HEATER FAN BLOWER MOTOR TANDEM RESISTOR

HEATER FAN BLOWER NOT WORKING

With Winter looming in the Northern Hemisphere and Summer looming in the Southern Hemisphere, our car air conditioners are going to be in big demand very soon. On a really hot day the temperature down here in the Cape can easily rise to 35 degrees celsius and the inside of any car would be roughly 3-4 degrees more. That's the kind of discomfort nobody has signed up for. The converse is just as true, I remember when I was in Germany a few years back, during November the temperature dropped right down to minus 24 degrees celsius and whilst in France it was around minus 4 degrees or less most mornings. Trying to brave such weather conditions without on-board creature comforts borders on insane. So while the temperatures hasn't peaked yet, there is still time to get your fan/blower fixed. 

Of late, somehow several VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda owners have been having issues with the fan/ac/blower not working or not working properly. On a previous blog I failed to add the fan/blower issue to the list of common problems, but believe me it is. Below are some questions asked by a few VW owners regarding their respective VW vechicle refering to the fan/AC/Blower motor.  Well the culprit is normally the Heater Fan Blower Motor Tandem Resistor with OE/OEM Number 6Q0959263A / 6Q0959263/6Q0 959 263 A, manufactured by Hans Pries. Alternatively the Hella brand replacement part with  part number 5HL 351 321-301 or 5HL351321-301. 

The speed of the 12V blower motor is controller via this series "blower resistor". It's a wire wound ceramic resistor and it does get quite hot on speeds position 1, 2 and 3. In the last position the resistor is bypassed. So if you blower isn't working on every speed it is most likely the resistor. However if you have an A/C with  a four speed switch and the blower doesn't work on any of its 4 positions, then its most likely the ground wire that's loose, burnt, poor contact, intermittent. Look behind the fan switch, there is a large 4 pin white molex connector and when its ground wire overheats, it looks discoloured, sort of lightly toasted and sometimes makes intermittent contact. On some models the motor is electrically isolated, so connect a jumper between the car body and motor earth, just to test. If the connector is faulty, the motor with spin. If it doesn't spin, check for 12V DC supply on the Red/White wire with a multimeter, if there is no supply voltage, check the fuse and the heater relay. 

BLOWER SWITHC CONECCTIONS

Red/Black - 12V supply to switch from fuse/relay box
Black/White - position 1
Yellow/Black - position 2
Yellow - position 3
Brown - from blower motor to ground/earth

Red/white - 12V supply 
Blue - position 1
Green - position 2
Black - position 3
Red - position 4 
Brown - from blower motor to ground/earth

Blower motor series resistor can be found in the glove compartment on some models

Question:

My heater fan doesn't seem to be working properly, I can feel a small amount of air blowing but I don't hear the blower motor. Please help me!

Answer: 

Read the blog!

Question:

Just bought an Audi A2 2005 and discovered defroster/heat/AC doesn't work. Is this major or should I cancel the sale? 

Answer: 

Read the blog! 

Question:

I have problem with my Jetta fan/blower that stops working, it just switched off after only owning car for two months.  No DTC codes!

Answer: 

Read the blog!

Question:

I recently noticed my interior heater/fan was becoming weak, and stops altogether at low speeds. Must I replace the motor.

Answer: 

Its very likely that the motor brushes has reached end of life. I think a new pair will give you blower a new lease on life. You didn't indicate what car you have, because yours  motor can possibly be of the  sealed type, meaning you would have to replace the motor if and only if you've exhausted the above.

Question:

My Golf's fan/blower works OK, but  after a while it makes a really loud noise like its struggling to keep turning and then it switches off. However when I hit a speed bump in the road it gives me a fright when it just turns back on. Can you help?

Answer: 

Read the blog!

Question:

Just bought a VW caddy and the fan/blower seems lazy and makes a noise that varies between loud and quite, previous owner says there is a leaf that fell down the ducting and lying on the fan. I'm not convinced because sometimes when I turn on the blower, it doesn't blow at all. Any suggestions?

Answer: 

Read the blog!

The heater fan blower motor resistor is one of those items that works on a great many VW, Audi, Skoda and SEAT cars. The list below gives you some idea  how common the problem really is. When you suspect that your heater fan thermal resistor has gone faulty make certain the part number is the same as the one you replacing it with because there is a fair amount of variation  even though there is a degree of compatibility.

Audi, SEAT, compatibility list

SEAT and Skoda compatibility list

SEAT, Skoda and VW compatibility list.


AUDI A2 (8Z0) 1.2 TDI, AUDI A2 (8Z0) 1.4, AUDI A2 (8Z0) 1.4 TDI,  
AUDI A2 (8Z0) 1.4 TDI,  AUDI A2 (8Z0) 1.6 FSI,  


SEAT CORDOBA (6L2) 1.2,  SEAT CORDOBA (6L2) 1.2 12V,  
SKODA FABIA (6Y2) 1.0,  SKODA FABIA (6Y2) 1.2,  SKODA FABIA (6Y2) 1.2,  
VW FOX (5Z1) 1.2,  VW FOX (5Z1) 1.4,  VW FOX (5Z1) 1.4 TDI,  VW POLO (9N ) 1.2,  

SEAT CORDOBA (6L2) 1.4 16V,  SEAT CORDOBA (6L2) 1.4 16V,  
SEAT CORDOBA (6L2) 1.4 16V,  SEAT CORDOBA (6L2) 1.4 TDI,  
SEAT CORDOBA (6L2) 1.4 TDI, SEAT CORDOBA (6L2) 1.4 TDI,  
SEAT CORDOBA (6L2) 1.6, SEAT CORDOBA (6L2) 1.6 16V,  
SEAT CORDOBA (6L2) 1.9 SDI,  SEAT CORDOBA (6L2) 1.9 TDI,  
SEAT CORDOBA (6L2) 1.9 TDI,  SEAT CORDOBA (6L2) 2.0,  
SEAT IBIZA IV (6L1) 1.2 12V,  SEAT IBIZA IV (6L1) 1.4 16V,  
SEAT IBIZA IV (6L1) 1.4 TDI,  SEAT IBIZA IV (6L1) 1.4 TDI, 
SEAT IBIZA IV (6L1) 1.6 16V,  SEAT IBIZA IV (6L1) 1.8 T Cupra R,  
SEAT IBIZA IV (6L1) 1.9 TDI Cupra R,  SEAT IBIZA IV (6L1) 1.9 TDI Cupra R,  
SEAT IBIZA V (6J5) 1.2,  SEAT IBIZA V (6J5) 1.4,  
SEAT IBIZA V (6J5) 1.4 TDI,  SEAT IBIZA V (6J5) 1.9 TDI,  
SEAT IBIZA V (6J5) 1.9 TDI,  SEAT IBIZA V SPORTCOUPE (6J1) 1.2,  
SEAT IBIZA V SPORTCOUPE (6J1) 1.4,  SEAT IBIZA V SPORTCOUPE (6J1) 1.4 TDI,  
SEAT IBIZA V SPORTCOUPE (6J1) 1.9 TDI,  SEAT IBIZA V SPORTCOUPE (6J1) 1.9 TDI,  

SKODA FABIA (6Y2) 1.4,  SKODA FABIA (6Y2) 1.4 16V,  SKODA FABIA (6Y2) 1.4 16V,  
SKODA FABIA (6Y2) 1.4 TDI,  SKODA FABIA (6Y2) 1.4 TDI,  
SKODA FABIA (6Y2) 1.4 TDI,  SKODA FABIA (6Y2) 1.9 SDI,  
SKODA FABIA (6Y2) 1.9 TDI,  SKODA FABIA (6Y2) 1.9 TDI RS,  
SKODA FABIA (6Y2) 2.0,  SKODA FABIA 1.2,  SKODA FABIA 1.2,  
SKODA FABIA 1.4,  SKODA FABIA 1.4 TDI,  SKODA FABIA 1.4 TDI,  
SKODA FABIA 1.6,  SKODA FABIA 1.9 TDI,  SKODA FABIA Estate (6Y5) 1.2,  
SKODA FABIA Estate (6Y5) 1.2,  SKODA FABIA Estate (6Y5) 1.4,  
SKODA FABIA Estate (6Y5) 1.4, SKODA FABIA Estate (6Y5) 1.4 16V,  
SKODA FABIA Estate (6Y5) 1.4 16V,  SKODA FABIA Estate (6Y5) 1.4 16V,  
SKODA FABIA Estate (6Y5) 1.4 TDI,  SKODA FABIA Estate (6Y5) 1.4 TDI,  
SKODA FABIA Estate (6Y5) 1.4 TDI,  SKODA FABIA Estate (6Y5) 1.9 SDI,  
SKODA FABIA Estate (6Y5) 1.9 TDI,  SKODA FABIA Estate (6Y5) 2.0,  
SKODA FABIA Estate 1.2,  SKODA FABIA Estate 1.2,  
SKODA FABIA Estate 1.4,  SKODA FABIA Estate 1.4 TDI,  
SKODA FABIA Estate 1.4 TDI,  SKODA FABIA Estate 1.6,  
SKODA FABIA Estate 1.9 TDI,  SKODA FABIA Praktik 1.2,  
SKODA FABIA Praktik 1.2,  SKODA FABIA Praktik 1.4,  
SKODA FABIA Praktik 1.4 TDI,  SKODA FABIA Praktik 1.9 SDI,  
SKODA FABIA Saloon / Sedan (6Y3) 1.2,  SKODA FABIA Saloon / Sedan (6Y3) 1.2,  
SKODA FABIA Saloon / Sedan (6Y3) 1.4,  SKODA FABIA Saloon / Sedan (6Y3) 1.4,  
SKODA FABIA Saloon / Sedan (6Y3) 1.4 16V,  SKODA FABIA Saloon / Sedan (6Y3) 1.4 16V,  
SKODA FABIA Saloon / Sedan (6Y3) 1.4 16V,  SKODA FABIA Saloon / Sedan (6Y3) 1.4 TDI,  
SKODA FABIA Saloon / Sedan (6Y3) 1.4 TDI,  SKODA FABIA Saloon / Sedan (6Y3) 1.4 TDI,  
SKODA FABIA Saloon / Sedan (6Y3) 1.9 SDI,  SKODA FABIA Saloon / Sedan (6Y3) 1.9 TDI,  
SKODA FABIA Saloon / Sedan (6Y3) 2.0,  SKODA ROOMSTER (5J) 1.2,  
SKODA ROOMSTER (5J) 1.2,  SKODA ROOMSTER (5J) 1.4,  
SKODA ROOMSTER (5J) 1.4 TDI,  SKODA ROOMSTER (5J) 1.4 TDI,  
SKODA ROOMSTER (5J) 1.6,  SKODA ROOMSTER (5J) 1.9 TDI,  

VW POLO (9N ) 1.2,  VW POLO (9N ) 1.2 12V,  VW POLO (9N ) 1.2 12V,  
VW POLO (9N ) 1.4 16V,  VW POLO (9N ) 1.4 16V,  VW POLO (9N ) 1.4 16V,  
VW POLO (9N ) 1.4 FSI,  VW POLO (9N ) 1.4 TDI,  VW POLO (9N ) 1.4 TDI,  
VW POLO (9N ) 1.4 TDI,  VW POLO (9N ) 1.6 16V,  VW POLO (9N ) 1.8 GTI,  
VW POLO (9N ) 1.8 GTi Cup Edition,  VW POLO (9N ) 1.9 SDI,  VW POLO (9N ) 1.9 TDI,  
VW POLO (9N ) 1.9 TDI,  VW POLO Saloon / Sedan 1.4,  VW POLO Saloon / Sedan 1.4,  
VW POLO Saloon / Sedan 1.4 TDI,  VW POLO Saloon / Sedan 1.9 SDI,


VW Golf 3 blower resistor
VW Amrok blower resistor
VW Sharan blower resistor
VW Touareg blower resistor
VW Touareg blower resistor
VW Polo blower resistor
VW Audi blower resistor
VW Fabia blower resistor
VW Ibiza blower resistor
VW Passat blower resistor
VW Skoda blower resistor
VW Seat blower resistor
VW Transporter blower resistor
VW Transporter blower resistor

6Q0959263A / 2D0959263 / 1K0959263A / 701959263B / 701959263D / 7L0907521B / 7L0907521 / 7L0907521A / 7L0907521B / 701959263A / 3C0907521E / 3C0907521F 1K2820015F / 6Q2907521B / 8D1820021 / 1J0819022 / 8K0820521B / 1J0819022A
74024583 / 8D0959263 / 1JO907521 / 1J0819022A 7E0959263C / 6Q0959263A / 

1J0819022A / 

HOW TO FIX AN EPC PROBLEM - CONTINUED

HOW TO FIX AN EPC PROBLEM, - CONTINUED

The final note on the preceding blog installment ended on 'scan for Diagnostic Trouble  Codes with a scan tool'. However before we start scanning it is important to note, that Vehicles from year 2000 are fitted with an EPC (Electronic Power Control) system, hence this exposée only applies to cars fitted with a obdii 16 pin female connector, identifiable by its  normally purple core, roughly the same purple of the 6-pin mini-DIN connector  of a personal computer keyboard.  This EPC system / Drive-by-Wire circuit (implying no throttle cable) is also known as the torque circuit. The EPC system controls the EPC light  which turns on if and when there is the slightest malfunction  in the Drive-by-Wire circuit. Any such fault will more than likely generate a DTC (fault code) in the ECM, which is stored in its non-volatile memory, meaning even if the battery is disconnected afterwards the DTC (fault codes) will persist. However, also note that when the battery is disconnected all driver learnt values particular to your driving style, will be erased. Disconnecting the battery may require resetting the convenience electronics, such as alarm, interior lights and the radio. So, most importantly if you don't have the radio code, practice caution because the radio will permanently lock-up hence it's a good idea to use a jumper battery or perhaps even a battery charger to maintain battery power whilst replacing a battery. Or get the code from your service center.

Whilst any problem in the torque circuit is  normally responsible for turning on the EPC light,  the EPC light may also turn on for some other non-emission related engine faults.  When a combination of emission-related and EPC-related fault is encountered, both the MIL and EPC lights may turn on. This alone give one a good idea of whether or not the engine problem is purely torque related or part of an emission-relate issue.

Most pure torque circuit EPC faults are accompanied by Limp-Home Mode which revolve around the basic settings for the Electronic Throttle Control Valve Adjuster, Idling Control, EPC Adaptation and the  Accelerator Pedal Position Senders. Their values are stored in the ECU normally from group 60 - group 62 of the Bosch ME 7 and newer ECUs, however the actual group may vary subject to make, model and engine capacity of the vehicle. For example. Jetta, Polo, Audi TT, etc, EPC adaptation exists at group 060 - group 062, whereas these values may be stored in group 098 for some VW Passat and Audi A4, S4, B5.

Group=060, Adaptation Epc-system
Group=061, Epc-system (1)
Group=062, Epc-system (2)

Emergency Running or Limp-Home Mode

Both Bosch Motronic and Siemens Simos ECU have two emergency running modes to compensate for accelerator pedal sender failure. The first mode triggers when the primary sender G79 (Sender -1) accelerator pedal sender fails, and the second mode triggers when both G79 and G185 (Sender -2- redundant sender) accelerator pedal senders fail. In the first case with one accelerator pedal sender failing, the accelerator position is limited to a predefined value (limp mode) idling speed while some comfort functions will be disabled,  the Air Conditioner for example. By which time EPC light would have already illuminated. However, when the second emergency mode triggers the engine runs only at idle speed. It would be exactly like disconnecting / removing the accelerator pedal completely. On the occasion that I replaced my accelerator pedal, I started the engine and to my surprise it started perfectly normal and idled at a normal rev. So the conclusion is when both accelerator pedal senders / potentiometer fail, it gives you the same, exact, identical symptoms of a physical steel accelerator cable that snapped. Considering a throttle cable is the single most important part of the throttle system in a car engine. So when it breaks the car will idle, but will not rev. The EPC system mimics the pysical cable exactly or as near as dammit.

Siemens Simos ECU J361 with pin connections

Looking at the diagram for accelerator pedal senders G79 and G185, pins 50 and 19 are inputs from their respective highside driver 5V supplies with pins 18 and 45 of the ECU microprocessor are their independent internal earth connections. The two variable voltages at pins 51 and 64 are the inverse of on another. Essentially G185 (secondary) is working as a backup to G79 (primary). Inputs at pins 51 and 64 are constantly monitored by the ECU microprocessor could range from sporadic to too high or too low, to intermittent to absolutely not there. The  ECU microprocessor with its built-in Watchdog Supervision Safety Logic monitoring performing plausability checks for voltage regulation, Over/Under voltage levels, intermittent voltage levels. If for any reason that the calculations based on its internal algorithms do not correspond to its internally stored and expected values either the watchdog processor or the  Main Processing Element enable   a secondary shutdown path to all equipment under its control. In a nutshell, limp mode.

Constant movement of the gold plated contacts on the potentiometer slider eventually wears through and becomes intermittent especially if the vehicle has attained a high millage, considering  how may times the accelerator pedal has been stepped-on and released. It can be roughly compared to a volume control that's gone scratchy from constant use, when it finally worked through its carbon track and makes intermittent contact.  I've known physical  steel throttle cable to last a lot longer than its electronic counter part but they do have a tendency to fray and get stuck inside its sleeve especially when going at high speed, which is kinda dangerous -even life threatening.  With the EPC system this will not happen, rather if the "electronic steel threads fray" the microprocessor shuts the system down by switching over to its stored alternative values.

Looking at the diagram for G188 and G187 it can clearly be seen that they share a common 5v supply (pin 91) and a common earth (pin97) with the outputs from pins 90 and 92 acting as inputs to the ECU microprocessor that control for the throttle valve actuator motor. These inputs are also constantly monitored by the ECU main Processor and its companion watchdog processor. Noting once again that G188 and G187 act as angle sensors much like that of the accelerator position senders. The concept and principal is exactly the same as that for the accelerator potentiometers. When any discrepancy is detected, a shutdown path is enabled which presents itself to the motorist as a car that won't rev. Then there is G61, the knock sensor. Any  knock higher or vibration outside of that expected by the ECU on pin 102 will also enable a shutdown path and sequence limp mode. 

Accelerator 6 pin plug and harness for VW, Golf, Skoda, Fabia, Audi etc.

Accelerator Pedal 6 Pin Plug Connector Wiring Harness for VW, Amarok, Beetle, Eos,
Lupo, Polo,Touareg, Sharan, Transporter, Electronic  - 3B0 972 706

Based on this, the inputs and outputs from these three components are vital to the correct functioning of any Drive-by-Wire vehicle. So when a fault occurs and guided by error codes, it is important to ensure that there is wired continuity between these components and the ECU connector. Wiring harnesses are subjected to a fair amount of shaking and can break inside of the PVC sleeving. Especially sensitive is the 6 pin Electronic Accelerator Pedal Plug Connector Wiring Harness for VW Polo, Golf, Audi, Skoda, Fabia. VW part number - 3B0 972 706. This replacement part needs to be soldered onto the  wiring harness after cutting off the original plug.

HOW TO FIX AN EPC PROBLEM

HOW TO FIX AN EPC PROBLEM

Electronics have taken the motor industry by storm, so-much-so, that electronic black boxes and discrete components have come to replace several mechanical systems. Case in point, Drive-by-Wire system, where a mechanical cable is replaced by an EPC (Electronic Power Control) system. Or a shared coil or carburetor is replaced by a set of individual electronically controlled coils or electronically controlled injectors, respectively . As a result, providing us with increased safety features, tighter and better engine control, additional creature comforts, convenience and so much more. 

Virtually every system in the modern day car is digitally controlled by a some Electronic control Unit (ECU) or a bank of dedicated on-board computers  distributed throughout the car, all of them networked to a Central Bus System. There are numerous bus systems used in electronics but CAN bus developed by Robert Bosch in 1986, has quickly gained acceptance into the automotive and aerospace industries. With the continued development of more complex ECU applications,  much larger quantities of data needed to be  processed, scores of more signals needed to be measured, and a growing number of other parameters needed to be optimized. 

CAN bus was the answer to surmount these problems though it is essentially a serial bus protocol used to inter connect individual sub systems and sensors as an alternative to conventional multi-wire looms. In a nutshell, cars have gone electronic processors, is firmware based, software driven and data analysed, artificially semi-intelligent and electronically complex.  All of a sudden automotive mechanics needed to learn loads of new words like microprocessor, microcontroller, quantitative analysis, electronic engine-management systems, potentiometers, sensors, signal processing, frequency response, memory-mapped  let alone how their individual functions. 

To add insult to injury, abbreviations like Controller Area Network (CAN), CPU (central processing Unit), RAM (Random Access Memory), EPROM (Electronically Programmed Read Only Memory), LAN  (Local Area Network), ADC (Analogue to Digital Converter), distributorless ignition system (DIS), etc, just flooded the motor vehicle repair market. 

Talking about abbreviations, EPC, is the official abbreviation for Electronic Power Control when referring to the Drive-by-Wire Torque circuit,  though it also stands for Electronic Pressure Control when referring to the Automatic Transmission.  When the Torque control EPC circuit fails for whatsoever reason, the  EPC Warning Light (K132) located in the instrument cluster lights up, which then could cause the car to enter into "limp mode", depending on the severity of the problem. Limp mode is a protective state that the car's ECU enters into when it recognizes that there is a problem with it's logic program. 

For example, when an expected signal value originating from a sensor varies significantly from the predetermined program  specification, the ECU then enters into a secondary/ emergency programme in order to protect the engine / transmission from damage. The ECU is constantly expecting a regular stream of signal values from various sensors, like for example the Throttle Position Sensor, or the Mass air Flow Sensor, or the Engine Speed Sensor, or the temperature sensor, etc. As long as these signals stay within specified parameters for certain operating conditions, the ECU performs faultlessly at controlling the engine. 

Due to  the rapid expansion of electronics in motor vehicles, automotive mechanics in general were over whelmed by the introduction of this new evolution in technology and as a consequence didn't stay abreast of automotive electronics, thus now seem to have great difficulty in solving electronic problems on client's cars. Replacing parts indiscriminately with the hope that they get lucky and that the actual faulty component is among the suspected parts that were replaced.  

Many, many, many VW, Audi, Skoda, and Seat owners can testify to this, since most have first hand experience of taking their vehicles into the service agent, only to get the car back after having to foot an enormous bill for replacement parts that probably weren't faulty in the first place, only to discover later that the problem the car was taken-in for, still persists.  EPC problems essentially have most VW "mechaicians" by the short and curlys.  But an EPC problem is not that difficult to eliminate if checked systematically instead of trying to trace it by replacing components by substitution.

DESCRIPTION OF HOW THE EPC WORKS

When the ignition is initially switched on, the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) performs a quick self diagnosis of all components that are important for the correct functioning of the Electronic Power Control. If all components pass the  diagnostic test the EPC light goes out. However, should  the Electronic Power Control (EPC) Warning Light not light-up when ignition is switched on, or if a  malfunction  is detected in Electronic Power Control system whilst the engine is idling, the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) will turn on the Electronic Power Control (EPC) Warning Light, sort of constantly.  When this happens, a DTC entry is made in the Motronic Engine Control Module, then its time to scan for Diagnostic Trouble  Codes with a scan tool.

NB! 

EPC also stands Electronic Power Control but also stands for  Efficient Power Conversion (EPC), Emergency Power Cut (EPC), Error Protection Code  (EPC), Event Process Controller (EPC), Embedded Personal Computer (EPC), Embedded Programe Controller (EPC), Erasable Programmable Chip,  Electronic Page Composition (EPC), Editorial Processing Center (EPC), Electronic Publishing Center (EPC), Energy Performance Certificate (EPC), Engineering, Procurement and Construction (EPC), Earnings per Click (EPC), Electronic Pressure Control (EPC), Electronic Product Code  (EPC), Enterprise Planning and Control (EPC), Every Penny Counts (EPC), Earth Population Control (EPC), Enhanced Power Control (EPC), 

....To continue.....

VW/AUDI ENGINE/ RADIATOR COOLING FAN CONTROL MODULE

VW/AUDI ENGINE/ RADIATOR COOLING FAN & CONTROL MODULE

The radiator is an integral part of each and every VW, Audi, Skoda and Seat vehicle. Its main objective is to keep the engine oil cool which in turn keeps all the moving parts of the engine cool. Most cars have a radiator fan with a separate fan for the air conditioner however, VAG vehicles have an integrated Radiator and Condenser Fan Assembly,  as can be seen in the image below. Be that as it may, it is not a one size fits all situation. Virtually every VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda vehicle category has a slightly different fan which is very evident when looking at the different three character alphanumeric prefix and the alpha suffix in their part numbers. View the list below to see what I mean.

Radiator and Condenser Fan Assembly.  The fan on the right is 360mm in diameter
with a 4-pin main connector rated at 300W.  The fan on the left is 295mm  with a 2-pin
female connector, and rated at 200W. 

The flip side of the Radiator and Condenser Fan Assembly

Be aware that a VW Polo 9N and 6R have different fans, an Audi A3 and a Q7 have different fans, a Skoda Fabia and a Roomster have different fans, a Seat Ibiza and a Seat Leon have different fans and the same and the same goes for Passat, Golf, Beetle, Tiguan, Touran, Fox, Transporter, Jetta, etc...  Having said all that, suffice to say that all these fans are troublesome, they burn out, the fins disingrates, they go open circuit and I've even known a few to go short circuit and blow its 30 amp fuse.

VW THERMOSTATICALY CONTROLLED  RADIATOR FAN 

6Q0 959 455AF Engine type: BBX - VW POLO
6R0 959 455D  Engine Code: Polo Vento
6Q0 959 455AE Engine Code: BZG - Fabia,
6Q0 959 455AE Engine Code: BMS -  Fabia, Roomster
6Q0 959 455 N Engine Code: BNM, BAY, BNV, - VW Polo, Fox,
1K0 959 455P  Engine Code: BSE  - Audi A3
1K0 959 455N  Engine Code: BLR - Passat
1K0 959 455DH Engine Code: BMY - VW Touran
1K0 959 455P  Engine Code: BMY -VW Golf
1J0 959 455   Engine Code: AKQ - VW Golf
1K0 959 455ET Engine Code: CFG - VW Tiquan
1K0 959 455FR Engine Code  CFGB - VW Tiquan
6Q0 959 455AD Engine Code: CAYB -VW Polo
6R0 959 455   Engine Code: CFWA - Skoda
6Q0 959 455AD Engine Code: AMF - Polo, Skoda Fabia, Seat Ibiza
6E0 959 455A  Engine Code: AAA - VW Golf, Passat, Polo
7L0 959 455F  Engine Code: CBFA, CCTA - Audi Q7
8D0 959 455   Engine Code: AFB - Audi A6/A8, VW

This list is by no means complete and there are probably a few dozen more variations. These fans are made  by Brose 
(Puebla/Mexico),   Behr Hella Services GmbH (Germany), Wenzhou (Mainland China) and several other an OE manufacturer expressly for the Volkswagen Group with OEM replacement part numbers 1K0959455DT, 1K0959455CQ, 1K0959455N, 1K0959455DL, 1K0959455FE, 1K0959455FJ, etc.  These are predominantly the 300W, 4-pin main connector with 2-pin female secondary connector type, guaranteed to fit the following VW and Audi models. 

2006-2013 Audi A3

2008-2015 Audi TT

2009-2015 Audi TTS

2012-2014 Audi TTRS

2012-2012 Volkswagen Beetle (up to 3/4/2012, VIN specific)

2009-2015 Volkswagen CC

2007-2015 Volkswagen EOS

2006-2014 Volkswagen GTI

2010-2014 Volkswagen Golf

2005-2012 Volkswagen Jetta (up to 3/4/2012, VIN specific)

2006-2010 Volkswagen Passat

2012-2012 Volkswagen Passat (up to 3/4/2012, VIN specific)

2008-2008 Volkswagen R32

2006-2009 Volkswagen Rabbit

2009-2015 Volkswagen Tiguan

The 360mm Radiator fan, notice the four wires in the plug, two thick and two thin.

However, in order to avoid future problems, it is highly recommenced by the fan manufactures that the controller module should be replaced together with correct fan.  The list below are just a few of the radiator controller modules / relays that support the glut of VAG fans. These relays are  VIN specific, so please verify existing part number with the supplied part for correctness.  These contollers are manufactured in Hungary,  Brazil, and Germany. 

1H0 919 506 A -VW Golf MK2 MK3, GTI 8V
1H0 919 506 B - VW Golf MK2 / MK3 GTI 8V
1J0 919 506 G - VW Golf, Lupo, caddy, Audi A3
1J0 919 506 K - Seat Arosa, Leon, Toledo, Skoda Octavia
1J0 919 506 L -  VW, Audi, Skoda & Seat
1J0 919 506 M - Polo, etc
1J0 919 506 P -Golf MK4 , etc,
1J0 919 506 Q - Golf Mk4 GTI, etc

4 and 14 Pin radiator controller module

4 and 10 pin radiator controller module

As mentioned earlier, the fans and controllers are troublesome but the German manufactured version is a lot better and thus last much longer but it is also pricier.  Notice that the main part number on both the above images are the same except for its prefix. The real difference is that the top module has 14 contacts on its right side connector whereas the middle module has only 10 and the bottom module has only 6.  The 2 images below gives you  good idea of the variations in modules. The final image shows how these modules burn.

Main and secondary connectors with 4 and 10 pins respectively.

The secondary plug has 14 pins

This is what happens to the modules made in Hungary and Brazil.

What is an EPC light? What is an EPC warning light? What is an EPC light on Volkswagen? What Is the VW EPC Warning Light? What is the EPC light on a Volkswagen Jetta? What is EPC on a Volkswagen? What does it mean if the EPC warning light comes on in a Volkswagen? Volkswagen - EPC Warning Light, What does an EPC light on the dash of a Polo match car mean? EPC light came on and lost all power.  The EPC warning symbol came on today while driving. EPC Light and stalling. EPC light came on and can't start the engine. EPC light on, what does it mean ? EPC light and engine check light. EPC warning light. Epc light. EPC + power loss/no boost.  Do not exceed 4000 rpm  EPC light.   EPC error where the car shakes terribly.  ESP EPC & Engine Light ON.  EPC Light and Stalling. Polo bluemotion 58 plate and a yellow engine light came on. I read the manual but still not sure something to do with the exhaust?? A little help as my wife needs the car for work.2002 1.6L GOLF, EPC light on. POWER LOSS An EPC light will appear on the dash randomly whilst driving. Once it is on, there is a noticeable loss in power and it stays this way until the... volkswagon polo epc warning.step by step guide to turn light off please, preferably without visiting expensive vw garage. Have diagnostic computer to see code! EPC light came on and engine will not rev higher. I have a vw polo and the EPC warning light has come on what should i do? Orange light 03 vw polo. VW Polo Map sensor fault code idling poorly. EPC light on my dashboard 2001 vw polo. It has something to do with the engine management, retarding the power of the engine.

VW BREAKDOWNS

VW BREAKDOWNS

Virtually everyday I see at least a half a dozen of brand new cars hitching a lift to some service center. Rollsbacks are becoming pervasive and are thus trending because the days when you could manage a quick repair along the roadside is long gone. Whether you drive an older well used or brand new vehicle, breakdowns are inevitably and will happen at the most inopportune moments or at the worst possible time. Having a roadside assistance service like the AA (Automobile Association) can provide some peace of mind, especially to female drivers with infants or aging parents / grandparents on board. Somehow breakdowns seem to happen when you are smartly dressed enroute to a function of sorts or when you are late for an appointment. That's Murphy's Law for you.

VW Golf GTI with a engine sensor issue

VW Golf GTI going nowhere slowly

The most common road side problem today seems to be  cars running out of fuel, because of erroneous assumptions. Due to the recent rapid rise in fuel prices everyone is still topping up their fuel tanks based on note value rather than on litre value.  For example, R100.00 worth of fuel (8.2 litres) is not the same as asking for 20 litres of LPR fuel (R250.00). Hence drivers are judging driving distance based on the Rand value, often ignoring the fuel guage and getting stuck without fuel as a consequence, though expecting the rand value of the fuel they bought should have taken them a lot further than it actually did. 

A dead battery is another common issue, which is most susceptible in winter, especially relevant to delivery vehicles that drive short distances, starting their engine often, thus not giving the battery sufficient opportunity to charge fully. Persistent battery problems are more often than not caused by a faulty alternator regulator and is not normally repairable at the road side. I've had my alternator die on me at night while driving home from movies, and I was actually watching my headlights getting dimmer by the meter, as I drove. Fortunately I made it home before my battery ran down completely.

Then there is the clutch cable that snaps under stress,  which is normally a deal breaker because it inhibits changing gears. Once when this happened to me, I started my car whilest the transmission was in 3rd gear causing the car to lunge forward as the starter rotates. It's kinda like using the starter to propel the car forward until it starts. When my car's engine started, I managed to drive all the way home in third gear without incident.

VW Polo with a ESP and EPC issue

VW Polo enroute service centre.

A flat tyre / blowout is another roadside issue, especially if you discover the spare tyre deflated due to the duration of time it spent in the boot without being checked. The worst thing ever is not being able to loosen a wheel nut that's been air torqued by the last tyre repair place you visited. 

An overheating engine can just stress you out because the first thing that comes to mind is the possible cost of repair. An overheated engine is commonly caused by a snapped fan belt or stuck thermostat which can cause the cylinder hear gasket to blow if not detected and repaired in time. When my car's engine overheated, I was some 30 Km out of Bloemfontein on the N1, enroute Cape Town; somehow the attendant at the filling station who topped up my radiator water level didn't replace its cap.  As a consequence the
water bubbled out and with insufficient water to keep the engine cool,  the  head gasket blew and I had to stay in Bloem for 13 days. It was an expensive exercise, the cost of a deco set with head gasket, the cost of the opportunistic mechanic, and the cost of hotel accommodation and obviously food.

A not so common roadside fault is locking your keys inside the vehicle or even loosing your keys. Remember the microchip inside your key can also go faulty and is the only thing that can disable your immobilizer. If this should happen it would be worthwhile having roadside assistance because they generally have a relationship with vehicle manufactureres and authorised dealers and have access to Key Assist. 

Regular services would do your driving spirit the world of good because any worm components can be detected before they actually go faulty. On of the worst roadside breakdowns is a snapped cam belt but if checked at regular services and replaced before it breaks would save you a shed load of money. It is worthwhile keeping  a set of jumper leads and a 5L can of water in you boot as well as an empy 5L can and a funnel, just in case you run out of fuel.  A spare fan belt and a mechanical toolkit would also be beneficial as boot luggage. Get into the habit of continually looking at your instrument cluster while driving to check your guages for normality, especially oil pressure, oil level and water. Check your coolant level yourself if possible before going on any long trip, and please don't allow garage attendants check it, at least not without your supervision.  Also make sure your have a spare key. 

I've never seen two VW towed in tandem like the two Toyotas above.

Two police vehicles that needs some TLC

Looking at the two images above is a least a consolation to Volkswagen owners that it's not only VW  vehicles that seems to enjoy riding on the back of rollbacks.

Feel free to upload your VW, SKODA, SEAT & AUDI scans.


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COMMON VOLKSWAGEN PROBLEMS

I've owned no less than 20 cars, the bulk of which were VW vehicles. I am thus qualified to say that the most troublesome car in the Volkswagen stable without any doubt is  the VW Jetta but it is very closely followed by the Volkswagen Polo, regardless of winning  2010 World Car of the Year. 

Whether you drive an older 6n Polo or a later 9N3 Polo classic 1.6 or 2.0L Highline, or a newer Polo Vivo 1.4 Trendline, or a VW hatch 1.4TDI Highline or a VW sedan 1.5TDI Comfortline, or a VW hatch 1.2TSI Highline, or a Polo BlueMotion or a Polo GTI, or a CrossPolo, or even a Polo 6R, either manual or auto, you are bound to encounter some or all of these problems listed below over time or even perhaps in very close proximity to one another.

Since I've had my VW Polo 2.0L Highline, I've personally experienced most of them and the only reason I know that these are common problems is because I've encountered so many people with similar problems. They go as far as to say the VW Polo is a thoroughly unreliable car, adding that it's poorly built and that they should have stuck to Japanese cars. Some complain about the high repair bills they had to foot for problems that shouldn't be haunting fairly new cars,  let alone the atrocious VW customer service they experienced. Their final words - "Stay away from Volkswagen".  "I'll never buy Volkswagen again!"

Soon after I purchased  my VW polo 2.0L highline I noticed an above normal level of cabin noise. The conclusion I came to, was that the door rubbers doesn't seal very well allowing type road noise to enter. This was even confirmed by water droplets falling onto the door panel armrest and on me when it rains. In fact when I open the back doors and look at the B-post and front door rubbers seals, I can see a air gap of about 5mm between the B-post and the rubbers door seals. I would agree that the Polo isn't  built very well. 

At another time, I noticed a humming sound emitting from its gearbox when accelerating.  Convinced that it wasn't there before, or if it was, it was hardly noticeable, I took the Polo to a VW service centre, only to be told, "There is no problem with the gearbox, that sound is perfectly normal for all Polos."  Ya right! Like its normal for a person to have 4 ears.

A friend who owns a 2011 Polo Vivo 1.4 Trendline also noticed the interior cabin noise was getting quite annoying when driving at speeds above 100 km per hour. As a result he had both front wheel bearing replaced thinking that may be the problem but it didn't make any difference. The VW service centre says it has much to do with wheel balancing and alignment.

Something else I'm quite unhappy about is that the interior fabric has  separated from the roof lining of my 2007 Polo Highline  and hanging as if filled with water. However I'm not as pissed about it as my neighbour is, who ownes a 2011 VW Polo Vivo 1.4 Trendline. He says it's totally unbelieveble that a five year old car should be falling apart whereas as his 20 year old Mercedez Benz's fabric ceiling still looks new, like the day he bought the car.

The airbag malfunction light seems to be another VW problem on an epidemic scale. Once its on, it cannot be turned off, not even by experienced auto shops. Replacement of the airbag is the only way that light is going to turn off and stay off. This was a problem that originated with the 2006 VW jetta when nearing 160,000 kilometers.  Somehow this problem found its way into other VW's especially the Polos.

Another Jetta problem that seem to have infected VW Polo, is Ignition Coil failure which tend to  appear around 120,000 kilometers. Its a good idea to keep one or two spare coils in your repair kit because they die when you least expect it.  When they do, your car shakes as if its a washing machine in spin dry mode. I've also had one or two of my radiator fan lades snap off and when it engaged shook my entire car as if I small tree in a blizzard. After the initial fright when this happens is the thought of cost immediately springs to mind.  So some reason or the other my radiator fan just disintegrated.

The Check Engine light and the EPC light turning on, are classic VW Polo problem that just waits for an opportunity to present itself. This often occurs when your decelerate, or yielding or driving slowly or when you start it first thing in the morning. Its perfectly normal or the EPC light to come on during a 3 sec self test when the ignition is turned on but should turn off when the vehicle starts. If it doesn't, your in or a very long day. 

EPC problems sometimes evokes limp mode which I found can be quite dangerous even life threatening because I've experienced limp mode with a 30 ton road-train just meters from my rear bumper, with just fractions of a second to get out of its way. I've experience EPC problems on the freeway on-ramp in peak hour traffic. I've experience EPC problems on a lonely stretch of road in the dark of the night. I've experience EPC problems to the point that I didn't want t drive my Polo anymore and even contemplated selling it.

Wiring harness problems especially on the doors and the alarm system and the DSG gearbox. The headlight connectors tend to melt from the heat of the lights and contact becomes intermittent to the point that whilst driving they go on and off.

Leaking coolant from under the water pump or from the black metal hose that runs along two side of the engine. Either the water pump needs to be replaced or the corroded pipe needs to be replaced.