allow me to put you in the picture.

Electronic Power Control

The EPC warning light is just a regular warning indicator light, much like your handbrake light or your oil indicator light.  The handbrake light just tells you that the hand break is engaged, alternatively that it hasn't been released. Likewise the oil light is a warning indicator that alerts the driver to the fact that the oil is low. In the very same vain the EPC warning  light is just an indication that something awry has happened in your Volkswagen's torque system, which is a sub-circuit of the Electronic Power Control Circuit.  

So what exactly is the torque system ? you may ask. Well is consists of various interlinked components, where the functionality of one is subject to another. These components are your  Volkswagen's entire drive-by-wire system, incorporating the  accelerator pedal, the throttle body, the cruise control, the traction control, the breaking system, the fuel pressure system, the knock sensors and the ECU, along with the wiring harnesses that inter-connects all these components. The wiring harness is a safer substitute for accellerator cable in all drive-by-wire systems.  

The accelerator pedal

The accelerator pedal for that matter, has 2 independent potentiometers inside a module that's permanently bonded to the pedal itself. These 2 potentiometers are call senders by Volkswagen and known as G79 and G185, but I will use these terms interchangeably.  This module is connected to the ECU via a 6 wire harness, essentially 3 wires per senders. Before, I continue, let me tell you what a potentiometer is, if you not familiar with the term. Another name for a potentiometer is variable resistor or a rheostat. It is most commonly used as rotary the control knob on a radio, with which to control the level of its volume. It is also commonly used in  the bedroom light dimmer to adjust the level of light needed. 

Each sender has 3 pins, 1 for each end of its resistor and 1 pin for its wiper. All three pins of each sender are connected to 3 pins specific pins of the ECU. The ECU sends each sender a high and a low voltage across their resistors and receives a difference fed back voltage from each sender's wiper. The 2 wiper feedback voltages are referenced and inverted to one another and translated by the ECU as how much the accelerator pedal is depressed.  Should  the ECU loose either of the wiper inputs for even a fraction of a second, the ECU limp mode program will execute, the EPC light will come on and the engine wont rev higher that 2000 rpm any longer. When my EPC light came on, I traced it back to a fault/ intermittent accelerator pedal due to error codes P1630  to P1634 and P1639.

The throttle body

Much like the accelerator module, the throttle body also has 2 integrated potentiometers called angle sensors known as G186 and G187. They inform the ECU how wide open or closed its butterfly is. The throttle body also has a built-in stepper motor known as an actuator. The ECU essentially translates the accelerator pedal position to a voltage / pulse train that drives the stepper motor, that in turn opens and closes the throttle body butterfly, controlling  air flow between air filter and intake manifold.  In a nutshell, a remote control system that mimics the operation of an accelerator cable. If for any reason the throttle body is removed or dismantled, it would be necessary to perform the adaptation procedure. When my EPC light came on, I traced it back to a  throttle body problem with error codes P1171 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Implausible Signal.

The cruise control

When the cruise control is enabled, a signal is sent to the ECU to this effect, which in turn sends the necessary voltage / pulse train to the throttle body stepper motor to keep it steady and received feedback from G186 and G187 to further control the process., ignoring the accelerator pedal until the brake is applied or receiving a signal change from the accelerator pedal. Should something go awry in this process, cruise control will be canceled, the ECU limp mode program will execute, the EPC light will come on and the engine wont rev higher that 2000 rpm any longer. When my EPC light came on, I traced it back to a  cruise control switch problem with error codes  00895 - Cruise Control Switch (E45) Defective.