VAG FUEL TRIM PROBLEMS

SHORT TERM FUEL TRIM ISSUES

Modern day OBD-II systems can be described as high-end electronic systems that "sort of" took the automotive industry by surprise. As such , there are so many motor mechanics that have not made the transition from technologies prevalent in older model cars to the technologies pervasive in newer model cars yet, and understandably some never will.  Several of these motor mechanics don't even own a scan tool and even fewer of them are able to interpret the DTCs and the results of a diagnostic scan. With the  result, that many VW owners took it upon themselves to become ODB-II savvy and even do their own automobile repairs. Many of whom have invested in low end scan tools like VAG COM, Actron, Nextech Carmen,  Foxwell, OBD Scan, Altar, etc, and others invested in high end scan tools like G-Scan, VCDS, Xtool, Launch, AutoHex, Autel and Auto Boss etc. Even though the VW service departments are equipt with the best diagnostic scan tools they tend to lack the technical personnel with the requisite expertise to understand them and effectively repair clients VW, Audi, SEAT and SKODA cars. Electronics has taken over the modern day car and being knowledgeable about electronics is key however not every car owner  is therefore not equipt to to analyse the diagnostic printout. As an example, lets take a look at the infamous VAG fuel trim problems list below. All of them very loudly shouts that the stoichiometric  ratio is off. Generic Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) DTCs range from P0170- P0175 which are generic government required codes and Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) range from P1123-P1130, P1139-P1139,  P1151-P1152, P0166-P1167 and all are manufacturer specific.

SHORT TERM FUEL TRIM (STFT)

16554 - P0170 - Fuel Trim, Bank1 Malfunction
16555 - P0171 - Fuel Trim, Bank1 System too Lean
16556 - P0172 - Fuel Trim, Bank1 System too Rich
16557 - P0173 - Fuel Trim, Bank2 Malfunction
16558 - P0174 - Fuel Trim, Bank2 System too Lean
16559 - P0175 - Fuel Trim, Bank2 System too Rich

LONG TERM FUEL TRIM (LTFT)

17531 - P1123 - Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Air, Bank1 System too Rich
17532 - P1124 - Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Air, Bank1 System too Lean
17533 - P1125 - Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Air, Bank2 System too Rich
17534 - P1126 - Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Air, Bank2 System too Lean

17535 - P1127 - Long Term Fuel Trim mult, Bank1 System too Rich
17536 - P1128 - Long Term Fuel Trim mult, Bank1 System too Lean
17537 - P1129 - Long Term Fuel Trim mult, Bank2 System too Rich
17538 - P1130 - Long Term Fuel Trim mult, Bank2 System too Lean

17544 - P1136 - Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel, Bank1 System too Lean
17545 - P1137 - Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel, Bank2 System too Lean
17547 - P1139 - Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel, Bank2 System too Rich

17559 - P1151 - Bank1, Long Term Fuel Trim, Range 1 Leanness Lower Limit Exceeded
17560 - P1152 - Bank1, Long Term Fuel Trim, Range 2 Leanness Lower Limit Exceeded

17573 - P1165 - Bank1, Long Term Fuel Trim, Range 1 Rich Limit Exceeded
17574 - P1166 - Bank1, Long Term Fuel Trim, Range 2 Rich Limit Exceeded

17582 - P1174 - Fuel Trim, Bank 1 Different injection times

THE DEFINITION OF A BANK

Before we continue, it is important to get certain definitions right. In 8 cylinder (W8) engines and 12 cylinder (W12) engines, 4 or 6 cylinders are staggered  aligned at a V-angle,  72 degrees in relation each other, thereby making the engine more compact.  Each staggered row of either 4 or 6 cylider has its own head,  which is called a "Bank",  hence Bank 1 and Bank 2. On the other hand VR6 engines cylinders are also staggered but has a single cylinder head, however the three left most side cylinders (odd numbers) are called "Bank 1" (passenger side left-hand drive) and the right most cylinders (even numbers) are called Bank 2. Four cylinder engines normally have 4 in-line cylinders but here as well, the odd cylinders are called Bank 1 and the even cylinders Bank 2 as can be seen in the "Chassic type: Skoda Fabia  1,2l/4V" below. But this configuration does apply to all 4 and 5 cylinders engines because in some engines all cylinders are referred to as bank 1. Looking at  the above P-Codes  P0170-P0175 it can clearly be seen that  P0107 refers to Bank 1 and is common to both  P0171 and P0172. And likewise P01703 refers to Bank 2 and is common to both  P01704 and P0175. This information allows us to determine which cylinder is bank is running rich or lean. Intermittent signals may be due to continuous STFT occurrences or the bad electrical connections at the o2 sensors. However, every time the engine is started the OBD-II system  does a self test on the O2 sensors,  and should the Check engine light not remain on, then the O2 sensor is probably not the culprit.

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Chassis Type: 6N - VW Polo
16554 - Fuel Trim: Malfunction: Bank 1
P0170 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Chassis Type: 6N - VW Polo
16555 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1: System Too Lean
P0171 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Chassis Type: 6Y - Skoda Fabia
16555 - Fuel Trim: System Too Lean: Bank 1
P0171 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Chassis Type: 3B - VW Passat B5
16555 - Fuel Trim: System Too Lean: Bank 1
P0171 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Chassis Type: 9N - VW Polo
16555 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1
P0171 - 35-10 - System Too Lean - Intermittent

Chassis Type: Audi 3.2
16556 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1
P0172 - 35-10 - System Too Rich - Intermittent

Chassic type: Skoda Fabia  1,2l/4V 
16557 - Fuel Trim: Malfunction: Bank 2
P0173 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Chassis Type: 6N - VW Polo
16556 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1
P0172 - 35-10 - System Too Rich - Intermittent

Chassis Type: 3B - VW Passat B5
16556 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1
P0172 - 35-10 - System Too Rich - Intermittent

Chassis Type: 1J - VW G/J/B Mk4
16556 - Fuel Trim: System Too Rich: Bank 1
P0172 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Chassis Type: 9N - VW Polo
16556 - Fuel Trim: System Too Rich: Bank 1
P0172 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Chassis Type: 6N - VW Polo 
16556 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1
 P0172 - 35-10 - System Too Rich - Intermittent

Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4 B5
16557 - Fuel Trim; Bank 2: system too lean
P0174 - System too Lean

Chassis Type: 4F0 - Audi A6 3.2L
16559 - Fuel Trim; Bank 2
P0175 - 007 - System Too Rich

Chassis Type: 4A - Audi 100/A6 C4
16559 - Fuel Trim: System Too Rich: Bank 2
P0175 - 35-00 - -
16556 - Fuel Trim: System Too Rich: Bank 1
P0172 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16557 - Fuel Trim: Malfunction: Bank 2
P0173 - 35-00 - -
16554 - Fuel Trim: Malfunction: Bank 1
P0170 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4 B5
16554 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1: Malfunction
P0170 - 92-00 - Unknown Error Elaboration
16554 - Fuel Trim, Bank 1
P0173 - 92-00 - Unknown Error Elaboration
17658 - Fuel Level too Low

Audi A4 B5 96 a4 2.8l
16558 - P0174 - Fuel Trim, Bank 2
P0174  - System too Lean  -detecting lean fuel in exhaust
16555 -  Fuel Trim, Bank 1
P0171  - System too Lean -- detecting lean fuel in exhaust
16554   Malfunction
P0170 - 35-10 - - - reached maximum amount of fuel adjustment
16557 - Fuel Trim; Bank 2
P0173 - Malfunction

Fuel Trim: System Too Rich means / Rich Mixture implying too much fuel, not sufficient air
Fuel Trim: System Too Lean means / Lean Mixture, implying too much air, not sufficient fuel

Correct combustion relies on an air/fuel mixture of 14.7 to 1 ratio. Meaning 14.7 parts air to every 1 part of fuel, but if  the air ratio dips below 14.7 parts, then the mixture is called  "rich", whereas when the air exceeds 14.7 parts, then the mixture it is called  "lean".  To keep the engine running properly, the Engine Control Module measures the oxygen content in the exhaust emissions with the oxygen (O2) sensors in the exhaust system and makes adjustments to the mixture by injecting more or less fuel. The ECU is capable of keeping the STFT air/fuel mix within  specific parameters under normal conditions, and is based on input signals  from the Barometric Pressure Sensor and the Oxygen Sensor and will make minor adjustments to the air/fuel mixture. However when these adjustments it makes exceed a internally stored predetermined level, it sets  a fault code. When DTC P0171 and P0174 are triggered, the oxygen sensors are detecting too much oxygen in the exhaust fumes instructing the ECU to add more fuel in order to maintain a correct  air/fuel mixture.  But when DTC P0172 and P0173 are triggered the reverse is implemented. When DTC P0170 and P0173 are triggered the ECU is unable to compensate for the errors and uses an internally generate signal as compensation.  The main causes of STFT DTCs are due to leaking vacuum  hoses or a poorly functioning  Mass Air Flow Sensor sensing too little air or a faulty Barometric Pressure sensor or insufficient Fuel Pump pressure. Functionality of all these sensors can be checked by verifying there scan data before attempting to replace them. Cleaning the MAF wire with electro cleaner may help but take care not to damage it. Symptoms of STFT DTC may cause the EPC light to come on, make the car go into limp mode, stall, hesitate before acceleration, idle unevenly, backfire and refuse to idle. LTFT will be dealt with in future blog.

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

 VW BASHING

In my humble opinion I think VW manufactures pretty decent cars especially since  several of their models  won car of the year, a few years in a row. In fact VW Polo is probably the least troublesome VAG car and unfortunately the VW Jetta is the most troublesome. However not everyone is impressed with VW and from what goes around  at VW service departments about the flashing check engine light and especially coming from the mouths of VW owners,  borders on disgust and disappointment. Some of the things I've heard them say are:- Volkswagens Suck- and their service departments suck even more. They are an unorganized bunch of monkeys ... VW as a company - customer service is definitely not their priority. The check engine light is how they make money. The Worst customer service I have EVER received.  VW cars need no introduction but they do need constant attention. I will never buy Volkswagen again. As soon as my VW Golf gets out of the shop I'm trading it in for a Hyundai! Volkswagon cars are shit. I'm seriously interested in a "don't buy VW campaign". Never, ever buy a Volkswagen because VW service departments give Toyota cars as loaners. I really loved Jettas before, but now they SUCK. 

Volkswagen do not have an engine number, it an expire date. When I said I drive a VW, the mechanic said "what a shitty vehicle". I don't know how I will sell this disaster of a car! So don't sell it - just trade it in and get a non-VW. The time and effort to fight with corporate Volkswagen will get you no where. Their monkeys do what they are trained to do. Most VWs are lemons and the service people know it. VW quality and service is terrible - I will never buy another VW product.  VW service people are complete fools. Mostly my problems have been with idiot VW repair people, piss poor VW customer service, yep I agree a lot of service departments do suck. VW "wear and tear" - what a load of crap - more like cheaply made, more plastic than metal. The service people at VW are awful to deal with because they know VW sucks. My recent problems with bad service turned to NO service after calling VWoA. Customer service at VW sucks...they are programmed to say: "I'm sorry you are having issues with you vehicle" over and over. 

So, where does this leave avid VW fans like you and me? Do we jump on the VW bashing band wagon or do we take a stand? What I'd like to say in defence of VW, is that since the SAE mandated ODB-II for all makes of vehicles built after 1996  and even supplied a list of generic diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), meaning codes relevant to all cars. Its only a matter of time before all modern day cars start misbehaving and frustrate their owners like some VWs frustrate some of their owners. Little do we know what is happening in the diagnostic and repair, misbehaving and frustration ranks of Honda, Mercedes Benz, Kia, Hyundai,  Opel, Ford, GWM, Renault, Mazda, Alfa Romeo, Bentley, Chrysler, Fiat, Nissan, Jaguar, Lexus, Jeep, Chery, Daewoo, Toyota, Mitsubishi, Peugot, Volvo, Tata, Citroen, Dodge, Proton, Suzuki, Geely, BMW, Isuzu, Porche, etc. Considering most mechanical service departments may not have the necessary electronic savvy diagnostic skilled technical personal, automotive problems are going to be on the rise and more expensive to repair than ever before because unskilled and untrained mechanics are bound to take "like forever" to find the faults by guessing and by trial and error. I personally know of a case where a car  was in for service and repair for 52 days in a single year because the "automotive technicians" could not locate the source of the trouble.

COMMON VW CHECK ENGINE LIGHT PROBLEMS

A typical problem with Jetta / Jetta GLI / Jetta GLI 2.0L T / Jetta LX 5 cyl (2010-2011) / VW  Passat, Beetle, Golf, Tiguan, Routan, Eos, GTI and the VW  Taureg is the Check Engine Light (CEL) aka (MIL-Malfunction Indicator Lamp) that flashes or blinks continually or stays on especially in cold weather which is normally caused by a faulty Check Engine Light sensor. But when the Check Engine Light  (CEL) aka (MIL- Malfunction Indicator Lamp) comes on and the whole car shudders and shakes in an almost uncontrollable manner, not only does it sound expensive but also feels expensive. Check Engine Light  (CEL) aka (MIL-Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is also associated with failure to start, noisy  cranking, backfires, stalling and shaking, rev hesitation, visible black emissions and even engine fires. These issues often flags a P300 (random misfire) which motor mechanics, sorry "automotive technicians" readily pass over as a random glitch, returning the car to the owner saying "no problem found". A glitch that is bound to reoccur whist driving on the inside lane during peak hour traffic, which could consequently leave  the driver stranded on the express way.  This supposedly random error is actually a tell tail sign uttered by one of the ignition coils ( N70, N127, N291, N292) or injectors (N30-N34). A failing Ignition Coil  or a failing Injector gives exactly the same symptoms, upto and including turning on the EPC light (Electronic Power Control), the Check Engine Light (CEL) aka (MIL-Malfunction Indicator Lamp), limits the power and sends the car into limp mode and flags the relevant Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). Injector DTCs are from P0200 to P0212 and P0261 to P0296. Whereas Ingiton coils DTCs are normally from P02300 to P02335. Unlike older cars that have one coil that could go faulty, which would stop the car in its tracks. Modern day Volkswagen cars, have one ignition coil for each spark plug, implying 4 times the possibility of failure on a 4 cylinder and 6 times  the possibility of failure on a 6 cylinder engine and more ignition coils for the spark plugs per cylinder engines.  If 1 ignition coil or 1 injector fails, the other coils continue to keeps on firing their individual spark plugs. Along with the functioning injectors  keep the engine running but unbalanced due to one cylinder not lagging behind-- because of a dead coil or injector. This shake is so bad that it makes driving the car virtually impossible.  Since, it is very unlikely that 2 coils or 2 injectors would fail at exactly the very same instant, a quick and easy repair method is to keep a new spare coil and injector in the tools box which could be replaced by the process of elimination until the problem is solved.

The other common Check Engine Light  (CEL) aka ( (MIL-Malfunction Indicator Lamp) culprit is the mass air flow (MAF) sensor (G70) which works in conjunction with the Oxygen (O2) sensor to provide the correct volume of air for  stoichiometric calculations.  The MAF is situated between the throttle body and the air filter pan and sends direct predicted air flow data to the ECU, while the oxygen sensor sends feedback data to the ECU so that it can  make the minor corrections to the predicted air mass. Mass Air Flow Sensors (G70) are mechanical devices and therefore prone to failure since their measuring elements tend to get worn overtime, flagging  P1144, P1145 or P1146 DTCs. Mass Air Flow Sensors can possibly cause a wide range of engine problems much like those caused by the ignition coils and injectors. It is therefore essential to download the Diagnostic Trouble code (DTC) memory to determine whether the ignition coils, the injectors or the Mass Air Flow Sensors is causing the problem.

CEL, check engine light, check engine light is flashing, flashing check engine light, check engine light is on, check engine light blinking, check engine light blinking car shaking, blinking check engine light,

EPC Q & A

EPC Q & A

So many Audi, VW, SKODA and SEAT owner are having EPC light nightmares. Sending their vehicles for EPC repair which are often misdiagnosed, costly, ineffective and futile because most mechanical repair personal are not electronically trained hence have no idea of  digital logic and isolation procedures.  Modern cars are strewn with sensors and actuators, network buses, electronic control modules driven by software. To quote a line in Turks and Caicos which goes something like this "... everything changes. I used to be able to take a wrench and get under my car's bonnet and fix my car. Now you need a degree in electronics. Even easy things are difficult now." Replacing automotive components does not have to turn into a 'wild goose chase' where guess work is based on trial and error which now has become the order of the day.  That approach just scares everyone. Upload the diagnostic scan of your car now, so that I can analyse for you before you go ahead and buy expensive parts only to find out that the DTC was incorrectly interpreted.

Question?

I'm Lorraine from long beach. I don't know who you are but you are a God to me. I've been searching the web for months for specific and in-depth information on the "death light" (EPC) appearing on my '99 Volkswagen  Beetle. I have studied your entire blog and will now have a very interesting conversation with my German Car mechanic on how he can detect once and for all the problem. Already $1,000 in with no results. Thank you. I hope I don't have to sell the car just yet (to whom, I have no idea) throttle body replaced-twice so far-but hmm that Cam Bus section is interesting. My radio went into Safe Mode months ago and then spontaneously came back on (we do not have the code) so maybe we should check that path out as well. Again thank you.

Answer!

Hi Lorraine, since you don't say much about the specific problem that you are having other than the "death light" (EPC) appearing on my '99 Beetle, I really can't comment on it. However since it is EPC related, your problem has something to do with fuel delivery and engine torque electronics. Bear in mind that your fuel is under pressure from the tank to the injectors and that the ECU receives inputs from the various pressure sensors. If any of these pressures are below spec, it can trigger an EPC problem. For example, if your fuel cap does not seal properly the low fuel pressure sensor G410 will send a error signal to the ECU which can trigger an EPC fault. Likewise if the fuel regulator sensor cannot equilize the fuel pressure from the high-pressure fuel system it will trigger an EPC fault. Suppose If you were driving on an incline like an on-ramp to a bridge and didn't gear down sufficiently for you Beetle to swiftly climb with ease, the likely hood is that detonation would occur. If this happens, the knock sensors would inform the ECU which translate detonation as insufficient torque and trigger the EPC circuit - limp mode and EPC light. There are several other EPC possibilities but without a diagnostic scan it is difficult to pin point the problem.

Question?

Anonymous. I have a '07 Polo 1.4 16v BUD. I don't have any lights on the dash, but the engine seems really weak through mid revs and is using a bit too much fuel. When I hook up my OBDII there are no faults recorded but when i view the throttle position in real time it doesn't seem to open in a linear manner. As I press the pedal on the road, the throttle valve seems to open slower than the position of the pedal. eg; 50% pedal = 30% throttle position, 80% pedal = 35% throttle, 95% pedal = 40% throttle, 100% Pedal = 100% throttle. As you can see WOT does give WOT at the throttle body, but I don't generally drive with my foot planted on the floor. I am confused why it does this as you would expect the throttle body to open the same amount as the pedal, could it need alignment? I am loathed to take it to the VW dealer for fault diagno$i$ so if anyone has any ideas???? Thanks

Answer!

Hi there. Since you don't have  diagnostic scan its difficult to help you however, the mere fact that you don't have dash light makes it very obviously that you have electrical problems or wiring harness problems. And since your scan tool didn't find any DTCs, further proves that this is the case. The dashboard is normally directly connected to the OBD port in the driver's cockpit and since you have no dash lights you most likely have missing voltages on the OBD port which is most likely needed to perform a proper and correct diagnostic scan. Check your fuses on the terminal 30 line and the relay that supplies the terminal 15  supply line. Once you've exhausted everything else, as a last resort your dash control module could be faulty. Anyway, the acceleration peculiarity that you are describing probably has nothing to do with the dash electronics. Since you car has drive by wire, which is totally electronic (not throttle cable), torque is determined by the ECU which will open the throttle valve logarithmically based on its load and terrain, thus there is no physical correlation between the accelerator pedal and the throttle valve. So, no I don't think it needs alignment but seeing you have an OBD-II scanner, its quite simple for you to just redo the adaptation (described in a previous blog) and take consolation in the fact that you have eliminated it as a problem.

Question?

Hi I have a problem with EPC it came on since yesterday, am worried please help.

Answer!

My friend, you really not giving me much to work with here. But I suggest that read through my blogs pages related to EPC, torque, drive by wire, accelerator pedal sensors, knock sensors,  throttle adaptation, engine RPM sensor, etc. Perhaps if would shed some light on your EPC problem. Remember that EPC problems are related to what the car was doing at the time the light came on. for example, spirited driving / towing / start stop peak hour traffic, etc, Anyway the best way to find blog pages relating to your EPC problem , is to type your search word (EPC / drive by wire, etc) in the search box I provided in the top left hand corner on the first page of my site and click on the miniature magnifying glass to run the search. Happy searching.

Question?

Hi everyone, I would really appreciate some advice from you all. I have a 2002 (52) Ibiza 1.4 Sport (100bph), and have some issues with it. Background: Since day 1 it has occasionally thrown up an EPC warning light, followed by an engine electrics light. They would go away after a day and not return for several months. I had the logs read by a Seat dealer during a service and they said it had shown an intermittent Lambda filter error, and that it would cost £240+ to fit a new one. I passed. Over the last month, this has become an every day occurrence. The EPC light will come on seemingly as I just try to pull away from stationary. The car sometimes (half the time) notably stutters when this happens, then pulls away normally. If I restart the engine, most times the EPC light will go off, but the engine light will stay on. Then, more weirdly, the car has started occasionally stalling at random. No judder, no rough idling, I'll be slowing down towards a roundabout or into traffic, and whilst idling (coasting on the clutch) as I slow down, I'll notice the battery light come on, and the power drop out. Once, the battery light came on, but I was able to rev the engine up and it recovered - the battery light then went out. Mostly, I need to restart the engine though. I took it to a garage called Vee Ws for its annual service yesterday and asked them to look into it as well. They went with a cautious (on my finances) approach, and said they'd do the full service and that hopefully that on its own might rectify some of the issues. After the service, they said the logs showed some intermittent issues but nothing serious. They reset the onboard computer to its basic/default settings and said they hoped that would sort it. They also said they noticed the throttle body was pretty dirty (done 71,000 miles), and that if the service doesn't sort it, that they would try to clean that up and see if it did the job. Anyway, 10 minutes after I pulled away from the garage, the lights came back on and today the stalling re-occurred. I feel like this could turn into one of those 'wild goose chases' where its a case of trial and error, replacing different parts to see if it works. This scares me greatly! Has anyone experienced any similar symptoms, or would anyone recommend going to a proper Seat Dealership/Services team to take a look? I wonder if maybe they may be more likely to find the underlying fault? Having said that, I've always found Vee Ws in Bristolonia competent and most importantly, cost-effective. It may be possible to ask them to try and source used-parts while they try different 'fixes'.. Thanks for any advice, Jamie

Answer!

Hi Jamie,  the fact that your SEAT occasionally throws up an EPC warning light, as well as  the engine electrics light, says that your problem is more likely emission related, hence your intermittent Lambda error. Normally only torque and fuel related problems triggers the EPC light, meaning the engine light doesn't come on. Engine light only comes on with emission related issues.  Considering the age of your car it is possible that the Oxygen censor could be glazed over (end of life) or its wiring connector could be intermittent. The oxygen sensor is a feedback mechanism that instructs the ECU to increase or decrease the fuel supply hence shuddering. But this may not be definite. Without a diagnostic scan, I  am more inclined to say it could be your throttle body sensors not only because your service agent said it was dirty but because of the stalling and stutters on pull away. This seems like the throttle valve isn't providing an adequate air supply when its needed. However if they serviced your SEAT and did the adaptation as they said they did, then its unlikely the throttle body else adaptation would have failed, even though they said its dirty. So its more likely to be your accelerator pedal sensors. I mention this because  the car switches off when you decelerate, implying while your foot was on the accelerator it was OK but by taking your foot off the accelerator the condition changed and the ECU picked of this which could be due to 1 or both intermittent potentiometers. When you initially start the car  the ECU does a self-test by switching on all dashboard lights and if no problems are detected turns them all off. So when you start and the EPC light turns off, at that specific point in time there is no problem, but half way through acceleration while driving the problem is detected and the ECU switches he car off. Intermittent DTCs that do not reoccur during four driving cycles, are automatically deleted from the system which explains why the EPC light goes out after a day or so and doesn't show up months later. Lets have a diagnostic scan and I will have another crack at analyzing your problem.

EPC HELP

EPC HELP Q & A

VW Beetle EPC problems. Audi EPC light, Audi Q7, Audi TT, car trouble, DTC, drive by wire, DTC memory, EPC, EPC dashboard light, EPC faults, EPC problem, accelerator pedal adaptation, Audi EPC Light problem, Audi Q7, audi TT, car trouble, crankshaft position sensor, drive by wire, dtc, DTC memory, EPC, EPC dashboard light, EPC faults, EPC problem, high pressure fuel pump, Limp Mode, throttle body, VW Beetle, wiring harness, O2 sensor,

Question?

My name is Lilian. I bought a 2001 Volkswagen Beetle a few months back. Now it loses power whenever that EPC light and check engine light switches on. Lately it happens more  often, so I switch it off and after a while start it again and it drives ok for only a few miles. I just cant go on like this, its upsetting to the point that I can cry. The VW Beetle club members say its the throttle body, so my friend replaced it for me.  It was really expensive from the agents so a got a used one from the junk yard. It fixed the problem, or rather so I thought because after about 200 miles the problem is starting again. Now I feel helpless. Pleeeez help me. Pleez Pleeez Pleez!

Answer!

Hi Lil sorry to hear about your troubles. As much as I would like to help you, you gave me way too little information to steer you in the right direction. A diagnostic scan of the VW would have really been helpful but since you don't have one, fixing it is going to mere guess work. EPC faults, can be solved by a process of elimination and since you replaced the throttle body and it lasted for 200 miles, without a problem, it is very likely that it was the throttle body that was faulty but the question is, did your friend do the adaptation so that the ECU can properly interface and control it? Sounds like this is your problem. You need to take it to a diagnostics equipt workshop to have the throttle body adaptation reset. I'm almost certain that would solve your problem.

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Question?

Me Zoe, I got Vw beetle, make power loss and make  EPC dashboard light on. I read  VW forum say was cause by brake light switch. I take my mechanic, he  say no fix, take  VW agents they recall VW Beetles with brake light switch problem. Me very lucky, VW agent replace it free but EPC problem no fix and now more worse. Happen every day. You me help. I you kiss.

 Answer!

Hello Zoe thank you, I am flattered that you want to kiss me. I have to tell you though, that the brake light switch has little to do with the EPC problem you are experiencing. The brake light normally has an influence on speedo-cruise and has nothing to do with EPC faults which are rather confined to the non-emission related components involved with fuel delivery and torque delivery. The variables are just too many to even guess what it could be. It could be one of many things that could be causing your problem. Even something as minor as a bit of dirt restraining your throttle control butterfly could cause a EPC problem.  Right now you problem could be anything from the crankshaft position sensor to the accelerator pedal position sensor. From your throttle body to the electrical connections, from your high pressure fuel pump to the ECU. I would suggest you have a  scan done then send it to me, perhaps we can try once again to define your EPC problem. I hope you understand my explanation. Cheers Zoe.

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Question?

Hola mi amigo, tengo un problema en el polo de mi mujer, y es que se queda al arrancarlo por la mañana del garaje o cuando esta una tarde entera como hoy en la calle que ya hace freskito, como si no subiese de revoluciones,como muy flojo, si le aceleras lo calas, o aveces hace pequeñas detonaciones por el escape, esto le dura unos 20 segundos y ya se espavila. Es un polo 1.4i 80cv, tiene 20milkm, y no ha tenido otro fallo. Posibilidades? 1º Yo creo que puede ser sensor de temperatura de inyeccion, aunque me funcione bien la abuja que mide la temperatura del agua?. 2º bobina? No se que mas podria ser, en dias normales, o si lo arrancas despues de 3 horas o 10 minutos ya va perfecto. Le meti el VAGCOM y no me dio ningun tipo de error. Espero vuestras respuestas

Answer!

Hola a ti. Primero quiero  decir, hablo espanol un poquito pero voy a probar ayudar. Sin error del VAGCOM es mas dificil decir. Apuesto a que es problema de encendido pero dudo es la bobina si le dura de problema porque es solo 20 segundos.  Posiblemente son los bujias o la RON de gasolina no es correcto o tienes agua en la gasolina. Pequeñas detonaciones por el escape no es normal especialmente baja 20milkm. ¿qué pasa con su recien garantía?

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Question?

Hello there, I hope you can shed some light on my problem, I'm having a mini crises with my Seat 1.8L Toledo. The EPC light came on yesterday, but when I turned the engine off and restarted, the EPC light went off and everything was fine until this morning. On my way to work  the car had a jerky/shudder and at that very moment the TC and EPC light came on and I lost power so that it would only rev to  2500 rpm. As a result I limped home them  I plugged in my VAGCOM. Very surprisingly there were no faults. So I decided to take the Toledo back on the road but when I turned on the ignition, the EPC/EM/TC lights came on. So once again I plugged  in my VAGCOM and the DTCs listed below was present. So I cleaned the Throttle Body and  checked the Throttle Body on group 060 and the adaptation field was showing 'ERROR'. What do I do now because I'm totally stuffed and need  a quick fix. Any light you can shed on this problem would be much appreciated.

VAGCOM: Chassis Type: 1M - Seat Leon/Toledo

Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 19 22 35 36 37 46 56

VIN: VSSZZZ1MZ3R1XXXXX Mileage: 164400km-102153miles

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Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AJQ.lbl

Part No: 06A 906 032 MJ

Component: 1.8L R4/5VT 01 0003 

Coding: 11510

Shop #: WSC 80179 

VSSZZZ1MZ3R1XXXXX SEZ7Z0C2XXXXX

4 Faults Found:

17967 - Throttle Body (J338): Fault in basic settings 

P1559 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17987 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Adaptation Not Started 

P1579 - 35-00 - - 

17579 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Implausible Signal 

P1171 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17951 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Small 

P1543 - 35-00 - - 

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Answer!

Hi Wayne, I'm glad to see that you uploaded your scan. Since the rest of your electronic modules have "No fault code found" beneath them, it essentially means that they are all OK. And seeing that you own a VAGCOM, I take it for granted that you may have had prior DTC which you erased. Erasing DTCs are OK but bear in mind that you also erase all values learnt by the ECU associated with your driving style including adaptation values.  The throttle body therefore needs to be re-adapted every time codes are cleared or control module  or battery power is disconnected. As the automatic adaptation software procedure runs, the control module learns the full range of throttle positions. So from what I can see above, the Idle Speed Control Throttle Position cannot be determined which could mean adaption needs to be done, or that the potentiometers in the throttle body may be near end of life. Overtime the slider wears through the carbon track so it makes intermittent contact and stymies the ECU. But before we condemn the throttle body, I need you to disconnect your battery at the earth terminal so that you can hard reset all the electronic modules. Make certain that the ignition is off  then reconnect the battery. Redo a scan and if all goes well, you will once again see your original 4 faults and 1  additional fault that looks something like "Supply Voltage Terminal 30: Signal Outside Specifications - attery/Generator supply faulty". This is absolutely normal because the ECU detected that the battery was disconnected. Plug in VAGCOM switch on the ignition but do not start the engine. Select VAGCOM 04-Basic Settings - which displays the Measuring Value Block screen. Select Measuring Value Block 060 (or 98) which displays the Basic Setting Value Block screen.  Channel 4 will display the word“Running” and other channels will display  the state of the throttle valve angle sensors but will change as the throttle is actuated by the ECM.  Please do not touch the throttle pedal nor turn  ignition key off during the adaptation because the throttle body adaptation relearn process is essential and may prevent the engine from starting if interrupted. If the adaptation was successful, Channel 4 will have changed from “Running” to “OK”. Display 3 would read "idle" and 1 & 2 display voltages levels, normally less than 5 Volts.  Logout, turn the ignition key off and wait about 1 minute seconds, to ensure that adaptation settings are saved then start the car. If however, it still shows "error" inspect the throttle body actuator connector contacts for damage or corrosion and make certain its contacts are secure then try to set adaptation again. If it still shows "error" clean the throttle body and check for wiring harness between the throttle body and the control module. Retry adaptation once again. As a last resort replace the throttle body because the potentiometers cannot be replaced as a separate item nor is it available for sale as a separate item. I hope this helps.

TORQUE RELATED EPC ISSUES

FUEL PRESSURE EPC PROBLEMS

EPC problems are a pain in the butt, they just complicate your life, make you late for appointments, leave you stranded on highways when you least expect it.  Makes you curse and cuss and make you want to fit a accelerator cable but these issues as not limited to VAG cars, as can be seen in the pics. At times EPC faults even endanger your life when they occur on the freeways, especially in fast flowing traffic when limp mode doesn't even enable you to get your vehicle off the road and out of harms way quick enough as not to be the cause of an accident. EPC fault are so darn frustrating. EPC faults are so  time consuming and EPC faults are so expensive to repair, hence many a VW, Audi, Skoda and Seat driver attempts to self diagnosis and repair their own vehicles. I have found that EPC faults can be really crappy to diagnose because the ECU's  firmware and switching hardware is in control and operates at high speed and therefor cannot be measured, unless you have a multi-channel digital storage oscilloscope. Since there are not ECU timing charts available to accurately pinpoint the causes of ECU problems, we hear many stories, in which the VW, Audi, Skoda and Seat agents are stymied by the EPC light, loss of acceleration and limp mode home. Several Audi, VW, Seat and Skoda driver can relate such stories. Stories  of taking their vehicles to the relevant sevice agent only to be told that they found nothing wrong, with the car, they then clear the DTCs saying it was just a sporadic / isolated event or often times they suspect and change some expensive components,  exorbitantly  bill for it, yet never solve the problem because within two or three days the EPC problem strikes again. This peculiarity of the EPC problem tends to go away the following day and the car drives as if there was never any problem. It is so intermittent that the vehicle just borders on becoming unreliable. That really sucks.

What I have found,  is that when an EPC related problem occurs, a DTC is flagged and stored in memory for later retrieval, meanwhile the EPC light is triggered and stays on, with the result that the engine only revs to 1200 RPM. Since the light is already on, even if a second or third EPC problem occurs, there is no way to tell because additional EPC problems won't make the yellow /amber EPC light glow any brighter. However if the DTC of the first EPC fault is different from the second of third, additional DTCs will be observed when the memory is retrieved. Should an EPC fault occur and trigger the EPC light, and a second is not undetected over a successive distance of approximately 1000 km, it is automatically erased from the memory and the EPC light will go off. EPC light problems are predominantly found on electronic Drive by Wire systems because they are torque driven. Whenever a problem occurs in the electronic Drive by Wire circuit, the EPC circuit / system acts as a safety measure to prevent injury to the occupants and the car itself by going into limp mode.

It is quite common for the PWM Signal from the ECU to the fuel pump control module to fail, resulting in the EPC light switching on and the vehicle going into limp mode. It is quite easy to verify whether or not the ECU was at fault because by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it  after a few minutes, it resets the ECU's clock since it doesn't have backup power.  Removing the battery does not delete DTC memory nor the learnt ECU adaptation values so its quit safe to do. It however triggers a  manufacturer specific 18010 DTC - Power Supply Terminal 30 missing, or a generic P1602 DTC -Voltage too Low, Intermittent  which will be sen the next tie you connect to a scan tool.

Normally whenever the ECU detects a fault, like a missing pulse or an intermittent connection it calculates a substitute value from other available signals and makes an emergency running mode available to keep the vehicle driving.  I have noticed what's different between the electronic Drive by Wire systems and the rest of the on-board systems is that the ECU does not provide a substitute signal for torque related  / electronic drive by wire faults. So if either  G79 or G185 or both fails,  it results in no throttle response but the ECU does not generate a substitute signal, it rather just goes into emergency mode and switches on the EPC light. Like wise if G187 or G188 or both fails also, resulting in no throttle response the ECU again does not generate a substitute signal but rather goes into emergency mode and switches on the EPC light. When N30, N31, N32 or N33 fails or any of the the Ignition Coils fails, the  EPC light as well as the Mil light switches on but since the engine runs rough, its easy to isolate and remedy. When the wastegate bypass regulator valve or the fuel pressure regulator valve  fails, frustrating limp mode and the EPC light once again spoils your day.

AUDI EPC LIGHT PROBLEMS

AUDI EPC LIGHT

It is common knowledge that EPC light problems have been haunting Audi drivers incessantly for the past few years, announcing itself on Audi A1,  Audi A2, Audi A3,  Audi A4,  Audi A5, Audi A6,  Audi A7,  Audi A8,  Audi Q3,  Audi Q5, Audi Q7, the Audi RS4,  Audi RS6, Audi RS8, Audi R8, Audi S4, Audi S6, Audi S8 and Audi  TTs even before they're run-in. Several Audi owners are dismayed that EPC problems present themselves on virtually new cars. 

In fact, EPC problems pop-up at any time, on any Audi new or old fitted with X-by-Wire technology. Any Audi  without a throttle cable, is naturally fitted with a full Drive-by-Wire system which is supervised by the Electronic Control Circuit (EPC)  / Electronic Throttle Control (ETC)  that turns on the dashboard mounted EPC (K132) indicator light when it detects a malfunction, then registers Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)  in the ECM memory.  Even though the EPC light turns on exclusively for  non-emission related faults, it does however turn on along with the MIL for emission related faults. 

The EPC  / ETC is a torque monitoring circuit and monitors for torque discrepancies and torque inefficiencies and when it detects one, sends the vehicle into emergency running mode (limp mode). These are prevalent when towing, when driving up an incline, when in manual mode, when in cruise control, after spirited driving, etc, and may even cause the ABS, ESP   lights to came on. Some drivers, assume  that it's happening more frequently over time and others are concerned that the EPC trouble are going to get worse because of its  randomness. But this is not the case. 

Bear in mind that once the EPC light is on, no other EPC related fault is going to make it glow any brighter. Once it's on, it's stays on even if the battery is disconnected, and it will come back on when you reconnect. However, the ECU will monitor the EPC circuit and if the same error does not occur in three successive trips of at least 7 kilometers, it will erase the DTC and it would seem as if it never happened, until the next time.  These are safely features specific to Drive by Wire systems and their workings can be viewed in the adaptation groups when retrieving errors with a scan tool.

ADAPTATION GROUPS PERTAINING TO EPC

Group 60 -- Throttle Valve Adjuster / Adaptation Epc-system

Group 61 -- Epc-system / Throttle Valve Adjuster (System 1) 

Group 62 -- Epc-system / Throttle Valve Adjuster (System 2)

Group 63 -- Kickdown Function

Group 66 -- Cruise Control Status

AUDI EPC LIGHT RELATED DTC

18039 / P1631 - Accelerator Position Sensor (G79): Signal too High 

18041 / P1633 - Accelerator Position Sensor 2 (G185) Signal too Low

18042 / P1634 - Accelerator Position Sensor 2 (G185): Signal too High

18047 / P1639 - Accelerator Position Sensor 1/2 (G79/G185): Implausible Signal 

 00777 - Accelerator Position Sensor (G79): Implausible Signal

No response from the throttle even with your foot flat on the accelerator pedal.. There are two potentiometers fitted to the accelerator pedal which are monitored by the ECU and when it it detects an intermittent signal from one pot, it turns on the EPC light then uses the second pot for acceleration but it is limited. When both pots detected as are intermittent, EPC light goes on and engine only runs at idle speed. When this error occurs, turn the engine off, stomp on the accelerator a few times through its full travel.  It could just be specks of dust that settled on the one of the potentiometer (variable resistors) tracks that stymied the ECU for a few millisecond or so. I this happens often and thereafter, presenting a 18047 / P1639 or 18039 / P1631 or 18042 / P1634 or 18041 / P1633 then consider replacing the accelerator pedal.

No response from the throttle even with your foot flat on the accelerator pedal. There are also two redundant potentiometers in the throttle body that determines the throttle valve angle and it has three modes of failure. One for when the valve angle sensor fails, one for when throttle valve actuator (motor) malfunctions and one for when throttle valve position is cannot be recognized by the ECU. When this happens  the ECU shuts off the voltage supply to the actuator, causing the throttle valve to defaults to mechanical stop position and the engine speed is limited to 1200 RPM. If any of the DTC fault below show up in your scan, check the 6 pin plug interfacing with the throttle body. It would be best to redo adaptation thereafter before thinking of replacing the throttle body. 

000289 / P0121- Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Implausible Signal - Intermittent

16506 / P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too Low - Intermittent

17987 / P1579 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Adaptation Not Started - Intermittent

17976 / P1568 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Mechanical Failure 

17972 / P1564 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Under-Voltage during Basic Setting 

17952 / P1544 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large - Intermittent

16606 / P0222 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle (G188): Signal Too Low - Intermittent

000547 / P0223 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle (G188):Signal Too High - Intermittent

17581 / P1173 -  Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too High 

18042 / P1634 - Accelerator Position Sensor 2 (G185): Signal too High 

You have difficulty starting but eventually does start but idles very rough, bucks and surges when you attempt to drive it. The   EPC, MIL (Check engine light)  and ESP lights come on. This is most likely caused by the Injectors  N30-N33 or the Ignition Coils N (1st cylinder), N128 (2nd cylinder), N158 (3rd cylinder) and N163 (4th cylinder) since both the Injectors and Ignition coils causes exactly the same symptoms. It also   exhibit the following DTCs.

17633 / P1225 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30): Short to Ground  - - Intermittent

17634 / P1226 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31): Short to Ground  - - Intermittent

17635 / P1227 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32): Short to Ground  - - Intermittent

17636 / P1228 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33): Short to Ground  - - Intermittent

MORE EPC PROBLEMS

J757 Engine Component Power Supply Relay cause loss of  high-pressure and turns on EPC. ESP and MIL lights.

N75 Solenoid valve for charge pressure limitation and turns on the  EPC and MIL lights but shown no symptoms of failure except go into limp mode. 

Audi A1, Audi A2, Audi A3, Audi A4, Audi A5, Audi A6, Audi A7, Audi A8, Audi Q3, Audi Q5, Audi Q7, the Audi RS4, Audi RS6, Audi RS8, Audi R8, Audi S4, Audi S6, Audi S8 and Audi  TTs EPC Problems.

KNOCK SENSOR

VAG KNOCK SENSOR K1 AND THE EPC LIGHT

VW, Seat, Skoda  and Audi Knock sensors have become quite notorious for sending the car into "limp mode". Limp mode is a safety feature on all Drive by Wire vehicles, implying an EPC-electronic power control-but no accelerator cable. EPC implies torque control. By analogy,  its something like a horse that gets spooked and takes off at high speed and out of control with its rider unable to rein him in,  or a frayed accelerator cable that becomes stuck while driving at high speed. That's just a recipe for disaster. Imagine stepping on the brake pedal but the high revs of the engine just forces the car forward, smoke pouring from the brake pads to the point that the become glazed and  no longer has any effect. Pushing the transmission into neutral isn't an option because without the load, the engine is destined to blow, perhaps even push a piston  through the side of the engine lock.  Drive by wire prevents this from happening and cuts power to the powertrain if it detects a fault that puts the engine at risk. Knock reacts somewhat similar to backfire since both are due to detonation and pre-ignition-incomplete combustion.

Detonation is a common problem associated with lean fuel mixture -non stichometric-and torque. The EPC light is often triggered on an incline when the torque is insufficient to pull the car uphill when in an inappropriate gear. Knock sensors can detect combustion knocks in individual cylinders. Knock sensor 1 (G61) senses cylinders 1 & 2, and knock sensor 2 (G66) senses cylinders  3 & 4. To prevent combustion knock, the ECU cylinder selective knock control overrides the electronic control of the ignition timing by retarding the timing, but may not be unable to if the Fuel Octane is too low causing secondary combustion in the cylinder. Knock sensor 1 (G61) is known to trigger EPC light and activate limp mode, hence it needs to be checked for flush engine contact and correct torque. DTC  P0171 and P0174 could show up in scans.

The ECU calculates engine ignition timing based on input signals from Throttle Position (TP) Sensor G79 and  Accelerator Pedal Position G185, the  Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor G28,  the load signal from Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor G70, the signal from the Throttle Valve Control Module J338,  the Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor G62, both Knock Sensors G61, G66 (additional G198 & G199 on V6, W8 & W12 engines) and signals from Camshaft Position Sensors G40, G163, (additionally G300, G301 on V6, W8 & W12 engines) When the engine is below 40 degrees  celsius knock sensors signals are not used to make timing decisions. What this implies is that when the EPC light turns on  when the engine is still cold, the knock sensors are not guilty , neither  the the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor G70 nor the Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor G62 since whilst idling, have nothing to do with torque. That leaves the Accelerator Pedal with G79 & G185, the Throttle  Control body senders G187 & G188,  the  Engine Speed Sensor G28,  Camshaft Position Sensors G40 & G163 as the EPC limp mode culprits. However sensors are fairly reliable but the wiring  harnesses  are  more likely to be the cause of the problem, see wiring in Audi.

Fuel pressure regulator valve N276, the wastegate bypass regulator valve N75 and the  Ignition Coil N, N128, N158, N163 and its Power Output Stage N122 are three  more EPC culprits. Injectors N30-N33 can also cause the EPC light to turn on and cause car to go into "limp mode" but also causes the engine not to run smoothly. Once again before condemning the sensors or actuators, check the wiring harnesses to them.



EPC light
Epc light?
EPC light on
EPC light problem
EPC warning light?
EPC and ESP Problems
EPC and ABS warning lights on
EPC warning light, advice welcome
EPC Light and stalling
EPC what does this mean?
Epc Light that keeps coming on
EPC light and starting issues
EPC light come on frequently
EPC light pain in my butt
Epc Light On Power Loss
EPC warning light - car shakes violently - ideas?
EPC light & locked in Park. 2006 A6, need solution.
EPC light / Check Engine light - Audi not finding issue
EPC light came on and can't start the engine
EPC light coming on and difficulty starting
EPC warning light and stalling in traffic
EPC warning light is on the dash and another lamp
EPC light came on and there was lots of shudder
EPC light has just come on and doesn't go away
The EPC light came on and I had sluggish power
The EPC warning symbol came on today while driving.
The EPC warning light has been triggering fairly regularly
The warning light EPC does not go out or comes on or flashes
Occasionally the EPC light comes on
EPC Light comes on at 4000 rpm - clears on restart
EPC warning light?? 15 Nov 2011
EPC Light comes on at 4000 rpm - clears on restart 3 Mar 2011
My EPC and CEL (Check Engine Lamp) is on
My EPC light is now light on the dash
My EPC light goes on/off on a daily basis
My check engine light and EPC light is on
My Audi's epc light came on this morning
My epc light and check engine light came on
My EPC light came on then I tried to start the car but nothing happened
What is the EPC warning light?
what's the mean of epc light, when it's come on ?
When I start the car the EPC light on the dashboard stay on
when epc light's come on, car loosing power
What is epc warning light mean on a seat ibiza
Check Engine Light & EPC Light came on
When you try and accelerate the EPC light comes on and the throttle cuts out
Why does the epc light keep coming on in my audi a4
A4 with EPC light, stalling at dangerous times
Audi Q7 EPC engine management warning light
I have EPC warning light and acceleration problems
I'm having a problem with the EPC light on my 2003 Audi A4 2.0FSI
I keep getting the epc light come on
j'ai le voyant EPC qui reste allumé
Having EPC problems with a skoda fabia 1.4
Seat Leon 52 plate EPC light
Seat ibiza 1.2 EPC and Engine light on
Seat Ibiza EPC light on and acceleration problem?
Fabia EPC Light on
Seat arosa EPC light?
How do I reset a Seat Arosa EPC light?

The above EPC errors are common to Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda and Seat. The  VW, the 4motion, the Amarok, the new Beetle, the Bora, the Caddy, the Corrado, the CC, the Eos, the Fox, the Golf, the Jetta, the Kombi, the Lavida, the Lupo, the Passat, the Polo, the Phaeton, the Routan, the Santana the Scirocco, the Sharan, the Tiguan, the Touran, the Touareg, the Transporter, the Vento , the Up and lastly the Vivo. The Audi A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, A6, A7, A8, the Q3, Q5, Q7, the RS4, RS6, RS8, the R8, the S4, S6, S8, Audi TT. The  Seat Alhambra, the Altea, the Arosa, the Cordoba, the Ibiza, the Inca, the Leon, the Mii and the Toledo,  Skoda  Felicia, the Octavia, the Fabia, the Superb, the Roomster, the Yeti, the Rapid and the Citigo. The Audi RS-6, A4 Fsi, Audi A4, Audi S3, Audi TT, Audi R8, audi a4 2.8 quattro 5 speed, Skoda fabia, seat leon, seat ibiza, Avant RS 2, Coupé, Audi A3 Mk1, Volkswagen Golf Mk4, Volkswagen New Beetle, Volkswagen Bora/Jetta Mk4, SEAT León Mk1, SEAT Toledo Mk2, Škoda Octavia Mk1,  TFSI, FSI, GTI, TDI, 

LIMP MODE

LIMP MODE HOME / VW LIMP MODE

What is "limp mode", has been "The Question" of  2013-2014.  Limp mode is a design feature of all drive by wire systems. Vag cars fitted with ME 7.0 or newer are all fitted with electronic drive-by-wire systems in place the fast aging and outmoded cable throttle system.  Bosch ME 7.5 ECU is a very complicated system, which is torque based and makes decision based on input and feedback from all sensors needed to perform the stoichiometric calculations for optimum engine performance and torque. Failure of any of these components triggers its built-in the safety feature "limp mode" and lights up the EPC warning light. Unlike cable systems that can fray and get  stuck at high revs or high speed which often result in accidents,  "limp mode" deactivated torque and limits the revs to 1500 rpm yet allows the car to limp home safely. Many are asking, how to fix "limp mode"? The following cases are all different yet had the same symptoms - limp mode turning on the EPC warning light. The first is a Jetta, the second a Polo, the third a Seat Ibiza and the fourth a Skoda Fabia. See also  VW Polo highline, vw volkswagen limp mode,   limp home mode and  Audi limp mode.

FIRST CASE / VW LIMP MODE

Lately I've been having some issues with my Jetta 2.0T. She just suddenly went into "limp mode" or "safe mode" and it happened thrice during this week, resulting in total loss of power. I'm at my tether end, I have no idea what to do or how to rectify the situation. The first two times she went into "limp mode" the EPC warning light did not come on, however on the third occasion it came on and now stays on and  hasn't gone off since.  Initially I thought it was because the pump jockey threw-in LRP instead of unleaded fuel  but I have since rectified the situation and its not that.  I've run Vag-com diagnostics twice, which revealed the following data. I need help to repair this problem else I would have to take it to the service agents. Just the thought of a huge repair bill kept me from going there in the first place.

(First scan)
Control Module Part Number: 1K0 907 115 B
Component Version: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 00 0010
1 Fault Found:
000818 - Knock Sensor 2 (G66): Signal too Low
P0332 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 18745 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.12
Time: 14:41:21

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2555 /min
Load: 86.1 %
Speed: 52.0 km/h
Temperature: 77.0°C
Temperature: 39.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1001.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.323 V
Readiness: 0000 0000

(second scan)
Address 01: Engine
Part No SW: 1K0 907 115 B HW: 1K0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 00 0010

1 Fault Found:
000818 - Knock Sensor 2 (G66): Signal too Low
P0332 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 18992 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.01.15
Time: 12:05:11

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2444 /min
Load: 57.1 %
Speed: 61.0 km/h
Temperature: 89.0°C
Temperature: 45.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 989.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.066 V
Readiness: 0000 0000

EXPLANATION
Our fellow VW owner is concerned with the different results of his two scans. So first and foremost let me assure him that there is nothing to worry about because the Readiness passes with flying colour. Readiness is the operational status of  the 8 emission functions, viz  the (1st nought) Exhaust Gas Recirculation - EGR, (2nd nought) Oxygen Sensor Heater, (3rd nought) Oxygen Sensor, (4th nought) Air Conditioning, (5th nought) Secondary Air Injection System, (6th nought) Evaporative Emissions System, (7th nought) Catalyst Heating and  (8th nought) Three Way Catalyst.  However, not all vehicles are fitted with all 8 system. If the system is absent, the report default to a 0 but  a 1 signifies a fault in the respective system. The RPM, load, Speed and Temperature above, are all relative to how long the engine has been running, the gradient of the road etc. The Absolute Pres of 989.0 mbar is lower in scan two  than the Absolute Pres. of 1001.0 mbar of scan one  because the battery is lower. The optimum battery voltage is 14.4V. Anyway, to get back to the "limp mode" issue at hand.  I am almost certain the cause of "limp mode" in this case is the Knock Sensor 2 (G66) because of Signal too Low - lower than expected by the ECU.  The mere fact that the ECU reports a low signal implies that the wiring from the knock sensor to the ECU is intact and that the actual fault could be the knock sensor or the ECU itself . It is highly unlikely that the ECU is at fault because they are fairly robust, which leaves us with the knock sensor. Knock Sensors are torqued to the engine block for flush contact so that it would pick up the maximum amount of vibration. Should the bolt securing the Knock Sensor come loose, the knock sensor would send a lower signal than expected. See previous blog  Knock Sensor issue. Since the ECU cannot protect the engine in the absence of knock sensor 2 it decided to enter into "limp mode" to safeguard the engine from possible damage it a knock developed or vibrations exceeded the prescribed limit.

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SECOND CASE  / VW LIMP MODE

I have a 9N - VW Polo and my car's EPC warning light comes on when I rapidly accelerate when driving at slow speeds or when accelerating rapidly while driving a steady speed. When the EPC warning light comes on, the car goes into "limp mode" at that very moment then he check engine light comes on.  I’ve scanned the ECU with VAG-COM  and after spending hours under the bonnet looking for a possible cause, I still haven't found  anything and need help or any suggestions so I can fix this problem.

Address 01: Engine
Part No: 036 906 034 FJ
Component: MARELLI 4MV 4830
3 Faults Found:

17961 - Barometric / Manifold Pressure Signals
P1553 - 35-10 - Implausible Correlation - Intermittent

17912 - Intake Air System
P1504 - 35-10 - Leak Detected - Intermittent

17550 - Load Calculation Cross Check
P1142 - 35-10 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

Readiness: 0000 0101

EXPLANATION

The fact that the Readiness failed (see explanation above) more than explains why you are having car trouble. Since the 6th nought is a 1, it says that your  Evaporative Emissions System (EVAP) is faulty. The 8th nought is also a 1, which says that your Three Way Catalyst is at faulty. However, in your case it appears that hardware upstream of the catalytic converter is causing  the readiness to fail. The problems are associated with  Leaks Detected in the Mass Air Flow (MAF) / Intake Air System / Barometric / EVAP system . Since the incorrect amount of air needed  for stoichiometric calculations is inadequate, the fuel is not completely burnup and as a result the catalytic converter detects unburnt fuel and flags an error. The units themselves may not be faulty but rather the wiring and connectors of these units or cracks or cuts in the rubber hoses.  Repairing these should take  priority  because OBD-II is designed to shut the car down if it fails readiness and there therefore the minimum emission standards. Since the fuel is under pressure and the rubber hoses could be leaking fuel, safe mode (limp mode) is initialised.

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THIRD CASE  / VW LIMP MODE

What is limp mode? My 6L-Seat Ibiza can idle but not rev, I think it has gone into limp mode, please help before I set this cas alight. Please explain what is limp mode? And how to fix limp mode. Here is the VAG-COM scan of modules with faults,

Address 01 ----------------------------------------------
Controller: 038 906 019 NF
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 0000SG 5839

2 Faults Found:
18043 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from A/C Controller
P1635 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

18045 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from Electronic Load Controller
P1637 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Readiness: N/A

Address 03 ----------------------------------------------
Controller: 6Q0 907 379 S
Component: MABS 8.0 front H03 0001
Coding: 0000008
Shop #: WSC 06441
Note: Excessive Comm Errors

Address 08 ----------------------------------------------
Controller:
Note: Excessive Comm Errors

EXPLANATION
For an explanation of what limp mode is, read the above. The two engine faults signify there could be a problem with the Data bus Wiring since neither the Electronic Load Controller nor the A/C Controller can send and receive messages. Coupled to the fact that Address 3 - ABS braking system  and Address 8 -Auto HVAC both have Excessive Comm Errors, further verifies trouble with the  Data bus. However it is more likely Fuses and /or Connector(s) from / to Central Electronics Control and the Gateway controller. The fact that the ECU cannot coordinate torque and braking it was best to shut the systems down and enter into safe mode (limp mode) since malfunction of these important systems may lead to an accident and for the very least make for a poor driving experience.

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FOURTH CASE  / VW LIMP MODE

I have a Skoda Fabia and I think there is problems with the butterfly of my throttle body or perhaps it is dirty because the car goes into "limp mode" continually.  I have given up on kickdown because  it is getting dangerous because whenever I want to overtake, my car goes into limp mode.   I would appreciate your commentary and your recommendations because  "limp mode" frustrates me and I curse all the time. Do you think the sensors are causing all my problems? Here is my Vag-com scan.

Address 01: ----------------------------------------------
Engine
Part No: 036 906 034 BL
Component:  MARELLI 4LV       3699
Coding: 00071
 
No fault code found.
Readiness: 1110 0101

Address 08: ----------------------------------------------
Auto HVAC      
Part No: 6Y0 820 045
Component: Klimaanlage        X0760

1 Fault Found:
00818 - Sensor for Evaporator Outlet Temperature (G263)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus

Address 09: ----------------------------------------------

Cent. Elect.  
Part No: 6Q1 937 049
Component: BORDNETZ-SG.1S30

3 Faults Found:
00906 - Horn (H1)
28-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent

00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
49-00 - No Communications

01324 - Control Module for All Wheel Drive (J492)
49-00 - No Communications

Address 15: ----------------------------------------------
Airbags    
Part No: 1C0 909 601 C
Component: 02 AIRBAG VW51 01
 
1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

Address 19: ----------------------------------------------
CAN Gateway
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN 1S30
 
2 Faults Found:
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
49-00 - No Communications

01324 - Control Module for All Wheel Drive (J492)
49-00 - No Communications

Address 44: ----------------------------------------------
Steering Assist  
Control Module Part Number: 6Q0 423 156 AB
Component and/or Version: LenkhilfeTRW        V270
Software Coding: 10140
1 Fault Found:

00816 - Power Steering Sensor (G250)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

EXPLANATION
This Skoda Fabia seems to have enough problems for half a dozen cars. Once again we need to look at Readiness first because it is quite evident that there more 1's than 0's. That tells us there are problems  in the (1st nought) Exhaust Gas Recirculation - EGR, (2nd nought) Oxygen Sensor Heater, (3rd nought) Oxygen Sensor,   (6th nought) Evaporative Emissions System  and  (8th nought) Three Way Catalyst. This is reason enough for the car to go into limp mode. But since it also has issues with its  Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
and the Control Module for All Wheel Drive (J492) there is even more reason to shut the important systemes down and do into safe mode (limp mode). There are also several electrical issues with open circuits and short circuits which would most likely be wiring harness related. But the most striking thing is the  Low - Intermittent  Supply Voltage B+ which implies the battery terminal is loose. Intermittent supply voltage  resets all modules all the time and can lead to spurious DTC.