Showing posts sorted by date for query drive by wire. Sort by relevance Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by date for query drive by wire. Sort by relevance Show all posts

Wednesday, August 24, 2022

That EPC light

That EPC light.

The most likely reason you're reading this blog post, is because you encountered an EPC fault with your Volkswagen vehicle. I bet you wondered what that yellow/orange light was when it lit-up or perhaps startled when you car went into "limp mode". Whether you're driving a VW Polo or VW Jetta, VW Golf,  VW Caddy, VW Passat, T-Cross, Sharan, Touareg, Transporter, or any other Volkswagen or even a German Audi, or a Czech Skoda or a Spanish VW SEAT, you've come to the right place because they all have an  Electronic Power Control circuit. 



In fact all "modern day" vehicles have EPC circuit, which loudly says that the automotive industry have finally reached some consensus on standardization. But let me tell you what the EPC light actually is. It's just a signal light informing you that there is an error in your vehicles torque circuit. That's the short answer, however, I can tell by the look on your face that it wasn't a  satisfactory answer, so let me give you the long version.

The EPC light is part of the Electronic Power Control Circuit which is just one of the components of OBD-II which was mandated by a certain regulatory bodies with regulatory intent. Their initial intention was to limit carbon emissions / exhaust fumes from cars on the street of America. 

The California Air Resources Board (CARB) and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) together with the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) collectively originated the On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System because of high levels of smog produced by automobiles throughout the USA.  

Their initial On-Board Diagnostic System was subsequently superseded by the all new and improved verion OBD-II, hence all cars manufactured post 1996 has an Electronic Power Control Circuit and by extension an EPC light. The European on-board diagnostics (EOBD) regulations are the European equivalent of the American OBD-II. 

On-Board Diagnostic (OBD-II) is an automotive mechatronic, micro processor / micro controller based computer system with programmed presets that continuously monitors inputs from numerous sensors fitted through the car. 

It then computes/compares/ compensates these inputs against stored data and drives various actuators to perform certain tasks. In a nutshell OBD-II is an input/output (I/O) information processing system much like the PC / laptop / or even your smart phone. By example, a keyboard, a mouse, a joystick, a scanner and a microphone are common computer input devices whereas a HD monitor, a printer, speakers and headphones are common computer output devices. 

Here the computer/laptop makes calculations based on its internal operating system and software to do something intelligible for humans. However in the case of OBD-II, its CPU (Central Processing Unit) is called an ECU (Electronic Control Unit) and among its input sensors are the Accelerator Position Sensor, Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF), Lambda O2 Sensor, Knock sensor, Oli level sensor, Coolant Temperature Sensor, the Camshaft Position Sensor, the Crank Position Sensor, the Wheel Speed  Sensor etc, to mention but a few.

Among its output actuators and solenoids are the drive-by-wire electronic throttle actuator, the fuel injectors, the EPC light, Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL), the Immobilizer, the Airbags and the Power Steering Pump, etc, again to mention but a few,

This ECU is sometimes referred to as an Engine Control Unit especially when intending to make reference to the TCU (Transmission Control Unit). The ECU is sometimes even called ECM (Engine Control Module) when making reference to other electronic control modules like the ABS module, the Instruments module, the Central Electronics Module, the CAN gateway module, the Radio Module, etc, again to mention but a few 

However, the ECU and the TCU are collectively referred to as Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The ECM essentially controls the efficiency of the engine performance by using a Crankshaft Position Sensor to determine the position of the cams in order to activate the injection of fuel into the cylinders and the timing of the ignition spark to ignite it at precisely the correct moment in petrol engines. 

Likewise the ECM in Diesel engines, plays a huge role in the success of the turbodiesel models. But in order for this to happen, an electronic throttle control had to be introduced, replacing the  cable from the pedal to the carburetor system which was prone to idle speed deviation between a hot and cold engine that became more and more prevalent as the components wore out. 

In so doing, the ECM can adjust the electronic throttle angle during acceleration to achieve the right quantitative relationship ratio between the actual airflow through the engine and the injected fuel thus maintaining Stoichiometry. Controlling the throttle airflow on the fly, markedly improves overall torque and driveability which is known as torque-mapping, an advantage that is only possible with drive-by-wire. 

So, the Electronic Power Control Circuit consists of the ECM, the Accelerator Position Sensor, the Throttle Position Sensors, the Throttle Actuator, the MAF / Air Filter, the Fuel Injectors, the High Pressure Fuel Pump, Fuel Temperature Sensor, Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor and Pressure Relief Valve. 

The single accelerator position sensor is made up of two individual potentiometers each acting independently of the other but collectively operate with opposite polarity voltages supplied by the ECM, as a safety back-up for one another. 

Thus, if either potentiometer fails, the ECM will activate limp mode. This is a safety measure that prevents the system from acting as if it had an accelerator cable that got stuck in the runaway position and the makings of a potential accident. The cruise control also has influence on the throttle body and requires the brake pedal to be depressed to cancel the cruise control. 

The ECU normally takes this cancellation signal from the brake light MOSFET low-side driver in the ECU. So either the brake pedal switch and the a brake light bulb can cause an EPC error along with the aforementioned fuel supply components. It's best to have a diagnostic tester to check for DTC errors via the DLC connector. It would at the very least steer you in the right direction to fix your EPC problem effectively.

Thursday, January 6, 2022

What your Electronic Power Control (EPC) Warning Light really means

What your Electronic Power Control (EPC) Warning Light really means

Computers are ubiquitous or rather microcomputers, microprocessors and their peripheral systems and chipsets are.  As such, they can be found in most electronic devices, ranging from laptops to printers, routers, radios, walkie-talkies, cell-phones and toys to mention but a few. In fact, microprocessors are so common place that they've taken over most hand held and personal electronic devices so-much-so that they are even embedded in our entertainment equipment, our cars, motorcycles, aeroplanes, ships and trains. It can thus be said that electronics in all its technological forms, have completely changed how we live  our lives. These systems along with its sensors, sendors and actuators are referred to as On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) and since it's in its second revision, known as OBD-II or just OBDII.


Furthermore  these On-board diagnostic (OBDII) digital computers interfaced with its dependency modules, electro-mechanical systems and sensors built into our cars have collectively taken-over and superseded most mechanical linkage functions, that were previously and traditionally used for acceleration, steering control and parking brake among several other.  So, welcome to the world of  drive-by-wire, (electronic throttle control) steer-by-wire, shift-by-wire, brake-by-wire and fly-by-wire which is currently widely used in aviation. 

What your Electronic Power Control (EPC) Warning Light really says!

Your car's EPC light essentially indicates that there is an issue with the  torque system of your vehicle. This torque system is your car's acceleration and braking system that now operates via drive-by-wire, shift-by-wire and brake-by-wire. In a nutshell, it's a computer chip supervised electronic system (ECU) that replaced the cable linkage previously situated between the carburetor and the accelerator pedal with an electrical/electronic interface. 

This amber EPC light is an advisory light rather than a warning light -since warning lights are red in colour- is illuminated when the ECU detects a glitch in the torque system. When a glitch is detected, in most cases the ECU will enable 'limp home mode'. Limp mode is a fail-safe software-embedded, security and safety feature that  inhibits the system, activates a  rev limiter, shuts off boost partially or completely, resulting in a maximum 2500 RPM.  

Thereby leaving only sufficient power to safely drive the car home in some cases. In other cases it could prevent the car from even starting.  Limp mode also acts as a safe-guard against further engine / transmission trouble or possible runaway.  Switching off the engine and disconnecting the battery may in some cases momentarily cure limp mode, but then again it may not due to the ECU's  non-volatile memory. However as an  advisory light, it begs for an OBD-II diagnostic scan, so that the Trouble Code (DTC) error may be diagnosed and repaired. This is best done sooner rather than later, as Limp mode sometimes manages to cures itself, yet bound to repeat itself continually until repaired. The ECU has a counter / timer monitoring how many times the same DTC was detected since the last start-up. If just a few times (considered negligible / mistakenly triggered) the counter resets itself and starts to recount from when it happens again.

Having said that, EPC lights and drive-by-wire systems aren't exclusive to "VAG cars" like most mechanics would have you to believe. The EPC light is a mandatory part  of the OBD-II system hence fitted as standard equipment on "all post '96 cars". OBD regulations are written into Government legislation globally so that in time, the Department of Transport (DoT) may require all vehicles to regularly go for mandatory carbon emission tests in order the achieve road roadworthiness. They will access your cars under dash 16 pin obd connector to check its "Readiness Status". Readiness is an 2 x 4 digit binary number (hexadecimal) that look something like 1011 0110 or 1110 0101 or 0000 0000 or any combination of zeros and ones which is subject to the workings of equipment fitted in your vehicle.

Anyway, if you don't know, VAG stands for Volkswagen AG. The AG is an abbreviation for Aktiengesellschaft - implying incorporated. Aktiengesellschaft is the German term for a Public Limited Company (PLC). Thus the  VAG group is comprised of ten car brands  viz, Volkswagen, VW Commercial vehicles, Volkswagen Marine, Audi, SEAT, CUPRA, ŠKODA, Lamborghini, Porsche, Bentley and Ducati, spanning across five European countries.  In a nutshell most if not all these vehicles have a EPC light and torque control circuit operated via drive-by-wire as standard equipment. But as mentioned previously, an EPC lights with drive-by-wire and brake-by-wire is not exclusive to VAG cars.  

This torque circuit (throttle-by-wire) is a collection of interconnected electronic components amongst which are the car's battery, ignition switch, throttle body position sensor / potentiometer and throttle body actuator / stepper motor. The ECU itself, the braking system sensors and the wiring harnesses that supplies voltage / earth and feedback to and from the accelerator position sensor/ potentiometer and the throttle body motor, the cruise control switch, the instrument cluster and even one of the brake globes itself.


Possible problems

So by implication, with so many points of failure, so much can go wrong, For example, a loose battery terminal could cause the accelerator potentiometer input voltage to momentarily disappear for a fraction of a second, thus detected by the ECU which  would then trigger limp mode. It could also be caused by a speck of dust has settled on the potentiometer slider that creates a brief intermittent contact. The ECU will however detect this and implement limp mode. 

Then there is the dozens of wiring harnesses with their hundreds of connections. Several of them instrumental in the automotive torque circuit. Since electronics has taken over our cars, some having more than 3 dozen individual harnesses, collectively  comprising of more than 3000 wires and a third as many connectors. It gives you an idea of multitude of electrical problems that can occur.

Male and female wiring harness connectors used in the automotive industry are fairly reliable however due to the under-bonnet conditions like extreme engine heat and morning freezing temperatures, humidity, steam, condensation, oil splatter, dust and vibration, can collectively give rise to corrosion inside wired plugs and sockets. Corrosion normally causes high resistive electrical conditions which upsets the functionality of the circuit concerned.  

This could cause a myriad of problems in a myriad of circuits among which could be the MAF circuit, causing poor driveability and sudden jerking motions during acceleration flanked by untimed detonations.  It could be the MAP circuit causing poor fuel economy and difficult starting and rough idling. Catalytic converter wiring would cause dark exhaust smoke that  smell like rotten eggs due to the excess sulphur and the engine performance will be sluggish..... etc. Wait for the follow-up!


Sunday, April 18, 2021

High Speed Computers

HIGH SPEED COMPUTERS

All modern-day motor vehicles using our roads today; and those manufactured since 1996 can literally be referred to as COW ("computers on wheels"). Since your car is less than 25  years in age, it certainly has a computer on board, but the level of control it has over your car is determined by its recentness.  So the more recent your car the more  control the computer has over its functionality. 

BLACK BOXES

However, the computer in question is unlike the ones with the LCD screen, keyboard and mouse that everyone is familiar with, yet very similar in its processing ability. One  could say these computers are akin to the flight recorders fitted to aircraft which in  avionics are commonly called "black-boxes". But unlike the traditional PC, automotive  "black-boxes" are heavily regulated by standards and legislation regarding consumer  safety. 


ECU

Industry wide automotive "black-boxes" are commonly known as Electronic Control Units abbreviated ECUs and is the home of on-board diagnostics software, named OBD II. This  on-board diagnostic system in essence is a combination of hardware and software  running an intelligent system that incorporates various types of the sensors, each  integrated into the vital areas of the vehicle that monitors its overall performance.The most common of which are the engine RPM sensor, the crankshaft and camshaft  position sensors, the car's air and coolant temperature sensor, the oil level sensor, road speed sensor, the accelerator pedal and throttle control sensor which is also  known as drive-by-wire. The software consists of over 100 million lines of code which pools and controls dozens of electronic control units (ECUs) via the CAN  protocol and CAN bus thus able to manipulate everything from Engine Electronics to ABS braking system, to Steering Assist, to Infotainment System, to Heating/Air  Conditioning, to Airbag, to Instrument Cluster, to Tire Pressure Monitoring, to Back-Up Camera among so many other. 

SENSORS

As such, ECUs have revolutionized and souped-up modern motor vehicles, giving them added fuel efficiency, safety, pollution reduction, speed on demand, and an early  diagnostic malfunction detection. Restated, the ECU contains a self-diagnosis system capable of detecting glitches and small mechanical and electrical issues long before  they actually occur thus saving you thousands in tow-in charges and would be expensive repairs. It eliminates the need to cross the fingers when you start hearing  peculiar noises coming from the engine or transmission and it could prevent you from  getting stuck on the road.

DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES

Vehicle dependent, the OBD II system alerts the driver to any malfunction in real time by flagging errors by way of digital code, displayed on the dashboard. Decoding these  errors timorously and taking the necessary action would certainly avert more serious troubles later. Errors on vehicles without LCD display can be viewed with a diagnostic  scan tool when plugged into its 16-pin ODB II socket. These vehicles would then also have CEL (check engine light) / aka MIL (malfunction indicator lamp, an EPC light among  its menagerie of symbol warning lights. DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) are  essentially fault codes, presented as five-digit alphanumeric codes that identify a particular problem in one of four areas in the car, viz: P-Codes (Power train), U-Codes  (Chassis), B-Codes (Body) and U-Codes (User Wiring Bus Network). 

A few example of these codes are P0195 - Engine Oil Temperature Sensor, P0304 -  Cylinder 4 Misfire  Detected, B1000 - ECU Malfunction, B1713 - Mirror Switch R Down Input Stuck High, C0050 - Right Rear Wheel Speed Circuit Malfunction, C0611 - VIN Information Error,  U0130 Lost Communication With Steering Effort Control Module and U0324 Software Incompatibility with HVAC Control Module. Without a scan tool plugged into the OBD II  socket it’s impossible to extract the DTC from the ECU non-volatile memory, let alone  fix these faults.


GPS OBD II Module


ODB II SOCKET

It would therefore be fair to say that the OBD II socket has become the most important and indispensable means of diagnosing automotive problems hence also fair to say that  it has become the most used automotive receptacle since its inception. That being said, OBD II GPS tracker is now also the most convenient vehicle tracking device on  the market via GSM which plugs into a splitter / adapter cable. Armed with a SIM card, the GPS GSM module can be tracked on a cell phone tracking app and the software would even  allow its user to disable the car’s engine remotely via GSM /GPRS and OBD II in the event the vehicle is hijacked or stolen. Unlike GSM where the cost of a data call is  related to the time spent on the network, a GPRS data session is dependent on the amount of data sent and received. So by implication GPRS is “always on always  connected”. 


GPS MODULE

GPS modules generally have several convenient features amongst which is a real-time vehicle tracking system with a 180-day of tracking historical data accessible on a web  server. GPS has time accuracy of 1 microsecond and an accuracy of less than 10 meters. It will continue working even if the cars battery is removed as it has a built-in  180mAh/ 3.7V battery. GSM module also has a host of security features but the best  part of an OBD II GPS Tracker is that it's simple to install without any wire  connections. It is purely a DIY matter of plug and play. A splitter cable that plugs  into the cars original 16-pin OBD II port with two addition 16-pin OBD II ports, one for the GPS module and the other available to a scan tool. 


GPS OBD II Module

SECURITY RISKS

All this fancy gadgetry doesn't come with risks. The first of which is the CAN  protocol which suffers from several security issues that were originally ignored by  most vehicles manufactures. Reason being that the various automotive networks and  ECUs were initially designed to primarily gain physical access to the vehicle ECUs and speed / reaction-time was a secondary concern and more important that security which  was then placed on the back burner. With a GSM SIM card in the GPS module that can directly  communicate with the CAN bus and protocol it wouldn't be difficult for a hacker to gain access to the vehicle as it will be just another node on the internet. With remote interfaces like Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, or cellular that is accessible from  outside of the car, access can typically be gained, thus aftermarket OBD-II devices have the potential to introduce security risks to an automobile and compromise the safety of its passengers. Connecting directly to the vehicle in this manner could result in control over safety-critical functions as CAN, by design, offers no  protection from hacker manipulation.

With none existent comms security, somehow cars of the future with a CAN-Bus at its basis doesn't look it has a future at all. It reminds of other technologies that we were forced to abandon with the arrival of the new. Case in point, Vinyl Records for CD recorders, DVD that superseded video tapes, MP3 players that superseded audio cassettes and audio CD's, Flash drives that superseded removable media, etc. Solid state drives that is superseding hard drives. Would we have to abandon our CAN based cars like we did our other techno bits in favour of a new automotive protocols with features that has support for Kerberos, SSH, IPSec, OSPF authentication, VPNs, SSL and TLS?

Friday, November 9, 2018

What does it mean if the EPC warning light comes on in a Volkswagen?

What does it mean if the EPC warning light comes on in a Volkswagen?

Since the inception of the motor vehicle, several manufactures have claimed that their brand of car, has sold the most units globally. But since there is no definitive comparative yardstick to measure the exact amount of units sold,  Volkswagen claimed that their Volkswagen Beetle is the "bestselling car in history", considering they had sold more than 21 million units. To be more exact, The New York Times, date July 31, 2003 stated that the very "Last Volkswagen Beetle" manufactured was in fact number 21,529,464. 

Ford on the other hand manufactured their 1 millionth Model T's during the last month of 1915, with total sales of 15 million units produced by 1927 when they ceased production. In 1972 Volkswagen broke Ford's record when their 15,007,034th Beetle came off the production line in Puebla, Mexico. 



Be that as it may, Toyota boasts that in reality, their Toyota Corolla is the "bestselling automobile in the world", after reaching their 40 millionth unit in July 2013. But regardless of their claim, Volkswagen is undoubtedly still the "bestselling automobile in the world" seeing that the Volkswagen Beetle didn't change its shape or form since 1945 up to and including 2003, whereas Toyota used their Corolla label for eleven generations of Toyota cars, built since 1966 and this very Corolla label is still in common use. Non-the-less, statistically Volkswagen has been the best selling car globally until late 1998; meaning the Volkswagen Beetle remains the "bestselling vehicle ever". 



Enter the Volkswagen Kombi, Volkwagen City Golf, Volkswagen Fox, Vokswagen Jetta, Volkswagen Golf, Volkswagen Polo, Volkswagen Passat, Volkswagen Kombi, Volkswagen Sharan, Volkswagen  Toureg, Volkswagen Amrok, Volkswagen Transporter and the list goes on. However this entire Volkswagen fleet doesn't come without their fair share of  problems. The most common of which is probably the EPC light accompanied by limp-mode home.


What is the VW EPC Warning Light, 


The Electronic Power Control warning light, is commonly known as the EPC warning light. It's a dashboard warning indicator that suggests that there may be a problem with your Volkswagen’s throttle system. The throttle system consists of the accelerator pedal, the throttle body, traction control, cruise control, and the ECU, which is collectively called the drive-by-wire system. 
The drive-by-wire system is also sometimes referred to as an Electronic Throttle Control (ETC), roughly described as a technology that electronically "connects" the accelerator pedal to the throttle, instead of a mechanical linkage. 

In a drive-by-wire system, an electric stepper motor determines the angle of the throttle valve. How wide it opens or closes, is calculated by a —closed-loop control algorithm— software controlled embedded system built into the ECU. The ECU makes decisions based on various input data from several sensors, among which are, the accelerator pedal position sensors, engine speed sensor,  vehicle speed sensor, and the cruise control switch. The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) can also be described as a computerized ignition / engine management system  that operates in conjunction with the stability and cruise control systems. When the EPC light comes on, it means the problem is not emission related, whereas the Check Engine L
ight (CEL)indicates emission related problems but when it lights up, can be accompanied by the EPC light. If the EPC warning light comes on in your vehicle, it is important to have it seen to as soon as possible, because it you don't invariable it's going to trigger again when you least expect it.



EPC Car Warning Light


When the EPC light comes on in your Volkswagen, its throttle may be limited in power, yet have sufficient power to drive the car to a dealership or mechanical workshop, but it shouldn't be driven elsewhere. This is called limp-mode-home. Limp mode home is  inherent in its the software design in order to to protect the car from run-away and  its passengers from possible injury. Volkswagen cars equipped with a Electronic Stability Program (ESP) program, will display its ESP light instead of the EPC light and may automatically trigger the car into limp-home mode. 

Vehicles fitted with Traction Power System (TPS) are also prone to enter into 'limp-home-mode'  which effectively prevents software glitches from initiating or activating unintended acceleration.  In 2011 the U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) commissioned a team of NASA software engineers to evaluate software of late model year Toyota and Lexus vehicles, alleged to be the cause of  unintended acceleration collision, which caused the death of a passenger in a September 2007. 



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Friday, November 2, 2018

The Definitive EPC Guide 2

The Definitive EPC Guide (Continued)


For part ONE Click Here!

Having said that, in my humble opinion, the  EPC circuit with its drive-by-wire circuit and its "Limp-mode home" mode, is a value-add for modern car design; and though frowned upon by many, is a very valuable safety feature. Also bearing in mind that when the communication network is momentarily unavailable and an application that depends on it is unable to communicate, it may trigger the ECU into "Limp-mode home" and set a DTC. Exception errors do occur in  synchronous or asynchronous distributed system, where software entities act as clients or servers or both. So when where 1...n clients are requesting services via a specific protocol from typically one server; the server services the client  but  temporarily blocks its service request and data flow control, whilst other client expects a response from the server.  

If 1 client to n server communication can be established, it would certainly solve the problem but it’s currently not supported. Also remembering that the CAN bus is a serial communication network through which all modules communicate with the ECU via a Central Gateway, some uses FlexRay frames and others Lin bus or CAN, each with a differing topology, some synchronous and others asynchronous. The Central Gateway is responsible for frame or signal mapping function between two communication systems, like from LIN/MOST/CAN/FlexRay to Ethernet transport systems. However ECU gateways often have two or more internal Gateways like the Service Data Unit (SDU) gateway, Layer 3 Tunnelling Protocol (L3TP) gateway and the Signal Gateway needed for frame or signal mapping function between two disparate communication systems.

The best analogy with which to explain the above would be your cell phone. Cell phones are native Global System for Mobiles (GSM) devices with a microprocessor and its support chips, much like the automotive ECU. Cell phones support the Hypertext Transfer Protocol (HTTP) and the Wireless Application Protocol (WAP) for Wi-Fi as well as the Bluetooth communications protocol through a "Gateway" which translates it to a common data stream native to the Cell phone operating system. 

So, while you’re downloading an email and the phone rings and you answer; the email download temporarily stops but will resume when the call is terminated. The same applies to a Bluetooth file transfer which will be interrupted even possibly terminated when a phone call is answered. However, not all services are prone to such interruptions because some services are inherent to the design. For example, when you’re listening to music on your cell phone and you answer an incoming call, the music is temporarily suspended until the call is terminated then the music will resume. 

The definitive EPC book


This function is purposely part of the design whereas exception errors are not and are more prone to happen with asynchronous communication, caused by propagation delays. This is what also happens when the ECU inter communicates with other modules and when the messages are not delivered within a prescribed period of time, can cause the car to go into "Limp-mode home" So if for some reason the radio that is a non-essential service is hogging the network bus, and you step on the brake which the ECU will undoubtedly detect but the brake light didn't illuminate within the expected response time, which the ECU will also detect, then the car may go into "Limp-mode home" 

Or you could hit a speed bump in the road at high speed and bounce back onto the road; the thump if hard enough or loud enough to trip a knock sensor would cause the car to go into "Limp-mode home" . Or you could have just done some high rev spirited driving to cause the car to go into "Limp-mode home" . One consolation is that, when the ignition is initially turned on; right before the car is started the ECU does a self-test to verify that all’s well, and if that is the case, the car will start and drive normally. 

However, if the self-test fails, one of the caution lights may remain on. It could be either the EPC light or the Check Engine light or perhaps both, or one or both could be blinking, which is a sure sign that you may have a problem. Once again, a diagnostic scanned would be the most informative way of establishing what the problem is. But I’ve encountered car owner who took their vehicles for diagnostic tests and no errors were flagged, so in some cases may be a futile exercise. 

Having said that, if you are stranded along the road side, the best would be to reset the ECU by removing the battery earth terminal for a minute or two, but make absolutely certain that you have access to your radio / DVD code before  you disconnect. Whatever errors occurred prior to this will be safely stored in the ECU non-volatile memory and may be checked when a diagnostic scanner is available but all stored values will be lost.  The downside of doing this, is that an additional error would be flagged because the battery (+30V) supply was interrupted, and now the ECU has to relearn your driving style.

ECUs are fairly robust and are more-likely-than-not the cause of your EPC problems, though unlikely but not impossible.  The most likely component in my humble opinion that would cause constant and annoying EPC problems would be the wiring harness. Not the actual wires, unless they are frayed and damaged by rubbing against the chassis but rather its edge connectors. 

The ECUs and associated modules each have multi-pin connector that’s tin plated and can become intermittent due to the constant vibration of the car. Copper contacts also oxidizes fairly quickly, so to prevent this from happening, they are tin plated which provides for a low resistance, good contact surface. However when water enters this connection, especially in the presence of a voltage or current flow, the contact normally turns black or corrodes green, impeding continuity hence connectivity. 

A poor vehicle ground connection is another culprit that can intermittently trigger the EPC light without leaving a DTC.  A blown tail light / brake light bulb can also cause the EPC light to turn on without leaving a DTC. Always make sure that the replacement is a 12V 21/5W bulb because the wrong bulb will also cause the EPC to trigger also without leaving a DTC.  A faulty brake-light switch (DPST) is also commonly known for triggering the EPC light and sometimes causes the 10A fuse to blow. 

So, when the brake is applied and the switch throws, its contacts reverse, meaning the normally-open contact closes and the normally-closed contact, open. If there is a delay in the switching time, even as short as .5 of a second, the EPC light will trigger, without leaving a DTC.  A tell-tale sign that the brake-light switch is faulty or that the fuse is blown; is that the Cruise Control appears to be faulty. Since they are both interconnected, the Cruise Control is reliant on a voltage provided through the brake switch. 

DTC can often be intermittent or sporadic so it’s best to ignore those, in preference of repairing those that are permanent. In so doing, they may have interrelations and the sporadic ones may disappear after the permanent errors are fixed. So, it’s best to perform a diagnostic scan, preferably an autoscan with VCDS first, then delete all DTC in the process. Thereafter save this scan and printout a hardcopy to store with the vehicles registration papers. 

The importance of this printout is that it’s a reference to all the modules coding, and if something is inadvertently changed, there would be an unalterable record to refer to. Once done, and as mentioned above, disconnect the battery's negative terminal then disconnect the positive pole and place the battery on charge for about two hour.  Replace the battery by first connecting the positive pole then lastly the negative pole.

 By following this sequence you will prevent damage to the electronics modules strew throughout the car.  At this point, all pre-learnt and all stored values would have been erased from the ECU. Essentially all the control modules would have been completely reset, restarting with a clean slate.  After starting the engine and driving the car for a short distance, check to see if any DTC have been flagged.

Resetting an ECU occasionally is a good thing, because any and all electronic equipment with a microprocessor can experience an unrecoverable error or an internal parity error or fail a cyclic redundancy check and requires a "cold" system restart. Computer  memory (RAM) also experience memory read/write errors, interrupt or address errors and general protection errors; so  when the ECU is reset/cleared, along with its non-volatile memory, the memory (RAM) is also reset.  AUOTSAR and its core partners are trying their utmost to rectify such problems in automotive ECU, but until they do, we will have to contend with EPC problems.

To read the first part... click here.


Thursday, November 1, 2018

The definitive EPC guide

The Definitive EPC Guide

The following is the definitive guide to the Electronic Power Control (EPC), but before we continue, let me expound on what this guide is and what it's not. The very purpose of a guide is to provide information; to aid, give direction, to grant assistance, to facilitate, to support and to help you towards a solution or provide you with an explanation or an answer. However, even though this guide may furnish you with several answers, not every question can be satisfied by the same answers, though it could possibly steer you in the right direction. Hopefully you'll find this EPC guide definitive enough to provide you with the necessary knowledge to fix your Volkswagen, Audi, Seat or Skoda's EPC problem. Or at the very least, steer you in the right direction or share the lingo with which to discuss your EPC problem with your mechanic. 

But before I continue, let me first explain what EPC is. EPC stands for Electronic Power control and is a subsection of the OBDII. OBDII sometimes writen as OBD2 stands for On-Board diagnostics 2, which is composed of mandatory equipment installed in every motor vehicle manufactured since 1996. The purpose of this real time OBDII system is to control harmful exhaust emissions, by rigorously controlling the moment of combustion as close to the Stoichiometric  ideal as possible. Stoichiometric combustion is therefore controlled by an ECU (Electronic Computer Unit) in conjunction with the mass air flow components and the lambda oxygen sensors through constant feed-back in order to increases or decrease the short term fuel trim.  

To define an ECU instance, one could say that it consists of one microcontroller with its peripheral chips and its configured  software application.  This also implies that if more than one microcontroller in packaged in the same ECU housing, each microcontroller requires its own description of said instance. As such, each ECU forms an integral part of the OBD2 system, with strong interaction between hardware sensors and actuators; constantly monitoring and controlling several other engine components to provide the best engine performance at the most efficient fuel use , as well as provide the driver with the best driving experience. Another part of the OBD2 system is its network bus which interconnects several distributed computerized modules, ECUs, sensors and actuators, collectively geared towards better functionality and passenger safety. But before I get carried away, let me return to EPC.

The EPC sub circuit when triggered turns on the EPC light or LED which displays the letters EPC quite brightly in the display console. Many VAG car owners have asked “What's the meaning of EPC warning light when it comes on in a Volkswagen"? Short answer; it’s just a caution light like any other warning light, drawing your attention to a possible problem but with one exception. This exception is that the EPC light is an amber/yellow light and not red. 


The definitive EPC book


Much like road signs that have different colour boards for danger/warning than for  prohibitory/restrictive signs  or than for  service/information  purposes, the automotive sector uses, red lights to signify danger/warning which warrants immediate attention and amber/yellow lights for informative/attention which also requires your attention, though not immediate. When the ECU detects that the engine oil is low for example, it turns on a red light – red oil-can image – which implies that it's dangerous to drive the car in that condition because its engine could seize and therefore begs you to respond and remedy this situation immediately. 

Likewise when your handbrake in engaged, a red light – red disk with a P or exclamation mark inside –  is displayed, implying that it's dangerous to drive with the handbrake engaged, expecting you to release it immediately. Disregarding this red light and driving the car with the handbrake engaged could cause the brake pads to overheat and fail to function when needed but that’s to say if the car would even move from its stationery position with the brake engaged. Headlights on the other hand are indicated by a green dashboard light or a blue dashboard light when the Brights are switched on, neither implying danger nor attention. So in that sense, the yellow EPC light is just an attention light, much like the yellow safety-belt-light provides information that you haven’t bucked up or the yellow reserve-fuel tank-light informing you that you would have to add fuel shortly.  

Very importantly, a yellow light doesn't mean disregard, because disregarding a fuel tank yellow light could leave you stranded without fuel along the roadside. Or disregarding the yellow seat belt light could result in a traffic fine for non compliance to traffic laws. Therefore do not disregard the yellow EPC light and have the possible problem seen to at your earliest convenience. I hear you asking “What can I do when the Yellow EPC light comes on"? Normally when the EPC light comes on, it is accompanied by "Limp-mode home" and sets a DTC in the ECU non-volatile memory. So you need to have your car scanned with a diagnostic tester to determine and analyse the DTC error. 

I hear you asking "What is limp mode". Short answer, when the ECU detects a problem in the toque circuit it prevents the engine from revving above 2000rpm. In effect, it limits the electronically controlled throttle valve – Drive-by-wire – from opening wider.  “So what’s this Drive-by-wire thing”? you may ask.  Well the drive-by-wire circuit is a sub circuit of the EPC circuit and it simulates an accelerator cable, where the depression of the accelerator pedal is monitored by the ECU which in turns drives the throttle body valve open, in unison with the pedal action without any physical cable connection. Essentially it's an electronic version of an accelerator cable /acceleration process. Its electronic circuit is composed of dual sensors constantly monitored by the ECU, and any interruption in its data, will more-likely-than-not trigger "Limp-mode home", turn on the EPC light and set a DTC.

The ECU also constantly monitors the dual sensors in the throttle body as well as  the motor that drives the throttle body butterfly valve. Any interruption in its data will more-likely-than-not trigger "Limp-mode home", turn on the EPC light and set a DTC. This is a safety feature built into OBD2 to prevent the car from going into runaway mode with the possibility risk of injury. Image what would happen when a frayed accelerator cable jams inside its armoured sleeve, unable to decelerate the engine whilst travelling at a speed in excess of 72kph. Considering more than 50% of all accidents in rural areas happens at speeds between 72kmph and 80kmph whereas 70% of all fatal crashes on the freeway occurs at speed of 100kmph or higher.


Continue to part TWO.... Here!



Sunday, September 16, 2018

My EPC light came on

My epc light came on

Virtually every  motoring enthusiasts who owns a Volkswagen Golf TDI  simply loves its torque; its drive, its racy performance, its braking, its fuel economy and especially its manual transmission model. Be that as it may, 6 out of 10 Volkswagen and Audi owners are unhappy about Volkswagen as a whole. Unhappy about their cheating devices, unhappy about the emission scandal, unhappy about the entire VW TDI buy back claims processes, but more specifically unhappy about having to give back the car that they love so much.



According to the 225-page court document that outlines VW’s settlement, which reads,

“At the present time, there are no practical engineering solutions that would, without negative impact to vehicle functions and unacceptable delay, bring the 2.0 Liter Subject Vehicles into compliance with the exhaust emission standards.” 

This is so wrong on so many different levels hence most VW and Audi owners are completely pissed-off -pissed-off at Volkswagen. Event hough most VW TDI enthusiasts haven't returned their cars, they are already missing them, even before it's taken back; all of them very unhappy about it. It's always good to be optimistic about the buyback outcome but pessimistically speaking, VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda owner's are all complaining about their cars, ranging from, 

"My epc light came on and I lost power",  to 

"I got stranded on the side of the highway today for  almost an hour when my EPC light went on",  to 

"The first time it happened, the EPC light turned on and loss of  power lasted for a day and then it went away on it's own",  This is now the third time this happened, the EPC light comes on and then my car just loses power", 

"I took my car to the VW agents for a EPC problem who then said they  found a few error code but they didn't know what was wrong, so they just reset them",  

"Totally disgusted, by the dealer's complete and utter  disregard to accept responsibility for their pathetic  workmanship. They threw a dozen parts at the problem at my cost and the EPC problem is still not solved", 

I've kept track of all the faults on my VW Polo, and it fills a foolscap page.  It ranges  from interior parts falling off, the foot rest lodging itself under the brake pedal whilst driving, the brakes randomly engaging and causing under steer, to continual  creaks from the suspension, the gearbox is crap, not to mention my daily battle with an EPC issue. My Polo's been back to VW a full 58 days during this  year, yet they still haven't fixed all the issues and  as a result I very nearly caused 2 accidents due to  the on-going braking issue, and the EPC going  into limp mode on an on-ramp,  

I've spent more than a  year trying to solve  the problem “EPC” light problem, I've already  replaced  the Acceleration pedal, Two sensors located  under the engine, Cambelt kit, Throttle Body, all the  injectors and the ignition coils and the ECU,   but the light still regularly comes on,  


The VW guaranteed future Value a Rip-Off! I have never  been so dissatisfied with help from customer service and  will NEVER EVER purchase another Volkswagen nor recommend it to anyone I know, because of the shoddy  way we were treated. The staff working in VW credit and financial are rude and disorganized, no wonder they losing all their customers.They charged me for items covered by the warranty.


And the list goes on. These are only a few of the nice clients  I wouldn't want to repeat what some of the other "not so nice" clients said about Volkswagen and their cars, especially about the EPC light and limp mode. Electronic power Control (EPC) has become part of every VW, Audi, Skoda and Seat owners vocabulary, yet few understand what it really is. So allow me to put you in the picture.

Electronic Power Control

The EPC warning light is just a regular warning indicator light, much like your handbrake light or your oil indicator light.  The handbrake light just tells you that the hand break is engaged, alternatively that it hasn't been released. Likewise the oil light is a warning indicator that alerts the driver to the fact that the oil is low. In the very same vain the EPC warning  light is just an indication that something awry has happened in your Volkswagen's torque system, which is a sub-circuit of the Electronic Power Control Circuit.  

So what exactly is the torque system ? you may ask. Well is consists of various interlinked components, where the functionality of one is subject to another. These components are your  Volkswagen's entire drive-by-wire system, incorporating the  accelerator pedal, the throttle body, the cruise control, the traction control, the breaking system, the fuel pressure system, the knock sensors and the ECU, along with the wiring harnesses that inter-connects all these components. The wiring harness is a safer substitute for accellerator cable in all drive-by-wire systems.  

The accelerator pedal

The accelerator pedal for that matter, has 2 independent potentiometers inside a module that's permanently bonded to the pedal itself. These 2 potentiometers are call senders by Volkswagen and known as G79 and G185, but I will use these terms interchangeably.  This module is connected to the ECU via a 6 wire harness, essentially 3 wires per senders. Before, I continue, let me tell you what a potentiometer is, if you not familiar with the term. Another name for a potentiometer is variable resistor or a rheostat. It is most commonly used as rotary the control knob on a radio, with which to control the level of its volume. It is also commonly used in  the bedroom light dimmer to adjust the level of light needed. 

Each sender has 3 pins, 1 for each end of its resistor and 1 pin for its wiper. All three pins of each sender are connected to 3 pins specific pins of the ECU. The ECU sends each sender a high and a low voltage across their resistors and receives a difference fed back voltage from each sender's wiper. The 2 wiper feedback voltages are referenced and inverted to one another and translated by the ECU as how much the accelerator pedal is depressed.  Should  the ECU loose either of the wiper inputs for even a fraction of a second, the ECU limp mode program will execute, the EPC light will come on and the engine wont rev higher that 2000 rpm any longer. When my EPC light came on, I traced it back to a fault/ intermittent accelerator pedal due to error codes P1630  to P1634 and P1639.


The throttle body

Much like the accelerator module, the throttle body also has 2 integrated potentiometers called angle sensors known as G186 and G187. They inform the ECU how wide open or closed its butterfly is. The throttle body also has a built-in stepper motor known as an actuator. The ECU essentially translates the accelerator pedal position to a voltage / pulse train that drives the stepper motor, that in turn opens and closes the throttle body butterfly, controlling  air flow between air filter and intake manifold.  In a nutshell, a remote control system that mimics the operation of an accelerator cable. If for any reason the throttle body is removed or dismantled, it would be necessary to perform the adaptation procedure. When my EPC light came on, I traced it back to a  throttle body problem with error codes P1171 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Implausible Signal.

The cruise control

When the cruise control is enabled, a signal is sent to the ECU to this effect, which in turn sends the necessary voltage / pulse train to the throttle body stepper motor to keep it steady and received feedback from G186 and G187 to further control the process., ignoring the accelerator pedal until the brake is applied or receiving a signal change from the accelerator pedal. Should something go awry in this process, cruise control will be canceled, the ECU limp mode program will execute, the EPC light will come on and the engine wont rev higher that 2000 rpm any longer. When my EPC light came on, I traced it back to a  cruise control switch problem with error codes  00895 - Cruise Control Switch (E45) Defective.


Saturday, November 4, 2017

Loss of Power

LOSS OF POWER

On Sunday past, whilst taking my family for a drive along our scenic coastline on the Western Cape, I happened to see no less than three Volkswagen cars, each being loaded onto a roll-back. A VW Polo Vivo in Muizenberg, an Audi S4 in  Fish Hoek and a VW Scirocco in Scarborough. I couldn't help but feel awkward about my own Volkswagen Polo because after all, three out of three vehicles on the roll-backs were Volkswagen manufactured cars. I would have felt loads better if at least one of them were a Toyota or a Ford or a Honda. Understandable there are a lot more Volkswagen vehicles on the road than any other make, hence the higher failure rate.  

However, I instinctively pulled over for a chat with the driver of the Scirocco to inquire about the problem. It's owner Gwendaline. apparently parked her car to go for a walk on the beach and when she returned, had difficulty in starting her car. When it finally started , the whole car shook like her washing machine does in its spins cycle.  According to her, the Scirocco  is  really an excellent car with very few issues other than regular EPC light issues; and that its 18 inches tyres are a bit expensive. So we started talking about the EPC - Electronic Power Control and she seems really knowlegeable about it.  Our conversation went something like this.

Electronic Power Control

The EPC warning light, is just an indicator light powered by the Electronic Power Control circuit. Most people are under the impression that it indicates that there is something wrong with the engine when it light up. But this is not exactly the case, because the EPC light does come on when a brake light is fused or the fuel tank cap isn't properly closed.  When The EPC warning light flashes or stays on, it merely alerts the driver to a problem that may exists in your Volkswagen's throttle system. The throttle system encompasses  the throttle body, the throttle control motor, the accelerator pedal, the drive-by-wire electronics, the traction control, the cruise control, the stability control, the fuel delivery system and even the braking system and all their sensors, etc.. 


What does it mean when the EPC warning light turns on in a Volkswagen?

The throttle body motor opens and closes the butterfly valve located on the intake manifold which regulates the amount of air that goes into the engine, in relation to the position of the accelerator pedal. Implying the higher the air flow into the engine, the more fuel the ECU injects, thereby increasing  or decreasing the power output of the engine. When a problem is detected in the throttle system, a signal from one of the sensors triggers the  ECU into illuminating  the EPC  warning light. 


The Electronic Power Control (EPC) is just a part of the Engine Management System, which in turn is part of the overall On-Board Diagnostic II system. Normally when the a problem is detected that causes the EPC light to turns on, it also sends fault codes to the dashboard module or gateway module, vehicle model dependent. These fault codes can be retrieved by an ODBII scanner / smart phone, which are key to isolating the area of the throttle system that has failed. Most EPC light and ESP light problems will limit your Volkswagen's output power, commonly known as "limp mode".  

It is advisable that when either the EPC or ESP lights turn on, the problem associated with it be repaired timeously. A Volkswagen in limp mode should not be used to run errands, and since the car has sufficient power to drive it to  dealership or mechanical repair shop, it is best to do so. Normally once the fault / problem is remedied the EPC or ESP light will turn off. However, there are hundreds if not thousands of Volkswagen owners who have taken their Volkswagen cars into dealerships for repair, only to encounter the same EPC / ESP problem a day or two later.  Some of them suffer with EPC problems for months and I personally know of someone who had an EPC problem for more than a year. That's enough to drive the sanest person nuts.


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My W Polo classic 2003 model's EPC light is on and there's no acceleration. My VW Jetta's dashboard displays the word  EPC, now it has no power. My VW Golf diplay the letters Epc, what can I do?  My VW Golf IV cluster shows both epc and esp and it won't revv up, nor go more than 70 km/h. My VW Sirocco 2017 model's epc light has come on again. My car's EPC light is on and I don't know what to do?  

Friday, November 3, 2017

Is EPC safe?

IS EPC SAFE?

The Electronic Power Control Circuit with its EPC light virtually has every motorist annoyed globally. Most motorists seem to be up in arms over this "idiotic warning light". Yes, this is exactly what several clients have called it because they believe manufacturers added it into cars as  a "cash cow" measure, which the dealer will reset by just pressing a button and charge then through there noses. This is really not the case because there are so many dealer's mechanical workshops that have no idea how to fault find nor repair and EPC fault. Motorists have even gone as far as saying the the EPC circuit is an unnecessary addition, as the tried and tested Otto Cycle internal combustion engine has worked perfectly for at least a hundred years without it.  

Without question, the EPC light is probably the most misunderstood dashboard light plaguing motorist the past two decades. However the EPC circuit is in fact a safety feature that few seem to appreciate. But is doesn't work in isolation, it is a sub circuit of a the ECU circuit. The ECU overseas the running of the running of engine at its peak whereas the EPC circuit is specific to the torque circuit - whatever propels the vehicle and safely stops the vehicle!

For example, in older cars that used a physical cable to control the throttle; it was prone to fray and could easily get stuck whist driving at high speed. This actually happened hundreds if not thousands of times, hence an alternative was imperative. When releasing the accelerator pedal with a frayed cable the engine would remain at a high rev and make braking difficult if not impossible. Restated, an accident in the making. This will never happen with cars fitted with EPC because it uses drive by wire - which in effect is an electronic throttle control,

Some Volkswagen vehicle problems makes driving in traffic very difficult let alone dangerous due to loss of braking & steering assistance. Case in point, when the ABS warning light comes on, its more often than not a melted fuse located on the battery cover that dies from metal fatigue or caused by faulty  or  intermittent connection on the wheel rotation sensor wiring.  Or if one of the brake light burns out, the EPC circuit would determine that the car is not in a "roadworthy condition" and instruct the ECU to disables propulsion so that the necessary repairs can be effected.

The EPC circuit monitors several sensors and when anyone of them go out of whack, the EPC kicks in, to the rescue of the driver by sending the car into limp mode. Admittedly not everyone shares the sentiment that "limp mode" is a safety measure because if appears to causes more feelings of frustration than feelings of safety. There are tens of thousands of motorists who would testify to the latter, myself included. I experienced  loss of power whilst driving on the freeway with a large trucks behind me, that almost wiped me out if I hadn't swerved out of its way just in time.

I'm almost certain you've had a similar experience with your Volkswagen. My sister had such an experience with her grandchildren in the car ad she swore she would never drive a Volkswagen again.


EPC ELECTRONIC POWER CONTROL

EPC ELECTRONIC POWER CONTROL Q & A

Common causes for EPC warning light illumination

Over the past few weeks numerous questions came pouring in, really fast and furious, most of them at a loss about the EPC light on their vehicles. Below are a few of the VW owner's questions, accompanied by my answers that may have solve their EPC light problems. However, the symptom they present may be similar to your car's symptoms but the cause may not be identical, so therefore the answer may not exactly fit your problem, but it could at least but you the right track. If  you suddenly see the yellow EPC dash board light illuminate on your Volkswagen, Polo, Golf, Kombie, Jetta, Passat etc. don’t panic. 

The EPC light is amer/orange because it's an informational /warning light, whereas a red dashboard light calls for immediate attention, for example when the the oil or water dashboard lights comes on. EPC stands for Electric Power Control (EPC), and  is a computerized ignition and engine management system that can alert you to a potential engine malfunction, as well as alert you to a variety of engine issues, though most of them are fairly simple to diagnose and repair. Bearing  in mind other systems such as stability  control and cruise control can also have an effect on the EPC system.

QUESTION:- 

My VW Golf VI 2010 model shakes when I accelerate, then it suddenly looses power and the EPC light illuminates. Can you please help. What could be the cause of this  and please tell me how to fix it.


ANSWER:-


Most VW engines have a flat-plane crank, meaning the inner two pistons move up and down together, in opposition to the two outer pistons, each providing 90 degree crank propulsion. When one of the cylinders are not doing their portion of the work, the crank is unbalanced and will cause the entire car to shake. This normally happens when either an injector or a coil on one of the cylinders is misfiring. Since the EPC circuit monitors the engine torque, it will illuminates the EPC light when it diagnoses that 25% of its torque is lost. By restoring the 25% torque by replacing the faulty component, either the coil or the injector by a process of elimination, the shaking will stop. 

Then again, I experience severe shaking on my Polo 2.0 one day, for some reason o the other, two blades of he radiator fan  snapped off and the centrifugal force of the two remaining blades shook my entire car really violently. Its the first time I experience something like that and at that moment in time I got such a fright, my heart was pounding in my throat.

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QUESTION:-

I have a Golf Polo 2012 model that's been to the agents for regular diagnostic tests because its been more than a year that they've been trying to resolve the “EPC” light  problem.  The following items have been replaced but the light still comes on -
Ignition coil, Throttle Body, Accelerator pedal, Four injectors
Cambelt kit, RPM sensor .

ANSWER:- 

Since so many components have been replaced, I would suggest you upload a diagnostic scan so that I can analyse it because the above looks like guess work. There are so many things that can trigger the EPC, but don't replace anymore components until you've checked:-

1) The rubber hoses to the MAF for cracks,
2) Cleaned out the tar-like deposits in the throttle body,
3) Cleaned the idle speed control and butterfly valve with Wynn’s Throttle Body and Air Intake Cleaner, 
4) Performed a throttle body adaptation, 
5) Checked that the knock sensors are properly torqued,  
6) Checked for the correct spark gap on your spark plugs, 
7 Checked that your engine temperature coolant sensor works, 
8) Checked that your fuel cap seals properly, 
9) Checked that your fuel pump isn't noisy, because if it is, its probably pumping under the required pressure. 
10) Checked the wiring loom connecting to the pencil coils and the fuel injectors for intermittent contact. 

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QUESTION:-


Please tell me why does my Polo's engine switches off while I'm driving? When I try to accelerate there's no power and when I looked at the dashboard, the  EPC Dashboard Warning Light is on. That's when I realize the engine is not running. But thereafter my Polo wouldn't restart, not until  it cooled for a while. Then my polo will then drive perfectly normal until the next time the EPC light comes on again.

ANSWER:-

This sounds very much like an  Engine Speed Sensor problem. Normally when they do go faulty the car will not start at all.  It is common for the EPC light to come on, by which time the engine died and after about 2 hours everything is back to normal. However its seems like your Polo's sensor is just starting to give trouble. This is a hall sensor, that generates a waveform whenever it senses the rotational magnetic pulse. But when it gets too hot, it starts to fail. I've had hall sensors located inside the distributor go faulty on Opel Kadett GSI due to engine heat in peak hour traffic but after it cools down, the Opel starts and drives normal.  It seems like hall sensors don't like heat.   
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QUESTION:-

I had my Volkswagen cc R-Line's  brake pads replaced after 48,000 kilometers  but now every time when I accelerate the EPC light comes on and there's no power. I'm totally miserable because the car is now useless. Can you please shed any light on this matter?   


ANSWER:-

Dude, its more likely than not that you've picked up a wheel speed sensor problem from your mechanic. One of two things, either the plug to the ABS wheel sensor isn't making good contact / the wire from the sensor is broken off or the gap between the ABS sensor and the disk is wider than it should be. It's very unlikely that the sensors are faulty because it probably worked fine before your mechanic replaced the pads. A telltale sign is that your speedometer isn’t working because the front sensors are also the input for the speedo.

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QUESTION:-


I was cruising on the freeway and suddenly the power just cut out and there was no more acceleration and the EPC light went on. I thaught my VW Jetta ran out of fuel because the fuel gauge was on empty but it didn't because I could still drive it slowly. but it wouldn't revv up.  I took it to the agents who said it was caused by driving with a little fuel in the tank. But now the same thing has happened to me four times thereafter. What can I do because the agents say there is nothing wrong.


ANSWER:-

If truth be told, your intank fuel pump must have overheated when you were driving with an empty tank. Remember the fuel pump is cooled and lubricated by the fuel in the tank and when there is no more fuel to cool and lubricate, the pump can overheat.  Also, if there is debris in the tank, it can block the filter or pipe attached to the pump. Since this is a low pressure pump  it won't have force to clear the debris and wont be able to feed fuel to the high pressure pump driven by the camshaft. It's probably best to have your fuel line cleared under pressure alternatively replace the fuel pump.

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QUESTION:-

I have an Audi A4 with a early model 2.0T engine. For the past few weeks starting from cold in the morning has been a problem but since yesterday, it seems to have lost all power it power and the EPC light is on. With the pedal to the floor in any gear, the rpms increase but the car just won't pickup speed.  

That seem to a common issue with the older Audi A4 models. It's normally the high pressure fuel pump pawl that's busted, which probably destroyed the lobe on the camshaft as well. Sometimes the pressure of the camshaft hollows out and destroys the cylinder head. Check the high pressure at the output of high pressure pump, it it's low then  it's definitely the pump and camshaft combination.