What your Electronic Power Control (EPC) Warning Light really means

Computers are ubiquitous or rather microcomputers, microprocessors and their peripheral systems and chipsets are.  As such, they can be found in most electronic devices, ranging from laptops to printers, routers, radios, walkie-talkies, cell-phones and toys to mention but a few. In fact, microprocessors are so common place that they've taken over most hand held and personal electronic devices so-much-so that they are even embedded in our entertainment equipment, our cars, motorcycles, aeroplanes, ships and trains. It can thus be said that electronics in all its technological forms, have completely changed how we live  our lives. These systems along with its sensors, sendors and actuators are referred to as On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) and since it's in its second revision, known as OBD-II or just OBDII.

Furthermore  these On-board diagnostic (OBDII) digital computers interfaced with its dependency modules, electro-mechanical systems and sensors built into our cars have collectively taken-over and superseded most mechanical linkage functions, that were previously and traditionally used for acceleration, steering control and parking brake among several other.  So, welcome to the world of  drive-by-wire, (electronic throttle control) steer-by-wire, shift-by-wire, brake-by-wire and fly-by-wire which is currently widely used in aviation. 

What your Electronic Power Control (EPC) Warning Light really says!

Your car's EPC light essentially indicates that there is an issue with the  torque system of your vehicle. This torque system is your car's acceleration and braking system that now operates via drive-by-wire, shift-by-wire and brake-by-wire. In a nutshell, it's a computer chip supervised electronic system (ECU) that replaced the cable linkage previously situated between the carburetor and the accelerator pedal with an electrical/electronic interface. 

This amber EPC light is an advisory light rather than a warning light -since warning lights are red in colour- is illuminated when the ECU detects a glitch in the torque system. When a glitch is detected, in most cases the ECU will enable 'limp home mode'. Limp mode is a fail-safe software-embedded, security and safety feature that  inhibits the system, activates a  rev limiter, shuts off boost partially or completely, resulting in a maximum 2500 RPM.  

Thereby leaving only sufficient power to safely drive the car home in some cases. In other cases it could prevent the car from even starting.  Limp mode also acts as a safe-guard against further engine / transmission trouble or possible runaway.  Switching off the engine and disconnecting the battery may in some cases momentarily cure limp mode, but then again it may not due to the ECU's  non-volatile memory. However as an  advisory light, it begs for an OBD-II diagnostic scan, so that the Trouble Code (DTC) error may be diagnosed and repaired. This is best done sooner rather than later, as Limp mode sometimes manages to cures itself, yet bound to repeat itself continually until repaired. The ECU has a counter / timer monitoring how many times the same DTC was detected since the last start-up. If just a few times (considered negligible / mistakenly triggered) the counter resets itself and starts to recount from when it happens again.

Having said that, EPC lights and drive-by-wire systems aren't exclusive to "VAG cars" like most mechanics would have you to believe. The EPC light is a mandatory part  of the OBD-II system hence fitted as standard equipment on "all post '96 cars". OBD regulations are written into Government legislation globally so that in time, the Department of Transport (DoT) may require all vehicles to regularly go for mandatory carbon emission tests in order the achieve road roadworthiness. They will access your cars under dash 16 pin obd connector to check its "Readiness Status". Readiness is an 2 x 4 digit binary number (hexadecimal) that look something like 1011 0110 or 1110 0101 or 0000 0000 or any combination of zeros and ones which is subject to the workings of equipment fitted in your vehicle.

Anyway, if you don't know, VAG stands for Volkswagen AG. The AG is an abbreviation for Aktiengesellschaft - implying incorporated. Aktiengesellschaft is the German term for a Public Limited Company (PLC). Thus the  VAG group is comprised of ten car brands  viz, Volkswagen, VW Commercial vehicles, Volkswagen Marine, Audi, SEAT, CUPRA, ŠKODA, Lamborghini, Porsche, Bentley and Ducati, spanning across five European countries.  In a nutshell most if not all these vehicles have a EPC light and torque control circuit operated via drive-by-wire as standard equipment. But as mentioned previously, an EPC lights with drive-by-wire and brake-by-wire is not exclusive to VAG cars.  

This torque circuit (throttle-by-wire) is a collection of interconnected electronic components amongst which are the car's battery, ignition switch, throttle body position sensor / potentiometer and throttle body actuator / stepper motor. The ECU itself, the braking system sensors and the wiring harnesses that supplies voltage / earth and feedback to and from the accelerator position sensor/ potentiometer and the throttle body motor, the cruise control switch, the instrument cluster and even one of the brake globes itself.

Possible problems

So by implication, with so many points of failure, so much can go wrong, For example, a loose battery terminal could cause the accelerator potentiometer input voltage to momentarily disappear for a fraction of a second, thus detected by the ECU which  would then trigger limp mode. It could also be caused by a speck of dust has settled on the potentiometer slider that creates a brief intermittent contact. The ECU will however detect this and implement limp mode. 

Then there is the dozens of wiring harnesses with their hundreds of connections. Several of them instrumental in the automotive torque circuit. Since electronics has taken over our cars, some having more than 3 dozen individual harnesses, collectively  comprising of more than 3000 wires and a third as many connectors. It gives you an idea of multitude of electrical problems that can occur.

Male and female wiring harness connectors used in the automotive industry are fairly reliable however due to the under-bonnet conditions like extreme engine heat and morning freezing temperatures, humidity, steam, condensation, oil splatter, dust and vibration, can collectively give rise to corrosion inside wired plugs and sockets. Corrosion normally causes high resistive electrical conditions which upsets the functionality of the circuit concerned.  

This could cause a myriad of problems in a myriad of circuits among which could be the MAF circuit, causing poor driveability and sudden jerking motions during acceleration flanked by untimed detonations.  It could be the MAP circuit causing poor fuel economy and difficult starting and rough idling. Catalytic converter wiring would cause dark exhaust smoke that  smell like rotten eggs due to the excess sulphur and the engine performance will be sluggish..... etc. Wait for the follow-up!

Volkswagen

Volkswagen

Volkswagen cars are extremely popular. In fact, they are so  popular that Volkswagen as a brand is the favourite car of many South Africans, besides being the most popular car sold on the South African market. Volkswagen cars are also popular elsewhere and are sold in virtually every country throughout the world; but its popularity and its global acclaimed robustness doesn't make it indestructible. 

Volkswagen cars give problems, in fact they are more troublesome now, than they've ever been. The reason, the ODB-II system with its ever increasing number of ECUs.  This system has several features that means well, like controlling toxic emissions, like giving you the best fuel efficiency;  and is capable of detecting minor issues or glitches before they actually occur, among so many other beneficial features.

However, like every coin has two sides, and as there are always two side to every story, there is also a reaction to every action.   Meaning for every beneficial feature of OBD-II there is a detrimental feature to OBD-II. OBD-II is essentially a computer system with a host of additional computer modules remotely placed through the body of the car, some of which have an effect on the Engine ECU. 

These modules or sub-ECUs oversee various features, like an airbag controller module/ECU that supervises the airbag. This module is connected to crash sensors placed in strategic positions in the car, that triggers when a crash occurs and ensure that the airbag is inflated within the required time frame. Then there is also an immobilizer module/ECU that supervises the starting process ensuring the correct code from the key transponder chip corresponds with its randomly generated code. There is also an ABS Brakes module, a Gateway module, a Steering Assist module, an Instrument Module, a Central Convenience module, a Radio module, to mention but a few. All of which are potentially sources of problems.

If we only look at the Airbag and the Immobilizer modules/ECUs, both will impede driveability and the starting of the car, by influencing the Engine ECU. If the Engine ECU doesn't received the expected signal from either, it would refuse to start the engine. The Engine ECU is the heart of the ODD-II and normally sits in the engine compartment or inside the car under the dashboard. All three these modules/ECUs mentioned, sometimes also referred to as nodes, are in within a meter of on another but here's the downside. 

To get them to sing in harmony they are connected together by a wiring harness. This wiring harness plugs into each and every node in the car, and also share a common twisted-pair wire-connection  called a bus which is terminate at each of its ends with 120 Ω resistors. This bus can be either Controller Area Network (CAN) or  Local Interconnect Network (LIN) or even FlexRay. Each module also has a power supply and an earth connection. All of these wire connections are potentially sources of problems.

The average car can have anything between 5 and 100 modules/ECUs, some ECUs have as few as six connections and others as many as 80 or 94 or even more. Each of these physical connections are prone to corrosion, metal fatigue and physical flexing due to suspension vibration and is a source of future problems. Some ECU's earth connection is solely made through body contact and if it looses contact due to vibration or water ingress, it will undoubtedly cause an error or errors. 

These errors are stored in the ECU's non-volatile memory which can at times be quite cryptic. I can say that without doubt that every "automotive technician" has misinterpreted DTCs and replaced unnecessary components in the process. Even returned cars to the owners claiming that they solved the problem but didn't, they were just under the misapprehension that they did.

If any connection out of this glut of connections becomes intermittent for some reason or the other, it would be like trying to find a needle in a haystack and there are so many "automotive technician" that have never touched a needle nor even seen a haystack, let alone find a needle in a haystack. Be that as it may, one of the advantages of OBD-II is that it increases the likelihood of a DIY fix, providing the fixer is fairly dexterous and have some electronic and mechanical knowledge and have access to a diagnostic scanner.

A fairly common plug connection that goes intermittent, is the one that connects to the throttle body. It supplies the voltage to the stepper motor that controls the throttle butterfly valve. This plug also sends feedback to the ECU so that it knows how wide open or close the valve is. So many mechanics insist on stripping the throttle body due to a throttle body DTC and claim after cleaning it, the problem was solved. However a few days later the error would be back. A word of caution, Don't suspect replaceable parts especially if it has less that 100 000 km on its clock. Exhaust the possibility that it's a possible wiring harness problem before replacing expensive items because they can never be returned to the agents after its been installed.

Another intermittent connection it the 6 pin plug that interfaces with the accelerator pedal. This is a common source of the dreaded EPC problem. In many cases, a squirt of electro cleaner may solve this problem. That's to say until it's triggered by something else. It's worth while to check the voltage supply stability and ground impedance between the 6 pin plug and the ECU. Remembering that the pedal's earth connection is grounded inside the ECU and the ECU is grounded to the body or chassis and not the engine. In some cases, the ECU will function normally because its metal casing is not earthed.

Also, don't be tempted to earth the pedal earth directly to the body when there is a  significant resistance reading. Rather replace that portion of the wiring harness that may have gone high resistive. Offset ground connections and ground loops can cause voltage drops and magnetic impedance which are major causes of noise hum, and interference in computer systems (ECU). So don't alter the the existing ground connections because it could introduce issues you've never experienced before.

Volkswagen and Audi EPC

Volkswagen and Audi EPC

The Internet is a huge repository of  information, some useful  and some not so useful, or more to the point, useless. But, there is so much of both, duplicated and reechoed  in posts like auto-facts, axleaddict, youfixcars, and motor forums by so many individuals. There is nothing worst than being led up the garden path by some ignoramus who knows squat about electro-mechanical engineering technology when you are desperately looking for answers. To reduce that from happening, I decides to bust some of the myths related to VAG cars that are being echoed over and over and over.

EPC can be a bitch to repair.

Myth 1
Here's the first myth from someone on Yahoo Answers, relating to a 2012 VW Polo. "You can clear fault codes by disconnecting your battery for a while".  And here's another, "just disconnect the battery on your Audi A3 for a little more than 10 seconds and your fault codes will be  gone"! 

Myth 1 Busted
Though the above is true for pre-1996 vehicles fitted with OBD-I, disconnecting the battery on any car manufactured post-1996 fitted with OBD-II will definitely not delete any fault codes because the ECU stores all DTC (Dignostic Trouble Codes) aka fault codes codes in its  non-volatile memory.  What it will do, is reset the cpu / timer. The term non-volatile memory is generally used for all types of solid state memory, meaning memory that doesn't need its contents refreshed periodically. 

However, the ECU also stores learnt values and basic settings, like for example the Fuel Control Learning Adaptation Values and the Kick-Down Position of the Accelerator which is needed by the automatic transmission. This data and your car's radio code is not stored in non-volatile memory and will undoubtedly be erased when the battery is disconnected.  Once the battery is reconnected, the adaptation process needs to be done which will enable the ECM to learn the new settings for the Drive-by-Wire electronic throttle  valve and store it. If you didn't save the radio code you have to go to a VW / Audi dealer with your VIN and they may be able to give it to you.

When you disconnect your car's battery, the ECU detects the loss of battery power and registers a DTC in the ECU's non-volatile memory to that effect. This record can be seen after the battery is reconnected and a  diagnostic scan is performed.  It would look something like this,

2 Faults Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
            07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

01598 - Drive Battery Voltage 
            07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

Removing the negative terminal of the battery isn't all bad, it does have the advantage  of resetting  the system's ECU safety watchdog timer. A safety watchdog timer (WDT) is responsible for periodically generating a system reset in the event of a software glitch. This one of a kind CIC61508 safety watchdog timer is ASIL-D (Automotive Safety Integrity Level D) approved,  where level D refers to the highest classification of initial hazard against the risk of injury as defined within ISO26262 automotive industry standard.

Infineon Safety Watchdog timer 

Pressure Sensors

Myth 2
There are pressure sensor in the VW and Audi engine block that causes an EPC light to come on and make the car go into limp mode.

Myth 2 bustedYes, there are pressure sensors in both VW and Audi engines but they not fitted into the block and should not be mistaken for than for knock senors that are screwed to the block. Faulty or loose knock sensors can cause the EPC light to come on and send the car into limp mode.  The baro sensor measures the ambient air pressure and has a effect on engine performance altitude dependent.  The supercharger boost pressure is controlled via the regulating flap control unit Intake manifold pressure sensor/MAP sensor (MAP = Manifold Air Pressure) which can cause the EPC light to come on and send the car into limp mode. The high-pressure fuel pump delivers fuel at a pressure of up to 150 bar and any drop in this pressure can cause the EPC light to come on and send the car into limp mode. Common problem with loss of pressure is the fuel filter. Loss of oil pressure can cause the EPC light to come on and send the car into limp mode. Lastly there is high system pressure in the cooling system at high revs and sudden loss of this pressure can cause the EPC light to come on and send the car into limp mode.

Myth 3
EPC light usually means that the Electronic Throttle Body needs replacing and reprogramming.  

Myth 3 busted It is advantages to perform adaptation on the throttle body, before attempting to replace it with a new throttle body . Often times replacing it makes no difference and normally turn out to be the wiring harness connectors to the throttle body that's defective.   Disassemble the three electrical connectors around the throttle body clean  this inside of the connectors with circuit cleaner and reassembled. Also check for vacuum leaks, especially pressure regulator hose and the small pipes connected to the intake-manifold before replacing anything.

Myth 4
Epc light is mostly known to come on when there is emissions problems. 

Myth 4 busted This is incorrect because the 'check engine light' is specific to emission related problems, however The EPC light may also come on if the emission related problem affects the engine torque. So repairing the emission related problem first would in most cases reset both the EPC light and the 'check engine light'.

Sensors associated with EPC

Extensive safety measures have been designed and implimented 
in both the hardware and software of Audi and VW.  In most cases dual sensors are used for continual self-checking of signal plausibility. A safety watcg dog timer is integrated in the Motronic ECM to constantly and continually monitor the processor for correct and proper operation. Some of the sensors are listed below.

Fuel Pressure Sensor G247
Low Fuel Pressure Sensor G410
Oil Level Thermal Sensor G266
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) G39
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) 2 G108
Oxygen Sensor (O2S) G130 &  G130
situated behind 3 Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) G130
G186 Throttle Drive  (EPC))
G187 Throttle Drive Angle Sensor 1  (EPC))
G188 Throttle Drive Angle Sensor 2  (EPC))
Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor G28
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor G70
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor G79
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 G185
Clutch Position Sensor G476
Throttle Valve Control Module J338 
Throttle Drive Angle Sensor 1 (EPC) G187
Throttle Drive Angle Sensor 2 (EPC) G188
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor G40
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor 2 G163
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor G62
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor G83 (on radiator) 
Knock Sensor (KS) 1 G61
Knock Sensor (KS) 2 G66
Brake Light Switch F

Volkswagen Electrical Problems

Volkswagen Electrical Problems

Electrical problems will invariably affect each and every new Volkswagen vehicle on the road today.  Generally, electrical problems are relatively easy to trace and repair, if you know what you doing, but it can be a nightmare when the faults present themselves as intermittent, especially considering cars have now gone CAN Bus, LIN Bus, Byteflight, MOST, Flexray, Zigbee, etc. VW EPC problems tend to be seriously intermittent, making every VW with an EPC issue a real bitch to diagnose.  Of late, more and more VW cars seem to be having EPC trouble among other bizarre electrical problems and very surprisingly, the VW service centers seem unable to repair them. 

Virtually everyone I know who has had an EPC issue, had to take their cars for repairs at least three to four times for exactly the same fault.  There are also numerous VW, SEAT, SKODA and Audi owners, who spent enormous amounts of money on replacement of "EPC issue causing components", yet the EPC faults remain. Essentially they lost money but I normally say they didn't loose money but bought experience and they paid dearly for it. Then there are others who are still waiting on the VW service agents / or some mechanic for their EPC problems to be solved after several months, a year and in some cases even longer.  

There was a time when virtually every electrical issue or loom (wiring harness) problem was associated  with the  FIAT brand. People even ascribed a nomenclature to FIAT - "First In All Troubles". However, it seems like Volkswagen  subsequently bought that patent, and now owns all right to it.

Electrical problems have never been as common place as they are today.

Let me give you an example, the wiring harness between the alternator and  the a  high voltage fuse box mounted on the battery of the VW Beetle has a tendency to melt or it just start to burn. It's a very well known problem and is also really common. It the  main reason that so many Beetles have burnt to a crisp. The Beetle wiring harness running between turn signals / headlights and the ECM is also troublesome -intermittent. The wiring harness resistance between the injector and the ECM changes over time from 1 ohm to above 30 ohms. The wiring harness resistance between the alternator and the battery also increases due to failing fans thus causing excessive current draw resulting in the wiring harness  over heating then melt.

I've seen VW Polo and VW Passt headlight wiring harness melt. The connectors tend to melt due to the type of plastic used and can be traced back to either arcing / overheating of the the bulbs or shorting out of deteriorated wiring. VW Passat coil pack wiring harness also prevents the car from starting and when water enters the wiring harness in the cowl area beneath the windshield,  it caused a short that normally damaged / corrodes the electronic control module. 

Both the Volkswagen CC and the Golf Mk5 GTI now seem to have throttle body wiring harness issues causing the EPC light to switch on and make the car go into limp mode. But there is no fault code that tells you the wiring harness is faulty or intermittent. Another VW CC harness problem to be on the lookout for, is the trunk lid harness that physically breaks over time  due to opening and closing of the trunk. A common problem on VW Pasat is the ignition wires that breaks inside its insulation, resulting in misfires.  VW sells a six pin throttle body sensor connector kit with yellow wires (below) that needs to be spliced onto the wiring harness to circumvent EPC issues when presented with wiring harness / G187 & G188 DTC errors.

Throttle body rewiring kit

Audi throttle body connector kit.  The wires kinda looks like single mode optical fibre cables along with  fusion splice protection sleeves

VW also sells a  six pin accelerator pedal  connector (below) that needs to be replaced as a solution to EPC problems when presented with wiring harness and G79 & G185 DTC errors. There is a likelyhood that this culture of poor quality wiring harnesses has spilled over into all the other VW models as well. To make matters worse, the newest mania among vehicle makers like Honda, Subaru and Toyota  for example,  are to use eco-friendly soy-based insulation wire for their engine wiring harnesses. VW's, Audi and Porsche, uses a soy based wire sheath to encase the engine harness. 

The six pin throttle pedal connector the goes intermittent causing EPC problems.

As a result, rats and squirrels are attracted by the aroma of the wiring harness and nibbles off the tasty insulation causing the bare wires to short out. Apparently these soy-based wire coverings are totally irresistible to rodents. As proof to this, several VW owners who have had electrical problems with their cars have vacuumed rats nests along with dog food chunk from their engine compartments. Others have removed several hands full of hazel nuts shells from their air filter boxes  that squirrels made their haven.  

Replacement six pin connectors for VW Audi SEAT and SKODA

Be that as it may, modern day car soy based car components are not a first, during World War II, some U.S. states used soybean fiberboard for their license plates, which proved extremely popular among goats that made a feast out of them. All I can say is, that VW service centers are going to make a small killing by replacing wiring harnesses of the millions of VW on the road today. Personally, I think you whole biodegradable "go green thing" , "eco this eco that" is overrated and is  getting out of hand. 

Some time back, some Dummkopf  -Dr. Dieter Zetsche- at Mercedes Benz decided that all Mercedes Benz cars manufactured during 1992 – 1996 should be fitted with biodegradable wiring. This leap toward eco friendliness by Mercedes Benz was well-intended but those wiring harness prematurely disintegrated due to engine heat and caused untold electrical problems. VW should in fact take a lesson out of the Mercedes Benz's annals.

See the cracks and the brittleness of the wire insulation after just a few ears of use

However, there is a DIY remedy for biodegradable, rodent enticing soy flavoured wiring harnesses.  Honda Acura Acura supplies a genuine-OEM rodent-deterrent duct tape, which is treated with capsaicin, - super-spicy red-hot chili pepper compound - that deters rodent.  Wrapping you VW wiring harness before rats discover your car is the way to go. Enough said, so let me return the subject at hand. 

Spicy anti rodent insulation tape,

In the not too distant past, Volkswagen Jetta models manufactured between  January of  2005 and January  of 2006 were sold with a "defective door wiring harnesses". It wasn't that the harness was defectives in the sense of not working but rather the harness was made too short. As a result, thousands of Jetta owners were experiencing similar problems as the harness started to chafe and disintegrate through regular use.

Common experiences included loss of power to the door controls, failure of the power window controls, failure of the power mirror controls, failure of the fuel tank latch release, failure of the boot lid release. Other weird experience included loss of audio to the speakers, a tripped air bag light on dashboard, when locking the door with the key fob remote the radio to turn on, or the key fobs just doesn't work, also having to recharged the battery continually because it runs down overnight. The interior door-open lights wouldn't turn off  and neither would the buzzer, the sunroof opened randomly. The turn signal in the side mirror stopped flashing and neither would the hooter work but would beep at odd times when you least expect it.  The windshield wipers worked occasionally and the car alarm would trigger unexpectedly and repeatedly.

In fact most VW Jetta owners complained about loss of some or all of the controls located on the driver's door.  These  faults weren't confined to the driver's door, because it was purely a matter of time before the the passenger door also developed a short or an open circuit in  one or more of its electrical circuit. The only way to remedy the problem was to replace the  broken harness with a genuine VW replacement which turned out to be some 80 mm longer than those fitted in the Jettas doors.

VW Jetta Front door replacement harness

A class action suit was leveled against Volkswagen alleging that they knew the door wiring harnesses were deliberately  made too short at the time these Jettas were sold. It was further alleged that Volkswagen shortened the harness by 80mm was  so that they could save costs, which  would ultimately lead to premature breaking of the door wiring harnesses boosting replacement harness sales.

However, most other Volkswagens electrical problems can possibly be traced back to a a troublesome ground. Water somehow enters the ground wires, in the cowling below the windscreen traveling inside the wire insulation resulting in corrosion. Always check the ground connections located  under the battery tray, or ground connections underneath the air cleaner box, or located inside the windshield wiper cowling or in the engine compartment, or the ground connections on the steering column or behind instrument cluster.   Covering the ground connections with battery terminal grease should offset the corrosion, if any, Remember poor ground connections, can cause a multitude of problems if it they become loose, can cause anything from cam sensor codes, to instrument cluster problems like erratic speedometer display, to misbehaving fuel gauge, to a dead gear indicator light, to non operational windshield wiper,  to a flickering digital clock , etc. 

Volkswagens that are equipped with air conditioning  are subject to high ambient temperatures which often causes the battery to get drained whenever the radiator fan kicks in at full speed with the ignition shut off.  Under high heat conditions, the gas pressure of the refrigerant can activate the A/C high pressure switch, triggering the high speed radiator fan relay to activate the cooling fan. Volkswagen has subsequently recommended a replacement fan relay switch with other minor modification of the A/C high pressure switch wiring, to solve this problem.

Replacement Radiator fan control switch

Whenever your VW misbehaves and you cannot put your finger on it, the best thing to  do is to investigate every ground lug on every bit of the engine wiring harness that you can get at. Loosen it, cleaned it with a  wire brush and some emery cloth and if needs be replace ground lugs that are corroded and possible even the screw/ nut. Don't forget to retorque the nut to the requisite tension. It may even be beneficial to add a second heavy duty ground strap to decrease resistance if any. Heavy duty welding cable from a welders supply store is far more  tolerant to vibration than your average cheap jumper cable wire. Starting difficulties can often be traced / associated to a poor ground connection. 

Remember when repairing wiring harnesses that soldering is not the recommended nor the appropriate method of repairing  it.  Solder joints are not flexible and tend to break after  while due to vibration.  Always use insulated crimp lugs and bullets like these below on connecting terminals especially at ground distribution points.

Lugs, bullet and spade connectors for repairing ground connections.

There is a tendency among car manufacturers to  miniaturize the physical size of electrical connector contacts and thereby the oversize of the connector. The problem is that the surface area of contact is remarkably reduced and are thus prone to intermittent contact under vibration. This has now become very evident on the wiring loom connectors that interface with the throttle body and the accelerator pedal to the point that they need to be replaced when they go intermittent. Don't bother to spray them with contact spray, just replace them. they are cheap enough to buy rather than suffer constant EPC issues and they are even available on Amazon, ebay, DHgate, and other online auction.

@DomLittlewood I need your help on a case I have with Volkswagen. A Brand new Volkswagen Polo numerous electrical problems & now caught fire

— Deano Luke (@95deanluke) August 30, 2016

ENGINE STALL / SHUTS OFF WHILE DRIVING

Engine stalls / shuts off while driving.

Of all the cars built by Volkswagen, the Jetta seems to be the most troublesome VW, and out of all the Jetta models manufactured, since its inception, the 2015 model seems to be the most problematic. Problematic  is perhaps isn't  the best adjective nor the most appropriate word that Jetta owners would use to describe their vehicles.  Most of them say their cars are, very scary and highly dangerous, because of the engine suddenly stalling,  especially in places where it's unsafe to stop. 

Female VW Jetta owners are now generally upset, afraid and some are even terrified to drive their cars, because of their frightful experiences with their cars losing power on the highway / express lanes, as the EPC and engine light turns on. They are fearful and generally worried that it could happen again. All of them convinced that it can lead to a very serious accident, also  stating that the car feels like a death trap when it stalls in fast moving traffic. Many of them feel it is unsafe for them to drive with their children in a car with the potential of being in a rear collision at any time, or get them all killed. They are disappointed and disgusted by Volkswagen personal for not caring about their complaints.

We're talking about new cars and well maintained cars, cars that are taken care of, most with less than 20 000 km on their clocks and one with as few as 30km on its clock, that needs to be towed to the VW service centers. To make matters worse,  roadside assistance sold with these Jettas have an ETA of 3 hours. And to crown the problem, VW agents can't seem to find the reason why these Jettas turn  off in mid travel, yet they are always replacing spare parts. They blame it on a central fuse which was not properly installed, or on the  wiring harness to the gas accelerator housing. Some blame it on calibration, yet it doesn't fix the problem. When a VW dealer was told that the car is unable to accelerate after stopping at a traffic light or at stop street, they echoed that they've never heard of this happening to any other Jetta before, yet this problem seems to be as common as sand.

 In fact it is really common on the 2009 Volkswagen  Routan -  traction control light comes on and the vehicle  completely loses power, engine shuts off while driving and the steering locks. If ever there was a   safety issue, then this is it. Then there is the smell of  gasoline or diesel inside the cabin which the service centers dismiss as an overfilled fuel tank which turned out to be leaky high pressure fuel pump on a 2015 Jetta. Then there is the cooling fan that runs at high speed after the ignition as been turned off, and as a consequence drains my battery.

When these Jettas switch off, nothing works not even the SOS roadside button, so it more like electrical than mechanical, though when the car goes into limp mode the steering system locks and the car cannot even be steered out of harms way. To add insult to injury, VW is unwilling to recall these Jettas and these problems don't seem to be covered by the  VW warranty. 

Somehow certain problems tend to be specific to certain Jettas models, for example, the 2004 and the 2015 Jetta seem to have engine problems though not exclusively.  Clutch clutch failure in the 2015 Jetta  is also common. The 2003 and the 2016 Jettas appear to have transmission problems though also not exclusively. The 2006 tend to have interior electrical accessories issues and the  2009 Jetta seem to have problems with their 'brakes' and ABS module failure. Jetta with FSI and TSI direct injection engines are subject to carbon buildup in the intake system which can cause power loss. It is wise to clean the intake manifold, cylinder head ports  every 30,000 kilometers..

Jetta SE V4 Turbo, Jetta CLI, Jetta S 2.0L, Jetta SE V4 Turbo, Jetta SE 1.8t, Jetta Trendline Plus 2L, Jetta TDI, Jetta TSI 1.8L

HOW TO FIX AN EPC PROBLEM - CONTINUED

HOW TO FIX AN EPC PROBLEM, - CONTINUED

The final note on the preceding blog installment ended on 'scan for Diagnostic Trouble  Codes with a scan tool'. However before we start scanning it is important to note, that Vehicles from year 2000 are fitted with an EPC (Electronic Power Control) system, hence this exposée only applies to cars fitted with a obdii 16 pin female connector, identifiable by its  normally purple core, roughly the same purple of the 6-pin mini-DIN connector  of a personal computer keyboard.  This EPC system / Drive-by-Wire circuit (implying no throttle cable) is also known as the torque circuit. The EPC system controls the EPC light  which turns on if and when there is the slightest malfunction  in the Drive-by-Wire circuit. Any such fault will more than likely generate a DTC (fault code) in the ECM, which is stored in its non-volatile memory, meaning even if the battery is disconnected afterwards the DTC (fault codes) will persist. However, also note that when the battery is disconnected all driver learnt values particular to your driving style, will be erased. Disconnecting the battery may require resetting the convenience electronics, such as alarm, interior lights and the radio. So, most importantly if you don't have the radio code, practice caution because the radio will permanently lock-up hence it's a good idea to use a jumper battery or perhaps even a battery charger to maintain battery power whilst replacing a battery. Or get the code from your service center.

Whilst any problem in the torque circuit is  normally responsible for turning on the EPC light,  the EPC light may also turn on for some other non-emission related engine faults.  When a combination of emission-related and EPC-related fault is encountered, both the MIL and EPC lights may turn on. This alone give one a good idea of whether or not the engine problem is purely torque related or part of an emission-relate issue.

Most pure torque circuit EPC faults are accompanied by Limp-Home Mode which revolve around the basic settings for the Electronic Throttle Control Valve Adjuster, Idling Control, EPC Adaptation and the  Accelerator Pedal Position Senders. Their values are stored in the ECU normally from group 60 - group 62 of the Bosch ME 7 and newer ECUs, however the actual group may vary subject to make, model and engine capacity of the vehicle. For example. Jetta, Polo, Audi TT, etc, EPC adaptation exists at group 060 - group 062, whereas these values may be stored in group 098 for some VW Passat and Audi A4, S4, B5.

Group=060, Adaptation Epc-system
Group=061, Epc-system (1)
Group=062, Epc-system (2)

Emergency Running or Limp-Home Mode

Both Bosch Motronic and Siemens Simos ECU have two emergency running modes to compensate for accelerator pedal sender failure. The first mode triggers when the primary sender G79 (Sender -1) accelerator pedal sender fails, and the second mode triggers when both G79 and G185 (Sender -2- redundant sender) accelerator pedal senders fail. In the first case with one accelerator pedal sender failing, the accelerator position is limited to a predefined value (limp mode) idling speed while some comfort functions will be disabled,  the Air Conditioner for example. By which time EPC light would have already illuminated. However, when the second emergency mode triggers the engine runs only at idle speed. It would be exactly like disconnecting / removing the accelerator pedal completely. On the occasion that I replaced my accelerator pedal, I started the engine and to my surprise it started perfectly normal and idled at a normal rev. So the conclusion is when both accelerator pedal senders / potentiometer fail, it gives you the same, exact, identical symptoms of a physical steel accelerator cable that snapped. Considering a throttle cable is the single most important part of the throttle system in a car engine. So when it breaks the car will idle, but will not rev. The EPC system mimics the pysical cable exactly or as near as dammit.

Siemens Simos ECU J361 with pin connections

Looking at the diagram for accelerator pedal senders G79 and G185, pins 50 and 19 are inputs from their respective highside driver 5V supplies with pins 18 and 45 of the ECU microprocessor are their independent internal earth connections. The two variable voltages at pins 51 and 64 are the inverse of on another. Essentially G185 (secondary) is working as a backup to G79 (primary). Inputs at pins 51 and 64 are constantly monitored by the ECU microprocessor could range from sporadic to too high or too low, to intermittent to absolutely not there. The  ECU microprocessor with its built-in Watchdog Supervision Safety Logic monitoring performing plausability checks for voltage regulation, Over/Under voltage levels, intermittent voltage levels. If for any reason that the calculations based on its internal algorithms do not correspond to its internally stored and expected values either the watchdog processor or the  Main Processing Element enable   a secondary shutdown path to all equipment under its control. In a nutshell, limp mode.

Constant movement of the gold plated contacts on the potentiometer slider eventually wears through and becomes intermittent especially if the vehicle has attained a high millage, considering  how may times the accelerator pedal has been stepped-on and released. It can be roughly compared to a volume control that's gone scratchy from constant use, when it finally worked through its carbon track and makes intermittent contact.  I've known physical  steel throttle cable to last a lot longer than its electronic counter part but they do have a tendency to fray and get stuck inside its sleeve especially when going at high speed, which is kinda dangerous -even life threatening.  With the EPC system this will not happen, rather if the "electronic steel threads fray" the microprocessor shuts the system down by switching over to its stored alternative values.

Looking at the diagram for G188 and G187 it can clearly be seen that they share a common 5v supply (pin 91) and a common earth (pin97) with the outputs from pins 90 and 92 acting as inputs to the ECU microprocessor that control for the throttle valve actuator motor. These inputs are also constantly monitored by the ECU main Processor and its companion watchdog processor. Noting once again that G188 and G187 act as angle sensors much like that of the accelerator position senders. The concept and principal is exactly the same as that for the accelerator potentiometers. When any discrepancy is detected, a shutdown path is enabled which presents itself to the motorist as a car that won't rev. Then there is G61, the knock sensor. Any  knock higher or vibration outside of that expected by the ECU on pin 102 will also enable a shutdown path and sequence limp mode. 

Accelerator 6 pin plug and harness for VW, Golf, Skoda, Fabia, Audi etc.

Accelerator Pedal 6 Pin Plug Connector Wiring Harness for VW, Amarok, Beetle, Eos,
Lupo, Polo,Touareg, Sharan, Transporter, Electronic  - 3B0 972 706

Based on this, the inputs and outputs from these three components are vital to the correct functioning of any Drive-by-Wire vehicle. So when a fault occurs and guided by error codes, it is important to ensure that there is wired continuity between these components and the ECU connector. Wiring harnesses are subjected to a fair amount of shaking and can break inside of the PVC sleeving. Especially sensitive is the 6 pin Electronic Accelerator Pedal Plug Connector Wiring Harness for VW Polo, Golf, Audi, Skoda, Fabia. VW part number - 3B0 972 706. This replacement part needs to be soldered onto the  wiring harness after cutting off the original plug.

EPC HELP

EPC HELP Q & A

VW Beetle EPC problems. Audi EPC light, Audi Q7, Audi TT, car trouble, DTC, drive by wire, DTC memory, EPC, EPC dashboard light, EPC faults, EPC problem, accelerator pedal adaptation, Audi EPC Light problem, Audi Q7, audi TT, car trouble, crankshaft position sensor, drive by wire, dtc, DTC memory, EPC, EPC dashboard light, EPC faults, EPC problem, high pressure fuel pump, Limp Mode, throttle body, VW Beetle, wiring harness, O2 sensor,

Question?

My name is Lilian. I bought a 2001 Volkswagen Beetle a few months back. Now it loses power whenever that EPC light and check engine light switches on. Lately it happens more  often, so I switch it off and after a while start it again and it drives ok for only a few miles. I just cant go on like this, its upsetting to the point that I can cry. The VW Beetle club members say its the throttle body, so my friend replaced it for me.  It was really expensive from the agents so a got a used one from the junk yard. It fixed the problem, or rather so I thought because after about 200 miles the problem is starting again. Now I feel helpless. Pleeeez help me. Pleez Pleeez Pleez!

Answer!

Hi Lil sorry to hear about your troubles. As much as I would like to help you, you gave me way too little information to steer you in the right direction. A diagnostic scan of the VW would have really been helpful but since you don't have one, fixing it is going to mere guess work. EPC faults, can be solved by a process of elimination and since you replaced the throttle body and it lasted for 200 miles, without a problem, it is very likely that it was the throttle body that was faulty but the question is, did your friend do the adaptation so that the ECU can properly interface and control it? Sounds like this is your problem. You need to take it to a diagnostics equipt workshop to have the throttle body adaptation reset. I'm almost certain that would solve your problem.

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Question?

Me Zoe, I got Vw beetle, make power loss and make  EPC dashboard light on. I read  VW forum say was cause by brake light switch. I take my mechanic, he  say no fix, take  VW agents they recall VW Beetles with brake light switch problem. Me very lucky, VW agent replace it free but EPC problem no fix and now more worse. Happen every day. You me help. I you kiss.

 Answer!

Hello Zoe thank you, I am flattered that you want to kiss me. I have to tell you though, that the brake light switch has little to do with the EPC problem you are experiencing. The brake light normally has an influence on speedo-cruise and has nothing to do with EPC faults which are rather confined to the non-emission related components involved with fuel delivery and torque delivery. The variables are just too many to even guess what it could be. It could be one of many things that could be causing your problem. Even something as minor as a bit of dirt restraining your throttle control butterfly could cause a EPC problem.  Right now you problem could be anything from the crankshaft position sensor to the accelerator pedal position sensor. From your throttle body to the electrical connections, from your high pressure fuel pump to the ECU. I would suggest you have a  scan done then send it to me, perhaps we can try once again to define your EPC problem. I hope you understand my explanation. Cheers Zoe.

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Question?

Hola mi amigo, tengo un problema en el polo de mi mujer, y es que se queda al arrancarlo por la mañana del garaje o cuando esta una tarde entera como hoy en la calle que ya hace freskito, como si no subiese de revoluciones,como muy flojo, si le aceleras lo calas, o aveces hace pequeñas detonaciones por el escape, esto le dura unos 20 segundos y ya se espavila. Es un polo 1.4i 80cv, tiene 20milkm, y no ha tenido otro fallo. Posibilidades? 1º Yo creo que puede ser sensor de temperatura de inyeccion, aunque me funcione bien la abuja que mide la temperatura del agua?. 2º bobina? No se que mas podria ser, en dias normales, o si lo arrancas despues de 3 horas o 10 minutos ya va perfecto. Le meti el VAGCOM y no me dio ningun tipo de error. Espero vuestras respuestas

Answer!

Hola a ti. Primero quiero  decir, hablo espanol un poquito pero voy a probar ayudar. Sin error del VAGCOM es mas dificil decir. Apuesto a que es problema de encendido pero dudo es la bobina si le dura de problema porque es solo 20 segundos.  Posiblemente son los bujias o la RON de gasolina no es correcto o tienes agua en la gasolina. Pequeñas detonaciones por el escape no es normal especialmente baja 20milkm. ¿qué pasa con su recien garantía?

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Question?

Hello there, I hope you can shed some light on my problem, I'm having a mini crises with my Seat 1.8L Toledo. The EPC light came on yesterday, but when I turned the engine off and restarted, the EPC light went off and everything was fine until this morning. On my way to work  the car had a jerky/shudder and at that very moment the TC and EPC light came on and I lost power so that it would only rev to  2500 rpm. As a result I limped home them  I plugged in my VAGCOM. Very surprisingly there were no faults. So I decided to take the Toledo back on the road but when I turned on the ignition, the EPC/EM/TC lights came on. So once again I plugged  in my VAGCOM and the DTCs listed below was present. So I cleaned the Throttle Body and  checked the Throttle Body on group 060 and the adaptation field was showing 'ERROR'. What do I do now because I'm totally stuffed and need  a quick fix. Any light you can shed on this problem would be much appreciated.

VAGCOM: Chassis Type: 1M - Seat Leon/Toledo

Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 19 22 35 36 37 46 56

VIN: VSSZZZ1MZ3R1XXXXX Mileage: 164400km-102153miles

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Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AJQ.lbl

Part No: 06A 906 032 MJ

Component: 1.8L R4/5VT 01 0003 

Coding: 11510

Shop #: WSC 80179 

VSSZZZ1MZ3R1XXXXX SEZ7Z0C2XXXXX

4 Faults Found:

17967 - Throttle Body (J338): Fault in basic settings 

P1559 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17987 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Adaptation Not Started 

P1579 - 35-00 - - 

17579 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Implausible Signal 

P1171 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17951 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Small 

P1543 - 35-00 - - 

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Answer!

Hi Wayne, I'm glad to see that you uploaded your scan. Since the rest of your electronic modules have "No fault code found" beneath them, it essentially means that they are all OK. And seeing that you own a VAGCOM, I take it for granted that you may have had prior DTC which you erased. Erasing DTCs are OK but bear in mind that you also erase all values learnt by the ECU associated with your driving style including adaptation values.  The throttle body therefore needs to be re-adapted every time codes are cleared or control module  or battery power is disconnected. As the automatic adaptation software procedure runs, the control module learns the full range of throttle positions. So from what I can see above, the Idle Speed Control Throttle Position cannot be determined which could mean adaption needs to be done, or that the potentiometers in the throttle body may be near end of life. Overtime the slider wears through the carbon track so it makes intermittent contact and stymies the ECU. But before we condemn the throttle body, I need you to disconnect your battery at the earth terminal so that you can hard reset all the electronic modules. Make certain that the ignition is off  then reconnect the battery. Redo a scan and if all goes well, you will once again see your original 4 faults and 1  additional fault that looks something like "Supply Voltage Terminal 30: Signal Outside Specifications - attery/Generator supply faulty". This is absolutely normal because the ECU detected that the battery was disconnected. Plug in VAGCOM switch on the ignition but do not start the engine. Select VAGCOM 04-Basic Settings - which displays the Measuring Value Block screen. Select Measuring Value Block 060 (or 98) which displays the Basic Setting Value Block screen.  Channel 4 will display the word“Running” and other channels will display  the state of the throttle valve angle sensors but will change as the throttle is actuated by the ECM.  Please do not touch the throttle pedal nor turn  ignition key off during the adaptation because the throttle body adaptation relearn process is essential and may prevent the engine from starting if interrupted. If the adaptation was successful, Channel 4 will have changed from “Running” to “OK”. Display 3 would read "idle" and 1 & 2 display voltages levels, normally less than 5 Volts.  Logout, turn the ignition key off and wait about 1 minute seconds, to ensure that adaptation settings are saved then start the car. If however, it still shows "error" inspect the throttle body actuator connector contacts for damage or corrosion and make certain its contacts are secure then try to set adaptation again. If it still shows "error" clean the throttle body and check for wiring harness between the throttle body and the control module. Retry adaptation once again. As a last resort replace the throttle body because the potentiometers cannot be replaced as a separate item nor is it available for sale as a separate item. I hope this helps.