BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT

BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT

Wear and tear on any car is expected and is a natural part of everyday motoring. In most cases when a car goes to the VW service agents for a service, they will often advise on the condition of the brakes pads but very seldom if ever replace them. So it is very likely that your car's brakes pads may reach end of life somewhere between services. This means that you either have to take it back to the service agents for them to replace your vehicles brake pads and that at an exorbitant cost or you do it yourself. Considering that break pads are very straight forward to replace and can be done within and hour. Here I'm referring to the front brake pads. It is also very unlikely that all four brake pads will require replacement at the same time. On a level of 1 to 10 where 10 is the most difficult, Brake pad replacement weighs in at around 3. If you can change a tyre you should be able to replace your own car's brake pads because it has less than half the amount of bolts of one wheel. 

On my VW Polo 2.0L Highline each brake caliper is secured with only 2 bolts and I'm almost sure that goes for most other VW, Audi, Skoda and Seat vehicles too. The tools required is a 18 mm socket and a power bar, a jack, 2 jack stands and a wheel brace. Ok, perhaps a large hefty screwdriver with which to prize open the brake piston completely. 

The brake pad wear light is clearly visible right in the center of  the instrument cluster.

When my dash light came on I knew I only had 2 mm of brake lining left because the last time I fooled around with my VCDS software and my "Dual-K plus CAN interface cable", I specifically selected 2 mm before the warning is sounded. Anyway when the brake pad replacement light went on, I made my way to the VW service agents to get a set of brake pads because I was going to replace them myself.  As can be seen in the image below the brakes are genuine Volkswagen Brake pads made in India for VW, SEAT, and SKODA. 

Genuine Volkswagen  Brake Pads for 2.0L vehicles

The incorrect brake pads for a VW Polo 2.0L Highline

They weren't too expensive and considering what they do, they are actually worth every cent. The spares agent supplied the "correct brake pads" for a VW Polo 2.0L Highline and when I opened the box back home, I was convince they were the ones I needed because the brake pad box listed several other 2.0L VW vehicles amonst which are New Beetle / Cabrio 1998 - ...., Bora / Variant / 4 Motion 1997 - ..., Caddy 2004 - ..., Golf / Variant / 4 Motion 1997 - ..., Golf Plus 2005 - ..., Jetta 2005 - ..., Polo 2001 - ..., Polo Limousine (Stufenheck) 1996 - ..., Seat Altea 2004 - ..., Seat Ibiza 2002 - ..., Seat Leon 2000 - ..., Seat Toledo 1999 - ..., Skoda Fabia 2000 - ..., Skoda Roomster 2005 - ..., Skoda Octavia 1999 - ...  

I was always under the impression that the Skoda Octavia was the same as a VW Polo GTI hence I figured the brakes were the correct ones but I was mistaken. As luck would have it, when I stripped out the worn front brake pads  they were completely different from the  the new brake pads that I just bought. 

Worn brake pads with slightly less than 2 mm of bonding left.

So off I went back to the agents to get the correct brake pads. Unfortunately they didn't have any  so I had to get an OEM set elsewhere.  After much shopping around, I eventually found the correct ones made by Vika. They were an exact match to my sample brake pad.

The correct brake pads after the exchange

The correct Brake Pads for the VW Polo 2.0L highline

The correct brake pads with the sensor connector in the foreground

The three pads without brake pad thickness sensors.

Now that the I had the correct pads, I cleaned out the excess dust, squirted a bit of molyslip synthetic grease into the spring clips where the two little wings of the brake pad slides in, and fitted the new brake pads in like 45 minutes.  I connected the brake pad sensor plug and I made doubly sure that I torqued the bolts securing the calipers. I pumped the brake pedal a few times to make certain that the pistons advanced against the  brake pads and I even topped-up the brake fluid. After replacing the wheels, I was back on the road in a jiffy. It took me way longer to go buy and exchange the correct pads than it took to actually fit them.

The worn brake pad before it was removed

The caliper removed with excess dust removed.

The brake pad piston fully retracted with the anti rotating plate in place.

Resting the Caliper on top of the disc is quite convenient to fit the brake pads

The 2 new brake pads positioned in their grooved spring clips with sensor wire visible

New brake pads after it was fitted 

The new brake pad is clearly visible through the vent in the caliper

LEAKING METAL COOLANT PIPE

LEAKING METAL COOLANT PIPE

My 2007 VW Polo 2.0L Highline has just turned eight and it seems like she is going to start giving me  problems. Just yesterday, on my way back from Paarl, after driving a total round trip distance of approximately 300 Km, I was jolted to attention by the pong-pong sound of the dashboard alarm/buzzer. Looking at my VW Polo's instrument panel, saw the red thermometer symbol flashing on the cluster display  and the heat gauge was hovering around 100 degrees. The needle was lying just beneath the first red line in the gauge and I felt my heart throbbing in my throat. I immediately thought  the worst, that my cylinder head gasket may have popped, but lucky for me I was just a few hundred meters away from home and not on a deserted on an open road somewhere in the outback. Never in all the time I owned my VW Polo 2.0L Highline has anything like this ever happened. She currently has 105 ??? Km on her clock and is due to go for a major service soon, especially for the cam belt replacement. Considering I'm only averaging about 13 000 Km per annum, she has been put to very little use.

Anyway, because the instrument panel display symbol was flashing red, I kinda thought it was the oil light. I muttered to myself, that it can't be that the oil is low, because I checked it before the trip and even topped it up. Then I realized that the oil symbol is an oil-can, but that water is symbolized by a thermometer.  However  I drove my VW Polo 2.0L Highline into my driveway, switched off the engine and when I popped the bonnet I could hear hissing caused by the steam that was escaping. Yet, I couldn't see where it was steaming  from, though I saw a steady stream of green coolant running past my shoes.  I instinctively pulled out the dipstick and saw that  the oil level was normal and even more importantly that the oil was translucent and didn't look like dirty yoghurt, like when water gets into the oil. I then removed the PVC engine cover and saw a thin stream of green coolant squirting from the rubber hose that connects to the expansion tank at the point where it connects to a metal coolant pipe and held together with a spring loaded clamp. The thin stream of coolant didn't justify the amount of water streaming on the ground. I  thought it was a welsh plug that got pushed out by the water pressure, but it wasn't. After taking a closer look,  I saw coolant leaking from the junction where  the metal coolant pipe fits into a round hole in the engine block which is situated at the back end of the alternator, like right next to the metal housing that contains the thermostat,  with the rest of the pipe hiding behind the distributor pack and situated below the knock sensors.

Suddenly this all looked very familiar to me. I've had a similar problem with my 1999 Renault Megan Scenic a few years back. The leaking metal coolant pipe in question had two rubber O-rings in tandem around it, on the section that gets inserted into the round hole in the engine block. The rubber O-rings are the only two thing that prevents water from escaping. At the time I thought is was quite lame of Renault to design such a flimsy setup, instead of pressing a pipe stem into the engine block, to which a rubber hose could be clamped. Anyway, be that as it may, Volkswagen used the very same exact old concept used by Renault on their 1999 vehicle on a 2007 VW Polo, but with only one rubber O-ring.  I think it really sucks when some design feature that is commonly known to be troublesome is perpetuated in later models as impetus to a cash cow business model. VW must be selling millions of these metal coolant pipes per annum which is horrendously expensive considering that its just a cheap piece of mild steel  pipe. No rocket scientist was needed to design it, bend it, or spray it black. In fact a copper pipe equal in length costs less than one third of its price.

Be that as it may. The metal coolant pipe that protrudes from the engine block is in fact the only metal pipe in the entire cooling system and is made of such a thin metal that it will corrode to nothingness within a few years or less.  Besides the single rubber O-ring perishes from the engine heat and the cause of water and coolant leaks.  It is the weakest point of  failure in VW, Audi, Skoda and Seat vehicles, however  the trick is to keep the coolant to water ration at 50/50 or 1:1 since the coolant stems corrosion. But if for whatever reason the coolant ratio has a lot more water than coolant, then that metal coolant pipe just isn't going to last.  After going through the trouble of removing this pipe, I was tempted to make-up this pipe from copper pipe and copper fittings but since it is going to make contact with the engine block, corrosion of different metals in the presence of water is far worse than the corrosion between two metals of the same kind. 

The problem I had with my metal coolant pipe installation was that after I removed it, I discovered that it wasn't the correct part. The part number is 06A 121 065 E but there are like dozens of variations amongst which are the 06A121065 AR, or the 06A121065 BK, or the 06A121065AP, or 06A 121 065 N, or the 06A121065D that is used in the Audi A3 1.6, the Skoda Octavia 1.6, the VW Golf Mk IV 1.6, the VW Jetta IV 1.6, Seat Toledo  Mk II 1.6,   Seat Leon 1.6, Seat Ibiza Mk III 1.6, and  the 06A121065 Q and 06A121065 BD used in Audi TT's and other Audis.  Metal coolant pipe 03G121065H / 03L121065AJ / 03L 121 065 AJ are use in VW, Audi, Seat's and Skoda's, 06K121065L and 5Q0122291H used in VW Golf VII, 04L 121 065AJ  - 04L121065AJ is used in Audi A3, VW Golf 2.0 & + 1.6 L Diesel, 06B121065L is used in VW Passat, 06H121065 D are used in the Audi Q5 2.0 TFSI, Audi A4, B8, A5 and 8T.  06C121085F is used in the Audi A6 and A4 V6 3.0L Convertible. And the list goes no...

By looking at the picture of the two metal coolant pipes below, the difference between them are clearly visible even though they look alike. I could theoretically use this pipe, but the mounting bracket was in a different position, which meant I couldn't secure it properly, and I wasn't going to take a chance to fit it. The fact that the end of the pipe was a little longer and curved upwards were minor and totally surmountable. But it's best to get the identical replacement, so quote your cars VIN when buying it. Replacing this pipe is roughly a three hour job and its difficulty level is about a four and totally doable by the average hands-on DIY VW, Audi, Seat or Skoda owner.  Tools needed, are a grip pliers or water pump pliers to slacken off the water hose clamps, a 6 mm hex key to remove the distribution pack and bracket, a 7 mm hex key to remove the bolt marked as 10 on the cooling system diagram, a 14 mm socket and ratchet to remove the knock sensor bolts and a 4 mm torx to loosen the air filter. That's it.

It is only a matter of time before every VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda's cooling systems that sports this metal coolant pipe develops a leak. In my case the pipe was perforated beneath the rubber hoses with small holes that a nib of a pen could go through. In fact by just scratching the rust from inside the pipe with screw driver only made the holes bigger. It is inevitable that this metal coolant pipe is going to disintegrate through  rust because it is made of a far less durable metal than the engine block metal, besides the rubber hoses are bound to outlast this metal coolant pipe.  It would be worth your while to buy one of these metal coolant pipes and keep it in storage, because it is inevitable that this pipe is going turn to rust. When I went to the agents they had no stock and they could get one of two that were in stock at the factory within two days. This tells me this pipe is so popular that the agents get  sold out very quickly. In fact they only guaranteed this metal coolant pipe  for  24 months or  39 000 km or 24,000 miles. Yeah,  know that sucks... hard.

A word of warning though. Keep a magnet close-by when replacing this pipe because I dropped the allen key head bolt marked 10 on the cooling diagram somewhere below. I spent almost half and hour looking for this bolt but finally found it underneath the  clutch cable bracket on top of the gearbox. The screw rolled into a little crevice beneath the bracket and it cannot be seen from above.  This green coloured 7 mm  hex key headed bolt slipped from my hand while trying to screw it into position which is somewhat awkward  to get into position because of the clutch cable bracket obstruction. I searched beneath the car on the ground, between the front suspension mechanisms, stuck my fingers between the drive shaft and the engine, and all along the control arms and finally found it by using a magnet. Another thing that sucks, is that the long screw of the distributor pack bracket is made of some kind of  soft metal. I damaged its allen key head when I loosened it by hand, fortunately a 10 mm spanner also fits. The other two shorter screws are of a much harder metal. The images below gives you a fair idea of what it entails to replace this ye metal coolant pipe.  Remember when reassembling to re torque the Knock sensors and take care that the connector for knock sensor for cylinder 3 & 4 is turned away from the distributor pack bracket before tightening.

Water/coolant  leaks from the O-ring seal where it enters the engine block.

The coolant pipe runs along two sides of the engine block, 
right below the knock sensors.

The distributor pack unplugged. Be careful not to
break its clip when disconnecting

The distributor pack and plug wires clearly marked
with the first four letters of the alphabet

The distributor pack moved out of the way, sort of flipped-up.

As can be seen the long screw is different from the shorter black screws,
take care not to break of off on the engine block

The distruibutor pack bracket that straddles the coolant pipe. 

The Knock sensor for cylinders 3 & 4 removed after the distributor
pack was removed and positioned out of the way.

At the  90 degree bend of the coolant pipe with the knock sensor above it.

The coolant pipe is clearly visible and so is the rust that
poured out from the engine block.

The air filter must be removed to get the the mounting screw and the
rubber hoses at the end of the metal coolant pipe.

Removing the clamps that holds the rubber hose onto the metal coolant pipe.

The metal coolant pipe with the two rubber hoses disconnected.

This is the space where the metal coolant pipe resides. The two screw holes
for the knock sensors are clearly visible.

The cooling system of the VW Polo Classic. The metal pipe is coloured red.

The part number  06A121065 E is stamped on the wing that
aligns the distributor bracket.

The pipes are similar but the new one is slightly longer and curved upwards
at its end, yet have the same part number. The O-ring is   3mm x 20 mm

As can be seen, the mounting brackets on the two pipes doesn't correspond

KNOCK SENSORS

KNOCK SENSORS

Gone are the days when you could fix your own car with simply logic. Today you require digital logic, a scan tool  and a tech savvy mechanic to make sense of the latest cars because they are all very precisely controlled by electronic circuits. The Engine Control Module is just one such circuit and largely depends on several of its sub-circuits and associated automotive control modules to achieve the precision needed to propel the latest engines using high octane fuel, and burn it stoichiometrically in order to deliver the performance expected from these modern cars. But this is easier said than done because these sub-circuits and associated control modules rely on a number of inputs sensors and actuators distributed all over the engine and the car in general, to successfully control of the crank synchronous path.

In order for the ignition sub-system to function optimally for example, it requires feedback information about what is presently happening in the engine so that it can take corrective action if needs be, in real time. Likewise the fuel mixture sub-circuit can only determine if the mixture is rich or lean from the feedback information, then take corrective action to increase or decrease the quantity of fuel based on the amount of oxygen present. Like wise the crankshaft timing sub-circuit depends on feedback information and maintain a constant torque. Yet all three these ECM sub-circuits works very closely in conjunction with one another and other sub-circuits to achieve optimal performance. 

Restated, the ECM is in control of the torque and torque reduction circuits, which just happens to annoy the arse-mousse out of Volkswagen, Audi, SEAT and Skoda owners. It is commonly referred to as the EPC -Electronic Power Control. Essentially EPC is limp mode's best friend and vehicle owners worst enemy.  ECM torque reduction is handled via the crank synchronous path, and involve the  ignition system sensors, the knock sensors, and fuel mixture both short trim and long trim. 

Input signals are needed for calculating precise ignition timing:

1) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)  

2) Engine Speed Sensor (RPM)  

3) Throttle Control Valve Sensor  

4) Camshaft Position Sensors

5) Knock Sensors  

6) Accelerator pedal Position sensors


By monitoring the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT), the ECM varies the parameters of the engine as it heats up and maintains it when it has reached the correct operating temperature. 

By monitoring Engine Speed Sensor (RPM) the ECM can determine how many times the coils misfires per 1000 revolutions and how many times the injectors fail to deliver fuel. 

By monitoring the Throttle Control Valve Sensor the ECM can calculate the torque compared to how wide the throttle opens. 

By monitoring the Camshaft Position Sensors the ECM can better determine the exact time when the valves close and the exact point of ignition. 

By monitoring the  Knock sensors the ECM decides whether detonation is bad enough to take action, either  to retard / advance the engine or reduced the torque and consequently prevent engine damage. 

By monitoring the Accelerator Pedal Position sensors it can determine synchronicity between the position of the accelerator pedal when depressed and the throttle control valve and and discrepancy outside of its normal parameters will reduce the torque. 

KNOCK SENSORS

Knock sensors are very important to the overall engine torque because they detect combustion knocks in the individual cylinders. This is common when high octane fuel self ignites  which is generally known as knocking (detonation) or pinging (pre-ignition).
Knock sensors are piezo-electric components acts something like microphones do, but instead of picking up sound,  they detect vibrations in an engine which are needed by the ECM to correct the combustion process in the event of detonation or pinging.  This allows the ECM  to "retard" the engine so that it would work with different quality fuel. This implies that lower octane fuels are more prone to knock than higher octane fuels. It is therefore imperative to use the correct octane fuel prescribed for your vehicle since failure to do so can cause the EPC light to turn on and cause the vehicle to enter into limp mode.

TESTING KNOCK SENSORS

Four and six cylinder engines have 2 knock sensors each. Knock sensor 1 monitors the even bank of cylinders while Knock sensor 2 monitors  the odd bank of cylinders. W8 and W12 engine have 4 knock sensors each.  Knock sensor 1 monitors  cylinders  1 & 2, Knock sensor 2 monitors  cylinders 3 & 4, Knock sensor 3 monitors cylinder 5 & 6, and  Knock Sensor 4 monitors cylinder  7 & 8. Knock sensors are mounted directly on the crankcase and must be torqued. Failure to torque a knock sensor may cause it to malfunction and pickup engine vibrations as well as detonations.

The plug for Knock sensor (KS) 1 is normally green and it monitors cylinders  1 & 2, whereas the plug for Knock sensor (KS) 2 is normally grey and it monitors cylinders 3 & 4. Knock sensors are three pin devices with  Pin 1 = Signal, Pin 2 = Ground and Pin 3 = Shielding. Using a multimeter measure the resistance for "short circuit" between pins 1 and 2, then 1 and 3, then 2 and 3 at the Knock sensor connector. This measurements should always read infinity (open circuit).  If short circuit, replace knock sensor and make sure that it is correctly torqued to the crankcase.  Also check the wires for short circuit. If short circuit, replace. If a oscilloscope is available, connect it between pins 1 & 2 of the knock sensor. Tap the knock sensor lightly with a wrench, this should produce a fairly high frequency irregular sinusoidal waveform with a higher amplitude towards its middle. If there is no waveform coming out of the knock sensor its best to replace it because it will lead to a rise in fuel consumption and the engine management system may reverts to emergency knock control and reduce overall engine performance.

A CALL FOR EMISSIONS TESTING OF ALL MAKES OF MOTOR VEHICLES

A CALL FOR EMISSIONS TESTING OF ALL MAKES OF MOTOR VEHICLES  

By now, virtually everyone who owns a VW, Audi, Skoda or a Seat or those who don't, must  have heard about the Volkswagen AG emissions scandal. A scandal of global proportions  that rocked the entire automotive  industry and affects 11 million diesel powered vehicles as well as some 430 000 petrol powered vehicles, all of which were fitted with the now notorious "cheat device". Initially the Volkswagen management pleaded ignorance about said "cheat device" but later stepped up to the plate, admitting their liability and offering restitution to all VAG vehicle owners directly affected  by the "cheat device". 

This excludes you and me and all our fellow VW group vehicle owners who have also been compromised by Volkswagen's exploits, whether it was intentional or not. I'm specifically referring to all VAG vehicle owners loosing value on the vehicles since the scandal  broke, which is still dropping steadily.  According to Volkswagen we would just have to bite the bullet, but is offering to make a once off financial cash/voucher disbursement to all VAG vehicle owners directly affected by the "cheat device". Meanwhile, Governments from several countries are up in arms about their carbon credits, and instituting litigation against Volkswagen for the shortfall on taxation paid by consumers, because of the "doctored emission values.  Scandal mongers have been heckling and spreading rumours that the emissions problem, more than likely affect all of the 127 models of cars produced by Volkswagen. 

However, in my opinion, Volkswagen cannot be the only auto manufacturer that got their emissions figures to wrong, especially considering its global market share and its clout within the automotive industry. It gives the impression that someone out there is not too happy with Volkswagen for whatever reason and decided to set the wheels of blame, revenge, envy in motion. Having said that, there are rumours and allegations that other motor manufacturers used similar software  devices to cheat at emissions. However, none of them have come forward or owned up like Volkswagen did. Is it possible that the Kyoto protocol emission reduction agreements that were discussed over several years then ratified are unattainable, too presumptuous or just impossible to meet? If there is even the slightest truth in that, then all automotive manufactures would fall short of the target. Or is it that out of a class of x, Volkswagen is the only kid that failed. 

Evidently his cannot be true especially considering that German engineering impress and in many cases even exceeds their own expectations.  Based on this assumption, I call for emissions testing across the entire spectrum of motor vehicles, especially American cars because they were renown as gas guzzlers and where there is fire, is obviously a lot of smoke. With COP21 just a month away, it would be in the interest of all vehicle owners to demand that their preferred manufacture submit their cars for emission testing. It would be a great injustice to Volkswagen and VAG vehicle owners if all the manufacturers are guilty and only Volkswagen gets burnt in the process. Add you opinion below if you think that all motor manufacturers emissions figures needs to be scrutenized.

All these Vehicles were emission tested

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TRAPPED INSIDE VW POLO

TRAPPED INSIDE VW POLO

Believe it or not, I got locked inside my VW Polo and couldn't get out. The self lock was activated, and me pulling at the door release lever just had no effect. The locking indicator pin surfaced from hiding put retracted when I released the door lever. For the sake of clarity, let me start at the beginning.  In a previous blog, I mentioned that when my VW Polo 2.0 Highline sedan was returned from its 90 000 Km service, it came back with a stripped nut  that tightens the earth terminal of the battery. I suspected that it was the cause of intermittent loss of power steering and I was going to get round to replacing it, but I just didn't have the time. Yep, procrastination is an evil that does get the better of all of us at one time or the other. 

VW Polo 9N Fuse card

Anyway, getting locked inside my VW Polo on Saturday morning gave me a scare that I immediately went and replaced the entire terminal and not just the stripped nut. The previous evening, whilst driving home from movies, the dashboard lights on my VW Polo stopped working, it kinda just went dark. So when I arrived home, I started fiddling to determine why, and I discovered that the wipers and the indicators weren't working either. Must be a fuse I thought. So I went straight to the fuse box and whipped out  the scorecard. Seconds later I identified the fuse responsible for supplying the dashboard with power (marked with yellow arrow and see the powdery substance in fuse holder, it's most probably oxidation from condensation). I got out my multimeter and checked the 5A fuse (fuse 30) and as I suspected, it was open circuit, fused, blown. Oh crap, I didn't have a spare so the following morning, off I went to the auto spare to get a replacement.  It was rather hot so I opened my window about 10 cm before I took off. As I pulled away,  the  self  lock  engaged at the very moment I realized that I didn't  take my wallet. So I stopped, reversed back about the 100 meters I drove, switched off the engine pulled out the key, pulled the door handle and it wouldn’t  open. Pulling at the door release lever just raised the locking indicator pin put retracted when I released the door lever. I then reinserted the key, turned on the ignition, pressed the unlock button on the door, heard the door unlock, opened the door, jumped out, ran inside grabbed my wallet, got back into the Polo and off I went once again.  

VW Polo 9N Fuse holder

This time, I noticed that the auto lock engaged at about 40km ph. Thinking nothing of it, I arrived at the auto spares, switched off the engine, pulled out the key, pulled the door release lever and like before it wouldn't open.  And as before I reinserted the key turned on the ignition, pressed the door release yet nothing happened. I then realized that the ignition wasn’t on. So I attempted to start the engine and nothing happened. The battery terminal wasn't making contact, I came loose once again and the engine wouldn't start. By extension, there was also no power to the door electronics that operated the door. In desperation to get out, I even tried the fob remote unlock button even though I knew that without a battery connection the door electronics cannot open and neither power the motor that rolls down the electric windows. I was stuck inside. I figured if I could get my arm through the 10 cm opening, I could possibly open the door manually with the key. But the opening was too small or my arm too thick.  Now it was starting to get hot inside the Polo. My only other option was to ask a passer-by to unlock the door for me. So a few minutes later an elderly gentleman walked by, whom I alerted, and speaking through the window opening, and handing him the key   through the window opening, I asked him to unlock the door which he obligingly did.  

VW Polo 9N Fuse card

With the door open, my mind was racing, what if the window wasn't slightly open, meaning I wouldn't have been able to pass the key to anyone to open the door. I would have been trapped inside and helpless. The escalating heat would have got the better of me. I probably would have had to kick-in the driver-door window since it's the only door that actually has a key receptacle, so that I could unlock it from the outside. This made me wonder what would happen if the battery gets damaged or destroyed in a collision and I was injured inside and not able to break the window. I know that in the event of a crash when the airbags pop, the on-board software is configured to automatically unlock the doors, but what if the supply voltage to the indicators gets shorted in a crash causing that fuse in question  also to blow. Clearly this is a hazard, and I would think a small sealed backup battery like those used for alarm systems fitted inside the cockpit under the dash or the consol would be a good idea. I think the brave among you should try to replicate this problem on your vehicles by removing the 5A fuse in question and disconnect the battery then assess whether or not this is acceptable design or a reason to get into Volkswagen's face about it. They are already going through the pressures of their emissions scandal, and it really isn't nice to kick a dog when it's down.

AUDI OIL USAGE

EXCESSIVE OIL USAGE ON AUDI A4

In a previous blog Audi Oil Pump Problem - Audi A4 Engine Noise, I mentioned the benefits of using VW 503.00 Long Life Engine Oil, but it seems that I was also mislead by the VW propriety oil specification the expanse of which I was unaware. This is probably the reason why my sister's A4 2.0L 2007 engine gave up the ghost. But as they say in the legal circles, "Ignorance of the Law is no excuse". Apparently as long ago as the year 2000 increased requirements compelled vehicle manufacturers globally to reduce exhaust emissions, minimize their carbon footprint, and improve overall fuel economy. Since motor oil plays a crucial  role in meeting these requirements,  the API's (American Petroleum Institute) old petroleum-based motor oils standards was abandoned by VW in favour of advanced cutting-edge synthetic motor oil formulations. As a result, the technologically advanced Audi engine designs required a very specific motor oil that met with Audi quality specification. 

Its newer models fitted with advanced fuel injection systems needs to  be lubricated  by this very specific motor oil formulations in order to guarantee optimal system reliability and fuel economy. These oil specifications started with VW 500.00 for models prior to year 2000 which has been superceded by VW 502.00. Then there is  also  VW 503.00, VW 503.01, VW 504.00, VW 505.00, VW 505.01, VW 506.00, VW 506.01, VW 507.00, etc, each applicable to either or both gasoline and diesel Euro standard engines. But certain oil specs are not suitable for certain vehicles. For example RAVENOL WIV III SAE 5W-30 is not suitable for specification VW 506 01. Meaning Audi engines with LongLife Service (QG1): Diesel-Engines (R5-, V10 TDI Pumpe-Düse) with or without Diesel Particulate Filter.  As well as  Audi engines without LongLife Service: R5-, V10 TDI Pumpe-Düse with or without Diesel Particulate Filter.

Topping up with conventional motor oil that does not meet Audi oil quality standards is therefore risky because the wrong motor oils could cause damage to internal engine components, somewhat increase emissions, reduce fuel mileage, and very likely void applicable vehicle warranties. The vehicle is also bound to use excessive oil and tend to smoke a lot more.

Ravenol HPS 5W-30 oil meets the Audi oil quality standard 502 00 and is  recommended for Audi A4 2005/2006 and on Audi A3 models equipped with the 2.0 Liter Turbo engine with FSI. Their fuel pumps are driven directly off the engine camshaft and lubricated with engine motor oil.  By not using the approved Audi motor oil  these models are subject to premature engine wear which will result in a loud ticking valve noise  after the engine has warmed up to its  operating temperature.  

Ravenol VMP Audi Oil 2010 - meets the Audi 507 00 Oil Spec and is recommended for use on Audi A3 TDI and 2009 - on Audi Q7 TDI models equipped with a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF). Using non-approved Audi motor oil will results in increased oil consumption oil since it will be burning oil. Any non-approved TDI motor oils will clog the DPF  prematurely which is also  quite costly to replace. 

Since the VW oil specification and oil usage cannot be generalized across the Audi and Porsche ranges and old petroleum-based motor oils are no longer usable, it is no wonder that Audi owners are complaining about excessive oil use. Some Audi owners have driven as little as 600 miles or about 950 kilometers before the engine oil low light goes on and the buzzer drives  the m crazy. This is probably because they topped-up with non synthetic oil. Funny enough, Audi stresses the  point of not adding petroleum-based motor oil to its synthetic brands.

FOOL ME ONCE SHAME ON YOU; FOOL ME TWICE SHAME ON ME

VW SHAMED  TWICE SHAME FOR EMISSION CHEATING

Thus far Volkswagen AG, Audi AG and Volkswagen Group of America, Inc. and Volkswagen (VW) as a whole has gone through the mill for the EPA emissions scandal that broke on the 18 September 2015. They have suffered massive third-quarter financial losses. Legal injunctions have compelled them to recall 11 million vehicles fitted with the now notorious 2.0L TDI engine. They are obliged to repair them entirely at their own cost which could take at least two years. They had to set aside some 7 billion Euros as restitution and compensation to VAG vehicles owners whose vehicles will, as a result of the "cheat device", have  diminished performance and poorer fuel economy. They fired their heads of Research and Development and launched an internal investigation into the “rogue software engineers” responsible for fitment of "cheat device". They have even instated a new CEO, Matthias Mueller, the former  boss of Porsche to the helm, to steer them out of the arse mousse  that Volkswagen find themselves sinking into deeper day by day.

The largest Automobile manufacturer in the World.

As if this isn't enough,  US’s Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) just notified Volkswagen Aktiengesellschaft of a second breach of clean air legislation. On the 2nd  November 2015, the EPA issued them with a second notice of violation (NOV) of the Clean Air Act. This NOV alleges that VW developed and installed defeat mechanisms in model years 2014 through 2016 VW, Audi and Porsche light duty diesel vehicles equipped with 3.0 liter V6 TDI engines. The harmful nitrogen oxide (NOx) emissions produced by diesel engines fitted in the 2014 VW Touareg, the 2015 Porsche Cayenne, and the 2016 Audi A6 Quattro, A7 Quattro, A8, A8L, and Q5, appear to exceed the EPA’s standard by at least nine times. 

3.0 Liter V6 TDI Engine

In their own defence VW emphatically denied the charges of fitting the “cheat device” into its luxury brand of vehicles. However the following day  VW admitted that certain “unexplained inconsistencies” had been found during the testing process for CO2 emissions. VW added that approximately 800,000 vehicles are currently thought to be involved, most of them sold in Europe.  But some of the vehicles now involved have petrol engines, implying that the scale of the second  installment of the emission scandal could be much greater than initially assumed. 

Suddenly the “credibility” of the “rogue software engineers” argument just fades into obscurity. It is just to outlandish, flimsy and too incredulous now that Porsche and other luxury brand of vehicles are also involved. This boils down to down-right systematic manipulation and rigging of emissions test data by VW in order to gain themselves and unfair and an illegal  competitive advantage over its competitors. These latest developments just tarnished Volkswagen’s reputation and future sales even further, perhaps irreparably.  But to regain any sort of confidence and trust from both customers and investors, Volkswagen would have to make some radical changes to its management  and come clean. 

Considering that for the first time Toyota sales has overtaken that of VW.  And that Volkswagen  will forfeit all its CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy)  carbon credits, and have to pay the taxation difference between the lower vehicle tax that  VW’s customers have unwittingly paid and what was actually due. Besides  getting grilled at COP 21 on the 7- 8 December 2015 for fooling the rest of the world twice.  And to add insult to injury, VW sales across all models, including petrol engines sales dropped by almost 10% since October 2015. Credit ratings agencies Moody’s and S&P have downgraded VW and three other major ratings agencies have VW on negative watch considering further downgrades. What a  deal breaker!

AUDI OIL PUMP PROBLEM

AUDI A4 ENGINE NOISE

For the past week my sister's Audi A4 2.0L 2007 has been having issues. When it starts its engine sounds like a tractor engine but after about 15 secs it quietens down and sounds and idles perfectly normal. Ever since its engine oil and oil filter change some seven weeks ago by her friend. The "Engine oil pressure light" keeps turning on, after some 20 minutes of driving, accompanied by a beep from the pizzo electric buzzer. Thereafter  it repeatedly  triggers  unexpectedly,  actually giving her a fright every time it does. I ran a scan with VCDS and there was absolutely no sign of engine trouble or DTC from the engine. Except for ABS signal out of specification fault which is totally unrelated to oil pressure. So since there was no problem other than the engine  Engine oil pressure light that triggered daily she decided to drive the Audi in that condition and tolerate the beeping. 

I inquired about the oil that they used, thinking perhaps that if the  grade of oil was too thick, it would affect the oil flow and pressure.  She fetched the container which still had some oil in it from the garage to show me what it was and on inspecting the viscosity of the oil between my thumb and forefinger I was amazed by the crap they sell unsuspecting customers. It turned out that she bought SAE 10W/20 oil at the local supermarket off the automotive shelf because it was going cheap. The oil was so thin, it was virtually like water, it couldn't even form a drop at the end of my finger. I even asked her if they mixed paraffin with the oil and she said no. I looked at the writing on the container to see if it wasn't two stoke oil for lawnmowers but it wasn't. 

Audi A4 Oil Pump (Old Top - New Bottom)

I then knew that this was the cause of the problem. The oil was too thin and the oil pump had difficulty in getting enough oil to the cams, bushes and gears  resulting in the noise caused by excessive friction during the the first 15 seconds when started. I actually thought that the oil may be too thick, so that the  oil pump couldn't push through the required volume of oil per minute. After telling her what an idiot she was to buy this cheap crap oil, I begged her to get some VW 50300 Long Life Engine Oil from the Audi agents.  I even offered to drain the crap oil out her Audi, flush the engine, replace the oil filter and fill it with the correct oil. The VW 50300 Long Life Engine Oil does cost a lot more than regular oil put it has the advantage of 30000 km before the next change. Fortunately it costs less than VW Automatic Transmission Fluid

So after replacing the filter and filling up with the new oil, the Audi now sounds a lot better but it is still noisy. Not as loud as it was before and the duration of the noise reduced from 15 seconds to about 4 seconds. Its  going to cost her a new oil pump replacement within the next week or so, because driving with a suspect oil pump is asking for the engine to seize and heaven alone knows what that's going to cost to repair.