DRIVE BY WIRE

VW - DRIVE BY WIRE (Drive-by-Wire)

If you arrived on the VW Polo website because you searched for  Drive by Wire (DBW), EPC, or EPC light or engine won't rev, Steer-by-Wire, or limp mode,  then you have certainly arrived at the right place. There are several definitions for ECP, the first of which will be explained, is Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC).

EPC stands for Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC) and all Audi, Volkswagen,  Skoda and SEAT parts are listed in ETKA V7.2 EPC (Electronic Parts Catalogue). This catalogue is purchasable online and downloadable but the file is huge. Companies like Mercedes Benz, Toyota,  Enigma, Attrakt among many, many others host computer based electronic catalogs of the individual auto parts and accessories that make up their engines, cars, tractors, specialized machinery and farming equipment etc. Restated, an EPC is a catalogue in electronic format much like CVS data or a database file or similar, that can be downloaded or is accessible online.

Then there is the second type of EPC - Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) software. MultiCat and Msys.EPC are companies that specialize in the software that can display an exploded view of an assembled device. For example, the exploded view of an engine, or gearbox, or cylinder head, showing the individual bolts and nuts, flanges, hoses and brackets, etc. and their component part numbers.

Thirdly, there is also the Electronics Parts Catalog (EPC) which is an electronic list or database of semiconductor components, from diodes to transistors to integrated circuits to thyristors, etc... This EPC is often called and equivalents book or catalog and hosts the specifications of semiconductors from several manufacturers. A typical EPC is the RS Electronic Components and Tools Database. This EPC doubles up as the third type of EPC which is the Electronic Product Code. Component Product Codes look like,  1N4148 or BC337, MCP2515, TYN812RG, etc... for electronic components.

However, there are many more EPC definitions, some of them can be found at the end of this blog. I could explain all of them individually but none has any relevance to the subject at hand, viz EPC - Drive by Wire. Drive-by-Wire also know as  DbW, Steer-by-Wire "x-by-wire" or simply "by-wire".

DRIVE BY WIRE

And finally, the Electronic Power Control (EPC) that freaks out almost each and every VW 1.6 Polo, Audi TT, Skoda, SEAT and  Golf TDI, owner. Most vehicles with Drive by Wire [Drive-by-Wire (throttle control)] usually have a Electronic Power Control (EPC) indicator lights on its dashboard which lights up when  there's a problem with the Drive-by-Wire system. This would involve the two accelerator pedal sensors G79 and G185 and in some cases the two sensors G187, G188 inside throttle control valve body - control actuator. [As discussed in my previous blogs] When the engine idles, neither the Throttle Valve Angle Sensor nor the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor are monitored for faults by the ECU, as such, the engine does not respond to accelerator input but will limit engine to 1200 RPM.

The  basic components that constitute the Electronic Power Control (EPC) circuit. 

There is no throttle cable involved, because its an electronic throttle control.

The Electronic Power Control (EPC) circuitry consists of EPC light, Accelerator Pedal, Throttle Control Valve,  DBW  (no throttle cable,) Injectors and the Engine Control Unit (ECU). Have a look at the diagram above. The inputs to the ECU is marked green and the outputs from the ECU is marked blue.  Check that the brake light bulbs are OK, if not check the brake fuses. There are other inputs to the ECU from numerous other sensors or units for example the Automatic Gearbox Control unit, Cruise control unit, Air conditioning unit, Lambda Regulation unit, Knock Sensor units, Alternator, Engine Speed Sensor unit, ABS and the  Power-assisted steering unit to mention but  a few. 

The CAN-Bus bidirectional connection is marked in orange. Some of the other inputs like Knock sensors and Lambda regulator and Engine Speed Sensor unit can also cause the EPC light to come on. If the Engine Speed Sensor unit is responsible, it will reset itself after a while and if the Lambda regulation is faulty the vehicle will smoke and turn on both MIL and EPC lights, but if the Drive-by-Wire - DBW (not drive by cable) system is faulty then only the EPC light will be on.

Both the accelerator sensors and the throttle valve sensors work on the same principle since all 4 of them are potentiometers. The input voltage is 5 Volts and the increments are in millivolts implying that there is an  acceleration range of between 0 and 5000.  Throttle valve angle  sensor 1 and Throttle valve angle sensor 2, Accelerator position sensor 1 and Accelerator position sensor 2 sliders makes contact with the resistive track and outputs the appropriate voltage level to the ECU. These resistive tracks are prone to go faulty since they are gold plated contacts running on gold plated copper tracks etched on a PCB. Over time the contacts wears right through the gold and copper plating, only making contact with the bakelite or fibreglass substrate. This type of potentiometers are less reliable than ceramic thick-film potentiometers.

When the EPC warning light goes on and your acceleration goes limp and the engine won't rev-up there is an easy cure but there may be exceptions. Get the car home even if it means driving really slowly in "Limp Mode". Once home, disconnect the battery for about 15 minutes or so, but not more than 20 minutes then reconnect. NB! do not disconnect the Live terminal, disconnect the Earth terminal. If the battery is disconnected for more than 20 mins you will lose your radio settings since the radio also participates in volatile and non-volatile memory of  the CAN-Bus. 

Reconnect the battery but make certain that the ignition is off. Once this is done, turn on the ignition so that the dashboard lights go on but do not start your car and DO NOT touch your accelerator pedal. After about 5 minutes the throttle body will aligns itself. After 10 minutes turn off the ignition, wait for 2 mins then start the car and let it idle for abut 2 minutes as well. By now, the EPC warning light should be off and the engine will rev as normal.You may have to to this twice. If this worked for you, please do give me some feedback with a comment.

VW Airbag diagnostics 

VW Instruments - Immobilizer

   

DON'T FORGET to VISIT

THE PREMIER 

SECURITY EXPO IN
SOUTH AFRICA

VW, SEAT SKODA and AUDI OWNERS  found the following sites interesting.  
expowp, photojani, controversy365, nerdytoys, lovelifelovehealth, sightsofcapetown, sowpbox, electroniques, blogspot-at, photo-magix, godssites, glycomix, arth-ritis, forex-bid, foodsofthecape, languagesbarrier, pimpyocar, e-gimos.

COME MORE EPC DEFINITIONS

EPC - Engineering, Procurement & Contracting, 

EPC - Engineering, Plant  Construction,

EPC - European Paralympic Committee,

EPC - Electronic Product Code, 

EPC - Event Promotional Council,

EPC - Energy Performance Certificate,

EPC - Engineering, Procurement and Construction, 

EPC - Event-driven Process Chain, 

EPC - Evolved Packet Core,

EPC - European Patent Convention,

EPC - Eastern Provincial Council, 

EPC - Electronic Poetry Center, 

EPC - European Policy Centre,

EPC - European Political Community, 

EPC - European Political Cooperation, 

EPC - Evangelical Presbyterian Church 

EPC - Export Promotion Council, 

EPC - Electricity Plant Controller, 

EPC - ElectroPlating Cathode,

EPC - European Payments Council,

EPC - Electronic Packet Collision,

EPC - Electrical Professionals Council,

Etc...,

What your Electronic Power Control (EPC) Warning Light really means

Computers are ubiquitous or rather microcomputers, microprocessors and their peripheral systems and chipsets are.  As such, they can be found in most electronic devices, ranging from laptops to printers, routers, radios, walkie-talkies, cell-phones and toys to mention but a few. In fact, microprocessors are so common place that they've taken over most hand held and personal electronic devices so-much-so that they are even embedded in our entertainment equipment, our cars, motorcycles, aeroplanes, ships and trains. It can thus be said that electronics in all its technological forms, have completely changed how we live  our lives. These systems along with its sensors, sendors and actuators are referred to as On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) and since it's in its second revision, known as OBD-II or just OBDII.

Furthermore  these On-board diagnostic (OBDII) digital computers interfaced with its dependency modules, electro-mechanical systems and sensors built into our cars have collectively taken-over and superseded most mechanical linkage functions, that were previously and traditionally used for acceleration, steering control and parking brake among several other.  So, welcome to the world of  drive-by-wire, (electronic throttle control) steer-by-wire, shift-by-wire, brake-by-wire and fly-by-wire which is currently widely used in aviation. 

What your Electronic Power Control (EPC) Warning Light really says!

Your car's EPC light essentially indicates that there is an issue with the  torque system of your vehicle. This torque system is your car's acceleration and braking system that now operates via drive-by-wire, shift-by-wire and brake-by-wire. In a nutshell, it's a computer chip supervised electronic system (ECU) that replaced the cable linkage previously situated between the carburetor and the accelerator pedal with an electrical/electronic interface. 

This amber EPC light is an advisory light rather than a warning light -since warning lights are red in colour- is illuminated when the ECU detects a glitch in the torque system. When a glitch is detected, in most cases the ECU will enable 'limp home mode'. Limp mode is a fail-safe software-embedded, security and safety feature that  inhibits the system, activates a  rev limiter, shuts off boost partially or completely, resulting in a maximum 2500 RPM.  

Thereby leaving only sufficient power to safely drive the car home in some cases. In other cases it could prevent the car from even starting.  Limp mode also acts as a safe-guard against further engine / transmission trouble or possible runaway.  Switching off the engine and disconnecting the battery may in some cases momentarily cure limp mode, but then again it may not due to the ECU's  non-volatile memory. However as an  advisory light, it begs for an OBD-II diagnostic scan, so that the Trouble Code (DTC) error may be diagnosed and repaired. This is best done sooner rather than later, as Limp mode sometimes manages to cures itself, yet bound to repeat itself continually until repaired. The ECU has a counter / timer monitoring how many times the same DTC was detected since the last start-up. If just a few times (considered negligible / mistakenly triggered) the counter resets itself and starts to recount from when it happens again.

Having said that, EPC lights and drive-by-wire systems aren't exclusive to "VAG cars" like most mechanics would have you to believe. The EPC light is a mandatory part  of the OBD-II system hence fitted as standard equipment on "all post '96 cars". OBD regulations are written into Government legislation globally so that in time, the Department of Transport (DoT) may require all vehicles to regularly go for mandatory carbon emission tests in order the achieve road roadworthiness. They will access your cars under dash 16 pin obd connector to check its "Readiness Status". Readiness is an 2 x 4 digit binary number (hexadecimal) that look something like 1011 0110 or 1110 0101 or 0000 0000 or any combination of zeros and ones which is subject to the workings of equipment fitted in your vehicle.

Anyway, if you don't know, VAG stands for Volkswagen AG. The AG is an abbreviation for Aktiengesellschaft - implying incorporated. Aktiengesellschaft is the German term for a Public Limited Company (PLC). Thus the  VAG group is comprised of ten car brands  viz, Volkswagen, VW Commercial vehicles, Volkswagen Marine, Audi, SEAT, CUPRA, ŠKODA, Lamborghini, Porsche, Bentley and Ducati, spanning across five European countries.  In a nutshell most if not all these vehicles have a EPC light and torque control circuit operated via drive-by-wire as standard equipment. But as mentioned previously, an EPC lights with drive-by-wire and brake-by-wire is not exclusive to VAG cars.  

This torque circuit (throttle-by-wire) is a collection of interconnected electronic components amongst which are the car's battery, ignition switch, throttle body position sensor / potentiometer and throttle body actuator / stepper motor. The ECU itself, the braking system sensors and the wiring harnesses that supplies voltage / earth and feedback to and from the accelerator position sensor/ potentiometer and the throttle body motor, the cruise control switch, the instrument cluster and even one of the brake globes itself.

Possible problems

So by implication, with so many points of failure, so much can go wrong, For example, a loose battery terminal could cause the accelerator potentiometer input voltage to momentarily disappear for a fraction of a second, thus detected by the ECU which  would then trigger limp mode. It could also be caused by a speck of dust has settled on the potentiometer slider that creates a brief intermittent contact. The ECU will however detect this and implement limp mode. 

Then there is the dozens of wiring harnesses with their hundreds of connections. Several of them instrumental in the automotive torque circuit. Since electronics has taken over our cars, some having more than 3 dozen individual harnesses, collectively  comprising of more than 3000 wires and a third as many connectors. It gives you an idea of multitude of electrical problems that can occur.

Male and female wiring harness connectors used in the automotive industry are fairly reliable however due to the under-bonnet conditions like extreme engine heat and morning freezing temperatures, humidity, steam, condensation, oil splatter, dust and vibration, can collectively give rise to corrosion inside wired plugs and sockets. Corrosion normally causes high resistive electrical conditions which upsets the functionality of the circuit concerned.  

This could cause a myriad of problems in a myriad of circuits among which could be the MAF circuit, causing poor driveability and sudden jerking motions during acceleration flanked by untimed detonations.  It could be the MAP circuit causing poor fuel economy and difficult starting and rough idling. Catalytic converter wiring would cause dark exhaust smoke that  smell like rotten eggs due to the excess sulphur and the engine performance will be sluggish..... etc. Wait for the follow-up!

EPC

ELECTRONIC POWER CONTROL

EPC LIGHT

The EPC fault indicator lamp is very well known among the VAG community, and for those not yet familiar with the EPC light;   it's an  amber symbol in the instrument panel displaying the uppercase letters EPC, which is the abbreviation for Electronic Power Control. This EPC lamp is often referred to by automotive technicians as K132.  EPC is synonymous to Drive-by-Wire which means that the vehicle concerned is fitted with an electrically controlled throttle valve. Restated, the old mechanical throttle cable has now been replaced by an electronic throttle control system. Vag vehicles fitted with  Motronic Engine Management version 5.9 ECUs  and older, still use a cable operated throttle interfaced with  a Throttle Control Module (TCM) and appear to be less susceptible to EPC related problems but not immune. Whereas vag vehicles fitted with Motronic Engine Management version 7.5 coupled to a Drive-by-Wire system appear to be somewhat more susceptible to EPC related problems. This is because ECUs with MEM 7.5  was specifically designed to handle the new torque-oriented  EPC function.   

However, the  bright orange EPC fault indicator light has absolutely no effect on the functionality of the Throttle Control System as a whole. When the ignition is initially turned on, it is perfectly normal for the EPC light to come on briefly,  then switch off again, if and only if it detects no Throttle Control System DTCs in memory and also determines that the TCS is working OK.  This ECU self diagnostic test takes all of 3 seconds. But, should a problem exist, the EPC light will remain on, since it needs to inform you of a DTC stored in memory  and that any additional TCS faults won't make it glow any brighter. (NB! There is no other visual way of showing you that there are several EPC errors other than with a scan tool). 

DRIVE-BY-WIRE

The Drive-by-Wire system consists of  an accelerator pedal module, that houses  two accelerator position senders, a throttle control module that also housing two position sensors,  a throttle
valve drive servo motor, an EPC light,  an ECU and of course the wiring to connect them together. 

THROTTLE CONTROL

The two accelerator position senders are a fixed part of the accelerator pedal and in reality are potentiometers. They get their supply voltage from the ECU that is capable of component diagnostics and constantly monitors its inputs. When the ECU detects that one potentiometer signal failed, it sends a DTC to the memory and turns on the EPC light then switches to the second potentiometer. It uses the accelerator pedal input voltage and translates its position  into an output voltage that drives the throttle body servo motor that controls the butterfly valve. The two throttle two position sensors, sends feedback to the ECU. Once again theses sensors are potentiometers, also monitored by the ECU and as above, if one potentiometer fails it sends a DTC to memory, turns on the EPC light then switches to the other potentiometer, but not necessarily in that order.

WIRING

The CAN Bus wire pair for the Powertrain  are Orange/Black and Orange/ Brown but there is also a supply wire (Red) and an earth (Black) wire, to each of the Drive-by-Wire components. Each of these wires have a plug and each of these plugs have at least four wires. Do the math and you could have 8 plugs - 32 male contacts pluging into 32 female contacts. The accelerator pedal potentiometers fault finding procedure.  Any of these contacts could be intermittent, all of which will cause the  EPC warning light to light up and if any of the Drive-by-Wire components fail will do the same. Considering cars drive on bumpy roads, withstand extremes engine heat and freezing temperatures at night besides rainwater that could find its way into the wiring harness. All of which could contribute to intermittent electrical connections.

REPAIRING EPC FAULTS

Repairing EPC faults are easy but needs to be systematic, because everything that can cause the problem needs to be thoroughly investigates and exonerated before the next item is suspect. Before any major or expensive components are replaced, check the wiring. Check the wiring, Check the Wiring.  Suspect the potentiometers first since they suffer from wear and tear. 

POTENTIOMETERS

A potentiometer is essentially a potential divider. Restated, its a three legged device, with a fixed high potential (voltage) and a fixed low potential (voltage)  at two of its legs. The third leg outputs a variable potential (voltage) less than the higher potential and more than the lower potential.  A potentiometer is normally made of bakelite or fibreglass with a carbon track attached to it.  The variable output makes contact with slider that runs on this carbon track. This sider/carbon contact isn't very good because its a sprung loader pressure contact. Besides when the carbon track wears through which is just a matter of time because it is constantly at work when you accelerate. It is going to give you the EPC fault guaranteed.

Feel free to upload your VW, SKODA, SEAT & AUDI scans.

LIMP MODE Q&A

LIMP HOME MODE

When I initially bought my VW Polo 2.0L she was a thrill to drive. Her speed was instant, cornering was really good and road holding never better. She was a joy to drive, very unlike my VW Golf II, but then I started getting car troubles,  which were many and varied. My first encounter with VW agents was a disaster. After they "repaired" my EPC fault they charged me a ridiculous sum of money, only to experience the same EPC problem the following day.  After speaking to several of their mechanics, who collectively were unable to fix my car, I came to realize  that I was either far more knowledgeable about automotive electronics than all of them put together, or they knew very little about electronics.  This just put me off the agents completely and when I took my Polo to independent mechanical workshops,  I found the same to be true. I still remember how lost I felt when my VW Polo went into limp mode the first time and the second and the third and the fourth. I felt lost, stuck on the freeway, late for meetings, frustrated and miserable because I couldn't repair her like I did the VW Golf II due to the fact that the Polo had OBD-II. I  thought my VW Polo to be unreliable, there was a point that I feared driver her at night, and later started to hate  even diving the Polo.  I was literally on the verge of setting her alight. But them I decided to buy a Ross Tech cable and downloaded their VCDS and my Polo is a joy to  drive once again. The rest of this blog is devoted to 10 vehicles owners who have experiences similar trouble with their VAG vehicles ranging from Drive by wire problems, to EPC trouble, to DTC trouble Codes to CAN-Bus-issues to name but a few. 

DRIVE BY WIRE
Steve sent this:- Had the problem of no power, tried the technique described in your blog (disconnect battery, wait, reconnect, turn ignition key, wait, turn off, turn engine on, wait, press throttle...) - and it worked beautifully. Many thanks for your help, very much appreciated - particularly as you've probably save me many pounds. 

QUESTION? - DRIVE BY WIRE
Anonymous sent this:- I have a '07 Polo 1.4 16v BUD. I don't have any lights on the dash, but the engine seems really weak through mid revs and is using a bit too much fuel. When I hook up my OBDII there are no faults recorded but when I view the throttle position in real time it doesn't seem to open in a linear manner. As I press the pedal on the road, the throttle valve seems to open slower than the position of  the pedal. eg; 50% pedal = 30% throttle position, 80% pedal = 35% throttle, 95% pedal = 40% throttle, 100% Pedal = 100% throttle. As you can see WOT does give WOT at the throttle body, but I don't generally drive with my foot planted on the floor. I am confused why it does this as you would expect the throttle body to open the same amount as the pedal, could it need alignment? I am loathed to take it to the VW dealer for fault diagno$i$ so if anyone has any ideas????  Thanks 

ANSWER!
On drive by wire model vehicles the throttle doesn't open like legacy cable throttles because its electronically controlled. 

DRIVE BY WIRE
Durell  Dunn  left this:- I am currently experiencing the same problem with my 2003 polo,1.4. The car goes into limp mode and on some occasions switches off in traffic, hectic ! I will use your method. Thank you for saving me from going to a VW dealership, all I can do at this stage is do and hope 

DRIVE BY WIRE
Loci sent this:- Hi. I have a problem with my Volkswagen Polo 1.4 Tdi. It seems to have a good start but after I drive for around 35 minutes it loses the power so I could not pass 2000 giro. Thank you for your suggestions.

QUESTION? - DRIVE BY WIRE 
Anonymous asked:- My car is a polo 1.4 2012 model. When I start the car the EPC light switch on then I put gear to move the car but it limbs then I switch it off then start it again then the EPC light does not switch on then off I go... What could be wrong? 

ANSWER!
The trouble can be one of many things, among which are your accelerator pedal, throttle body, knock sensor, Fuel pump pressure, even a loose fuel cap. You need to check through each systematically but for that you at least need a scan of your vehicle.

ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON
Lee Kyprian left this:- Everyone who has ever owned a car has experienced the confusion and even panic which can arrive when your check engine light suddenly comes on.

QUESTION? VW ELECTRONIC POWER CONTROL
Abror Isoqov sent this:- Hello. My car is VW Golf 1.6 16v and I have a problem with acceleration it has no enough power. It accelerates very slow and at 5th gear it can get max 130 km/h. At neutral position when engine gets about 5000 rpm the EPC light comes on. After restarting the engine it goes off. Tester didn't determine any trouble codes. What can cause for this problem. I went about 7-8 auto services but any of them could help. But I didn't go to VW dealer because it will be very expensive. last time they charged me $125 just for diagnostic.  Please help me with this issue.   

ANSWER!
What you explaining is limp mode and everything else seems very odd. Because by the time the EPC light does go on, a DTC is already set which any scan tool should be able to retrieve. Unless there is a problem with you DLC wiring, so that communication between vehicle and scan tool is erroneous.

VW ERROR CODES
Steve Cain sent this:- Hi, vw polo 1.4tdi 2003, AMF engine code,  problem is that when driving at any speed, car looses all power, engine stuck on 1200 rpm, throttle pedal no response, glow plug heating light flashes, switch off & switch back on straight away, car drives normally, no warning lights. Can you shed any light on this problem, (driving my wife mad). Thanks, Steve 

ANSWER!
I have covered this problem quite substantially in previous blogs and it in your interest to ready through them.

WON'T REV
Anonymous sent this:- My VW Jetta 2002 1.8t stopped me on the highway and it refused to rev and the mechanic says it is the brain box. I don't understand is he correct?

ANSWER!
Yes he is correct, problem lies in the ECM circuit but not necessarily the ECM itself. Dude you need to get your car scanned to get a better idea of  the actual problem.

CAN-BUS
Hi! I read your blogs and saw writings from you  about the CAN bus protocol. I have a problem to understand something on my cars OBD connector and the CAN bus line. Can you please help me maybe? Can we talk about? When I connect my 2 channel  DSO to the OBD connector pin 6 and pin 14 ( CAN-H and L ) and pin 5 (GND) on my VW Polo 1.4D year 2003 I got this signal what I posted right now. But, when I do the same think on my Renault Clio 1.5DCI year 2003 I got the right CAN signal.  

ANSWER! 
The likely hood is that your VW Polo isn't CAN compliant because its still a 2003 and used KWP-1281 and KWP-2000 protocols.  All VW's after 2008 is fully CAN compliant.

ENGINE TROUBLE, CAR PROBLEMS

VOLKSWAGEN, POLO CLASSIC CAR PROBLEMS

This blog is about my 2007 VW Polo Classic 2.0L Highline and other VAG cars in general. I have always been fond of good, solid, precision German engineering and I stand firm in my conviction that my VW Polo facelift  fits the bill. It therefore makes me wonder what happened in the manufacturing process? I often ask myself, - Was my VW Polo manufactured on a Monday that I'm having so much car problems and have to visit auto repair so often?

With the amount of issues I've had with my VW Polo, it rather looks like it was manufactured on a public holiday. It makes no sense why I am having so much car problems with it. I have had a Mercedez Benz which was German engineered, I loved it. I also had an Opel Kadett GSI 1.8 with digital dashboard that was German engineered, I simply adored it.  I had three company cars all of which were German engineered VW Passats.  I've also owned two VW Golfs, both of which were German engineered. The first VW Golf was a 1100 Golf-1, the second was a 1600 VW Golf -2 CLI with large bumpers. All of which hardly needed  automotive repair. My VW Polo 2.0L Highline 2007 model is however is very different from all the VAG cars I have owned before.  For example, the electromechanical system of the VW Polo ascribes to the OBD-II standard as well as CAN-Bus and its certainly not the easiest VAG car to repair.

This Volkswagen  Polo has an on-board computer which interfaces with an ABS module, the Interior Electronics Module, the Engine Control Module, the  Immobilizer Control Module among so many, many other electronic modules. Ostensibly it could be said that each of these modules, is a computer in its own right and they are all daisy-chained on the same OBD2 / OBD II or CAN Bus network.

Auto repair :-

The above 16 Pin DIN J1962 socket is provided  for a diagnostic tester to interface with these Electronic Modules, and is the only way to communicate with the car. This socket is situated in various places on different models and makes of cars. For instance BMW's normally have them under bonnet in the engine compartment. Most Volkswagen's have this socket under the dashboard on the driver's side. Some cars have it in the glove compartment, some have it in and around the ashtray.

My VW Polo had an idling problem, it was idling around 1200 rpm which progressively increased and hovered about 2000 rpm. There is no adjustment because there is no accelerator cable / throttle cable - it has Drive-by-wire (DMW) also known as Electronic Throttle Control (ETC). It  is the latest automobile technology that replaces the conventional cable linkage system between the vehicle's accelerator pedal and the engine throttle body.

Anyway, the high rev drove me crazy, especially when changing gears, the revs just wouldn't come down or took forever to do so. After two days, the EPC light came on and I took my car  off to the agents who reset the throttle-body valve. It was fine for just two days until the the rev counter started hunting between 800 rpm and 1200 rpm and the EPC light came on again. I took the car back to the agents, only to be told that the throttle body was effectively faulty. The cost was equivalent to one monthly car installment and that excluded their labour charge. So I decided to get a second opinion  before I forked out so much money, since I don't have a motor plan.

My new auto mechanic plugged in his Auto Boss Automotive Scanner and a few minutes later he said its the accelerator pedal that was faulty or rather the sensors that control acceleration which is part of the accelerator pedal. I asked about the possibility of the accelerator throttle-body being faulty and he says "no ways,  who even thought that? Your car revs higher than 1200 RPM". He the asked "does your EPC light come on?" and I said "yes". He then leaned into the car, grabbed hold the accelerator pedal with his hand and pulled the accelerator pedal upward. Immediately the idling seemed right, or at least to me it sounded right because it was idling at 950 RPM. By demonstrating this, even the data that was missing from one of the cells on the diagnostic tester's display came back and flashed the word NORMAL. He then released the pedal, the revs once again increased and the data cell  on the diagnostic tester's display went blank once again. After replacing the accelerator pedal with the Drive-by-Wire potentiometer (G79 & G185 sensors) attached, the idling was perfect and the EPC light stayed off.

Crayfish Curry Recipe