Annoying VW EPC light

VW EPC expounded

As I've explained in an earlier blog, the amber Electronic Power Control warning light on your car's instrument cluster, is just an indicator light; drawing your attention to either (1)  an Auto-Correct EPC Problem, (2) a Pending EPC Problem, (3) an Existing EPC Problem or  (4) a Current EPC Problem. 

An Auto-Correcting  EPC problem occurs when the EPC light goes on without noticeable difference in engine performance and goes off during subsequent drive cycles which may be within a day or two or longer.

A Pending EPC Problem could be something as simple as a spark plug misfiring intermittently and appears in the scan list but after a while becomes an Auto-Correcting EPC problem alternatively if the plug continues to misfire it becomes and Exising EPC problem.

An Existing EPC Problem could be something like the MAF sensor or a accelerator pedal sensor that needs cleaning or replacement and a Current EPC Problem normally results in limp mode.

EPC light is bright YELLOW/AMBER and acts as a indicator, it is not as a warning light. 
Warning light are always RED.

EPC light is bright YELLOW/AMBER and acts as a indicator light, an advisory light; it is not as a warning light.  Warning light are always RED. Since the ECU "learns your driving style" over time, it records your optimize drive cycles to non-volatile memory along with atmospheric pressure, min & max rpm and the average fuel use data, etc, then creates an adaptive pattern or map based on these parameters. 

When this map is compared to sudden spirited driving, it may trigger the EPC light but will auto-correct (reset) itself after a few driving cycles within a day or two. Sometimes the EPC light may be accompanied by the Check Engine Light (CEL).

A Pending Problem can cause the EPC light to come and not switch off on its own. Pending implies that the problem will only get worse if left unattended to. A diagnostic scanner is needed to view the DTC error, hence its really worthwhile investing in one. 

For example, assume that cylinder number 3 randomly misfired a few times as the pending problem. The scan freeze frame data will show something like this.

000771 - Cylinder 3

               P0303 - 000 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent

             Freeze Frame:

                    Fault Status: 00100000

                    Fault Priority: 2

                    Fault Frequency: 7

                    Reset counter: 255

                    Mileage: 38187 km

                    Time Indication: 0

                    Date: 2021.11.05

                    Time: 21:09:58

             Freeze Frame:

                    RPM: 758 /min

                    Load: 13.1 %

                    Speed: 0.0 km/h

                    Temperature: 51.0°C

                    Temperature: 33.0°C

                    Absolute Pres.: 830.0 mbar

                    Voltage: 12.435 V

What this means is that cylinder misfired 7 time, and that the most recent misfire occurred at the displayed time and date highlighted in red and has a fault priority of 2.  Fault priority of 4 or lower needs to be attended to immediately since it affects the driveability of the car. Don't ignore the VW EPC light.  

Fault priority of 5 and above doesn't require immediate attention but must be attended to sooner rather than later. The freeze frame date shows that the car was idling and 758 rpm with the speed at 0 kph and that the engine hasn't reach its optimum operating temperature as yet. In a nutshell, freeze frame captures the engine operating conditions at the time when the EPC error occurred.

An Existing EPC Problem could  mean either the throttle pedal, throttle body, or brake control unit or any other circuit related to the torque circuit, like the  cruise control unit or the traction control unit is misbehaving.  However the EPC light can also indicated an unrelated problem like a loose fuel cap. With the EPC light on, and a pungent fuel smell inside the cockpit would point you to fuel cap.  

Since the fuel is under pressure, the fuel pump, fuel regulator or fuel rail pressure sensor may also be suspect, each should be excluded through a process of elimination. Remember the Electronic Power Control system is integrated with several other systems on you vehicle, like the steering control unit and the ECU, hence it's not always easy to diagnose.

Its permissible to  drive your VW for a short distances and for a short period of time after the EPC light has triggered, that's to say if driveability hasn't been impaired but its best to either fix it yourself or take it to  VW service center. An  EPC dashboard light can be caused by any of the following, but in no particular order. Sometimes both the EPC light and CEL (check engine light) would turn on.

1) Brake Light Switch failure

2) Mass Air Flow Sensor failure 

3) Engine Speed Sensor failure 

4) Throttle System Potentiometer Failure

5) Cruise Control failure

6) Accelerator Pedal Potentiometer failure

7) Repeated cylinder misfires

8) Loose fuel cap

9) Blown / Faulty  brake light

Any of these can and may cause your vehicle to go into “limp mode” which can be described as a Current EPC Problem. When limp mode strikes, the Engine Control Unit will limits the functions of the torque circuit and transmission thus prevent your VW's engine from  revving higher than 2000 rpm and limit its speed to 30-45 kpm. 

Some mechanics would reset the EPC light by cleasing the DTC list without fixing the actual problem but this is not recommended. When the  Diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) are cleared,  "your driving style" map is also deleted, meaning that the ECU would have to relearn  "your driving style"  from scratch and your VW's performance may seem a bit off.  That's to say, until your racked up sufficient drive cycles (data) with which the ECU can do an analysis in real time. 

KNOCK SENSOR

VAG KNOCK SENSOR K1 AND THE EPC LIGHT

VW, Seat, Skoda  and Audi Knock sensors have become quite notorious for sending the car into "limp mode". Limp mode is a safety feature on all Drive by Wire vehicles, implying an EPC-electronic power control-but no accelerator cable. EPC implies torque control. By analogy,  its something like a horse that gets spooked and takes off at high speed and out of control with its rider unable to rein him in,  or a frayed accelerator cable that becomes stuck while driving at high speed. That's just a recipe for disaster. Imagine stepping on the brake pedal but the high revs of the engine just forces the car forward, smoke pouring from the brake pads to the point that the become glazed and  no longer has any effect. Pushing the transmission into neutral isn't an option because without the load, the engine is destined to blow, perhaps even push a piston  through the side of the engine lock.  Drive by wire prevents this from happening and cuts power to the powertrain if it detects a fault that puts the engine at risk. Knock reacts somewhat similar to backfire since both are due to detonation and pre-ignition-incomplete combustion.

Detonation is a common problem associated with lean fuel mixture -non stichometric-and torque. The EPC light is often triggered on an incline when the torque is insufficient to pull the car uphill when in an inappropriate gear. Knock sensors can detect combustion knocks in individual cylinders. Knock sensor 1 (G61) senses cylinders 1 & 2, and knock sensor 2 (G66) senses cylinders  3 & 4. To prevent combustion knock, the ECU cylinder selective knock control overrides the electronic control of the ignition timing by retarding the timing, but may not be unable to if the Fuel Octane is too low causing secondary combustion in the cylinder. Knock sensor 1 (G61) is known to trigger EPC light and activate limp mode, hence it needs to be checked for flush engine contact and correct torque. DTC  P0171 and P0174 could show up in scans.

The ECU calculates engine ignition timing based on input signals from Throttle Position (TP) Sensor G79 and  Accelerator Pedal Position G185, the  Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor G28,  the load signal from Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor G70, the signal from the Throttle Valve Control Module J338,  the Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor G62, both Knock Sensors G61, G66 (additional G198 & G199 on V6, W8 & W12 engines) and signals from Camshaft Position Sensors G40, G163, (additionally G300, G301 on V6, W8 & W12 engines) When the engine is below 40 degrees  celsius knock sensors signals are not used to make timing decisions. What this implies is that when the EPC light turns on  when the engine is still cold, the knock sensors are not guilty , neither  the the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor G70 nor the Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor G62 since whilst idling, have nothing to do with torque. That leaves the Accelerator Pedal with G79 & G185, the Throttle  Control body senders G187 & G188,  the  Engine Speed Sensor G28,  Camshaft Position Sensors G40 & G163 as the EPC limp mode culprits. However sensors are fairly reliable but the wiring  harnesses  are  more likely to be the cause of the problem, see wiring in Audi.

Fuel pressure regulator valve N276, the wastegate bypass regulator valve N75 and the  Ignition Coil N, N128, N158, N163 and its Power Output Stage N122 are three  more EPC culprits. Injectors N30-N33 can also cause the EPC light to turn on and cause car to go into "limp mode" but also causes the engine not to run smoothly. Once again before condemning the sensors or actuators, check the wiring harnesses to them.



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The above EPC errors are common to Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda and Seat. The  VW, the 4motion, the Amarok, the new Beetle, the Bora, the Caddy, the Corrado, the CC, the Eos, the Fox, the Golf, the Jetta, the Kombi, the Lavida, the Lupo, the Passat, the Polo, the Phaeton, the Routan, the Santana the Scirocco, the Sharan, the Tiguan, the Touran, the Touareg, the Transporter, the Vento , the Up and lastly the Vivo. The Audi A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, A6, A7, A8, the Q3, Q5, Q7, the RS4, RS6, RS8, the R8, the S4, S6, S8, Audi TT. The  Seat Alhambra, the Altea, the Arosa, the Cordoba, the Ibiza, the Inca, the Leon, the Mii and the Toledo,  Skoda  Felicia, the Octavia, the Fabia, the Superb, the Roomster, the Yeti, the Rapid and the Citigo. The Audi RS-6, A4 Fsi, Audi A4, Audi S3, Audi TT, Audi R8, audi a4 2.8 quattro 5 speed, Skoda fabia, seat leon, seat ibiza, Avant RS 2, Coupé, Audi A3 Mk1, Volkswagen Golf Mk4, Volkswagen New Beetle, Volkswagen Bora/Jetta Mk4, SEAT León Mk1, SEAT Toledo Mk2, Škoda Octavia Mk1,  TFSI, FSI, GTI, TDI, 

EPC DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHT

EPC DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHT

VW, Audi, Skoda and SEAT vehicles are crammed with wonderous technology, ranging from various electronic modules that overseas their general functionality to hoards of sensors that monitor how these vehicles behave and actuators that respond to software controlled decision making elements. One could say that collectively they give cars a degree of Artificial Intelligence and their seamless integration makes motoring a lot easier. But when something goes wrong, there is also a swarm of warning lights on the instrument cluster that will flash at you until you take corrective action. However, knowing exactly what each warning light flashing on its dashboard is trying to tell you, is a completely different story. Even though some of these light are self explanatory and fairly obvious to understand, others are not, and  can be interpreted by looking in the owner’s manual. Knowing what these warning lights mean is really important to drivers because they can preempt a potential breakdown or full-on engine failure, insulating you from expensive repair bills.

As a general rule, warning lights illuminated either red or amber (yellow /orange), though a blue light is often used to indicate high beam and green lights are used to mean indicate left and right  turn signals. On a VW Polo a red warning light emphatically means that something needs to be done immediately. For example, the Oil pressure warning light, or the low brake fluid level light, or the parking brake warning light, or the Coolant level low / coolant temperature high light, illuminates red or flashes red as a danger sign and needs immediate attention. Failure to remedy can result in the engine seizing, the brakes failing, damaging your rear disks and brake pads, or the engine overheating resulting in a possible blown head gasket or worse, respectively. On different model VAG vehicles, the use of red and amber light may overlap. 

An amber / yellow /orange light  on the other hand serves to be rather informative and draws the driver]s attention to a potential problem or a problems that needs to be remedied soonest. For example the amber Anti-lock braking system (ABS) light, or the amber Airbag light, or the amber Immobilizer light, or the Brake pad wear light, or the Engine fault Onboard diagnosis (OBD) light, none of which will impede driveability nor endanger the driver. But this isn't strictly true especially when encountering the dreaded yellow EPC light. 

WHAT IS AN EPC LIGHT?

EPC stands for Electronic Power Control and has  much to do with controlling the electronic throttle hence it is sometimes referred to as the "Electronic Pedal Control". Probably because the throttle valve is actuated by an electric motor rather than a physical cable between the accelerator pedal and the throttle control valve. In essence the engine control unit responds to the sensor on the accelerator pedal and sends a corresponding command to the throttle valve positioner via four wires which is commonly known as "Drive by wire". But the EPC is much more than just an Electronic Pedal Control. Any malfunctions in the either the "Drive by Wire" circuit  or its associated sensors are detected by self-diagnosis and indicated by the EPC warning light.

The Electronic Power Control (EPC) is a circuit made up of various engine components or sub circuits that collectively addresses torque. In reality it should have been called "Electronic Torque Control". Should  a problem arise in the torque system, it correspondingly illuminates the easily identifiable yellow/amber/orange word "EPC" in the instrument panel.  The EPC circuit's decision making elements are embedded into the ECU which is responsible for the electric throttle valve positioning and overall torque-oriented engine management.

As such the ECU has to gathers all torque demand inputs in order to correctly calculate the appropriate control actions. These inputs includes, the Engine speed, the Engine load signal fetched from the air mass meter, the Vehicle speed, the shift point of an automatic gearbox, whether or not the air conditioner compressor is ON or OFF, whether or not the the cruise control system is engaged, whether or not the Traction Control System is engaged  or the braking  system is applied.

The combination Brake light / brake pedal switch provides a braking input to the ECU, failure of the switch to send data of the drivers foot on the brake pedal can trigger the EPC light in certain VAG vehicles, but definitely on the VW Polo. Don't be fooled by the brake lights that are working, when the brake pedal is depressed because it does not imply that the brake pedal switch is functioning as it should. In similar fashion the Clutch Pedal Switch provides cruise control input to the ECU, engaging the clutch, automatically disengages the cruise control which could also trigger an EPC episode.

This EPC light will come on when there is a problem:-

1) With either of the accelerator pedal senders.
2) With either of the throttle angle senders.
3) With the throttle valve control unit
4) With the accelerator / throttle harness.
5) With the throttle adaptation.
6) With grime and carbon build-up in the throttle body. 
7) If the the Throttle Valve Control Unit is replaced.
8) With the Brake Light Switch
9) With one of the Knock Sensors.
10 With the Mass Air Meter (MAF).
11) with the Engine control unit
12) With the Ignition system
13) With the Fuel injection system
14) With the ABS
15) With the Power-assisted steering system
16) With Lambda regulation (fuel consumption signal)
17) With the Alternator
18) With the TCM

Bearing in mind the throttle valve control unit is located on the intake manifold and needs to ensure that the engine is supplied with the appropriate and proper air flow. By implication the MAF measures the air flow and should there be a problem with it, the  ECU will not be able to calculate the proper torque and possible go into EPC mode. The consolation is that every fault that occurs would normally create a DTC entry. So the best way to determine the cause of the EPC light coming on, associated with loss of power and limp mode, is to do a diagnostic scan. 


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EPC

ELECTRONIC POWER CONTROL

EPC LIGHT

The EPC fault indicator lamp is very well known among the VAG community, and for those not yet familiar with the EPC light;   it's an  amber symbol in the instrument panel displaying the uppercase letters EPC, which is the abbreviation for Electronic Power Control. This EPC lamp is often referred to by automotive technicians as K132.  EPC is synonymous to Drive-by-Wire which means that the vehicle concerned is fitted with an electrically controlled throttle valve. Restated, the old mechanical throttle cable has now been replaced by an electronic throttle control system. Vag vehicles fitted with  Motronic Engine Management version 5.9 ECUs  and older, still use a cable operated throttle interfaced with  a Throttle Control Module (TCM) and appear to be less susceptible to EPC related problems but not immune. Whereas vag vehicles fitted with Motronic Engine Management version 7.5 coupled to a Drive-by-Wire system appear to be somewhat more susceptible to EPC related problems. This is because ECUs with MEM 7.5  was specifically designed to handle the new torque-oriented  EPC function.   

However, the  bright orange EPC fault indicator light has absolutely no effect on the functionality of the Throttle Control System as a whole. When the ignition is initially turned on, it is perfectly normal for the EPC light to come on briefly,  then switch off again, if and only if it detects no Throttle Control System DTCs in memory and also determines that the TCS is working OK.  This ECU self diagnostic test takes all of 3 seconds. But, should a problem exist, the EPC light will remain on, since it needs to inform you of a DTC stored in memory  and that any additional TCS faults won't make it glow any brighter. (NB! There is no other visual way of showing you that there are several EPC errors other than with a scan tool). 

DRIVE-BY-WIRE

The Drive-by-Wire system consists of  an accelerator pedal module, that houses  two accelerator position senders, a throttle control module that also housing two position sensors,  a throttle
valve drive servo motor, an EPC light,  an ECU and of course the wiring to connect them together. 

THROTTLE CONTROL

The two accelerator position senders are a fixed part of the accelerator pedal and in reality are potentiometers. They get their supply voltage from the ECU that is capable of component diagnostics and constantly monitors its inputs. When the ECU detects that one potentiometer signal failed, it sends a DTC to the memory and turns on the EPC light then switches to the second potentiometer. It uses the accelerator pedal input voltage and translates its position  into an output voltage that drives the throttle body servo motor that controls the butterfly valve. The two throttle two position sensors, sends feedback to the ECU. Once again theses sensors are potentiometers, also monitored by the ECU and as above, if one potentiometer fails it sends a DTC to memory, turns on the EPC light then switches to the other potentiometer, but not necessarily in that order.

WIRING

The CAN Bus wire pair for the Powertrain  are Orange/Black and Orange/ Brown but there is also a supply wire (Red) and an earth (Black) wire, to each of the Drive-by-Wire components. Each of these wires have a plug and each of these plugs have at least four wires. Do the math and you could have 8 plugs - 32 male contacts pluging into 32 female contacts. The accelerator pedal potentiometers fault finding procedure.  Any of these contacts could be intermittent, all of which will cause the  EPC warning light to light up and if any of the Drive-by-Wire components fail will do the same. Considering cars drive on bumpy roads, withstand extremes engine heat and freezing temperatures at night besides rainwater that could find its way into the wiring harness. All of which could contribute to intermittent electrical connections.

REPAIRING EPC FAULTS

Repairing EPC faults are easy but needs to be systematic, because everything that can cause the problem needs to be thoroughly investigates and exonerated before the next item is suspect. Before any major or expensive components are replaced, check the wiring. Check the wiring, Check the Wiring.  Suspect the potentiometers first since they suffer from wear and tear. 

POTENTIOMETERS

A potentiometer is essentially a potential divider. Restated, its a three legged device, with a fixed high potential (voltage) and a fixed low potential (voltage)  at two of its legs. The third leg outputs a variable potential (voltage) less than the higher potential and more than the lower potential.  A potentiometer is normally made of bakelite or fibreglass with a carbon track attached to it.  The variable output makes contact with slider that runs on this carbon track. This sider/carbon contact isn't very good because its a sprung loader pressure contact. Besides when the carbon track wears through which is just a matter of time because it is constantly at work when you accelerate. It is going to give you the EPC fault guaranteed.

Feel free to upload your VW, SKODA, SEAT & AUDI scans.

WHAT IS A VW EPC WARNING LIGHT

What Is a VW EPC Warning Light

The EPC warning light is an instrument cluster based LED found on all Volkswagen, Audi, Seat and Skoda vehicles fitted with a drive-by-wire system and EPC stands for Electronic Power Control. However the EPC warning light is not exclusive to these VAG cars, most other motor manufacturers also have them, since it's legislated to be part of the OBDII system. This EPC light when lit displays the letters EPC and primarily warns the driver that there is problems in the engine's torque system - (acceleration system). The reason why the EPC turns on, problem could be many, among which are the vehicle's knock sensors, its throttle system, its cruise control, its mass air flow system, its engine speed verification system or any of the other associated systems that cooperate in the drive-by-wire schema. 

When this EPC light comes on, the vehicle’s throttle valve (butterfly) may be limited in order to protect the engine from damage. It prevents the engine from revving above 2000rpm. This is known as limp mode and the ECU permits just sufficient power to drive the vehicle to a service center for repairs. To remedy the problem, the vehicle’s ECU should be scanned with an automotive diagnostic too, in order to extract the DTC's related to the torque problem.  Cars with an accelerator cable are also fitted with an EPC light but the ECU software is quite different, yet the overall principal remains the same.

All Volkswagen (VAG) vehicles have a whole array of dashboard warning lights in their instrument panels, specifically designed to alert the driver to any vehicle malfunctions or problems. In fact so does all most modern day automobiles. Having said that, it is only a matter of time before these lights start lighting up. Invariably and inevitably all cars will breakdown at sometime or the other but its nice to be warned about a mechanical problem before it actually occurs. For example, having a low coolant level light or an low engine oil-level light flash at you, accompanied by an audio alert is a blessing because complete loss of either coolant or engine oil could result in a very expensive repair. 

The one warning light that puzzles most drivers is the VW EPC warning light. Driver often ask, what is the VW EPC warning light? Like I've mentioned above, it is a bright yellow dashboard light with the letters EPC inscribed in bold.it  When lights-up to draws your attaention to a potential malfunction in the EPC system. When it lights up whilst driving and the trouble is related to a safety issue, the car will more than likely go into limp mode. This may sound quite serious but in most cases it's not. There are several reasons why EPC Dashboard Warning Light turns on, but through a process of elimination the cause can be tracked down fairly easily. 

The Engine Speed Sensor is  known to cause the EPC light to turn on. The engine speed sensor is a proximity magnetic transducer counting the revolutions of the flywheel / crankshaft and sends a steady stream of pulses to the ECU. So when this stream of data is interrupted for whatsoever reason for only a fraction of a second, the ECU  detects this and turns on the EPC light and cuts power to the engine. It does this to protect the engine from damage. 

If you have a scan tool, check for DTC errors. The following error code, 17745 /P1337, 17746 / P1338, 17747 / P1339 and 17748 / P1340 are the troubles codes that provides a  tell tail sign that the engine speed sensor is either loose or faulty, hence the car's engine cuts-out whilst driving and the speedometer is inoperative.  But in some cases the engine will start again. When this symptoms repeats itself often, you should know it is time to replace that pesky engine speed sensor.

The Accelerator Pedal itself is often the main culprit that causes EPC problems. A telltale sign is that the engine idles a lot faster than it aught to. To verify this, physical pull the accelerator pedal away from the floor board while the car is idling. If it reduces the engine's revs back to normal, then it is time to replace it, because the potentiometers that's built into the the accelerator pedal, have gone faulty. Accelerator pedal problems are numerous and the following DTC, 16504 / P0120, 16505 / P0121, 16506 / P0122, 16507 / P0123, 18038 / P1630, 18039 / P1631, 18040 / P1632, 18041 / P1633, 18042 / P1634, are linked to accelerator pedal errors. 

Mass air flow sensor is another engine component that can cause the EPC light to turn on. Cleaning the  mass air flow sensor with compressed air does often solve the problem but if the issue persists, its time to replace mass air flow sensor. But before changing it, check to see if any of the rubber hoses in its vicinity isn't perished. An leak in Air Intake System wil allowing air unmonitored to enter the intake which will throw a P2279 / 15093 error or a P0068 / 15101 error.


The Throttle body is by far the most common cause of an EPC problem though in many cases it is not the throttle body that's at fault but rather that it the needs to be recalibrated (adaptation). The scan codes like P2135 / P2136 / P2137 / P2138 / P2139  and P2140, will give a  good idea as to whether or not the throttle body require replacement.  But in many cases it turns out to be  wiring harness issue. The plugs that connects the throttle drive motor and the throttle position sensors is fairly troublesome ad should be checked before throttle is replace.

The Brake light switch can also cause the EPC light to come on because the torque control circuit uses the brake light signal as a ECU input signal when the car decelerates.  

The Injectors and the Ignition Coils can also cause the EPC light to turn on. I've heard that an incorrect spark gap on the plugs can also cause an EPC problem but haven't experienced it yet.  Driving with very little gasoline in the tank can also cause the EPC light to turn on because the high pressure fuel pump may lose pressure which then notifies the ECU to inhibit the torque circuit and switch on the EPC light and make the car go into limp mode.

I've experienced the Knock Sensor turn on the EPC light. Spirited driving also turns on the EPC light.

So as you can see there are several things that can cause an EPC fault.  This is not a complete list of EPC problems but as new ones are identified, I will post them.  The following questions prompted me to write a synopsis of what an EPC light is!

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The EPC warning symbol came on today while driving. EPC Light and stalling. EPC light came on and can't start the engine. EPC light on, what does it mean ? EPC light and engine check light. EPC warning light. Epc light. EPC + power loss/no boost.  Do not exceed 4000 rpm  EPC light.   EPC error where the car shakes terribly.  ESP EPC & Engine Light ON.  EPC Light and Stalling. Polo bluemotion 58 plate and a yellow engine light came on. I read the manual but still not sure something to do with the exhaust??

A little help as my wife needs the car for work.2002 1.6L GOLF, EPC light on. POWER LOSS An EPC light will appear on the dash randomly whilst driving. Once it is on, there is a noticeable loss in power and it stays this way until the... volkswagon polo epc warning.step by step guide to turn light off please, preferably without visiting expensive vw garage. Have diagnostic computer to see code! EPC light came on and engine will not rev higher. I have a vw polo and the EPC warning light has come on what should i do? Orange light 03 vw polo. VW Polo Map sensor fault code idling poorly. EPC light on my dashboard 2001 vw polo. It has something to do with the engine management, retarding the power of the engine.

Common OBD-II Problems

OBD-II has now been in our faces for a "Quarter Century" and even though it works fairly efficiently to control the hydro-carbon emissions in post '96 vehicles to some degree, it isn't as effective as some people would've liked, in terms of its diagnostic accuracy or as transparent and simplistic in its use to aid the layman.  On the flip side, many people with several mechanics among them completely abhors OBD-II and sees it more as a hindrance that a help and even add that they prefer cars not to have OBD-II. Since its inception, OBD-II has stymied mechanics globally, especially when the OBD-II system shuts down the engine and turns on the  EPC Light or Check Engine Light. And today, some 25 years later most car owners and mechanics still suffer fits effects yet endure the wrath of OBD-II. However, regardless of what we as lay people say, OBD-II is here to stay and we cannot wish it or will it away. 

Genuine Volkswagen / Audi Harness Mfg Part #: 1KD971658

Personally I think OBD-II is a great in all aspects and incarnations however it has its drawbacks. OBD-II  does place car owners at a huge disadvantage and at risk when it fails. Purely because the problems are not evident but rather masked by the mysteries of electronics technology. This very often leaves them stranded and in a dangerous situations when stuck in the middle of nowhere. With the result that even the DIY car owners cannot do any repair work themselves, but have to resort to phoning  a salvage company to come  load their vehicle onto  a rollback.  Unless of course they have previously invested in a OBD-II scanner  and is able to check for DTC error codes.  But as the saying goes, "most people only lock the stable after the horse has bolted". 

Another drawback of OBD-II is that since car owners in general do not own diagnostic scanners; so they have to rely on some mechanic workshop or mechanical to tell them what problems they've encountered with their vehicle but only once its repaired. Considering most mechanics / repair shops repair OBD-II errors by substituting parts until the cause of the problem is  solved. Merely because they don't even understand the workings of OBD-II well enough to pinpoint problems with any great success. For most of us, this type of hit-&-miss approach comes as an un-bugeted expense, which most car owners can ill-afford especially after having to pay the exorbitant rollback cost.

I believe there are thousands more vehicle owners today, interested in their own vehicle's maintenance and there are even more inclined towards DIY repairs than ever before because of ODB-II. Their motivating factor being the high cost of automotive repairs vs the low cost of ODB-II diagnostic scanners. Albeit that the lower cost scanners bordering on cheap doesn't do such a fantastic diagnostic scan as their more expensive counter parts. 

NEW GENERATION CARS

Hopefully, the next generation of automobiles will be released with onboard diagnostic scanners incorporated directly into the vehicle's infotainment system. Seeing that these fancy units are comprised of  several discrete devices built into the same platform.  It's quite common for the average touch screen infotainment systems to have features ranging from  Built-in Bluetooth to Built-in WIFI which supports WiFi hot-spot broadcasting. Integrated phone connectivity for calls. Some even have rear view camera support. 

Others have fully fledged full-format 1080P video decoding, and USB functionality with multi-format audio and multi-band radio, coupled to dedicated dual voice-coil subwoofer and surround sound speakers. Not to mention Internet APP download capability.  Some include mirror and link for both Android and IOS Phones and a Global Positioning System (GPS) for navigation. All thanks to the magic of powerful multi-core processors and microprocessor embedded systems. 

I'd say adding an OBD-II scanner in place of one of these gadgets would be more beneficial 

So, throwing in a pretty decent quality OBD-II scanner into such a menagerie of tech wouldn't be such a biggie for car manufacturers and the cost wouldn't be prohibitively expensive either.  But since we not at that point in automotive evolution as yet, most DIY car owners have to rely on the handheld / smartphone diagnostics to scan their cars. 

Be that as it may. Very fortunately there are some common fault lists that would prevent you from having to go buy an expensive OBD-II scanner or go through the agony and trauma of having your car fixed by trial and error. Sharing  common automotive problems for the benefit of other, who are bound to experience the exact same problems in the very near future is a godsend.  Same model cars tend to have the same problems as others but invariable and inevitably those components will fail because obsolescence was part of its initial design. The same components used different model cars tend to fail in the same way and cause the same problems.

We've found that the most common OBD-II problems are associated with misfiring engine cylinders, problematic exhaust Gate Reticulation system (EGR), Oxygen Sensor (O2), Electrical Harnesses and fault Catalytic Converters. Many car owners are decating their diesel models, claiming better performance. But since OBD-II was explicitly introduced to control and reduce carbon emissions, removing it is not such a great idea. 

VW / Audi Harness ES#: ES2993475  

 

COMMON FAULTS 

Erratically idling, or misfiring of bucking or  car goes into limp mode or starts and cuts out all result any one or more of the following error codes:-

P0105 - Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure Voltage supply

P0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure out of range 

P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure Low Input

P0108 - Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure High Input

P0234 - Turbocharger Overboost Condition Control limit exceeded

P0235 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) Control circuit  limit not reached

P0236 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) circuit  out of range

P0237 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) circuit  Low Input

P0238 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) circuit  High Input

P0243 - Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid (A) Open/Short Circuit to Ground

P0245 - Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid (A) Low Input/Short to ground

P0246 - Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid (A) High Input/Short to B+

P1154 - Manifold Switch Over Malfunction

P1155 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Short to B+

P1156 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Open/Short to Ground

P1157 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Power Supply Malfunction

P1158 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit  out of range

P1400 - EGR Valve Circuit  Electrical Malfunction

P1401 - EGR Valve Circuit  Short to Ground

P1402 - EGR Valve Circuit  Short to B+

P1403 - EGR Flow Deviation

P1404 - EGR Flow Basic Setting not carried out

P1406 - EGR Temperature Sensor Performance range

P1407 - EGR Temperature Sensor Signal too Low

P1408 - EGR Temperature Sensor Signal too High

P1511 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve - Electrical circuit malfunction

P1512 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve Short circuit to B+

P1513 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve2 Short circuit to B+

P1514 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve2 Short circuit to ground

P1515 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve Short circuit to ground

P1516 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve - Open circuit 

P1520 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve2 - Open circuit 

P1521 - Intake Manifold Changeover Valve2 electrical circuit malfunction

P1553 - Barometric/manifold pressure signal ratio out of range

Polo Highline 1.9 TDI (9N) 2005

16621 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too Low

P0237 - 000 - -

Audi A5 (8T0) 2012 

4166 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31)

P0238 00 [039] - Signal too High

Audi TT 1.8L R4/5VT 

16622 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High

0238 - 35-00 - 

000568 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High

P0238 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - MIL ON

Passat 2.0T R4/4V TFSI 2006 

000568 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High

P0238 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - MIL ON

VW Touran 1.9 TDI

P0236 - Manifold Pressure/Boost Sensor (G31) - Range/Performance Problem/Implausible Signal

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)(K83) active.

VW Golf 7 1.6TDI 

16622 (P0238 ) - Manifold Pressure/Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High

16618 (P0234) - Boost Pressure Regulation: Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition)

Passat 2.0T R4/4V TFSI 2006 

004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve

P1297 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded

This MAP Manifold Pressure Sensor aka Boost Sensor aka Thrust sensor  aka G31 is just a  thermistor. Essentially a resistor of a special kind, with the ability to change its resistance  subject to its surrounding temperature, hence the term thermistor is just a  word combination of "thermal" and "resistor".  However G31 sensor may not be fault but rather the wiring harness. Due to the constant engine heat, the harness wiring gets hard and becomes brittle resulting in poor contact, short and open circuits. 

FYI - Thermistors essentially come in two varieties, viz NTC (negative temperature coefficient) and a PTC (positive temperature coefficient). You can quite simply use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance of the thermistor. Then by bringing a hot soldering iron  tip close to the thermistor, its resistance would change in response to the soldering iron's radiated heat. When the resistance increases its a PTC and an NTC when the resistance decreases.  Much like discrete component resistors that are colour coded, thermistors leads are also colour coded which identifies the temperature range they operate at.

CATALYTIC CONVERTER

Catalytic Converter have become a hot topic of late. Thieves are stealing Catalytic converters from parked cars at night. However the Polo Highline 1.9 TDI is known to be troublesome. The main reason for  this being, use of poor quality diesel (500ppm as opposed to 50ppm or even 5ppm) and irregular oil changes  which caused soot build-up to block the performance of the catalytic converter, which in turn may lead to turbo failure.  So its fair to say that it's  not uncommon to remove/replace blocked catalytic converters  to prolong the life of the turbo itself.

However if it's not the Catalytic converter itself causing the above error,  it very possibly not the sensor either even though the diagnostic software may indicate that.  I'd say rather check, repair or replace the wiring harness to the Boost Pressure Sensor (G31) and also check wiring to the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (G42).  See my previous blog post https://volkswagen-polo-highline.blogspot.com/2015/03/wiring-harness-issues.html 

The diagnostic scanners may also thow the following errors in conjunction with the error above,  which could be caused by a leak in Air Intake and or Exhaust

16490 - Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor (G71) / (F96): Implausible Signal

P0106 - 35-00 - -

18000 - Altitude Sensor / Boost Pressure Sensor: Implausible Correlation

P1592 - 000 - -

Diesel engines are quite different from petrol engines in the sense that  the diesel engine is not variable in speed or power by controlling the air entering the engine as we do with the  throttle body in petrol styled engines. Feedback from Catalytic converter in petrol engines are also used to adjust the short term and long term fuel trim. Implying that petrol cars also have turbo boost errors due to the cat and intake and exhaust sensors.

16485 / P0101 Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) (G70) = Circuit Signal Implausible (out of range)

16497 / P0113 Intake Air Temperature  Sensor-1 (G42) = Signal too High

16515 / P0131 O2 (Lambda) sensor low voltage =  Bank-1 Low Voltage

16584 / P0200 Injector circuit =   Injector Circuit electrical fault

16620 / P0236 Turbo / Manifold Pressure Boost Sensor (G31) = Signal Implausible (out of range)

16622 / P0238 Turbo / Manifold Pressure Boost Sensor (G31) = Signal too High

16683 / P0299 Turbo Boost Pressure Reg = Control Range not reached (underboost) /mechanical fault

16785 / P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) = Insufficient Flow (blocked)

17055 / P0671  Glow Plug/Heater Cylinder 1 (Q10)  electrical fault, open circuit 

17958 / P1550 code = Charge Pressure Control Deviation

Check for air leaks on both intake or exhaust side 

Turbocharger - check for whining engine and exhaust smoke

Charge Air Pressure Sensor faulty  - check connection to one of the the intercooler pipes

Wastegate Regulator N75 Valve  faulty  - Check one of the 3 thin hoses for leaks

18534 / P2102 Throttle  Actuator Control Motor = Signal too Low, check voltage to accelerator pedal 

18675 / P2243 O2  Sensor Reference Voltage Bank 1, open circuit 

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VW ELECTRONIC POWER

EPC LIGHT EXPLAINED

As I mentioned before in my older blogs, the new generation of VW cars are designed to turn on an EPC Light (not check engine light) so that only the  Volkswagen dealership service technician or technicians are supposed to do any an all servicing and repairs.  The VW workshop manuals specifically discourages anyone other than a qualified or trained mechanics / auto-electrician and automotive technician to perform servicing, especially changing codes and performing readiness test.  This is because  incorrectly set readiness and adaptation settings can completely disable your car and virtually render it useless. To repair it would then cost a small fortune.

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

An earlier blog, covers some late model VAG cars with fuel injection and electronically controlled throttle body instead of the traditional accelerator cable controlling the throttle valve. It is called Drive-by-wire or DBW for short. When the Engine Control Unit -ECU, which invariable is a computer in its own right detects a fault  Diagnostic Trouble Code - DTC  in the Drive-by-wire system, it registers a fault Diagnostic Trouble Code - DTC in its non volatile memory and turns on the EPC light, disables the accelerator and throttle body, limit the engine to a maximum of 1500 rpm -"Limp Mode".  This would be sufficient power to "Limp Mode" the car to a service centre without causing further damage to the car or unduly polluting the air should the fault cause it to smoke. This is a safety precaution and can be equated with, what would happen if  an accelerator cable got stuck in the downward position. Disaster could follow. The Engine Control Unit -ECU collects faults Diagnostic Trouble Code - DTC from all senders and stores an internal list, which is only visible with a diagnostic tester. Diagnostic Trouble Code - DTC can range from excessive emissions to - intermittent air bag connections, from brake light failure to - depleted brake pads, from interior ultrasonic failure to - immobilizer problems to even disconnecting the battery. Each of these faults generates codes, some of which can be viewed in future blogs.

Should the Volkswagen Engine Control Unit -ECU  considered a Diagnostic Trouble Code - DTC to be so serious that it could possibly do harm to the engine or the environment, it will inhibit the throttle function and limit the engine revs or even disable starting or idling completely.  Unfortunately the only way to repair such problems, is to connect the  Volkswagen Golf,  Jetta, VW Polo, or Volkswagen Beetle, to a dignostic tester through its CAN-Bus / OBD2 / OBDII port and view  Diagnostic Trouble Code - DTC  if any and  Diagnostic Trouble Codes, clear them from memory and perform corrective procedures.  Below is an overview of the Electronic Power Control Circuit - EPC and how the Drive-by-wire system operates.

The basic operation of  the Electronic Power Control (EPC) Schematic showing inputs
from drive-train sensors and output signals to drive-train actuators.

Other INput senders could result in similar problems. For example - the Oxygen Sensor could detect that the exhaust fumes carbon mixture exceeds the prescribed level which is toxic to  the atmosphere and the environment. It could disable driving of the vehicle by enabling the Electronic Power Control Circuit - (EPC), turning on the EPC warning light or even disable starting not allowing the car to idle. This could be due to a dead plug causing the idling to be erratic and not burning up all the fuel. This un-burnt fuel will invariably change the exhaust fumes composition which triggered the Catalytic Converter and Oxygen Sensor in the first place.

Like wise, when the brake light bulbs blow or the fuse to the brake circuit blows, an INput signal from the brake light sender could also activate the Electronic Power Control Circuit - (EPC), turning on the EPC warning light causing the car to go into "Limp Mode" because driving a car on a public road without brake lights is an accident just waiting to happen. In fact the Engine Control Unit (ECU) looks upon this car as non-roadworthy as a safety procedure. In a previous blog I described an Electronic Power Control Circuit - (EPC), which switches on the EPC light problem caused by an INput  signal from one of the knock sensors with the same results as above. Other senders INputs that can cause similar problems are:-

The Engine Speed Sender G28 situated at the flywheel.
The Hall Sender G40 situated at camshaft pulley
The Hot Air Mass Meter G70 and intake Air Temperature sender G42 situated near intake manifold.
The Lambda probe G130 situated upstream of catalytic converter
The Lambda probe G39  before catalyst converter
The Knock sensor I - G61 below intake manifold
The Knock sensor II - G66 below intake manifold
The Accelerator Position Senders G79 and G185 embedded in accelerator pedal (EPC Problem)
The Clutch pedal switch F36 situated in the drivers foot well.
The Brake light switch F and brake light switch F47 situated in the drivers foot well.
The Throttle control valve / motor drive assembly  J338 
The Angle Senders  G187 and G188 situated inside throttle body.
The Fuel Pressure Sender -G247

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