Showing posts with label accelerator pedal. Show all posts
Showing posts with label accelerator pedal. Show all posts

Friday, January 4, 2019

Volkswagen

Volkswagen

Volkswagen cars are extremely popular. In fact, they are so  popular that Volkswagen as a brand is the favourite car of many South Africans, besides being the most popular car sold on the South African market. Volkswagen cars are also popular elsewhere and are sold in virtually every country throughout the world; but its popularity and its global acclaimed robustness doesn't make it indestructible. 

Volkswagen cars give problems, in fact they are more troublesome now, than they've ever been. The reason, the ODB-II system with its ever increasing number of ECUs.  This system has several features that means well, like controlling toxic emissions, like giving you the best fuel efficiency;  and is capable of detecting minor issues or glitches before they actually occur, among so many other beneficial features.

However, like every coin has two sides, and as there are always two side to every story, there is also a reaction to every action.   Meaning for every beneficial feature of OBD-II there is a detrimental feature to OBD-II. OBD-II is essentially a computer system with a host of additional computer modules remotely placed through the body of the car, some of which have an effect on the Engine ECU. 

These modules or sub-ECUs oversee various features, like an airbag controller module/ECU that supervises the airbag. This module is connected to crash sensors placed in strategic positions in the car, that triggers when a crash occurs and ensure that the airbag is inflated within the required time frame. Then there is also an immobilizer module/ECU that supervises the starting process ensuring the correct code from the key transponder chip corresponds with its randomly generated code. There is also an ABS Brakes module, a Gateway module, a Steering Assist module, an Instrument Module, a Central Convenience module, a Radio module, to mention but a few. All of which are potentially sources of problems.

If we only look at the Airbag and the Immobilizer modules/ECUs, both will impede driveability and the starting of the car, by influencing the Engine ECU. If the Engine ECU doesn't received the expected signal from either, it would refuse to start the engine. The Engine ECU is the heart of the ODD-II and normally sits in the engine compartment or inside the car under the dashboard. All three these modules/ECUs mentioned, sometimes also referred to as nodes, are in within a meter of on another but here's the downside. 

To get them to sing in harmony they are connected together by a wiring harness. This wiring harness plugs into each and every node in the car, and also share a common twisted-pair wire-connection  called a bus which is terminate at each of its ends with 120 Ω resistors. This bus can be either Controller Area Network (CAN) or  Local Interconnect Network (LIN) or even FlexRay. Each module also has a power supply and an earth connection. All of these wire connections are potentially sources of problems.

The average car can have anything between 5 and 100 modules/ECUs, some ECUs have as few as six connections and others as many as 80 or 94 or even more. Each of these physical connections are prone to corrosion, metal fatigue and physical flexing due to suspension vibration and is a source of future problems. Some ECU's earth connection is solely made through body contact and if it looses contact due to vibration or water ingress, it will undoubtedly cause an error or errors. 

These errors are stored in the ECU's non-volatile memory which can at times be quite cryptic. I can say that without doubt that every "automotive technician" has misinterpreted DTCs and replaced unnecessary components in the process. Even returned cars to the owners claiming that they solved the problem but didn't, they were just under the misapprehension that they did.

If any connection out of this glut of connections becomes intermittent for some reason or the other, it would be like trying to find a needle in a haystack and there are so many "automotive technician" that have never touched a needle nor even seen a haystack, let alone find a needle in a haystack. Be that as it may, one of the advantages of OBD-II is that it increases the likelihood of a DIY fix, providing the fixer is fairly dexterous and have some electronic and mechanical knowledge and have access to a diagnostic scanner.

A fairly common plug connection that goes intermittent, is the one that connects to the throttle body. It supplies the voltage to the stepper motor that controls the throttle butterfly valve. This plug also sends feedback to the ECU so that it knows how wide open or close the valve is. So many mechanics insist on stripping the throttle body due to a throttle body DTC and claim after cleaning it, the problem was solved. However a few days later the error would be back. A word of caution, Don't suspect replaceable parts especially if it has less that 100 000 km on its clock. Exhaust the possibility that it's a possible wiring harness problem before replacing expensive items because they can never be returned to the agents after its been installed.

Another intermittent connection it the 6 pin plug that interfaces with the accelerator pedal. This is a common source of the dreaded EPC problem. In many cases, a squirt of electro cleaner may solve this problem. That's to say until it's triggered by something else. It's worth while to check the voltage supply stability and ground impedance between the 6 pin plug and the ECU. Remembering that the pedal's earth connection is grounded inside the ECU and the ECU is grounded to the body or chassis and not the engine. In some cases, the ECU will function normally because its metal casing is not earthed.

Also, don't be tempted to earth the pedal earth directly to the body when there is a  significant resistance reading. Rather replace that portion of the wiring harness that may have gone high resistive. Offset ground connections and ground loops can cause voltage drops and magnetic impedance which are major causes of noise hum, and interference in computer systems (ECU). So don't alter the the existing ground connections because it could introduce issues you've never experienced before.

Thursday, June 23, 2016

WHAT IS A VW EPC WARNING LIGHT

What Is a VW EPC Warning Light

The EPC warning light is an instrument cluster based LED found on all Volkswagen, Audi, Seat and Skoda vehicles fitted with a drive-by-wire system and EPC stands for Electronic Power Control. However the EPC warning light is not exclusive to these VAG cars, most other motor manufacturers also have them, since it's legislated to be part of the OBDII system. This EPC light when lit displays the letters EPC and primarily warns the driver that there is problems in the engine's torque system - (acceleration system). The reason why the EPC turns on, problem could be many, among which are the vehicle's knock sensors, its throttle system, its cruise control, its mass air flow system, its engine speed verification system or any of the other associated systems that cooperate in the drive-by-wire schema. 

When this EPC light comes on, the vehicle’s throttle valve (butterfly) may be limited in order to protect the engine from damage. It prevents the engine from revving above 2000rpm. This is known as limp mode and the ECU permits just sufficient power to drive the vehicle to a service center for repairs. To remedy the problem, the vehicle’s ECU should be scanned with an automotive diagnostic too, in order to extract the DTC's related to the torque problem.  Cars with an accelerator cable are also fitted with an EPC light but the ECU software is quite different, yet the overall principal remains the same.

All Volkswagen (VAG) vehicles have a whole array of dashboard warning lights in their instrument panels, specifically designed to alert the driver to any vehicle malfunctions or problems. In fact so does all most modern day automobiles. Having said that, it is only a matter of time before these lights start lighting up. Invariably and inevitably all cars will breakdown at sometime or the other but its nice to be warned about a mechanical problem before it actually occurs. For example, having a low coolant level light or an low engine oil-level light flash at you, accompanied by an audio alert is a blessing because complete loss of either coolant or engine oil could result in a very expensive repair. 

The one warning light that puzzles most drivers is the VW EPC warning light. Driver often ask, what is the VW EPC warning light? Like I've mentioned above, it is a bright yellow dashboard light with the letters EPC inscribed in bold.it  When lights-up to draws your attaention to a potential malfunction in the EPC system. When it lights up whilst driving and the trouble is related to a safety issue, the car will more than likely go into limp mode. This may sound quite serious but in most cases it's not. There are several reasons why EPC Dashboard Warning Light turns on, but through a process of elimination the cause can be tracked down fairly easily. 

The Engine Speed Sensor is  known to cause the EPC light to turn on. The engine speed sensor is a proximity magnetic transducer counting the revolutions of the flywheel / crankshaft and sends a steady stream of pulses to the ECU. So when this stream of data is interrupted for whatsoever reason for only a fraction of a second, the ECU  detects this and turns on the EPC light and cuts power to the engine. It does this to protect the engine from damage. 

If you have a scan tool, check for DTC errors. The following error code, 17745 /P1337, 17746 / P1338, 17747 / P1339 and 17748 / P1340 are the troubles codes that provides a  tell tail sign that the engine speed sensor is either loose or faulty, hence the car's engine cuts-out whilst driving and the speedometer is inoperative.  But in some cases the engine will start again. When this symptoms repeats itself often, you should know it is time to replace that pesky engine speed sensor.

The Accelerator Pedal itself is often the main culprit that causes EPC problems. A telltale sign is that the engine idles a lot faster than it aught to. To verify this, physical pull the accelerator pedal away from the floor board while the car is idling. If it reduces the engine's revs back to normal, then it is time to replace it, because the potentiometers that's built into the the accelerator pedal, have gone faulty. Accelerator pedal problems are numerous and the following DTC, 16504 / P0120, 16505 / P0121, 16506 / P0122, 16507 / P0123, 18038 / P1630, 18039 / P1631, 18040 / P1632, 18041 / P1633, 18042 / P1634, are linked to accelerator pedal errors. 

Mass air flow sensor is another engine component that can cause the EPC light to turn on. Cleaning the  mass air flow sensor with compressed air does often solve the problem but if the issue persists, its time to replace mass air flow sensor. But before changing it, check to see if any of the rubber hoses in its vicinity isn't perished. An leak in Air Intake System wil allowing air unmonitored to enter the intake which will throw a P2279 / 15093 error or a P0068 / 15101 error.


The Throttle body is by far the most common cause of an EPC problem though in many cases it is not the throttle body that's at fault but rather that it the needs to be recalibrated (adaptation). The scan codes like P2135 / P2136 / P2137 / P2138 / P2139  and P2140, will give a  good idea as to whether or not the throttle body require replacement.  But in many cases it turns out to be  wiring harness issue. The plugs that connects the throttle drive motor and the throttle position sensors is fairly troublesome ad should be checked before throttle is replace.

The Brake light switch can also cause the EPC light to come on because the torque control circuit uses the brake light signal as a ECU input signal when the car decelerates.  

The Injectors and the Ignition Coils can also cause the EPC light to turn on. I've heard that an incorrect spark gap on the plugs can also cause an EPC problem but haven't experienced it yet.  Driving with very little gasoline in the tank can also cause the EPC light to turn on because the high pressure fuel pump may lose pressure which then notifies the ECU to inhibit the torque circuit and switch on the EPC light and make the car go into limp mode.

I've experienced the Knock Sensor turn on the EPC light. Spirited driving also turns on the EPC light.

So as you can see there are several things that can cause an EPC fault.  This is not a complete list of EPC problems but as new ones are identified, I will post them.  The following questions prompted me to write a synopsis of what an EPC light is!

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What is an EPC light? What is an EPC warning light? What is an EPC light on Volkswagen? What Is the VW EPC Warning Light? What is the EPC light on a Volkswagen Jetta? What is EPC on a Volkswagen? What does it mean if the EPC warning light comes on in a Volkswagen? Volkswagen - EPC Warning Light, What does an EPC light on the dash of a Polo match car mean? EPC light came on and lost all power. 

The EPC warning symbol came on today while driving. EPC Light and stalling. EPC light came on and can't start the engine. EPC light on, what does it mean ? EPC light and engine check light. EPC warning light. Epc light. EPC + power loss/no boost.  Do not exceed 4000 rpm  EPC light.   EPC error where the car shakes terribly.  ESP EPC & Engine Light ON.  EPC Light and Stalling. Polo bluemotion 58 plate and a yellow engine light came on. I read the manual but still not sure something to do with the exhaust??

A little help as my wife needs the car for work.2002 1.6L GOLF, EPC light on. POWER LOSS An EPC light will appear on the dash randomly whilst driving. Once it is on, there is a noticeable loss in power and it stays this way until the... volkswagon polo epc warning.step by step guide to turn light off please, preferably without visiting expensive vw garage. Have diagnostic computer to see code! EPC light came on and engine will not rev higher. I have a vw polo and the EPC warning light has come on what should i do? Orange light 03 vw polo. VW Polo Map sensor fault code idling poorly. EPC light on my dashboard 2001 vw polo. It has something to do with the engine management, retarding the power of the engine.

Wednesday, July 29, 2015

DIAGNOSING EPC LIGHT PROBLEMS

DIAGNOSING EPC LIGHT PROBLEMS

VW Polo EPC light goes on and the car won't rev. Audi MIL and EPC light turn on and car goes into lip mode. SEAT suddenly has no acceleration yet has maximum of 1200 RPM. SKODA accelerator problem, won't rev. Audi EPC light on and transmission is locked in park.
Audi and VW crankshaft position sensors.

Question?

Hello mate...
My car was running really sweet when suddenly I'm having throttle issues! I was going to my girls house when all of a sudden, smack bang in the middle of the road, I have no acceleration. The car just cut the revs into idle and causing the EPC light on the dashboard to light up. I managed to get it off the road out of the traffic. Several attempts later to get her to rev up but  nope, absolutely nothing. So I phoned the towing service and the dude  checked under the bonnet to make sure everything was in place so he disconnected the battery for a while so it would reset the computer. It still wouldn't rev, so he hauled it onto the truck and brought it to my house. My neighbour Freddy has a VCDS which he plugged in and these fault codes showed up. I'm desperately in need of help because I have no idea how  to  solve this problem?

Chassis Type: 6K - Seat Ibiza/Cordoba
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 25 45 56
Mileage: 97850km/60801miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine

Part No: 6K0 906 032
Component: 1.8L R4/20VT SEA 0002
Coding: 11500
Shop #: WSC 78904

5 Faults Found:

18047 - Accelerator Position Sensor 1/2 (G79/G185): Implausible Signal
P1639 - 35-00 - -
18039 - Accelerator Position Sensor (G79): Signal too High
P1631 - 35-00 - -
18042 - Accelerator Position Sensor 2 (G185): Signal too High
P1634 - 35-00 - -
17950 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Implausible Signal
P1542 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17581 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too High
P1173 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Answer!

Hay George.This is quite interesting that both your accelerator potentiometers and both your throttle body potentiometers are acting up at the same time. Normally I would say that your accelerator pedal needs to be replaced if only G79/G185 flags repeated DTCs. Alternatively say that your throttle body needs  cleaning and adaptation if G187/G188 flags repeated DTCs. But this is certainly not the case though both these circuits are notorious for "No Throttle Response", limp mode and turning on the EPC light.  However to me it looks more like the voltage supply line to both devices is acting up, that it's intermittent.  Since the throttle and the accelerator are each connected directly to the same control module (ECU) I'm tempted to say that the ECU plug is probably loose or corroded or the fuse holder that supplies the ECU with terminal 30 (12V unswitched) and the relay that supplies terminal  15 (12V switched) needs to be checked for proper contact and corrosion. What I am willing to say is that you have a wiring harness problem, so check continuity between the ECU and the accelerator pedal 6 pin plug and the ECU and the Throttle body 6 pin plug. Make certain to do adaptation afterwards and check throttle valve control in group  060“ (G187/G188),  and especially 62 (G187/G188 & G79/G185), and 63 (Kick-down) and if you have a cruise control group 66 as well.


Question?

I'm Renshaw and I have an Audi A4 1.8T. When I started my car from cold, the EPC light came on and the engine just stalled. Made a couple more attempts to start but engine just cranks and  wouldn't start. After a while I tried  again and it started just fine and it drove fine. The following day  I couldn't start the engine again. So like before I waited a while and it started fine and I drove all week without any EPC problems, until this morning while standing in peak hour traffic my car just died.  After a few tries the car finally started but while I was driving both the EPC and the MIL (check engine light) came on, the engine lost power and was idling at 1200 RPM. This happened a few time over the past month and I'm really loosing my patient with my Audi A4.  So when it happened again I limped to the service agents  who got the 2 DTC errors:  P0321 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance and P0322 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal, but they could get the car to switch off like it did with me. Something like the toothache goes away when you get to the dentist. Anyway, I've search the Internet forums for a  EPC problem similar to mine but found nothing. I still don't have any idea what's going on. Can you please help me and I would be very appreciative and thank you.


Answer!

Hi Renshaw, thanks for your question. The problem you describing is fairly common on Audi which normally flags any or all of the following DTCs - P0320, P0321, P0322 and  P0323  at the same time. This is undoubtedly or rather more often than not caused by your Engine Speed (RPM) sensor signal (crankshaft sensor) that is out of phase. Bear in mind that your car has a DIS and not a mechanical distributor which is normally driven by a gear on the camshaft. This implies that your camshaft / crankshaft have embedded  magnets that energizes  a hall sensor (crankshaft sensor) or an inductive sensor mounted on the cylinder block which  measures crankshaft speed (interval), that provides the engine speed signal to the ECU. It also doubles-up as the signal that determines the time and duration of the ignition (spark) as well as injector timing. Depending on the model, the crankshaft sensor is next to the oil filter. Crankshaft position sensor (G28) failure is also common on the new VW Polo the new Jetta. 

NB!
If you need help with your EPC problem or an explanation of your diagnostic scan and willing to share the findings with fellow Vag owners, feel free to link to this post and upload  your question and a scan of your car. Not every problem can be dealt since there are a fair amount of overlap / common problems, but I will try my very best to answer as many as possible.

Thursday, June 11, 2015

AUDI EPC LIGHT PROBLEMS


AUDI EPC LIGHT

It is common knowledge that EPC light problems have been haunting Audi drivers incessantly for the past few years, announcing itself on Audi A1,  Audi A2, Audi A3,  Audi A4,  Audi A5, Audi A6,  Audi A7,  Audi A8,  Audi Q3,  Audi Q5, Audi Q7, the Audi RS4,  Audi RS6, Audi RS8, Audi R8, Audi S4, Audi S6, Audi S8 and Audi  TTs even before they're run-in. Several Audi owners are dismayed that EPC problems present themselves on virtually new cars. 

In fact, EPC problems pop-up at any time, on any Audi new or old fitted with X-by-Wire technology. Any Audi  without a throttle cable, is naturally fitted with a full Drive-by-Wire system which is supervised by the Electronic Control Circuit (EPC)  / Electronic Throttle Control (ETC)  that turns on the dashboard mounted EPC (K132) indicator light when it detects a malfunction, then registers Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)  in the ECM memory.  Even though the EPC light turns on exclusively for  non-emission related faults, it does however turn on along with the MIL for emission related faults. 

The EPC  / ETC is a torque monitoring circuit and monitors for torque discrepancies and torque inefficiencies and when it detects one, sends the vehicle into emergency running mode (limp mode). These are prevalent when towing, when driving up an incline, when in manual mode, when in cruise control, after spirited driving, etc, and may even cause the ABS, ESP   lights to came on. Some drivers, assume  that it's happening more frequently over time and others are concerned that the EPC trouble are going to get worse because of its  randomness. But this is not the case. 

Bear in mind that once the EPC light is on, no other EPC related fault is going to make it glow any brighter. Once it's on, it's stays on even if the battery is disconnected, and it will come back on when you reconnect. However, the ECU will monitor the EPC circuit and if the same error does not occur in three successive trips of at least 7 kilometers, it will erase the DTC and it would seem as if it never happened, until the next time.  These are safely features specific to Drive by Wire systems and their workings can be viewed in the adaptation groups when retrieving errors with a scan tool.

ADAPTATION GROUPS PERTAINING TO EPC

Group 60 -- Throttle Valve Adjuster / Adaptation Epc-system
Group 61 -- Epc-system / Throttle Valve Adjuster (System 1) 
Group 62 -- Epc-system / Throttle Valve Adjuster (System 2)
Group 63 -- Kickdown Function
Group 66 -- Cruise Control Status

AUDI EPC LIGHT RELATED DTC

18039 / P1631 - Accelerator Position Sensor (G79): Signal too High 
18041 / P1633 - Accelerator Position Sensor 2 (G185) Signal too Low
18042 / P1634 - Accelerator Position Sensor 2 (G185): Signal too High
18047 / P1639 - Accelerator Position Sensor 1/2 (G79/G185): Implausible Signal 
 00777 - Accelerator Position Sensor (G79): Implausible Signal

No response from the throttle even with your foot flat on the accelerator pedal.. There are two potentiometers fitted to the accelerator pedal which are monitored by the ECU and when it it detects an intermittent signal from one pot, it turns on the EPC light then uses the second pot for acceleration but it is limited. When both pots detected as are intermittent, EPC light goes on and engine only runs at idle speed. When this error occurs, turn the engine off, stomp on the accelerator a few times through its full travel.  It could just be specks of dust that settled on the one of the potentiometer (variable resistors) tracks that stymied the ECU for a few millisecond or so. I this happens often and thereafter, presenting a 18047 / P1639 or 18039 / P1631 or 18042 / P1634 or 18041 / P1633 then consider replacing the accelerator pedal.

No response from the throttle even with your foot flat on the accelerator pedal. There are also two redundant potentiometers in the throttle body that determines the throttle valve angle and it has three modes of failure. One for when the valve angle sensor fails, one for when throttle valve actuator (motor) malfunctions and one for when throttle valve position is cannot be recognized by the ECU. When this happens  the ECU shuts off the voltage supply to the actuator, causing the throttle valve to defaults to mechanical stop position and the engine speed is limited to 1200 RPM. If any of the DTC fault below show up in your scan, check the 6 pin plug interfacing with the throttle bodyIt would be best to redo adaptation thereafter before thinking of replacing the throttle body. 

000289 / P0121- Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Implausible Signal - Intermittent
16506 / P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too Low - Intermittent
17987 / P1579 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Adaptation Not Started - Intermittent
17976 / P1568 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Mechanical Failure 
17972 / P1564 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Under-Voltage during Basic Setting 
17952 / P1544 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large - Intermittent
16606 / P0222 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle (G188): Signal Too Low - Intermittent
000547 / P0223 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle (G188):Signal Too High - Intermittent
17581 / P1173 -  Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too High 
18042 / P1634 - Accelerator Position Sensor 2 (G185): Signal too High 

You have difficulty starting but eventually does start but idles very rough, bucks and surges when you attempt to drive it. The   EPC, MIL (Check engine light)  and ESP lights come on. This is most likely caused by the Injectors  N30-N33 or the Ignition Coils N (1st cylinder), N128 (2nd cylinder), N158 (3rd cylinder) and N163 (4th cylinder) since both the Injectors and Ignition coils causes exactly the same symptoms. It also   exhibit the following DTCs.

17633 / P1225 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30): Short to Ground  - - Intermittent
17634 / P1226 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31): Short to Ground  - - Intermittent
17635 / P1227 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32): Short to Ground  - - Intermittent
17636 / P1228 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33): Short to Ground  - - Intermittent

MORE EPC PROBLEMS

J757 Engine Component Power Supply Relay cause loss of  high-pressure and turns on EPC. ESP and MIL lights.

N75 Solenoid valve for charge pressure limitation and turns on the  EPC and MIL lights but shown no symptoms of failure except go into limp mode. 


Audi A1, Audi A2, Audi A3, Audi A4, Audi A5, Audi A6, Audi A7, Audi A8, Audi Q3, Audi Q5, Audi Q7, the Audi RS4, Audi RS6, Audi RS8, Audi R8, Audi S4, Audi S6, Audi S8 and Audi  TTs EPC Problems.

Saturday, June 6, 2015

KNOCK SENSOR

VAG KNOCK SENSOR K1 AND THE EPC LIGHT

VW, Seat, Skoda  and Audi Knock sensors have become quite notorious for sending the car into "limp mode". Limp mode is a safety feature on all Drive by Wire vehicles, implying an EPC-electronic power control-but no accelerator cable. EPC implies torque control. By analogy,  its something like a horse that gets spooked and takes off at high speed and out of control with its rider unable to rein him in,  or a frayed accelerator cable that becomes stuck while driving at high speed. That's just a recipe for disaster. Imagine stepping on the brake pedal but the high revs of the engine just forces the car forward, smoke pouring from the brake pads to the point that the become glazed and  no longer has any effect. Pushing the transmission into neutral isn't an option because without the load, the engine is destined to blow, perhaps even push a piston  through the side of the engine lock.  Drive by wire prevents this from happening and cuts power to the powertrain if it detects a fault that puts the engine at risk. Knock reacts somewhat similar to backfire since both are due to detonation and pre-ignition-incomplete combustion.

Detonation is a common problem associated with lean fuel mixture -non stichometric-and torque. The EPC light is often triggered on an incline when the torque is insufficient to pull the car uphill when in an inappropriate gear. Knock sensors can detect combustion knocks in individual cylinders. Knock sensor 1 (G61) senses cylinders 1 & 2, and knock sensor 2 (G66) senses cylinders  3 & 4. To prevent combustion knock, the ECU cylinder selective knock control overrides the electronic control of the ignition timing by retarding the timing, but may not be unable to if the Fuel Octane is too low causing secondary combustion in the cylinder. Knock sensor 1 (G61) is known to trigger EPC light and activate limp mode, hence it needs to be checked for flush engine contact and correct torque. DTC  P0171 and P0174 could show up in scans.

The ECU calculates engine ignition timing based on input signals from Throttle Position (TP) Sensor G79 and  Accelerator Pedal Position G185, the  Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor G28,  the load signal from Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor G70, the signal from the Throttle Valve Control Module J338,  the Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor G62, both Knock Sensors G61, G66 (additional G198 & G199 on V6, W8 & W12 engines) and signals from Camshaft Position Sensors G40, G163, (additionally G300, G301 on V6, W8 & W12 engines) When the engine is below 40 degrees  celsius knock sensors signals are not used to make timing decisions. What this implies is that when the EPC light turns on  when the engine is still cold, the knock sensors are not guilty , neither  the the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor G70 nor the Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor G62 since whilst idling, have nothing to do with torque. That leaves the Accelerator Pedal with G79 & G185, the Throttle  Control body senders G187 & G188,  the  Engine Speed Sensor G28,  Camshaft Position Sensors G40 & G163 as the EPC limp mode culprits. However sensors are fairly reliable but the wiring  harnesses  are  more likely to be the cause of the problem, see wiring in Audi.

Fuel pressure regulator valve N276, the wastegate bypass regulator valve N75 and the  Ignition Coil N, N128, N158, N163 and its Power Output Stage N122 are three  more EPC culprits. Injectors N30-N33 can also cause the EPC light to turn on and cause car to go into "limp mode" but also causes the engine not to run smoothly. Once again before condemning the sensors or actuators, check the wiring harnesses to them.



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EPC light has just come on and doesn't go away
The EPC light came on and I had sluggish power
The EPC warning symbol came on today while driving.
The EPC warning light has been triggering fairly regularly
The warning light EPC does not go out or comes on or flashes
Occasionally the EPC light comes on
EPC Light comes on at 4000 rpm - clears on restart
EPC warning light?? 15 Nov 2011
EPC Light comes on at 4000 rpm - clears on restart 3 Mar 2011
My EPC and CEL (Check Engine Lamp) is on
My EPC light is now light on the dash
My EPC light goes on/off on a daily basis
My check engine light and EPC light is on
My Audi's epc light came on this morning
My epc light and check engine light came on
My EPC light came on then I tried to start the car but nothing happened
What is the EPC warning light?
what's the mean of epc light, when it's come on ?
When I start the car the EPC light on the dashboard stay on
when epc light's come on, car loosing power
What is epc warning light mean on a seat ibiza
Check Engine Light & EPC Light came on
When you try and accelerate the EPC light comes on and the throttle cuts out
Why does the epc light keep coming on in my audi a4
A4 with EPC light, stalling at dangerous times
Audi Q7 EPC engine management warning light
I have EPC warning light and acceleration problems
I'm having a problem with the EPC light on my 2003 Audi A4 2.0FSI
I keep getting the epc light come on
j'ai le voyant EPC qui reste allumé
Having EPC problems with a skoda fabia 1.4
Seat Leon 52 plate EPC light
Seat ibiza 1.2 EPC and Engine light on
Seat Ibiza EPC light on and acceleration problem?
Fabia EPC Light on
Seat arosa EPC light?
How do I reset a Seat Arosa EPC light?

The above EPC errors are common to Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda and Seat. The  VW, the 4motion, the Amarok, the new Beetle, the Bora, the Caddy, the Corrado, the CC, the Eos, the Fox, the Golf, the Jetta, the Kombi, the Lavida, the Lupo, the Passat, the Polo, the Phaeton, the Routan, the Santana the Scirocco, the Sharan, the Tiguan, the Touran, the Touareg, the Transporter, the Vento , the Up and lastly the Vivo. The Audi A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, A6, A7, A8, the Q3, Q5, Q7, the RS4, RS6, RS8, the R8, the S4, S6, S8, Audi TT. The  Seat Alhambra, the Altea, the Arosa, the Cordoba, the Ibiza, the Inca, the Leon, the Mii and the Toledo,  Skoda  Felicia, the Octavia, the Fabia, the Superb, the Roomster, the Yeti, the Rapid and the Citigo. The Audi RS-6, A4 Fsi, Audi A4, Audi S3, Audi TT, Audi R8, audi a4 2.8 quattro 5 speed, Skoda fabia, seat leon, seat ibiza, Avant RS 2, Coupé, Audi A3 Mk1, Volkswagen Golf Mk4, Volkswagen New Beetle, Volkswagen Bora/Jetta Mk4, SEAT León Mk1, SEAT Toledo Mk2, Škoda Octavia Mk1,  TFSI, FSI, GTI, TDI, 

Thursday, April 9, 2015

EPC


ELECTRONIC POWER CONTROL

EPC LIGHT

The EPC fault indicator lamp is very well known among the VAG community, and for those not yet familiar with the EPC light;   it's an  amber symbol in the instrument panel displaying the uppercase letters EPC, which is the abbreviation for Electronic Power Control. This EPC lamp is often referred to by automotive technicians as K132.  EPC is synonymous to Drive-by-Wire which means that the vehicle concerned is fitted with an electrically controlled throttle valve. Restated, the old mechanical throttle cable has now been replaced by an electronic throttle control system. Vag vehicles fitted with  Motronic Engine Management version 5.9 ECUs  and older, still use a cable operated throttle interfaced with  a Throttle Control Module (TCM) and appear to be less susceptible to EPC related problems but not immune. Whereas vag vehicles fitted with Motronic Engine Management version 7.5 coupled to a Drive-by-Wire system appear to be somewhat more susceptible to EPC related problems. This is because ECUs with MEM 7.5  was specifically designed to handle the new torque-oriented  EPC function.   

However, the  bright orange EPC fault indicator light has absolutely no effect on the functionality of the Throttle Control System as a whole. When the ignition is initially turned on, it is perfectly normal for the EPC light to come on briefly,  then switch off again, if and only if it detects no Throttle Control System DTCs in memory and also determines that the TCS is working OK.  This ECU self diagnostic test takes all of 3 seconds. But, should a problem exist, the EPC light will remain on, since it needs to inform you of a DTC stored in memory  and that any additional TCS faults won't make it glow any brighter. (NB! There is no other visual way of showing you that there are several EPC errors other than with a scan tool). 


DRIVE-BY-WIRE

The Drive-by-Wire system consists of  an accelerator pedal module, that houses  two accelerator position senders, a throttle control module that also housing two position sensors,  a throttle
valve drive servo motor, an EPC light,  an ECU and of course the wiring to connect them together. 


THROTTLE CONTROL

The two accelerator position senders are a fixed part of the accelerator pedal and in reality are potentiometers. They get their supply voltage from the ECU that is capable of component diagnostics and constantly monitors its inputs. When the ECU detects that one potentiometer signal failed, it sends a DTC to the memory and turns on the EPC light then switches to the second potentiometer. It uses the accelerator pedal input voltage and translates its position  into an output voltage that drives the throttle body servo motor that controls the butterfly valve. The two throttle two position sensors, sends feedback to the ECU. Once again theses sensors are potentiometers, also monitored by the ECU and as above, if one potentiometer fails it sends a DTC to memory, turns on the EPC light then switches to the other potentiometer, but not necessarily in that order.


WIRING

The CAN Bus wire pair for the Powertrain  are Orange/Black and Orange/ Brown but there is also a supply wire (Red) and an earth (Black) wire, to each of the Drive-by-Wire components. Each of these wires have a plug and each of these plugs have at least four wires. Do the math and you could have 8 plugs - 32 male contacts pluging into 32 female contacts. The accelerator pedal potentiometers fault finding procedure.  Any of these contacts could be intermittent, all of which will cause the  EPC warning light to light up and if any of the Drive-by-Wire components fail will do the same. Considering cars drive on bumpy roads, withstand extremes engine heat and freezing temperatures at night besides rainwater that could find its way into the wiring harness. All of which could contribute to intermittent electrical connections.


REPAIRING EPC FAULTS

Repairing EPC faults are easy but needs to be systematic, because everything that can cause the problem needs to be thoroughly investigates and exonerated before the next item is suspect. Before any major or expensive components are replaced, check the wiring. Check the wiring, Check the Wiring.  Suspect the potentiometers first since they suffer from wear and tear. 


POTENTIOMETERS

A potentiometer is essentially a potential divider. Restated, its a three legged device, with a fixed high potential (voltage) and a fixed low potential (voltage)  at two of its legs. The third leg outputs a variable potential (voltage) less than the higher potential and more than the lower potential.  A potentiometer is normally made of bakelite or fibreglass with a carbon track attached to it.  The variable output makes contact with slider that runs on this carbon track. This sider/carbon contact isn't very good because its a sprung loader pressure contact. Besides when the carbon track wears through which is just a matter of time because it is constantly at work when you accelerate. It is going to give you the EPC fault guaranteed.

Feel free to upload your VWSKODASEAT & AUDI scans.

Wednesday, April 8, 2015

EPC NIGHTMARE

EPC WARNING LIGHT

Over the past 3 years I have had some  13775 EPC information requests. That's roughly 4500 request per year, each and everyone of  them EPC related.  I manages to help several Vag car owners with their EPC problems however many were unable to give me the  DTC codes that could be causing the EPC problems. So, If you have a scan of your car feel free to upload it to my blog, I will analyse it and post the answer for everyones benefit.  I have found that the commonest EPC problem is the accelerator pedal potentiometers. However they cannot be purchased as a separate item. You have to buy the complete accelerator pedal. There is a plug that is attached to  the accelerator pedal, the plastic bit where the yellow stickers are, contains the pots.  If you are having EPC problems you are not alone. Read some of your fellow Vag car owners woes.




NO EPC DTC CODES

What is EPC on a Volkswagen? My car loses power all the time. If  I turn the car off and leave it for a while,  the problem goes away. This happened to be a couple of months ago, and  I was forced to take  it to a VW dealer.  They had no idea what to do. The car idles  really badly and the EPC light is on from the moment I start it,  besides now the check engine light is also on. I'm  thinking about replacing the throttle body but it cost about is $600. That's crazy man.

TOO VAGUE & NO EPC DTC CODES

My EPC light came on and car lost all power, so now I am having the most weirdest problems. I got stuck on the freeway, my EPC light came on and I had to pull onto the shoulder of the road because I lost acceleration. Disconnected and reconnected the negative battery terminal to reset the system, then she was driving fine. Took it to VW guy but he has no idea what an EPC problem is or at least he wanted me to  pay him  first before would help. He wants $85 an hour.


NO EPC DTC CODES, CAN'T ASSIST

I have an  VW Polo 1.4 and the 'Check Engine light' and EPC warning light  blinks for the past few months. Replaced the throttle body and potentiometer  and wiring to the engine manifold were replaced.  The same problem still persists and car  will stall at random causing these warning lights and EPC to switch on.

NO EPC DTC CODES, NO HELP

My polo 1.2  epc light comes on when I stop at traffic lights and goes into limp mode then can only drive  15 mph max without   pressing the accelerator. Took  it to a service agents who condemned  the throttle body, so had it replaced. The EPC light still comes on.


Feel free to upload your VWSKODASEAT & AUDI scans.

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

EPC DEMYSTIFIED CONTINUED 1


Continued from EPC DEMYSTIFIED.  


  ....But it’s not that simple. There is a lot more to it than meets the eye.....

 PART 2



But it’s not that simple. There is a lot more to it than meets the eye. Cars exclusively use embedded microcontrollers (µContollers) with embedded firmware in preference to microprocessors with loadable software. In order for a microprocessor to function properly in any device, it must contain dedicated internal circuitry and firmware specific to its function, have inputs and outputs and an oscillator circuit among other circuitry and an OS (Operating system). A DVR (Digital Video recorder), or a PVR (personal Video recorder) or a set-top-box or embedded network appliance or data router are just a few examples of such systems. µControllers  are less significant and less sophisticated than microprocessors, more dedicated to its specific need, often cheaper, faster, safer and smaller. Embedded µControllers are therefore the natural choice for car manufacturers. And there are several manufactures that produce µControllers families specifically for the motor trade.


So it should be understood that companies like Bosch, Digifant, Delco  and other engine management ECU manufacturers and electronic module manufacturers uses the same microcontroller chip families or similar microcontroller chip families, designed and manufactured for them by a selected few silicon chip manufacturers.  In the same vein, computer manufacturers like IBM, Dell, Sony, Toshiba and Lenovo, etc. all use microprocessors manufactured by Intel Corporation or AMD in their laptops and computers, whereas Apple uses microprocessors manufactured by Motorola.

Baring in mind, that much like Motorola, Intel Corporation and AMD produces different featured microprocessor chips with different instruction sets,  along with their auxiliary support chips for low-end and high-end computers; such as 4 bit, 8bit, 16bit, 8086 family of chips, 32bit Pentiums, I5, I7, 64bit, XEON, 128bit big Endian and small Endian microprocessors etc; so does Infineon, Altera, Freescale, Atmel and ARM etc, manufacture different featured microcontroller chips for both low-end cars and high-end cars which are specifically chosen for their internal features and software by the various ECU and electronic module manufacturers like  Bosch,  LUCAS, DENSO, Delco, DELPHI, FENIX, HITACHI, HELLA,  MARELLI, Siemens, etc. These microcontroller chip families can roughly be categorized into four sub sectors, those specific to Powertrain functions (P), those specific to the Body and Safety functions (B), those with specific functions for Chassis (C) and those specific to Internal Convenience & communication(U).

In a nutshell all the sub systems in your vehicle are controlled by these on-board computer chips, each at the heart of an electronic module flanked by associated components and sensors. Each of these modules are in fact a fully fledged computer in its own right, situated in various positions throughout the car and linked together by a wired networked called a network bus and all are accessible through the Databus diagnostic interface for adaptation.

When the ignition is switched on, several dashboard warning lamps light-up and stays lit for the duration of the internal test cycle (<30 seconds). Should all tests check OK, all lights goes however if all systems does not check out OK, the relevant light will stay on and a fault will be logged in memory . After the car is started, the ECU monitors all sensors  and continually takes readings from the complete range of powertrain modules and sensors. These readings are then compared with default readings stored in the operational logic of the  system. Should the sensor reading coincide and agree with the stored program value or values, the microcontroller will send the  required outputs to the relevant actuators, for example the injectors. If the sensor readings differ and are out of specification,   "not within the required limits",  it will take another and if this sensor reading continues to be ‘out of limits’ a DTC will be triggered and sent to non-volatile memory. Depending on the nature of the fault, the embedded program may or may not instruct the microcontroller to make internal changes, thus operate on different criteria until a repair is effected, or until the fault has been cleared.

So whenever a mechanical or electronic problem arises in either the Powertrain (P), the Body (B), the Chassis (C) or the internal Conveniences & Communication (U) areas, the relevant module or modules triggers the on-board self diagnostics program and generates a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) which is then stored in the non-volatile memory of the ECU for later retrieval by mechanical technicians. At the point When a DTC code is logged in memory, the system self-diagnosis system also alerts the driver with a visible indication  of trouble by turning on a warning light on the dashboard like the "EPC light", or the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" (MIL) which on European cars is known as the "Check Engine Light". This doesn't tell you  the nature of the problem, even though it could be something serious, or not. After the necessary repairs are completed, a diagnostic scan tool should be used to clear the DTC errors  and to turn the malfunction indicator light (MIL) or EPC light off. Thereafter the car should be taken on a short test dive to ascertain that the previous drive issue or issues are resolved. Then the car should be hooked up to the diagnostic scan tool once again in order  to confirms that the DTC or DTCs is also no longer present.

The nature of such mechanical problem may  prevent the engine from starting or it may idle erratically, switch off immediately after starting, refuse to rev higher than 1500 rpm and impede driveability (limp mode), difficult cold starting, misfire, lazy acceleration, high idling speed, fluctuating rev counter, excessive fuel consumption, difficult warm starting, excessive black smoke, poor engine response or emits blue/grey smoke,  etc ... Each of these faults and so many others each produce individualized codes.   In most cases it would be expedient to engage the services of a roll-back to get your car to a VW service center so that diagnostics can be run on the car.

With sufficient knowledge and an appropriate diagnostic apparatus (Autoboss, Pico Scope, Range, VCDS, AutoEnginuity,  ScanXLpro), code reader or scanner, plugged into the car's 16 pin diagnostic plug, mechanical minded persons can read these faults, print then or save them to an SD card or harddrive, send signals and communicate with the ECUs, read the measured values and interrogate the actuators. The DTC in memory however do not identify the part that has gone faulty but rather provides you  with a general idea to its area of origin. Often long before a DTC code is generated the fault may already have existed so when the you view the DTC it could show that the fault occurred twice of thrice or even six times before. The ECU software is designed to monitor the frequency of error and if it is an isolated occurrence the ECU clears the fault after a certain distance is traveled but that dependent on the severity of the fault. For arguement's sake lets say 300kms. If it happens once in 300kms it could automatically clears the fault but should it happen four times during the same distance a DTC will be registered, the car could go into limp mode since it may be unsafe to drive the car if it's a breaking or steering issue, or shut the engine off if the O2 sensor went faulty and can't regulate the smoke pollution, or disable starting if the knock sensor triggered the DTC as there may be no oil in sump which could amount to a very expensive engine repair. In the case of the latter, the oil light should have illuminated long before the knock sensor shuts the engine off. However I have encountered a problem with the wires that plug into the oil sensor that became brittle due to engine heat and  subsequently broke off. As a result the sender  sent the low oil condition but it never arrived at the the ECU hence did not turn-on the oil-low light. I only became aware of this when my EPC light went on due to the knock sensor. See picture in blog.   More ...



EPC DEMYSTIFIED


EPC DEMYSTIFIED IN THREE PARTS

PART 1


In a global village where defined lines between languages and nationalities, technologies and terminologies have become completely blurred, it is important to create terms of reference in discussions, so that we are all on the same page but pronunciation can at times offend the ear. To elaborate, some people say "tomarto" (tomato) some say "tomayto", some say micro computer and some say microprocessor, some say Electronic power control (EPC) some say Electronic Pedal control (EPC). But that's just semantics, the bottom line remains, that it establishes a common ground for people of different geographical spaces to discuss common topics.

In response to the hoards of queries I recently received and the abundance of confusion there is out there about EPC (Electronic Power Control); and in reply to the thousands of e-mails I received regarding EPC (Electronic Power Control) that I haven’t been able to reply to as yet nor will ever be able to, I decided to dedicate the next few episodes of my blog to explaining the EPC (Electronic Power Control) problem many VW drivers and VW owners are having with their cars as if they were two year olds. (Not that two year olds can relate the subject at hand).

I have explained EPC in previous blogs, namely EPC light revisited explained and EPC why-engine-light-comes-on, however, I am going to elaborate on the EPC (Electronic Power Control)  concept and demystify it for the benefit of all these people mentioned above and all those destined to encounter this problem at some time or the other. The question is not if you will encounter an EPC problem but rather when you going to encounter an EPC problem, its just a matter of time. Be that as it may, for the sake of simplicity, and by analogy, I'm going to compare the workings of the EPC (Electronic Power Control) in a car to that of a PC (personal Computer) which in my humble opinion will aid understanding.  So here goes....

Electronics as a whole has intrinsically influenced human life globally, especially since the advent of the silicon chip. Through the evolution of said silicon chip, Microprocessors have become so common place, that it finds itself in virtually every modern day technological advancement from computers to televisions, cell phones to cameras, medical equipment to the very cars we drive, to mention but a few. As a result virtually everyone out-there, has heard of, or are familiar with the terms microprocessor, microcomputer or just computer, and as such, it establishes a basis to discuss familiar concepts. Most people in the "Secular World" either owns a computer or uses computers and accordingly have some understanding of its hardware and its software, and how well these complement each other and seamlessly work together. I mentioned this purely in preparation to my assertion that  follows. However, all those non-technical and all-thumbs people and those  who say "you don't have to know how an engine works in order to drive a car", are totally excused.

EPC for Hands-on Dudes, Savvy Ladies and other pragmatic people.
Computers can roughly be subdivided into building blocks, each of which is responsible for a specific function or a collection of functions. As such a combination of these specific functions gives rise to the correct and proper functionality of the computer or computer based device. For instance, the computer hard drive functions as the storage unit that holds the operating system, application programs and user data. The DVD Rom, serial port, keyboard and mouse acts as input devices. Whereas and the speakers, printer & screen act as output devices, doubling-up as the interfaces of information interchange between man and machine (computer). The motherboard houses the CPU (central Processing Unit / Microprocessor chip) it ancillary / auxiliary timing chips, control and data buses, RAM and sub circuitry for  AGP, PCI, MR1, PCMCIA, USB, Ethernet, Fire wire, parallel connectivity, etc. When all these specific components play together nicely, we are guaranteed a fully functional computer and a happy computer user.

Likewise the car can be subdivided into building blocks each responsible for a specific function. In this instance, the engine is the source of propulsion which delivers it to the rest of the drive train. The instrument panel, the steering wheel, the transmission and the braking system constitute some of the input and output devices, also   doubling-up as the interfaces of information interchange between man and machine (car). The electrical system; the ECU (Motronic control unit), Control unit within the dash,  along with its auxiliary modules, oversees the overall timing, sensor, actuator, control and data bus, as well as block components like the Radio, air conditioner and central locking etc. Once again, when all these discrete components play nicely together, we have a perfectly functional car and a happy driver / owner. More...


Saturday, April 20, 2013

VW ERROR CODES


VOLKSWAGEN ERROR CODES

My VW Polo Classic 2.0L Highline has been acting-up  more and more as the date for  her 90 000Km  service approached.   The Volkswagen Auto suddenly became very heavy on fuel and she started to smoke. It wasn't grey smoke, which would imply the VW Polo was burning oil but rather black smoke which is the tell tale sign that the VW Polo is burning gasoline. I normally do about 6 liters per 100kms but with the last tank of fuel I got something like 9 litres per 100km. With the latest high price of fuel in South Africa, I just had to investigate.  The EPC light problem also returned, which was triggered by the ECU that  placed the Polo into "Limp Mode" once again.  


Rusty water residue still on the engine cover above the VW logo.
However that's not all. My VW  Polo's interior overhead lights above the rear view mirror and sun visor courtesy lights have all stopped working when I open the doors but works perfectly when switched on manually. The  hooter also just gave up the ghost, but  the click of the micro switch in the steering wheel is very audible when I press it.  One of my VW headlight also seems to be intermittent and it appears that my oil level sensor also does'nt work either. My VW air conditioner stopped working  and my VW left tail bulb fused again and the reverse light is intermittent. I was told that it goes on or flickers whilst I'm driving.   But worst of all my VW Polo overheated whilst driving in peak hour traffic and the fans didn't even come on. When I pulled the bonnet release, the little lead ball at the end of the cable snapped off. Consolation I noticed the steam coming out from under the bonnet before the heat gauge was at 100 degrees. To add insult to injury, normally at approx 20 kph all the doors of VW das auto locks, but lately the front passenger side door unlocks itself mere seconds after it locks. This is a security risk and with all the other problems I've been experiencing, I just had to connect the VW to a diagnostic tester. This turned out to be a weekend job when the following Error Codes popped up.

Chassis Type: 9N3 - VW Polo
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,17,19,37,44,46,56,69

Address 01 -------------------------------------
Controller: 06A 906 032 PB
Component: 2.0l ME7.5.10 0305
Coding: 00071
Shop #: WSC 01120
VIN: AAV ZZZ 9NZ 7Uxxxxxx  / VWZ7Z0G5248478
Readiness: 0000 0000

SOME ERROR CODES:-

VW, Polo Highline, Polo 1.9 TDi, Volkswagen beetles, Jetta, VW Polo cross, Passat, Polo GTi, Bora, Volkswagen bluemotion, Polo Classic,   Polo 1.9 tdi,  VW Polo blue motion,  Cross Polo, VW Golf, Beetle, Audi, VW blue motion,  Skoda, VW Touran, VW Touareg,  VW Tiguan, VW Amrok, VW Rabbit, VW Caddy, VW Phaeton, VW Vento, VW Kombi, VW Transporter, VW Lupo and VW Vivo - Error Codes

VW Error code 16716  P0332 - Knock Sensor 2 (G66): Signal too Low - Intermittent 
VW Error code 17511  P1103 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating: B1 S1: Performance too Low
VW Error code 17796  P1388 - Control Module Malfunction - DBW Throttle Monitoring 
VW Error code 18010  P1602 - Power Supply (B+) terminal 30 Low Voltage
VW Error code 18041  P1633 - Accelerator Position Sensor 2 (G185): Signal too Low
VW Error code 18047  P1639 - Accelerator Position Sensor 1/2 (G79/G185): Implausible Signal
VW Error code 18048  P1640 - Internal Control Module: EEPROM Error
VW Error code 18090  P1682 - Powertrain Data Bus: Implausible Message from ABS Controller
VW Error code 18104  P1696 - Powertrain Data Bus: Implausible Message from Steering Column Controller


Turns our that ECU CAN bus edge connectors were corroded which solved P0332, P1682, and P1689The P1602 is not really considered an error since it will always be present in the ECU if or when the Battery was disconnected. P1388, P1633 and P1639 are related to accelerator pedal sensors and once the pedal is replaced that problem will be solved, other than that, the VW Polo drives perfectly normal. The Internal Control Module, error P1640 however is going to take a bit longer to solve since it appears that several of my VW module's coding values has somehow changed on their own. But most of all I'm glad I solved the black smoke problem. I found that the wire of  the Oxygen sensor was burnt onto the exhaust pipe and shorted out the sensor. So I'm back to 6 litres per 100Km.

Radiator relay controller destined to be replaced since neither of the fans operate.

There were no errors on the ECU for the overheating radiator  and when I removed the bonnet release cable I saw that the bonnet open sensor / switch wire was broken off. I traced the heating problem to the  relay (picture above) and while I was under the engine I noticed that the Air Conditioner compressor wires had frayed and were dangling loose.

Before and after - Air Conditioner Compressor wires frayed and somehow broke off 
Before and after - Bonnet open/close micro-switch/sensor  with wires reattached.
Oil level sensor wires hardened and became brittle resulting in no electrical connection
 I cut off the hardened pieces of wire, tinned them with solder and reconnected the wires to the oil sensor with electrical block connectors since the terminals initially used by VW didn't seem to last very long. The block connector appears to makes a much better connection.

The plastic insulators on the spade terminal couldn't withstand the heat of the cool blue bulbs.
VW VAG - Volkswagen error codes and VW Electronic Module diagnostics will be dealt with in subsequent blogs, starting with Engine Modules for the Polo 9N , then ABS Modules then Airbag Modules.