VW Fuses Switches and Relays

VW Fuses  Switches and Relays

Single Pole Single Throw

Electrical switches comes in several configurations, but are normally classified into only four types. The most common switch is the single pole single throw, abbreviated as SPST. This implies it has one contact that is normally open —abbreviated N/O—  which is closed when the switch is flicked. This type of switch is either on-or-off / open circuit or closed circuit. This switch also comes in the form of a push button switch which is normally open and closes when pushed but when released it open once again. It is also known as push-to-make, abbreviated PTM. An example of a PTM is a door bell switch or a cars hooter or the individual keys on a keyboard. Push button switches also comes in a normally closed configuration and opens when pushed, but when released, it closes again. Commonly  known as push-to-break, abbreviated PTB. An example of a PTB switch is used to release a door, held closed by an electromagnet.

Suzuki GS500 GSXR1100, Honda  VT 500 VT600 VT700 VF750,
Kawasaki ZX1000 ZX 1100 Solenoid

Single Pole Double Throw

The second and slightly more advanced switch is the single pole double throw switch, abbreviated as SPDT. This is a three terminal switch which toggles between two states when switched. SPDT are in essence two switches in one package. The one switch is normally open whilst the other is normally closed. By flicking the switch the two switches reverses their roles. The normally open switch is then closed and the normally close switch is opened. By connecting a SPDT at either end of a long passage to turns the lights or off, one is able to enter the passage at one end, turn the lights on and when exiting the passage at the other end switch the lights off. SPDT can be used as a SPST in an application by just using the centre contact and either one of the other two contacts, depending on what type of switch you need, N/O or N/C.  SPDT switches are also available with a centre-off position, known as momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON) switch.

Volkswagen 4H0951253 Starter Relay 645 and 1J0906381A Fuel pump relay 109. 

Double Pole Single Trow

The third type of switch is the DPST and is similar to the SPST switch in operation except that it has a pair of on-off switches that switch together. It is commonly used to connect / interrupt both the live and neutral supplies in a circuit simultaneously or it may be used to switch two separate circuits simultaneously. Computer power supplies have DPDT switches as a safety feature to avoid getting electrocuted whilst working on the power supply if only one pole was switched. 

Double Pole Double Throw

The fourth type of switch is the DPDT and is similar to the SPDT switch in operation except that it has a pair of on-on switches that switch together. It is commonly wired to reverse the direction of a DC motor or be used to switch between to different colour LEDS. DPDT can be used as a DPSP in an application by using the centre contact and either one of the other two contacts and duplicated on the paired switch. DPDP switches are also available with a centre-off position, known as momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON) switch.

Switches 

Switches switches come in various shapes among which are Toggle switches, limit switches, reed switches, micro switches, mercury switches, rotary switch, slide switch, rocker switch, pneumatic limit switches, selector switches and getting the right switch for the job cam sometimes be tricky and may be better suited by using a relay. Many switches also come with a rubber jacket to make it  waterproof. However that doesn't imply you can submerse the switch in water, it is more a splash proof cover than a water proof one. There are switches suited for using under water, for example a floating mercury switch. when a vat or tank is filled with liquid, the switch would float in the upright position but when the liquid falls below a certain lever  the switch would float upside down and trigger. Perhaps turning on a pump that would fill the tank or vat once again.

Whats a relay?

Having discussed switches you may ask what does switches have to do with relays. The simple answer is, a relay is essentially a remotely controlled switch. Relays are controlled electrically rather than mechanically, hence they're known as electro-mechanical relays. They are commonly used in automotive design, where high current devices can be switched from a cockpit fairly cheaply. In stead of using long lengths of thick high current cable and a substantially heavy duty on-off switch to control a heater or a motor situated some distance from the driver; a small low current switch and a length of thin low current cable and a relay switch with heavy contacts would suffice. Every relays has a solenoid configured as an electromagnet. So when the solenoid is activated by a trigger voltage, the electromagnet pulls a set of heavy duty contacts to make or break a circuit. Relays are versatile and can function as a simple spst switch, or a more advance spdt switch of a dpst switch or a dpdt switch depending on the circuity it needs to control.

Volkswagen Solenoids

Sometimes you may need a switch with more contacts than the best switch you can find, and this is where relays outweigh switches. Relays also cost less than the combines cost of all the switches that it replaces or that can do the job of.  Volkswagen have several relays throughout its electrical system and the most hardworking relay, is the starter relay.  Starter relays form part of the starter, the reasoning, is to keep high current conductors as short as possible. However many cars have a second relay inserted into the fuse panel that powers the starter solenoid. So when you turn the ignition key to start your car, the starter relay contacts in the fuse box sends 12V to the starter solenoid on the starter. This solenoid's contacts throw and sends 12V from the thick battery cable that's connected to one side of the starter solenoid directly to the starter's field coils, causing its armature  to spin. But at exactly the same time the solenoid performs a dual function as it kicks the bendix forward into the ring gear's teeth.  The starter's force of rotation is sufficient to crack the engine and if all's well, the engine with start. 

Volkswagen

Volkswagen

Volkswagen cars are extremely popular. In fact, they are so  popular that Volkswagen as a brand is the favourite car of many South Africans, besides being the most popular car sold on the South African market. Volkswagen cars are also popular elsewhere and are sold in virtually every country throughout the world; but its popularity and its global acclaimed robustness doesn't make it indestructible. 

Volkswagen cars give problems, in fact they are more troublesome now, than they've ever been. The reason, the ODB-II system with its ever increasing number of ECUs.  This system has several features that means well, like controlling toxic emissions, like giving you the best fuel efficiency;  and is capable of detecting minor issues or glitches before they actually occur, among so many other beneficial features.

However, like every coin has two sides, and as there are always two side to every story, there is also a reaction to every action.   Meaning for every beneficial feature of OBD-II there is a detrimental feature to OBD-II. OBD-II is essentially a computer system with a host of additional computer modules remotely placed through the body of the car, some of which have an effect on the Engine ECU. 

These modules or sub-ECUs oversee various features, like an airbag controller module/ECU that supervises the airbag. This module is connected to crash sensors placed in strategic positions in the car, that triggers when a crash occurs and ensure that the airbag is inflated within the required time frame. Then there is also an immobilizer module/ECU that supervises the starting process ensuring the correct code from the key transponder chip corresponds with its randomly generated code. There is also an ABS Brakes module, a Gateway module, a Steering Assist module, an Instrument Module, a Central Convenience module, a Radio module, to mention but a few. All of which are potentially sources of problems.

If we only look at the Airbag and the Immobilizer modules/ECUs, both will impede driveability and the starting of the car, by influencing the Engine ECU. If the Engine ECU doesn't received the expected signal from either, it would refuse to start the engine. The Engine ECU is the heart of the ODD-II and normally sits in the engine compartment or inside the car under the dashboard. All three these modules/ECUs mentioned, sometimes also referred to as nodes, are in within a meter of on another but here's the downside. 

To get them to sing in harmony they are connected together by a wiring harness. This wiring harness plugs into each and every node in the car, and also share a common twisted-pair wire-connection  called a bus which is terminate at each of its ends with 120 Ω resistors. This bus can be either Controller Area Network (CAN) or  Local Interconnect Network (LIN) or even FlexRay. Each module also has a power supply and an earth connection. All of these wire connections are potentially sources of problems.

The average car can have anything between 5 and 100 modules/ECUs, some ECUs have as few as six connections and others as many as 80 or 94 or even more. Each of these physical connections are prone to corrosion, metal fatigue and physical flexing due to suspension vibration and is a source of future problems. Some ECU's earth connection is solely made through body contact and if it looses contact due to vibration or water ingress, it will undoubtedly cause an error or errors. 

These errors are stored in the ECU's non-volatile memory which can at times be quite cryptic. I can say that without doubt that every "automotive technician" has misinterpreted DTCs and replaced unnecessary components in the process. Even returned cars to the owners claiming that they solved the problem but didn't, they were just under the misapprehension that they did.

If any connection out of this glut of connections becomes intermittent for some reason or the other, it would be like trying to find a needle in a haystack and there are so many "automotive technician" that have never touched a needle nor even seen a haystack, let alone find a needle in a haystack. Be that as it may, one of the advantages of OBD-II is that it increases the likelihood of a DIY fix, providing the fixer is fairly dexterous and have some electronic and mechanical knowledge and have access to a diagnostic scanner.

A fairly common plug connection that goes intermittent, is the one that connects to the throttle body. It supplies the voltage to the stepper motor that controls the throttle butterfly valve. This plug also sends feedback to the ECU so that it knows how wide open or close the valve is. So many mechanics insist on stripping the throttle body due to a throttle body DTC and claim after cleaning it, the problem was solved. However a few days later the error would be back. A word of caution, Don't suspect replaceable parts especially if it has less that 100 000 km on its clock. Exhaust the possibility that it's a possible wiring harness problem before replacing expensive items because they can never be returned to the agents after its been installed.

Another intermittent connection it the 6 pin plug that interfaces with the accelerator pedal. This is a common source of the dreaded EPC problem. In many cases, a squirt of electro cleaner may solve this problem. That's to say until it's triggered by something else. It's worth while to check the voltage supply stability and ground impedance between the 6 pin plug and the ECU. Remembering that the pedal's earth connection is grounded inside the ECU and the ECU is grounded to the body or chassis and not the engine. In some cases, the ECU will function normally because its metal casing is not earthed.

Also, don't be tempted to earth the pedal earth directly to the body when there is a  significant resistance reading. Rather replace that portion of the wiring harness that may have gone high resistive. Offset ground connections and ground loops can cause voltage drops and magnetic impedance which are major causes of noise hum, and interference in computer systems (ECU). So don't alter the the existing ground connections because it could introduce issues you've never experienced before.

What does it mean if the EPC warning light comes on in a Volkswagen?

What does it mean if the EPC warning light comes on in a Volkswagen?

Since the inception of the motor vehicle, several manufactures have claimed that their brand of car, has sold the most units globally. But since there is no definitive comparative yardstick to measure the exact amount of units sold,  Volkswagen claimed that their Volkswagen Beetle is the "bestselling car in history", considering they had sold more than 21 million units. To be more exact, The New York Times, date July 31, 2003 stated that the very "Last Volkswagen Beetle" manufactured was in fact number 21,529,464. 

Ford on the other hand manufactured their 1 millionth Model T's during the last month of 1915, with total sales of 15 million units produced by 1927 when they ceased production. In 1972 Volkswagen broke Ford's record when their 15,007,034th Beetle came off the production line in Puebla, Mexico. 



Be that as it may, Toyota boasts that in reality, their Toyota Corolla is the "bestselling automobile in the world", after reaching their 40 millionth unit in July 2013. But regardless of their claim, Volkswagen is undoubtedly still the "bestselling automobile in the world" seeing that the Volkswagen Beetle didn't change its shape or form since 1945 up to and including 2003, whereas Toyota used their Corolla label for eleven generations of Toyota cars, built since 1966 and this very Corolla label is still in common use. Non-the-less, statistically Volkswagen has been the best selling car globally until late 1998; meaning the Volkswagen Beetle remains the "bestselling vehicle ever". 

Enter the Volkswagen Kombi, Volkwagen City Golf, Volkswagen Fox, Vokswagen Jetta, Volkswagen Golf, Volkswagen Polo, Volkswagen Passat, Volkswagen Kombi, Volkswagen Sharan, Volkswagen  Toureg, Volkswagen Amrok, Volkswagen Transporter and the list goes on. However this entire Volkswagen fleet doesn't come without their fair share of  problems. The most common of which is probably the EPC light accompanied by limp-mode home.

What is the VW EPC Warning Light, 

The Electronic Power Control warning light, is commonly known as the EPC warning light. It's a dashboard warning indicator that suggests that there may be a problem with your Volkswagen’s throttle system. The throttle system consists of the accelerator pedal, the throttle body, traction control, cruise control, and the ECU, which is collectively called the drive-by-wire system. 
The drive-by-wire system is also sometimes referred to as an Electronic Throttle Control (ETC), roughly described as a technology that electronically "connects" the accelerator pedal to the throttle, instead of a mechanical linkage. 

In a drive-by-wire system, an electric stepper motor determines the angle of the throttle valve. How wide it opens or closes, is calculated by a —closed-loop control algorithm— software controlled embedded system built into the ECU. The ECU makes decisions based on various input data from several sensors, among which are, the accelerator pedal position sensors, engine speed sensor,  vehicle speed sensor, and the cruise control switch. The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) can also be described as a computerized ignition / engine management system  that operates in conjunction with the stability and cruise control systems. When the EPC light comes on, it means the problem is not emission related, whereas the Check Engine Light (CEL)indicates emission related problems but when it lights up, can be accompanied by the EPC light. If the EPC warning light comes on in your vehicle, it is important to have it seen to as soon as possible, because it you don't invariable it's going to trigger again when you least expect it.

EPC Car Warning Light

When the EPC light comes on in your Volkswagen, its throttle may be limited in power, yet have sufficient power to drive the car to a dealership or mechanical workshop, but it shouldn't be driven elsewhere. This is called limp-mode-home. Limp mode home is  inherent in its the software design in order to to protect the car from run-away and  its passengers from possible injury. Volkswagen cars equipped with a Electronic Stability Program (ESP) program, will display its ESP light instead of the EPC light and may automatically trigger the car into limp-home mode. 

Vehicles fitted with Traction Power System (TPS) are also prone to enter into 'limp-home-mode'  which effectively prevents software glitches from initiating or activating unintended acceleration.  In 2011 the U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) commissioned a team of NASA software engineers to evaluate software of late model year Toyota and Lexus vehicles, alleged to be the cause of  unintended acceleration collision, which caused the death of a passenger in a September 2007. 

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The Definitive EPC Guide 2

The Definitive EPC Guide (Continued)

For part ONE Click Here!

Having said that, in my humble opinion, the  EPC circuit with its drive-by-wire circuit and its "Limp-mode home" mode, is a value-add for modern car design; and though frowned upon by many, is a very valuable safety feature. Also bearing in mind that when the communication network is momentarily unavailable and an application that depends on it is unable to communicate, it may trigger the ECU into "Limp-mode home" and set a DTC. Exception errors do occur in  synchronous or asynchronous distributed system, where software entities act as clients or servers or both. So when where 1...n clients are requesting services via a specific protocol from typically one server; the server services the client  but  temporarily blocks its service request and data flow control, whilst other client expects a response from the server.  

If 1 client to n server communication can be established, it would certainly solve the problem but it’s currently not supported. Also remembering that the CAN bus is a serial communication network through which all modules communicate with the ECU via a Central Gateway, some uses FlexRay frames and others Lin bus or CAN, each with a differing topology, some synchronous and others asynchronous. The Central Gateway is responsible for frame or signal mapping function between two communication systems, like from LIN/MOST/CAN/FlexRay to Ethernet transport systems. However ECU gateways often have two or more internal Gateways like the Service Data Unit (SDU) gateway, Layer 3 Tunnelling Protocol (L3TP) gateway and the Signal Gateway needed for frame or signal mapping function between two disparate communication systems.

The best analogy with which to explain the above would be your cell phone. Cell phones are native Global System for Mobiles (GSM) devices with a microprocessor and its support chips, much like the automotive ECU. Cell phones support the Hypertext Transfer Protocol (HTTP) and the Wireless Application Protocol (WAP) for Wi-Fi as well as the Bluetooth communications protocol through a "Gateway" which translates it to a common data stream native to the Cell phone operating system. 

So, while you’re downloading an email and the phone rings and you answer; the email download temporarily stops but will resume when the call is terminated. The same applies to a Bluetooth file transfer which will be interrupted even possibly terminated when a phone call is answered. However, not all services are prone to such interruptions because some services are inherent to the design. For example, when you’re listening to music on your cell phone and you answer an incoming call, the music is temporarily suspended until the call is terminated then the music will resume. 

This function is purposely part of the design whereas exception errors are not and are more prone to happen with asynchronous communication, caused by propagation delays. This is what also happens when the ECU inter communicates with other modules and when the messages are not delivered within a prescribed period of time, can cause the car to go into "Limp-mode home" . So if for some reason the radio that is a non-essential service is hogging the network bus, and you step on the brake which the ECU will undoubtedly detect but the brake light didn't illuminate within the expected response time, which the ECU will also detect, then the car may go into "Limp-mode home" . 

Or you could hit a speed bump in the road at high speed and bounce back onto the road; the thump if hard enough or loud enough to trip a knock sensor would cause the car to go into "Limp-mode home" . Or you could have just done some high rev spirited driving to cause the car to go into "Limp-mode home" . One consolation is that, when the ignition is initially turned on; right before the car is started the ECU does a self-test to verify that all’s well, and if that is the case, the car will start and drive normally. 

However, if the self-test fails, one of the caution lights may remain on. It could be either the EPC light or the Check Engine light or perhaps both, or one or both could be blinking, which is a sure sign that you may have a problem. Once again, a diagnostic scanned would be the most informative way of establishing what the problem is. But I’ve encountered car owner who took their vehicles for diagnostic tests and no errors were flagged, so in some cases may be a futile exercise. 

Having said that, if you are stranded along the road side, the best would be to reset the ECU by removing the battery earth terminal for a minute or two, but make absolutely certain that you have access to your radio / DVD code before  you disconnect. Whatever errors occurred prior to this will be safely stored in the ECU non-volatile memory and may be checked when a diagnostic scanner is available but all stored values will be lost.  The downside of doing this, is that an additional error would be flagged because the battery (+30V) supply was interrupted, and now the ECU has to relearn your driving style.

ECUs are fairly robust and are more-likely-than-not the cause of your EPC problems, though unlikely but not impossible.  The most likely component in my humble opinion that would cause constant and annoying EPC problems would be the wiring harness. Not the actual wires, unless they are frayed and damaged by rubbing against the chassis but rather its edge connectors. 

The ECUs and associated modules each have multi-pin connector that’s tin plated and can become intermittent due to the constant vibration of the car. Copper contacts also oxidizes fairly quickly, so to prevent this from happening, they are tin plated which provides for a low resistance, good contact surface. However when water enters this connection, especially in the presence of a voltage or current flow, the contact normally turns black or corrodes green, impeding continuity hence connectivity. 

A poor vehicle ground connection is another culprit that can intermittently trigger the EPC light without leaving a DTC.  A blown tail light / brake light bulb can also cause the EPC light to turn on without leaving a DTC. Always make sure that the replacement is a 12V 21/5W bulb because the wrong bulb will also cause the EPC to trigger also without leaving a DTC.  A faulty brake-light switch (DPST) is also commonly known for triggering the EPC light and sometimes causes the 10A fuse to blow. 

So, when the brake is applied and the switch throws, its contacts reverse, meaning the normally-open contact closes and the normally-closed contact, open. If there is a delay in the switching time, even as short as .5 of a second, the EPC light will trigger, without leaving a DTC.  A tell-tale sign that the brake-light switch is faulty or that the fuse is blown; is that the Cruise Control appears to be faulty. Since they are both interconnected, the Cruise Control is reliant on a voltage provided through the brake switch. 

DTC can often be intermittent or sporadic so it’s best to ignore those, in preference of repairing those that are permanent. In so doing, they may have interrelations and the sporadic ones may disappear after the permanent errors are fixed. So, it’s best to perform a diagnostic scan, preferably an autoscan with VCDS first, then delete all DTC in the process. Thereafter save this scan and printout a hardcopy to store with the vehicles registration papers. 

The importance of this printout is that it’s a reference to all the modules coding, and if something is inadvertently changed, there would be an unalterable record to refer to. Once done, and as mentioned above, disconnect the battery's negative terminal then disconnect the positive pole and place the battery on charge for about two hour.  Replace the battery by first connecting the positive pole then lastly the negative pole.

 By following this sequence you will prevent damage to the electronics modules strew throughout the car.  At this point, all pre-learnt and all stored values would have been erased from the ECU. Essentially all the control modules would have been completely reset, restarting with a clean slate.  After starting the engine and driving the car for a short distance, check to see if any DTC have been flagged.

Resetting an ECU occasionally is a good thing, because any and all electronic equipment with a microprocessor can experience an unrecoverable error or an internal parity error or fail a cyclic redundancy check and requires a "cold" system restart. Computer  memory (RAM) also experience memory read/write errors, interrupt or address errors and general protection errors; so  when the ECU is reset/cleared, along with its non-volatile memory, the memory (RAM) is also reset.  AUOTSAR and its core partners are trying their utmost to rectify such problems in automotive ECU, but until they do, we will have to contend with EPC problems.

To read the first part... click here.